Discussion in 'techPowerUp! Club Forum' started by EastCoasthandle, Feb 8, 2008.
Just left my vote.
I say it again: That is one TOUGH looking rig!
does stock cooling count ?
How well does that MC-TDX perform? I'm thinking of switching cpu blocks.
And can anyone comment on my post #27?
have you tried to "bow" your block?
are you using a backplate?
id swap out the rad to an mcr-series. what fans are you using?
do you have the modded tops for your pump?
i think that MC-TDX will perform 1c-3c better than your current block
do you have any pix of your setup?
anybody thats wanting help just ask, someone will be glad to assist
Sorry, no pix. But the loop is very straightforward, with no kinks or excess tubing.
I can't believe I forgot to list the fans. lol. 3xSilverstone FM-122B's. PLenty of flow potential, but cranking the speed seems to have little effect.
No, my pump doesn't have a mod top, but that was one of the things I was considering. I was also considering running 2 in series without mod tops. With a single pump and a top, I could switch to 1/2" tubing, but with 2 pumps, I'll have to stick to 3/8" and the 1/2" to 3/8" reducers at the rad. Then there's also the consideration that a top will cost me a little money, whereas the 2 pump setup would be free, due to the spare 2 pumps I have.
And no, I'm not using a backplate, nor did I try to bow the block. Those are 2 very good suggestions actually. Didn't even consider them. My quad does seem a bit concave, judging by the way the tim spreads.
That leads me to my next question, how do you bow a block? lol. This is honestly the first chip I've ever had that seems a little concave.
those silverstone fans are not idael for rad application they have low static pressure which inhibits their performance
ill just post the link but youll have to do the digging im off to do an EMG :shadedshu
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70 <fan reviews, how to's, guides and more
plz no haters, just collaborators
Man, thanks again. That was a kick-ass link. I now know I'll be replacing the fans with YL D12SH-12's from Petras, and I'll just slap them on a cheapo controller.
What does everybody think of my pump situation, and how do you "bow" a block?
-If the situation has worsen then what you are normally seeing, I suggest that you disasemble the WB to see if the cooling surface is clogged and oriented correctly, look here.
-Feel the tubing while the computer is one. Is it room temperature or is it warmer then normal? If it is warmer then normal you may have air pockets. Shake the rad a few times to see if bubbles appear in the loop. Also loosen the reservoir to see if there is air pressure there as well.
-I was never fond of the GT. But it's better then the storm and TDX.
Side note: Don't bow the WB it isn't worth it. And once it's bowed it stays that way.
@Wile E - To bow the base on your Swiftech CPU block, they supply a thicker rubber O ring that you have to replace the original with.Can be quite fiddly to get the base and top back together without the thicker O ring slipping out on you -or at least that's what I found.
Only achieved about a 2c drop in temps with it bowed.
EDIT: I think I will go MC-TDX on my next build as well.
Rad is on the outside.
So you do think the block is the culprit?
And what of the pump setup? I know reducers are a bit restrictive, so I thought it might be a possible flow issue.
-If the situation has worsen then what you are normally seeing, I suggest that you disassemble the WB to see if the cooling surface is clogged and oriented correctly, look here.
-Feel the tubing while the computer is on. Is it room temperature or is it warmer then normal? If it is warmer then normal you may have air pockets. Shake the rad a few times to see if bubbles appear in the loop. Also remove the reservoir's cap to see if there is air pressure there as well.
-I was never fond of the GT. But it's better then the storm and TDX.
-Ambient temps also play a role. Is it warm/hot in the room?
-I would also consider remounting the WB to the C2Q CPU and use the line method when installing the thermal compound.
C2Q Line Method
Used the line method for my tim. I originally used a dot in the center, but later reseated using the line method, and the results were excellent. On the order of 7C under load.
My tubing is at room temp, and the room is about 18-19C.
Guess I'll have to do a tear-down, and check my block.
This also could be a matter of Quads just running way hotter than I'm used to seeing. Is 56C under prime95 load a good temp for 1.5V on a Q6600?
Sorry for all the Q's people. I appreciate the help.
Yes, thats fine IMO.
I'm on water also...
A good pump alone would account for nearly half the cost of the kit. That's the point of wc kits, they are cost effective. They may not offer the best cooling solution but at that price you get slightly better performance then a HSF on a hot summer day.
got any pix?
sorry no pictures as of yet
got my new EK-Supreme - Acetal block today fairly impressive only been on for a few hrs and the temps seem much better
with my old swiftech Apogee™ GT with processor at 3.2 ghz (idle temps)
And the new EK-Supreme with processor at 3.2 ghz (idle temps)
trade a little flow for some restriction, and blammo!
7 deg less!
nice what are load temps?
I like to know if the Thermochill is actually worth near $100 over the Swiftech version
ThermoChill PA120.3 ($134.99)
Swiftech MCR320-QP ($44.99)
Any idea's on a good 2900XT block too ?
Kinda "apples to oranges", the ThermoChill is a dual-row, dual-pass rad and the Swify is a single-row, dual-pass rad.
So depending on your cooling needs, it may be a waste or a good investment.
Say you've got a P4 OC'd to 5GHz, a X1900XT block and a NB block in your loop: the Swifty is not going to cut the mustard. But if you are running a E8400 at a modest OC and have a video card with a smaller fab core, it would work.
Now looking at your specs: that Manchester and your 2900XT are producing major heat. I wouldn't skimp on the rad. There is a middle ground between the two you linked.
I'm quite partial to my Black Ice Extreme triple. Quite affordable and works well. (Not the most quiet rad, but then again I've got three 86.5 CFM Panaflos wailing away on mine!)
Thanks.. Nice to know and that it does a lot better than if needed. So a Thermochill would be a better investment to if i decide to add more to the loop..
Well the CPU is not that hot 42c max in a room temp of 95f in summer.
I've been watercooling for over a year now. I have over time decided to keep my loops as basic as possible as maintenance and mod's just become to painful with too much tubing and joins. I was watercooling a 680i NB, SB, dual ram and SLI 8800GT's. The CPU was cooled by a Coolit Freezone. I had since had a water cooling incident which obliterated my 680i mobo and sacrificed a 8800GT. I now only water cool the CPU and the SLI 8800GT's running on an Asus 780 Striker II. I decided to remove the Freezone as condensation was forming around the chiller unit due to the excessive heat output of the mobo's mosfet heatsink and plus I could not fit an active fan to the heatsink with the Freezone in place. I had no choice but to reduce power to the peltiers which made no sense to keep in the system as air cooling was doing a similar job. I have stayed with Koolance products, there are better performing products are out there I know. I like the range of fittings plus I don't like to mix and matck blocks and the performance isn't that bad.
42C at full load with the overclock you have in your System Specs?
What do you need water cooling for?!?
thermochill = kick ass!!! i have every one of their rads and they are RAD!!!
i use my... PA160.1 for quads on my bench
PA120.1 for duals on my bench
PA120.2 is im my main rig cooling my cpu/NB/SB/VRM loop
PA120.3 is used in my main rig for cooling GPU(s). (waiting for my EK3870x2 blocks)
ALSO... many people build great water cooling systems but very few people remember to plan ahead and THINK ABOUT HOW THEY WILL DRAIN THEIR LOOP!!!
just a reminder.... because it's a PITA to drain a loop when you forgot to plan it out right.
Im going to ask a very stupid question (there are no stupid questions, just stupid people), so dont flame me.
When water cooling, do you have to completely empty out all the liquid to accomodate new parts? (eg. do you have to empty out the water to install a newer CPU? Same for GPU)
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