Soft tubing size

[lorry]

I'm looking to learn more about open loop water cooling with soft tubing.
I have the chance of getting a D5 pump combo, have an alphacool 360 T30 rad and wondered which is better suited, 13/10 or 16/10, and why please.
The case is a View 71 and AMD 3900x.
I know that the thicker walls are 'better' but are harder to bend for routing, so was hoping to get folks thoughts on both.
Thanks.

 

[Beertintedgoggles]

The thicker walls are less likely to kink on a tight bend. Way back in the day (like 15 years ago when I water cooled), that was the benefit of thicker tubing. With compression fittings and whatnot anymore, they might make a better seal or you might have issues of them not fitting into the fitting.

 

[sneekypeet]

It will likely break the bank on your endeavor, but most of us tend to use angled fittings to alleviate bends and possible kink/stress points in the runs.
To me, tubing is a preference thing. I used to go with the 1/2" ID stuff (thick wall) and ran into issues like you stated. I opted for some fittings after some time, but ended up stretching 3/8" ID tubing over 1/2" fittings on my last loop because I liked the look.

With good bits, performance wont change much by tube diameter, so buy what ya like.

 

[Dinnercore]

13/10 or 16/10 is just a change in outer diameter, meaning wall strength. Flow will be the same but like mentioned the thicker one does not kink as easy.

I prefer the 16/10 just because of the look, more 'substantial' tubes. In terms of bends, the 13/10s can be easier to work with or worse depending on the angle and length you need to go.

Like you said there are two sides, for one the 16/10 is stiffer. I did a 180° turn to connect two top radiators next to each other on an older build (thermaltake Core X9 top panel). They did not kink BUT were so stiff that it was a bit tricky to keep the tube from slipping of the fitting. Once it was screwed down on the compression ring it was fine tho.
A 13/10 would probably not have made this turn.

But if you keep the lines mostly straight the 13/10 should be easier to work with. They will sag a bit more when you make them very long. I dont see how it would make any difference in leak-proofing since the fittings are size specific and clamp down on the 13/10 the same way they do on the 16/10.

Another point about 16/10, some old waterblocks (not relevant for your hardware I think) dont work with the thick fittings due to the inlet and outlet being to close together. Especially on those tiny northbridge blocks, but they rarely get used today because there is absolutly no need.

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

With good bits, performance wont change much by tube diameter, so buy what ya like.

I think Jays2cents did a video on that.

 

[EarthDog]

I think Jays2cents did a video on that.

As well as actual experts... skinny labs covered this well over a decade ago.

 

[moproblems99]

I run 7/16 / 5/8 with a 1/2 barb which is pretty much equivalent to 10/16. I do this because that is what originally came with the kit I bought. As I changed out parts, I kept to the tube size. I ran the black stuff that I got from McMaster-Carr as I tried three different types of clear tubing and got plasticizer with all of them - two different types of Tygon and Primochill LRT. I am running EK ZMT right now because I could get it faster than from MMC.

 

[lorry]

The thicker walls are less likely to kink on a tight bend. Way back in the day (like 15 years ago when I water cooled), that was the benefit of thicker tubing. With compression fittings and whatnot anymore, they might make a better seal or you might have issues of them not fitting into the fitting.

Surely though with the correctly sized fittings that would be a non-issue?

It will likely break the bank on your endeavor, but most of us tend to use angled fittings to alleviate bends and possible kink/stress points in the runs.
To me, tubing is a preference thing. I used to go with the 1/2" ID stuff (thick wall) and ran into issues like you stated. I opted for some fittings after some time, but ended up stretching 3/8" ID tubing over 1/2" fittings on my last loop because I liked the look.

With good bits, performance wont change much by tube diameter, so buy what ya like.

With that I'd imagine that you are really saying buy whichever size appeals to me the most?

13/10 or 16/10 is just a change in outer diameter, meaning wall strength. Flow will be the same but like mentioned the thicker one does not kink as easy.

I prefer the 16/10 just because of the look, more 'substantial' tubes. In terms of bends, the 13/10s can be easier to work with or worse depending on the angle and length you need to go.

Like you said there are two sides, for one the 16/10 is stiffer. I did a 180° turn to connect two top radiators next to each other on an older build (thermaltake Core X9 top panel). They did not kink BUT were so stiff that it was a bit tricky to keep the tube from slipping of the fitting. Once it was screwed down on the compression ring it was fine tho.
A 13/10 would probably not have made this turn.

But if you keep the lines mostly straight the 13/10 should be easier to work with. They will sag a bit more when you make them very long. I dont see how it would make any difference in leak-proofing since the fittings are size specific and clamp down on the 13/10 the same way they do on the 16/10.

Another point about 16/10, some old waterblocks (not relevant for your hardware I think) dont work with the thick fittings due to the inlet and outlet being to close together. Especially on those tiny northbridge blocks, but they rarely get used today because there is absolutly no need.

It's an AMD 3900x and block I will need to save for, so I thought that I'd try to decide on tubing size first, as tubing and fittings should be cheaper than a block?

I run 7/16 / 5/8 with a 1/2 barb which is pretty much equivalent to 10/16. I do this because that is what originally came with the kit I bought. As I changed out parts, I kept to the tube size. I ran the black stuff that I got from McMaster-Carr as I tried three different types of clear tubing and got plasticizer with all of them - two different types of Tygon and Primochill LRT. I am running EK ZMT right now because I could get it faster than from MMC.

Plasticizer? What's that please?

Does anywhere in the UK do samples of tubing at all?
As I don't have Any experience with watercooling and never really looked specifically for size of tube in any build pics, I've nothing to go on.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I forgot to say that I will be using the radiator from the Alphacool 360 AIO, this one -

Alphacool

Eisbaer - Technische Daten

www.alphacool.com

It says there that the tubing is 11/8, so I presume that the fittings are G 1/4 to 11/8?
I presume that they will need to be changed ?

If so, would something like these be the correct fittings please (presuming that I went with 13/10)

Alphacool 17387 HF 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 - Deep Black Sixpack WaterCooling Raccoring : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Buy

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[Dinnercore]

It's an AMD 3900x and block I will need to save for, so I thought that I'd try to decide on tubing size first, as tubing and fittings should be cheaper than a block?

You can choose the tubing size first, I think every single AM4 block out there supports fittings for 13/10 and 16/10. If it´s cheaper depends, fittings can add up very quickly if you throw in more components.

If so, would something like these be the correct fittings please (presuming that I went with 13/10)

Yes those would work perfect.

Do you just want a loop for the CPU for now? Then 6 fittings should do. 2 for the block, 2 for the rad and 2 for the pump-res combo.

And keep in mind that you might need some angled fittings too. Depending on the routing for your tubes, angled fittings help prevent kinking.

I forgot to say that I will be using the radiator from the Alphacool 360 AIO, this one -

Do clarify, do you have just this radiator or did it come with tubing already? If it´s from the AiO it might even have quick-connectors with the tubes which may be a reason to stick with the 11/8 tubing they have and build your loop with these:

Alphacool Eisbaer GPX Extension Set (Schlauch und Anschlüsse)

Mit dem Eisbaer Quick-Connect Extension Set lässt sich der Kreislauf eines Eisbaer oder Eiswolf GPX-Pro Kühlers spielend leicht um weitere Komponenten erweitern. Zum Beispiel mit einem weiteren Radiator, einem weiteren Kühler oder...

www.alphacool.com

If its just the radiator with the 11/8 fittings, yeah you will need to change those to the size you want to use. Or else you will have a hard time squeezing the 11mm compression ring over a 13mm or 16mm tube. It might just work, but I would avoid it if I could.

 

[xtreemchaos]

13/10 on most of my builds, I like the look of thinner tubes.

 

[lorry]

If its just the radiator with the 11/8 fittings, yeah you will need to change those to the size you want to use. Or else you will have a hard time squeezing the 11mm compression ring over a 13mm or 16mm tube. It might just work, but I would avoid it if I could.

it's the full AIO, but I am okay with using just the radiator from it, as I do Not like that particular quick fitting and I see no point in using a 'non-standard' sizing (or one that not many use in open loop).

I am Very lucky in that I have managed to lay my hands on one of these bad boys -

WAVE - EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB | Plexi : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Buy WAVE - EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB | Plexi at Amazon UK. Free delivery and return on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

so I will use the radiator from the AIO, this pump and then get fittings, tubing etc when I can save up enough

13/10 on most of my builds, I like the look of thinner tubes.

Yes, as my mate has a few spare I will buy them off of him and get the others, works out cheaper that way rather than buying every part for a 16/10

 

[Kapone33]

it's the full AIO, but I am okay with using just the radiator from it, as I do Not like that particular quick fitting and I see no point in using a 'non-standard' sizing (or one that not many use in open loop).

I am Very lucky in that I have managed to lay my hands on one of these bad boys -

WAVE - EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB | Plexi : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Buy WAVE - EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB | Plexi at Amazon UK. Free delivery and return on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

so I will use the radiator from the AIO, this pump and then get fittings, tubing etc when I can save up enough



Yes, as my mate has a few spare I will buy them off of him and get the others, works out cheaper that way rather than buying every part for a 16/10

I am confused as to why you are replacing the pump/res/block unit from the EIsbaer. I doubt you are going to see a difference in temps. Though you may not like the quick fitting it has a very good flow rate and will work with any G1/4 fitting. This however is what makes PCs so personally satisfying, you can do whatever tickles your fancy.

 

[lorry]

I am confused as to why you are replacing the pump/res/block unit from the EIsbaer. I doubt you are going to see a difference in temps. Though you may not like the quick fitting it has a very good flow rate and will work with any G1/4 fitting. This however is what makes PCs so personally satisfying, you can do whatever tickles your fancy.

I know that a D5 is the better pump and to put it simply I was able to pick up a brand-new one at a ridiculously cheap price (about 1/4 of list price, from a friend who has more money than sense at times!), also some but not all compression fittings.
So why not? Sure it will cost me more, but look what I end up with.

 

[Kapone33]

I know that a D5 is the better pump and to put it simply I was able to pick up a brand-new one at a ridiculously cheap price (about 1/4 of list price, from a friend who has more money than sense at times!), also some but not all compression fittings.
So why not? Sure it will cost me more, but look what I end up with.

I know what you mean, for me personally I actually love the quick connects. I have 2 Eisstations, the XPX Pro TR4 waterblock and 2 EIswolf GPU blocks using 2 420MM rads, all using the quick connects. I am going to get a single slot block for one of my GPUs though. I got a new board (Asus X399 Zenith Extreme) with a x4 slot and am thinking of putting my Revodrive3 in that slot. I am seriously contemplating using that as my boot drive and having nothing but NAND based storage.

 

[lorry]

I know what you mean, for me personally I actually love the quick connects. I have 2 Eisstations, the XPX Pro TR4 waterblock and 2 EIswolf GPU blocks using 2 420MM rads, all using the quick connects. I am going to get a single slot block for one of my GPUs though. I got a new board (Asus X399 Zenith Extreme) with a x4 slot and am thinking of putting my Revodrive3 in that slot. I am seriously contemplating using that as my boot drive and having nothing but NAND based storage.

Quite some setup there.

 

[moproblems99]

Plasticizer? What's that please?

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1380775-what-plasticizer.html#/topics/1380775

Keep in mind, that thread is from 2013. Things are going to be different now. That said, I used several tubings that were supposed to be plasticizer problem free and I still had problems.

Also, with regards to compression fittings, you can't use them on all tubing...like the zmt I am using.

 

[Kapone33]

Quite some setup there.

Thanks, it is a labour of love for PC.

 

[lorry]

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1380775-what-plasticizer.html#/topics/1380775

Keep in mind, that thread is from 2013. Things are going to be different now. That said, I used several tubings that were supposed to be plasticizer problem free and I still had problems.

Also, with regards to compression fittings, you can't use them on all tubing...like the zmt I am using.

I did some searching but not as in depth as that report, thanks.
Having said that, are there any specific tubing that folk go for?
I've had a quick look and it seems that XSPC FLX 3/8" ID 1/2" OD 13/10mm DEHP Free Tubing seems good, as does Corsair Hydro X Series, XT Softline, 10/13 mm, am I right?
Any other makes, brands?

 

[Dinnercore]

I use Mayhems ultra-clear but they tend to become less clear over time and end up a bit opaque. So I can´t really recommend them 100%.

 

[lorry]

I use Mayhems ultra-clear but they tend to become less clear over time and end up a bit opaque. So I can´t really recommend them 100%.

I'm sure that they need renewing, but how often, roughly I mean?

 

[moproblems99]

I did some searching but not as in depth as that report, thanks.
Having said that, are there any specific tubing that folk go for?
I've had a quick look and it seems that XSPC FLX 3/8" ID 1/2" OD 13/10mm DEHP Free Tubing seems good, as does Corsair Hydro X Series, XT Softline, 10/13 mm, am I right?
Any other makes, brands?

My initial kit was xspc tubing which also has the plasticizer problems. That said, that was almost 10 years ago and probably not the same tubing you are looking at.

I just use distilled water for my coolant so I don't care what the tubing looks like.

 

[lorry]

My initial kit was xspc tubing which also has the plasticizer problems. That said, that was almost 10 years ago and probably not the same tubing you are looking at.

I just use distilled water for my coolant so I don't care what the tubing looks like.

The XSPC that I saw stated that it was DEH free. I am considering using distilled ( heh wish I still worked at the labs, we used to make gallons of glass distilled every day), but with anti corrosive and growth agents in it of some kind?

 

[Dinnercore]

Oh I dont renew them at all, I´m a lazy person. I dont even flush my loops only when the temps start rising I´d look at it.

I use a mix of destilled water with ~ 22% car coolant added to protect from corrosion and avoid any bio growth. I just sold my previous rig and build a new one, but the old one was running for 15 months without maintenance and it was fine.

If you go with just destilled water, add something to prevent bacteria or algea growth.

Currently my rig looks like this:


Besides the insanity of the loop, this is 16/10 Mayhems ultra-clear with the mixed coolant which has a slightly blue color. Notice how on one tube the GPU backplate is visible very well? This is with the new tubing. I can show you in a couple of weeks how it looks after some time.

 

[xtreemchaos]

as long as you not mixing your metals like alloy rad copper cold plate and have some good distilled water you don't need anything else.

 

[lorry]

Oh I dont renew them at all, I´m a lazy person. I dont even flush my loops only when the temps start rising I´d look at it.

I use a mix of destilled water with ~ 22% car coolant added to protect from corrosion and avoid any bio growth. I just sold my previous rig and build a new one, but the old one was running for 15 months without maintenance and it was fine.

If you go with just destilled water, add something to prevent bacteria or algea growth.

Currently my rig looks like this:


Besides the insanity of the loop, this is 16/10 Mayhems ultra-clear with the mixed coolant which has a slightly blue color. Notice how on one tube the GPU backplate is visible very well? This is with the new tubing. I can show you in a couple of weeks how it looks after some time.

Spaghetti Junction!

as long as you not mixing your metals like alloy rad copper cold plate and have some good distilled water you don't need anything else.

Nah, copper or brass parts, well apart from what the inside of a D5 is made of these days?