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Your cooling setup and why did you choose/go that route?

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Pump noise has always bothered me more than fan noise. Not the volume, but the mechanical noises. Then, anything above 700rpm bothers me so :shrug: Fortunately I don’t play games or do anything CPU intensive anymore

Not saying you can’t build an extremely quiet watercooled build (you can), just that noise is more subjective then what can be evaluated with a sound meter.
 
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Pump noise has always bothered me more than fan noise. Not the volume, but the mechanical noises. Then, anything above 700rpm bothers me so :shrug: Fortunately I don’t play games or do anything CPU intensive anymore

Not saying you can’t build an extremely quiet watercooled build (you can), just that noise is more subjective then what can be evaluated with a sound meter.
For sure everyone's ears perceive noise differently. What bothers one person at a particular frequency may be unremarkable to someone else.

If your PC usage case doesn't generate much in the way of load (CPU, GPU or otherwise), you have more acoustic friendly solutions. There's one Noctua tower cooler that's passive (there's an optional fan). Certainly there are systems that only have passive cooling solutions (Apple's M1 and M2 MacBook Air are completely fanless).

From a performance-per-watt metric and acoustics noise, none of my computers (PC or Mac mini) come close to my iPad mini.

Regardless of decibel reading, the fans on my notebook computers over 20+ years of ownership have all been far more whiny and annoying than any of my desktop PCs.
 
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Hi,
Pump noise yeah I use 2 D5's in each of my builds I don't hear shit

D5's hate restriction and is why you may hear or feel them.

Or defective or you hurt it running it dry.
 
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One thing I discovered about custom cooling is how the pump affects acoustics. Sometimes the way it is mounted to the case will amplify noise via resonance.

In my primary gaming PC, the small water pump isn't secured to anything. It sits on a sheet of foam. The case isn't moved around so it doesn't matter that it's not screwed down. The pump is in a partitioned compartment on the far side of the case which undoubtedly also helps.

At least with a custom cooling loop you have the option of relocating the pump somewhere less obtrusive.
 
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Hi,
One sits on the floor of the case with just four pads on the feet and one mounted to the back of the case
Only problem is if you don't mount with plastic or rubber washers
Or nothing good happens if the impaler is damaged your d5 is gone

1661722929870.png
 

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It has other PSU options, and things like an optional hinged front rack to add mounting spots. Still gonna be a challenge in terms of rad space. It could concievably house at least two 240mm rads as long as they're under 30mm thick. Or something a like a 280 and a dual 92mm rad - slap some noccies on it for extra bottom rad volume to back up a 280 on the front. The way the mounting areas are punched allows for that kind of stuff, which is handy, because being limited to only convetional component forms would make laying out a full loop and leaving mounting space for a 2.5" drive or two much more difficult - I will have to be pretty careful with part selection to make everything work out. I'm honestly not sure what I would do with a case like this, yet. But that's part of the appeal with this side of building and configuring cooling setups.

With current platforms allowing for 2 nvme drives, I can deal with doing just that for system/games and then tacking on a fatter sata ssd for general storage. I came into a dual-chip 10-core xeon dell server, which is going to get packed with drives for both shared network storage and backup. So I can leave pretty much all of my available mounting space for cooling. But in a case this compact, I think I would rather go full custom liquid. It would be an interesting challenge for me, and will likely be the better way to get decent cooling for more power-hungry components.

Custom loop in the Cerb X is the epitome of "sounds great, doesn't [really] work". There are some beautiful dual loop Cerb Xs out there, but the pictures do not nearly convey the work that goes into it. And none of them work for any ram that runs hot.

You can easily fit 2 x 240mm rads (1 x 240 and 1 x 280 is doable iirc). The dual 92mm sounds like garbage. The 240mm needs to go on the bottom if you want an ATX board because you aren't getting to your bottom board headers otherwise. Hence the ITX choice for custom loop if bottom 280mm rad (Cerb X does not support mATX), also bottom 280mm may need to be either push or push-pull depending on your rad, because rivets in the bottom prevented a pull-only XT45.

I frequently try to move back into my grey Cerberus X, but always end up coming back to my white Cerberus. Proportions are wack, build quality is worse on mine and the larger size causes a lot of problems with cable length on SFX PSUs. Unless you are willing to buy/make custom lengths just for this case (not a worthy case lmao), SFX cables are too short (EPS) and ATX cables are too long.

But watercooling in Cerb/CerbX is just a very awkward proposition which is part of the reason why I moved the loop out in the end into the Core P3.
  • If you keep the normal SFX layout like mine, you get decent versatility in using either air or water, but if you do a loop then res location is very tough. You can go external with the Iceman like I do but the bends are really challenging, and having to wrestle with it stripped the acetal threads in the res. Otherwise you're looking at ghetto mounting a normal res externally, or cramming the smallest tube res you can find in the space between the PSU and board. Also have to get rather creative with the tube runs.
  • If you use the "PSU over board" layout recommended for watercooling, you get much more space for rads and options for res mounting. But for one it looks like complete ass, and you can't use a window unless you want your PSU to starve. It's also the worst case scenario for VRM and RAM temps (best of luck if you run any high performance DDR4 IC), unless you run push pull you will have zero case airflow, period. PSU needs to come out to work on stuff too. Can imagine clearances are a bit tight between the block/fittings and the PSU too, but EK's new low profile fittings should take care of that.
If you want to do it properly, the SM580 looks like a better choice, even if things look visually tight in that case. More rads = more better, but you'd be surprised what you can do on a high end 280 from hwlabs.

Also, kahlin suggested that there may be a fatter Cerb X coming out soon (end of year?). May have much better CPU cooler clearance, and ATX support in the front. If so, I might get one - supporting say a NH-D15, U12A or FC140 would mean I no longer have to look to water to solve my thermals.

In the end, the tubing runs on the Core P3 were much better and simpler, but even so, I didn't notice any performance differences - a single DDC is plenty strong enough for this setup.

core p3 loop.jpg


I love hating on EK but their black chrome quantum torque fittings are very nice indeed. Was tempted by the gold plated versions too but i'm not going to tear apart the entire loop just for that aesthetic reason. Admire your cable management and general neatness, I usually get tired of building, tuning and tweaking by the point i'm satisfied with performance, so much that I don't want to spend an extra half hour or so managing aesthetics.

The EK fittings look nice but they really take a toll on the hands. I put together a loop 3 times (Cerb, Cerb X, P3) and peeling bleeding hands smarted for days. The threads are very short and hard to catch. I should have used more 90s like you do, to ease the angles a bit.

Except for the loops (that take me >1 day), cable management usually takes up the majority of my time. Building takes 1 hour tops, cable runs take 2 hours sometimes in the smaller cases. I know not everybody has that sort of time to waste, and it doesn't improve performance at all.

As the final piece of the puzzle I would love some custom length and curve cables done for my SF750, but I don't yet have a case I feel is worthy of it. Still waiting patiently for Caselabs to come back.

Pump noise has always bothered me more than fan noise. Not the volume, but the mechanical noises. Then, anything above 700rpm bothers me so :shrug: Fortunately I don’t play games or do anything CPU intensive anymore

Not saying you can’t build an extremely quiet watercooled build (you can), just that noise is more subjective then what can be evaluated with a sound meter.

Pumps are a bit like screens - the lottery might give you a whisper quiet DDC or one that sounds like a banshee. The res you mount it to (or standalone mount) also has a big impact on overall pump sound profile.

AIOs are just not a good choice for pump noise.
 
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What kind of quick disconnects are those?
Hi,
Koolance
QD3-MS10X16-BK
QD3-FS10X16-BK

Alphacool showed some nice ones here

1661724105991.png
 
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Hi,
A recent question brought up a good point about pump noise so bumping the thread

People get to lazy and use to many 90 degree fittings instead of 45's or even straight barbs with soft tubing or even hard tubing take the easy out and 90 everything to avoid bending tubing
Personally I don't mind the octopus look and even if I used hard tubing I would bend the tube instead of over use of 90's but some people not so much and like straight lines/... and the pump curses them so they have to slow it down to limit pump noise

Yes often optimizing/ slowing down pump speed will allow a little better cooling seeing the fluid travels slower through radiators but this is just day to day use not max overclocking where full blast fans and pump speed will show better results
Max overclocking is not a quiet sport by the way :cool:

I run my pwm pumps 100% by not connecting them to the board
I do not hear them at all and I use two in both builds couple foot away from me.

I do love D5 pumps but restriction does make them noisy.
Hmm. Never thought of 45's that way


As to the D5 discussion i've got two and they're completely silent - but you screw anything up and vibration can ruin your day. A loose screw or having the attached pump/res directly touching case metal, and you'll know about it.
 
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Optimizing your air cooling solutions for acoustics is a very similar process to doing it for liquid. You still need to play around with the fan curves using your BIOS/UEFI, your motherboard monitor software and GPU monitoring software (EVGA Precision X1, Asus GPUTweak, etc.) based on idle temperatures/fan noise, normal load, and peak.
I have no budget for a good water AIO, even less for a good custom water loop.
Except for an extreme scenarios, fans can do the same work for much less money and more easy (for me, at lest) to config and install.
Good fans last longer then radiator and much easier to change, clean and no re-fill is required (obviously).

Also, I need lots of HDD storage in my case (big library of RAW video) so AIO, and to much bigger extent custom loop, eats up too much real estate.

Maybe, one day, I will entertain myself with external custom loop build if I have the money and the motivation :)
 
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Just wanna say that I’ve owned two d5’s, three mcp655’s, a vpp755, a couple of DDC’s, and used to run eheim’s (actually my favorite), and built a few WC setups for others. I never mounted any of them, and even suspended them with bungees and other odd mounts, as well as the just-sitting-on-foam mount, shoggy sandwich, undervolting, etc.

They can be quiet, but the whiny motor noise always bugged, whether my fans were running or not.

I know I’m not the only one who finds them intrusive, but generally agree that once you add fan noise most people won’t notice — many won’t notice even without added fan noise. I’ve had people claim those systems were silent and was just confused. Then, some people think Asetek pumps are silent :shrug:
 

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Just wanna say that I’ve owned two d5’s, three mcp655’s, a vpp755, a couple of DDC’s, and used to run eheim’s (actually my favorite), and built a few WC setups for others. I never mounted any of them, and even suspended them with bungees and other odd mounts, as well as the just-sitting-on-foam mount, shoggy sandwich, undervolting, etc.

They can be quiet, but the whiny motor noise always bugged, whether my fans were running or not.

I know I’m not the only one who finds them intrusive, but generally agree that once you add fan noise most people won’t notice — many won’t notice even without added fan noise. I’ve had people claim those systems were silent and was just confused. Then, some people think Asetek pumps are silent :shrug:
Mounting them properly gets rid of that whine
Both my D5's (ones EK PWM, ones random old skool with a dial) have that noise, but when mounted it's simply gone. I left my fill hose attached and the noise came back after a few days and I was confused til I found the metal end piece of it touching the case, removed that and it was silent again
 
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You’re crazy lol I could never bare a d5 mounted :)
 

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You might become the first person to leak himself on his pc :D


i do leak a lot of sweat onto my PC already.
 
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Hi,
Pump whine well you'd get that if there's air trapped in a d5 top or combo if it's mounted sideways/ horizontal instead of straight up and down like d5 combos with reservoirs are typically mounted ek dual d5 unit is usually mounted this way to same deal just more grunt

So it's usually just an air issue also caused by not running the pump full blast during leak testing and tilting the case every which way to get rid of air bubbles every where
Getting all the air out takes more time than people are willing to give it and slow the pump down way to early.
 
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In my short time with custom cooling loops, I found that varying the pump speed periodically helps better in getting rid of air bubbles.

If you run the pump at full tilt, the impeller spins so fast some bubbles don't have a chance to escape; they are trapped inside the impeller's core and around the spindle. Varying the pump speed from slow-medium-fast provides more opportunities to dissipate some of these bubbles.

As ThrashZone mentions, you do need to tilt the case in a bunch of directions to dislodge air bubbles in various crevices. For sure, there are some custom cooling builds out there that are noisier than they should be because the owner didn't take the time to eliminate more bubbles.
 
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Hi,
Hell I even bop the case a few times in every tilted position to release the little bugger bubbles
Then it always looks like I'm using white fluid when it's really clear another thing I love about plexi and clear tubing get to see everything :laugh:
 
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Hi,
Hell I even bop the case a few times in every tilted position to release the little bugger bubbles
That's something I don't do.

3-pin and 4-pin RGB cables never seem to grip tightly on their motherboard headers. A little too risky for me to jar one loose by bopping the case.

Perhaps you have a different system configuration that eliminates this hazard.
 
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Hi,
Leak testing you're not dealing with a completely live system otherwise it wouldn't be a testing environment get a leak in a live system and board is easily toasted
24 pin tripper is used just so molex/ sata is live for the pump to operate and nothing else

After getting all the air out just check connections and and you're done basically

 
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I always jump the ATX24 for pump/loop testing for at least a couple of hours, but to be honest, not much chance of a leak with good compression fittings.
 
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I always jump the ATX24 for pump/loop testing for at least a couple of hours, but to be honest, not much chance of a leak with good compression fittings.
Hi,
All my radiators are gtx so dual core and complex
I give it as long as it takes usually over night after I feel most air is out
In the morning I repeat bopping it around a bit and if bubbles or very little is released I'm done.

Another thing
I never completely fill the reservoir during leak/.. testing
I always keep it an inch+- below the top so I can see the fluid line running and off so I can see how far the water line drops turning the system on
When there is very little air in the system the line drop is only 1/4" or less
Anymore and you've still got air somewhere so tilt and bop it more.
Then top it off.

PITA in other words :laugh:
 
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Hi,
Leak testing you're not dealing with a completely live system otherwise it wouldn't be a testing environment get a leak in a live system and board is easily toasted
24 pin tripper is used just so molex/ sata is live for the pump to operate and nothing else

After getting all the air out just check connections and and you're done basically

Unfortunately my custom loop builds require me to plug in all of the motherboard header connections before I complete the loop. Most of the motherboard connectors are along the perimeter of the motherboard that are inaccessible once the loop is set up.

I do test individual cooling loop components outside of the case for product defects.

Once the loop is set up, I will run the pump only from an extra PSU outside the case. I'll let this run overnight for leak detection and bubble purging but no longer. Running pump only with the external PSU at low speeds is a pretty good way of eliminating most of the air bubbles from the pump impeller and shaft.

During this time I'll vary the pump motor speed because I have one of these:


Even if the RGB isn't powered up, roughly jostling the chassis can still dislodge the flimsy connectors. I can reconnect some cables with a pair of forceps, some I cannot.

You are likely more patient than me because I'll eventually want to use the system as a functional computer. So I end up tilting a running computer from time to time because there are always a few bubbles hanging around.
 
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