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What is best way to extend range of a wifi that 100 meters far from my house?

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#1
Hello lads, the wifi im trying to connect is 100ish meters far from my building and im trying to find the best way to connect it from every point of my house. i know only this ways currently, 100m cat6 cable or using a modem as acces point, i have heard some outdoor wifi extenders but i dont exactly know what to look for. any help will be appreciated.
 
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#2
First you need direct line of sight between buildings. Any trees or walls etc ruin your efforts. Next directional antennas and wifi equipment capable of running bridge configuration. I recommend you take a look at mikrotik hardware, in most cases they have enough power to work at such distance without directional antennas, otherwise you need to setup it above any obstructions looking to each other in very small angle around 5-12 degrees.
 
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#3
Ubiquiti extender?

there are also Directional transmitters that Focus in a particular direction for long distances.
 
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#4
Hello lads, the wifi im trying to connect is 100ish meters far from my building and im trying to find the best way to connect it from every point of my house. i know only this ways currently, 100m cat6 cable or using a modem as acces point, i have heard some outdoor wifi extenders but i dont exactly know what to look for. any help will be appreciated.
Look up used 2.4GHz parabolic antennas. Those are used for direct line of sight point-to-point connections. We were using those for temporary links in rural areas (villages, remote industrial buildings, summer houses etc.). Basically anywhere where it takes some time to lay a fiberoptic line and people need internet now. The maximum range is ~100km, but we've never used it at more than 20km due to signal loss.

There are even cheaper alternatives, like this TP-Link long range antenna:
http://www.tp-link.com/il/products/details/cat-5691_TL-ANT2424B.html

The range is ~56km, so effectively you can transmit in 1-2km range without losses. Usually these cost in a ballpark of $50-60. Remember, this is just an antenna, so it has to be connected to a WiFi AP or router via coax and preferably have an amp along the way.

EDIT: if you are on a tight budget, you can make your own antenna. For 100m range your options are limitless, from ghetto-cantenna, to cooking pot parabolic or DIY Yagi.
 
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#5

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#6
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#7
how about this one http://www.hepsiburada.com/airlive-...h-2-4-ghz-anten-sma-konnektor-p-HBV000001988T ?i have no idea what it is or how to work it out couldn`t find a vid about it but it looks cheap enough and your suggestions are nice too but most of them are good from 1-5 kilometers and all i need is 100ish meters so i dont want buy something overkill, and about making one myself, i will try in case if i cant find something cheap and good enough.
 
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#8
What I've found effective is a couple things, but the cheapest option that worked for me was to have a main router on my first floor ,with a direct line to the streets coaxial cable, (meaning minimal connections from source to modem/router).

Then I would get an old wireless n or g router and set it up as an access point, but I would always put it on the second floor or higher up. I found that when I would wait for my kids at the bus stop my iPhone would always reach for their router (the higher ap).

I don't know if it has to do with obstructions at ground level ,or what, but every time I've done it the access point router is significantly cheaper and has a way weeker signal( but still it's transmission is the only one available at these further distances), so my deduction is that it being higher off the ground allowed for easier distance transmission to devices attempting to connect from further away. However the end of my driveway is only about 80 yards from my house ,so my option may not be feasible
 
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#9
how about this one http://www.hepsiburada.com/airlive-...h-2-4-ghz-anten-sma-konnektor-p-HBV000001988T ? couldn`t find a vid about it but it looks cheap enough and your suggestions are nice too but most of them are good from 1-5 kilometers and all i need is 100ish meters so i dont want buy something overkill, and about making one myself, i will try in case if i cant find something cheap and good enough.
Found the spec sheet on manufacturers website:
http://fs.airlive.com/manual/AirLive_WAE-140PAv2_SpecSheet.pdf

Couldn't find the max range for this antenna, but with max 10W input I can assume that it's more than enough for 100m point-to-point. If you add a cheap 2.4GHz amplifier - you are good to go.
 
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#10
Found the spec sheet on manufacturers website:
http://fs.airlive.com/manual/AirLive_WAE-140PAv2_SpecSheet.pdf

Couldn't find the max range for this antenna, but with max 10W input I can assume that it's more than enough for 100m point-to-point. If you add a cheap 2.4GHz amplifier - you are good to go.
thanks mate, i thought that i could install it directly to the modem which is this one http://www.tp-link.com.tr/products/details/cat-15_TD-W8960N.html yet you are mentioning an amplifier and sadly i have no knowledge what am i goint to do with an amplifier, is it going to be between modem and antenna?
 
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#11
Directional antennas. Or, you can do it yourself by placing dish shaped metallic plates behind each antenna and direct it in direction you want the signal to be extended. The later is more of a DIY thing that may or may not work...
 

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#12
Aware this is an old thread but did not want to start a new one since I am having the same question and wondered if my solution will work:
We live remote on a small island north of the arctic circle. Mobile internet via a 12V router with sim and rj45 port
We want to extend to 110meters with an ethernet cable rj45 from the house to the atelier
I plan to have a second router (the same as router 1) at 70m. From here another 40m rj45 cable to the atelier.
Will the second router be able to 'boost' the signal again to original strength and so send it to the atelier with minimal loss?
Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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#13
Theoretically yes. Just make sure to turn DHCP off in the secondary router and plug the cable from the primary router into it via one of the switch ports (not WAN port).
 

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#14
Thank you for your answer and further tips.
So with this solution I can extend my internet connection beyond 100m (which I thought was the absolute limit for rj45 ethernet cables).
It sounds too simple to be true because I haven't read about anyone else trying this.
In the house we have 10-15Mbps. Do you have an idea what is reasonable to expect in the atelier?
 

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#15
as long as the cable is in good condition and there aren't too many splices in between, it should be able to maintain its maximum speed of the network. For example, if your routers are 10/100 and the cable is CAT5e, it should be able to handle up to 100 Mb/s. If your routers are 10/100/1000 and the cable is CAT6, it should be able to handle up to 1000 Mb/s.

The 100m guideline spec includes four splices, if memory serves (e.g. wall jacks, patch panels, etc.). Whenever the packet is read, interpreted, and resent (a switch or router does this), that device resets your 100m counter. Ehm, 100m is the maximum distance between devices.
 

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#16
I don't know if my routers are 10/100 but I assume they will be because they are quite new (up to date and still sold by our provider). The cable will be CAT5e and 25m long (3x) so there will be 2 splices between router 1 and 2 and only one between router 2 and the atelier (2x20m cable).
We would be very pleased with 5Mb/s and this sounds very possible now.
 

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#17
The cable will be CAT5e and 25m long (3x) so there will be 2 splices between router 1 and 2 and only one between router 2 and the atelier (2x20m cable).
I wouldn't recommend doing that. Either get longer continuous cables or buy cable and put ends on it yourself. If this cable is outdoors, you need cable that is rated for burial. You absolutely do not want any splices outdoors except whatever is going into an exterior antenna. The cable should always enter from below in those cases with a drip loop so water doesn't follow the cable anywhere it shouldn't be.

Example cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Wate...+burial+cable&qid=1553208011&s=gateway&sr=8-5

As far as I know, direct burial cables are always black jacketed. They don't like bending much either because that jacket is stiff.

These cables are only meant to go to -40C/-40F. If it gets colder than that in your neck of the woods and it will be exposed to it, you may have to bury it below freezing depth, sadly.


To be clear, every "splice" is when the signal leaves the current medium and transitions to a new medium. If you're planning on using female-female joiners to connect those 3 x 25m cables, each joiner is effectively two splices so you're talking six for the length of the cable. If those splices occur outside, not only could you run into signal degradation issues because of the joiners, but also water getting into the lines corroding the electrical contacts via the joiners. Do not recommend this approach at all.
 
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#18
Thanks again for the advice. I will have a look into how to put ends on continuous cables and the costs of the whole package. As usual I am on a budget...
I have some experience with our 200m cheap electricity power cable from our windgenerator with quite some splices. I managed a solution to keep them dry (with some maintaining/checking) but I have no experience whatsoever with ethernet cables and how critical it is to keep them dry...
 

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#19
Electrical is far less sensitive to moisture than data cables.

All you need is the cable which you can buy in 1000' or 500' rolls. Can see the link above for price reference. If you go with 500', you're looking at $100ish USD.

I assume you already have a good wire cutter so you don't need to buy another one of those.

You'll need an RJ45 crimper. I recommend one that ratchets to prevent over-squeezing on it. They run $20-40.

You'll need RJ45 crimp ends. They often come in bags of 100 for $10 or less. If you know someone that does a lot of installs (like your WISP), you might be able to bum some off of them.

You don't need boots but I recommend them. Bags of 50 can usually be had for less than $10. Again, might be able to bum these off of someone that does lots of installs.

You don't need a cable tester but I highly recommend getting one. They are the best way to test that you installed the ends correctly. I think this is the one I have which goes for $32:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Continuity-Assemblies-N044-000-R/dp/B000VM6TTI/

So you're looking at around $200 USD total for all of the cable stuff. You could potentially be saving money down the road by not having to buy more cables too...just make them from the left over cable.


Here's the wire color guide you'd be using:

To be clear, the pair on the left is orange, the pair on the right is brown.

There's videos on YouTube of how to prep the cable for crimping and then crimping it. I look at the tip of the connector before crimping to verify I see copper in every hole. CAT5 is very easy to crimp compared to CAT6.
 
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#20
I am running my 5G off an ASUS RT-N66U. With 5G I am about 325ft from the house and get 255Mbps typically. Standard di-pole antennas too. Non-directional. You must be trying to pass through a bunch of stuff? I'm gonna have to second GT's suggestion unless it is difficult to get things where you are?
 

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#21
Electrical is far less sensitive to moisture than data cables.

All you need is the cable which you can buy in 1000' or 500' rolls. Can see the link above for price reference. If you go with 500', you're looking at $100ish USD.

I assume you already have a good wire cutter so you don't need to buy another one of those.

You'll need an RJ45 crimper. I recommend one that ratchets to prevent over-squeezing on it. They run $20-40.

You'll need RJ45 crimp ends. They often come in bags of 100 for $10 or less. If you know someone that does a lot of installs (like your WISP), you might be able to bum some off of them.

You don't need boots but I recommend them. Bags of 50 can usually be had for less than $10. Again, might be able to bum these off of someone that does lots of installs.

You don't need a cable tester but I highly recommend getting one. They are the best way to test that you installed the ends correctly. I think this is the one I have which goes for $32:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Continuity-Assemblies-N044-000-R/dp/B000VM6TTI/

So you're looking at around $200 USD total for all of the cable stuff. You could potentially be saving money down the road by not having to buy more cables too...just make them from the left over cable.


Here's the wire color guide you'd be using:

To be clear, the pair on the left is orange, the pair on the right is brown.

There's videos on YouTube of how to prep the cable for crimping and then crimping it. I look at the tip of the connector before crimping to verify I see copper in every hole. CAT5 is very easy to crimp compared to CAT6.

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. It is very helpful to me since I know nothing when it comes to these kind of things.
I have found a 75m outdoor CAT5e cable (with connectors) for a reasonable price. I might use that from router 1 to router 2. From there I have free sight to the atelier 30m away.
I have a simple wifi repeater (usb powered with rj45 port) that I could place half way and may be lucky to reach the atelier. If not I'll have to invest in another 30m cable. Or some kind of antenna maybe?
As said we live quite remote: 20 minutes with our boat across open sea to the main land (Norway). Things take time out here but we have plenty of that. So if time is money then we are very rich. (But it doesn't pay for the cables...)
 

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#22
Can try that...I don't know how well that wifi repeater will work though. Can always set up a test with it before you commit to that approach.

Just keep water, gravity, and temperature in mind when running those cables.
 

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#23
No, I am not so sure about this repeater either but as you mentioned I'll run some tests first and do some more research and thinking before investing.
I plan to have the cable 'in daylight' or slightly buried because it is very rocky out here.
Temparature can vary from -15C to +25 over the year and (parts of) the cable will be covered with ice and snow. Taking that in consideration my solution might not be such a good idea after all. With gravity I presume you mean that those cables are damaged/breaking easily? I could protect them extra by running them through some cheap gardenhose/tube I have lying around.
 

FordGT90Concept

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#24
I meant water following the cable because of gravity.

Direct burial cables are quite durable and UV resistant. As long as it doesn't get too cold (doesn't sound like it would), get cut (e.g. rocks + vehicles + cable = damage), doesn't get bent at a sharp angle (can cause the relatively frail copper wires inside to tear), and isn't excessively weight bearing (e.g. like a rope), they can last decades.
 

objektor

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#25
Ok. Then there is no problem. No roads or traffic out here. We're the only two people living here :)
 
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