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Win11 doesn't work with my 5GHz network

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Which one would you recommend?
There are a lot of good ones out there. My current router is an ASUS model, but it's older and not being sold anymore.

Here's is one I can recommend as it's currently on the market and is very solid. It has great security settings and a lot of great options.
At $83 the sticker shock shouldn't be a thing. Has all wifi security protocols needed for Win11.

Another one I've been installing for clients is the RT-AX3000.
$140. Similar router with a few more features and somewhat better performance.
 
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That Nokia seems like a decent device. Silly question, but where and how is the antenna setup on motherboard?
 
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What about the non-S? The 1800 is $68 and 1800S is $186 on Amazon (seems it's imported from the States).
Don't know, never seen one. I don't think they sell that model stateside. If you can get it, the key features to seek are 1Gbps WAN/LAN port speed, 5Ghz wifi support(trust me it's excellent!) and WPA2 Enterprise & WPA3 security.

The RT-AX3000 has 2.5Gbps WAN + 4x 1Gbps LAN ports along with great wifi. The 2.5Gbps WAN is important if you have Fibre internet, which you stated you do.

Yeah, that's actually cheap! And it got at least one decent 3rd party (not ASUS and not user) review.

Asus RT-AX1800S Router Review: Great Value, Solid Performance | Tom's Hardware (tomshardware.com)
I love these routers! Great features, very solid performance and a reasonable price point! The AX3000 too. I've had simply excellent experiences. It's not been since the Cisco days that I've been able to rave about one so confidently. ASUS has made some winners recently.
 
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Turning it off does not increase security (a common, but ill-conceived reason often given to disable SSID broadcasting)
Absolutely correct. A few weeks ago, I assessed this at work by using Airgeddon (Parrot Linux). They still show up in the scan simply without an SSID but still selectable to attack.
 

bug

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What should I change? 5GHz access point works fine on Intel AX201 card on my laptop.
Since you said it can connect to the 2.4GHz band, why not combine bands under the same WiFi connection and then see if repeatedly connecting and disconnecting picks up the 5GHz band sometimes?
 
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Since you said it can connect to the 2.4GHz band, why not combine bands under the same WiFi connection and then see if repeatedly connecting and disconnecting picks up the 5GHz band sometimes?
Explain better. I'm not following.

As in, carrier aggregation?
 

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Explain better. I'm not following.

As in, carrier aggregation?
I don't recall the exact name, that may be it. Make both bands appear as a single WiFi network, essentially. That way you can ensure you've applied the same settings for both bands.
 
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Absolutely correct. A few weeks ago, I assessed this at work by using Airgeddon (Parrot Linux). They still show up in the scan simply without an SSID but still selectable to attack.
However, as the OP indicated, they will be turning the wifi on the fibre modem off. The SSID will not be accessible because it will not be active and running.
 
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There's a setting for bridging. Is that what you're referring to?

This is a screenshot of all the settings on the page:
1699629341317.png

the key features to seek are 1Gbps WAN/LAN port speed, 5Ghz wifi support(trust me it's excellent!) and WPA2 Enterprise & WPA3 security.

The RT-AX3000 has 2.5Gbps WAN + 4x 1Gbps LAN ports along with great wifi. The 2.5Gbps WAN is important if you have Fibre internet, which you stated you do.
I don't need nearly that much speed (although if I were to go wired, this particular motherboard has 1G and 2.5G ports both. I guess the 2.5G one is given for NAS).

The ISP maxes out at 300M, because of very stiff price competition. To give you an idea, I pay $12 + 18% tax monthly for a 200Mbps connection.
 

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This thread is why I buy Asus routers for my Internet.
 
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I love these routers!
If my current Netgear Nighthawk R7000P dies, I will definitely look into these (or whatever their current version is at the time). Thanks.
 
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There's a setting for bridging. Is that what you're referring to?

This is a screenshot of all the settings on the page:
1699629341317.png
Ok here we go.

First thing, Enable the MU-MIMO(Multi User - Multi In Multi Out) option. You're slowing yourself down with it turned off.
Second, In the options for "Encryption Mode", are you sure "WPA2-TKIP/AES" is not available? If it is, select it and you should be good to go. If it's not, then yes, you'll need a new router.

The ISP maxes out at 300M, because of very stiff price competition. To give you an idea, I pay $12 + 18% tax monthly for a 200Mbps connection.
WOW! That is fricken cheap!! Wish we had that here!

If my current Netgear Nighthawk R7000P dies
That another really good one. You chose well!
 
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Have you done what @Athlonite suggested and ensured that you are using the latest driver for your specific motherboard, from its manufacturer's support page? Alternatively try this.
 
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Could it be your devices are too close to each other, saturating the RF circuitry?
I see an option where the transmit power is 100%. You could test with lower transmit power.

Also, default 5GHz channel width is 20 MHz, yours is set at 80 MHz.
 
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Have you done what @Athlonite suggested and ensured that you are using the latest driver for your specific motherboard, from its manufacturer's support page? Alternatively try this.
I'm using all the latest drivers.

In the options for "Encryption Mode", are you sure "WPA2-TKIP/AES" is not available?
No. Only AES.
1699638373579.png

WOW! That fricken cheap!! Wish we had that here!
It's too cheap. It's so cheap it's killed all the local players and you have to turn to the big players (equivalent of AT&T and Google Fiber) for good fiber connectivity. And even those guys only have this kind of plans that go a max of 300 or so, or offer gigabit with exorbitant markups.

Could it be your devices are too close to each other, saturating the RF circuitry?
If I were to approximate, the computer and the router are about 30-50 feet apart. The laptop and computer are about 50cm apart on the same table.
Also, default 5GHz channel width is 20 MHz, yours is set at 80 MHz.
Is that an issue? That's the way it's always been.
 
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In that case I'd say, pick up a WiFi router that supports WPA3 and see if it fixes the problem. I splurged on a 6E model that'll probably last me the next half decade, regardless of which rubbish router my ISP gives me.
 
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Is that an issue? That's the way it's always been.
If there are multiple wireless networks all competing for a channel then I think it is best to have a default 20 MHz channel.
If on the other hand you are the only one using the available RF space then you can choose a wider channel.
Don't know how much of an improvement it brings in practice, never had the chance to test it.
 
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Exactly, that is a router security setting. Make sure your routers settings are appropriate. Windows 11 is more strict than previous versions of Windows about Wifi security. You need to make sure your wireless security is set to WPA2 and that TKIP/AES is enabled.
i doubt OP uses WEP. as about WPA2/3, win11 could use EZ both, BUT mediatek MAYBE could have issues with wpa3, if it's there lmfao. ax201 is rock solid lol

In that case I'd say, pick up a WiFi router that supports WPA3 and see if it fixes the problem. I splurged on a 6E model that'll probably last me the next half decade, regardless of which rubbish router my ISP gives me.
exactly. got my Asus TUF AX-5400 and happy with this after crap TPLINKs. Not even speaking about other piece of crap like "mikrotik", "xiaomi" (i am ok with phone, tablet, and cleaner though lol), or other "no name" "brands".... yes, the price is definitely idiotic for the router if you are not a gaming club, but, it has a lot of bells and whistles you could actually use.

If there are multiple wireless networks all competing for a channel then I think it is best to have a default 20 MHz channel.
If on the other hand you are the only one using the available RF space then you can choose a wider channel.
Don't know how much of an improvement it brings in practice, never had the chance to test it.
i use as much as possible, seems, neighbors have 2.4 more, but, nevertheless, no any issues.
 
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@lexluthermiester Guess what I found lurking around in the 2.4GHz settings when I went to see why my speed doesn't go above 50?
1699693015510.png

No points for guessing why my Win11 works with 2.4GHz now, huh?
I don't know who made this design decision, but they can either go to hell or I could thank them profusely that it doesn't automatically bar my system from connecting to the Internet. I'm not sure which.
 
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i doubt OP uses WEP.
I never said anything about WEP. Go re-read the conversation. Take it slow, cause you're missing something.

No. Only AES.
Damn. Yeah, that's the problem.
@lexluthermiester Guess what I found lurking around in the 2.4GHz settings when I went to see why my speed doesn't go above 50?
View attachment 321131
No points for guessing why my Win11 works with 2.4GHz now, huh?
I don't know who made this design decision, but they can either go to hell or I could thank them profusely that it doesn't automatically bar my system from connecting to the Internet. I'm not sure which.
Ok, that's very weird! TKIP should be available on 5Ghz as well. The fact that you can connect with 2.4 and not 5 is your evidence that Windows 11 requires TKIP.

I hate to say it, but you need a new router. On the upside, you'll have an excellent router that will serve you well for years to come. ASUS is well known for keeping their routers up to date.
 
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I have verified that the 1800 and 1800S is one and the same router based on the tech specs. I don't know - maybe the S is only available in the US.


@lexluthermiester Didn't you say that you weren't able to find the non-S anywhere? Same for the S on my side. They're the same with different prices for different markets.
I guess I'll go for that one. It has WPA3-Personal so it should last a bit, and I don't really want to spend $150+ on a new router.
 
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I have verified that the 1800 and 1800S is one and the same router based on the tech specs. I don't know - maybe the S is only available in the US.
Ok, that seems plausible.
@lexluthermiester Didn't you say that you weren't able to find the non-S anywhere? Same for the S on my side. They're the same with different prices for different markets.
I guess I'll go for that one. It has WPA3-Personal so it should last a bit, and I don't really want to spend $150+ on a new router.
That sounds like typical regional marketing.
 
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