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PC boots to windows desktop - then shuts down without any errors.

There are red spots on the pci-e slot near the ASUS logo, on the asmedia chips above and below that slot, and near the audio capacitors.

I'd give that area most of your attention, particularly, behind that pci-e slot.
 
I utilize contact cleaner spray
do you go through a particular routine with some sort of sponge or q-tips when you use the contact cleanser?
I feel like it is sort of an ineffectual shit smearing across the board when I spray the PCIe, ramslots, and etc, unless the cleansing liquid that diluted the foreign particles and substances is soaked up.

There are red spots on the pci-e slot near the ASUS logo, on the asmedia chips above and below that slot, and near the audio capacitors.

I'd give that area most of your attention, particularly, behind that pci-e slot.
You know, i am an absolute cretin. I actually took a closer look, and just realized that lots of circuitry, and PCB elements are covered in the red dust, meaning that i didn't clean anything lol...
Ashamed people see stuff better on screenshots, than I in person.

I have another little question. How would the liquid metal on the CPU react with the oven environment? :)
 
do you go through a particular routine with some sort of sponge or q-tips when you use the contact cleanser?
I feel like it is sort of an ineffectual shit smearing across the board when I spray the PCIe, ramslots, and etc, unless the cleansing liquid that diluted the foreign particles and substances is soaked up.


You know, i am an absolute cretin. I actually took a closer look, and just realized that lots of circuitry, and PCB elements are covered in the red dust, meaning that i didn't clean anything lol...
Ashamed people see stuff better on screenshots, than I in person.

I have another little question. How would the liquid metal on the CPU react with the oven environment? :)

Qtips are fine paper towels, but use the red wand that is included with sprays.

If you try the methods to no avail replace the mobo.

After spraying a board down i give it a shake
 
I'm not sure about the liquid metal in the oven, it's already so liquid.

I was only suggesting the oven in combination with using water to clean the board.

I'm not sure if contact cleaner will pickup the dried cooling fluid. It may need water to dissolve into.

Some gentle brushing is likely needed.

I'm sure I don't need to say, if using water, dry the board THOROUGHLY.
 
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I'm not sure about the liquid metal in the oven, it's already so liquid.

I was only suggesting the oven in combination with using water to clean the board.

I'm not sure if contact cleaner will pickup the dried cooling fluid. It may need water to dissolve into.

Some gentle brushing is likely needed.

I'm sure I don't need to say, if using water, dry the board THOROUGHLY.

Might as well use distilled water, impurities in tapwater csn become bridging material
 
I'm not sure about the liquid metal in the oven, it's already so liquid.

I was only suggesting the oven in combination with using water to clean the board.

I'm not sure if contact cleaner will pickup the dried cooling fluid. It may need water to dissolve into.

Some gentle brushing is likely needed.

I'm sure I don't need to say, if using water, dry the board THOROUGHLY.

Yeah I wouldn't want the Terminator 2 ending.

I guess wetting the qtips with water, rubbing and cleaning, following by isopropyl should be enough to get the grime off.

On the other hand, wtf is up with prices.
Everything from broadwell generation still has the same price up on Amazon. CPUs, motherboards, waterblocks... God damn
 
Yeah I wouldn't want the Terminator 2 ending.

I guess wetting the qtips with water, rubbing and cleaning, following by isopropyl should be enough to get the grime off.

On the other hand, wtf is up with prices.
Everything from broadwell generation still has the same price up on Amazon. CPUs, motherboards, waterblocks... God damn

See if this tool might help

https://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed
 
This could be a lot of things, but an overheating CPU is consistent with this behaviour in the bios too. The overheat is obviously fairly slow, or the shutdown would be almost immediate. See if you can monitor the temp in the bios before it shuts down - expect to see it climbing rapidly and then... boom. Then, remove the CPU and refit it with new paste. Is the pump actually working?

IMPORTANT Don’t boot it into Windows until you’ve fixed it, since you’re only damaging the file system and Windows every time it does that.

Please fill in your system specs so we can help you better.
I'm with @EarthDog that it is temperature related. It happened to me and it turned out that the water pump was dead => high temperature => shut down.
 
I'm with @EarthDog that it is temperature related. It happened to me and it turned out that the water pump was dead => high temperature => shut down.
Well, while i am currently baking my mobo lol, i will just say that my temperatures were consistently below 30 Celsius up to the point where start up programs are updating on windows desktop.

I totally agree that it is very similar to the behavior of a screaming CPU that is dying of overheat, but i feel like it isn't the case on the liquid metal paste + 360 mm radiator with 6 fans.


Sounds like a super useful program for the future. I am just not sure how i will isntall it :(
 
@Ruvik you can take the windows 10 ssd or hdd from ur pc and put it as the device to boot from in a laptop you can use your installation then and install the app. Although thinking more it may not be a driver issue as the program focuses on from the first 10 lines I read from the website.
 
I'm with @EarthDog that it is temperature related. It happened to me and it turned out that the water pump was dead => high temperature => shut down.
You quoted my post, so I think you meant to quote my name, not earthdog?

BTW the OP confirmed in a later post that he checked the BIOS, which didn't show an overheating CPU.
 
Sounds like a dead short. Breadboard it.

Otherwise, binary test parts at a time to find the culprit.

If the board got wet at all while powered on, your SOL PERIOD! Easy fix, buy a new unused board and test. Save time, if one cpu pin is bent you will loose the board and THE CPU(I know trust me!).
 
Well, while i am currently baking my mobo lol, i will just say that my temperatures were consistently below 30 Celsius up to the point where start up programs are updating on windows desktop.

I totally agree that it is very similar to the behavior of a screaming CPU that is dying of overheat, but i feel like it isn't the case on the liquid metal paste + 360 mm radiator with 6 fans.



Sounds like a super useful program for the future. I am just not sure how i will isntall it :(
30 from where, sometimes the temp looks good since the sensor doesn't read it right
 
You quoted my post, so I think you meant to quote my name, not earthdog?

BTW the OP confirmed in a later post that he checked the BIOS, which didn't show an overheating CPU.
@qubit. Post next to yours, yes I meant your post. Still it is worth checking that the pump is running.
 
Might want to check bios for a setting called watch dog timer, if enabled and no compatible driver present in OS, the system will simply turn off after several minutes, in bios or windows, no warning whatsoever. It is supposed to monitor for watchdog handshakes from the driver and turn off the pc if none are sent. Very annoying.
 
So i wanted to make an update.
I warmed the mobo and the PSU in an oven for a few hours at 195-200 degrees fahrenheit.

I connected all the components on the table with a single fan blowing at the CPU.
I didn't connect the M.2 SSD.

I kept the system idle in the bios mode, and it was quite a long period of time where it just sat there. It didn't shut off, or showed any errors. (I didn't test that with SSD though as i was informed unstable shut offs damage the stored files).

I seriously thought it was fixed as it totally lacked the previous symptoms of shutting off after around 1 minute - 40 seconds mark, no matter whether it is Windows boot or idle Bios test.
I packed everything into case and reinstalled the loop.

And god damn it... it shut down on windows desktop again. After trying idle bios instead of M.2 windows boot, it started to shut off on idle bios too...

This is driving me nuts.
It maintained stable on idle bios as 88 degrees celsius, but in a case with the loop, it just doesn't.

Could the case or the loop be shorting it in some way?
-----------
 
Check standoffs
 
Check standoffs

You know, screw this electronic masturbation, i am getting another mobo.

One of the ram slots now gave out too (none of the ramsticks), so it got to be something with the motherboard.
Not sure whether i caused the damage to it physically due to me replacing the CPU waterblock over and over, or if it is still the remains of the leak damage ,but it doesnt matter. I need those 32 gigs for Solidworks and etc.

My only fear is to buy new X99 board, and find out that CPU is also damaged in some sense.
Do you think you could suggest anything on that?

If the PC boots successfully, the board error-code display does not mention any CPU related error codes, and it reaches the windows start up programs which do not error...
Is that a sufficient information to assess that CPU is fine? (no bent pins symptoms and etc).

I was thinking of getting a used X99 board from Amazon or ebay, as the prices for the new ones do not seem to be discounted, and i don't really want to pay MSRP for obsolete stuff.

If it is new CPU and and mobo deal, i would definitely go with the Ryzen stuff, but i was kind of hoping to upgrade to the upcoming Ryzen 3 and new generation of mobos, if they impress.
 
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You know, screw this electronic masturbation, i am getting another mobo.

One of the ram slots now gave out too (none of the ramsticks), so it got to be something with the motherboard.
Not sure whether i caused the damage to it physically due to me replacing the CPU waterblock over and over, or if it is still the remains of the leak damage ,but it doesnt matter. I need those 32 gigs for Solidworks and etc.

My only fear is to buy new X99 board, and find out that CPU is also damaged in some sense.
Do you think you could suggest anything on that?

If the PC boots successfully, the board error-code display does not mention any CPU related error codes, and it reaches the windows start up programs which do not error...
Is that a sufficient information to assess that CPU is fine? (no bent pins symptoms and etc).

I was thinking of getting a used X99 board from Amazon or ebay, as the prices for the new ones do not seem to be discounted, and i don't really want to pay MSRP for obsolete stuff.

If it is new CPU and and mobo deal, i would definitely go with the Ryzen stuff, but i was kind of hoping to upgrade to the upcoming Ryzen 3 and new generation of mobos, if they impress.

Wait on Ryzen 3000, X570 Chipsets are supposed to have pcie 4 on them and AMD exclusive chipset (not ASMedia)

X99 boards are not cheap and yes it's possible the cpu is damaged, not likely though.

Further info


https://winaero.com/blog/show-bsod-details-instead-of-the-sad-smiley-in-windows-10/

Utilize this link and Tool.

https://home.diagnostics.support.mi...wledgebasearticlefilter=2027760&wa=wsignin1.0

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/client-management/troubleshoot-stop-errors
 
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It's only obsolete if it's not useful.
After AMD came and BTFO the industry in price/performance, i would say things definitely may be called obsolete, especially when clueless retailers keep the MSRP.
6950x is probably the worst nickel and dime with price-performance disparity ever.
The amount of cores, speed, threads and the price you pay for them, was absolutely reborn in the last 2 years.

But buying old for the same old crazy prices is obsolete.
 
After AMD came and BTFO the industry in price/performance, i would say things definitely may be called obsolete, especially when clueless retailers keep the MSRP. 6950x is probably the worst nickel and dime with price-performance disparity ever. The amount of cores, speed, threads and the price you pay for them, was absolutely reborn in the last 2 years.
But buying old for the same old crazy prices is obsolete.
These aren't priced at MSRP.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-X99A-SLI-PLUS-LGA-2011-v3-Intel-X99-SATA-6Gb-s/202603243524
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-E3-PRO-GAMING-V5-LGA-1151-Motherboard-NEW/153311839126
 
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