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PC Refuses To Boot Again 1 Month After Reinstalling Windows

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So around this time last year my PC was constantly throwing out BSODs under heavy load. After days of troubleshooting with nothing working I finally just had to reinstall Windows. Since then I have switched out most of the hardware in my PC. Around the start of April, my PC again began spitting out BSODs maybe once a day or so, even when it was idle. In fact it seemed more common at idle. They were also a different BSOD almost every time. Again after days of troubleshooting with nothing working I had to reinstall Windows. And now again I'm getting the same issue, random BSODs, around once a day, usually when the PC is idle. And today I wake up to the PC again refusing to boot into anything other than safe mode. What on earth could be going on?!
 
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Upload the BSOD dump files (.dmp).

 
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Regeneration

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OS files and registry got corrupted due to memory instability.

You can try to restore with Windows installation media (startup repair or just reinstall) or recovery console (SFC or DISM in command prompt).

But it will happen again and again until you find a way to stabilize the memory configuration.

If it can't be done since the OS is messed up, you can use MemTest86 or bootable Linpack Xtreme (set problemsize to 42789).
 
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Benchmark Scores I once clocked a Celeron-300A to 564MHz on an Abit BE6 and it scored over 9000.
Are you running your RAM at XMP? Try it at bone-stock 2133 JEDEC timings.

Also, what BIOS version is your x570 on? AGESA updates have made significant changes to RAM compatibility since the platform launch.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
Mostly at idle... is the pc going into hibernation? Or just idle at a desktop?

Have you tried to add a bit of vcore or try setting it manually? Same with memory controller voltage (soc).

Is your bios updated to the latest?
 
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Are you running your RAM at XMP? Try it at bone-stock 2133 JEDEC timings.

Also, what BIOS version is your x570 on? AGESA updates have made significant changes to RAM compatibility since the platform launch.
Tried running without XMP and Windows refuses to boot that way also.
Mostly at idle... is the pc going into hibernation? Or just idle at a desktop?

Have you tried to add a bit of vcore or try setting it manually? Same with memory controller voltage (soc).

Is your bios updated to the latest?
At idle but not in hibernation, just normally running but with nothing being done on it, though it may as well just be luck though it never crashed during gaming, editing, etc., but it's still something I've noticed that could helped.
The vcore and memory controller voltages are at stock, what should I increase them to?

And yes the BIOS is up-to-date.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
The vcore and memory controller voltages are at stock, what should I increase them to?
More voltage than stock. Offhand I'm not sure what that is... but try adding 0.05 to both.

Maybe it's the storage? Have you run any SMART diagnostics on it?
 
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More voltage than stock. Offhand I'm not sure what that is... but try adding 0.05 to both.

Maybe it's the storage? Have you run any SMART diagnostics on it?
Yeah ran them all through Crystaldiskmark and they all came back OK.
 
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Benchmark Scores I once clocked a Celeron-300A to 564MHz on an Abit BE6 and it scored over 9000.
If the problems happen more at idle than under load, I'd be tempted to look at a manual all-core overclock of 0.1% (as close to stock as you can make it) just to disable all the power-saving and PBO dymamic clock/voltage options.

If that actually works and returns your PC to stability you have narrowed down your problem to power states which makes troubleshooting much easier.

Step one in troubleshooting is to narrow your scope. At the moment, although there are some likely suspects, the scope is still potentially the whole system. You've gotta elminate certain things by ruling them out.
 

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I still find that AMD still has issues with the 3000MHz memory speed.

I'd try turning it down one notch to 2933, you won't notice the difference anyway.
 
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CDM is a benchmark... I dont think it reads SMART data.

Try Hard Drive Sentinel..
Ok so I downloaded it and that shows my drive as also completely fine.

If the problems happen more at idle than under load, I'd be tempted to look at a manual all-core overclock of 0.1% (as close to stock as you can make it) just to disable all the power-saving and PBO dymamic clock/voltage options.

If that actually works and returns your PC to stability you have narrowed down your problem to power states which makes troubleshooting much easier.

Step one in troubleshooting is to narrow your scope. At the moment, although there are some likely suspects, the scope is still potentially the whole system. You've gotta elminate certain things by ruling them out.
So how exactly would I do that? Never overclocked this CPU before.
 
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Benchmark Scores I once clocked a Celeron-300A to 564MHz on an Abit BE6 and it scored over 9000.
I'm not a fan of manual overclocking as PBO on AMD and Intel Speedstep are features best left on.

Probably best to find a guide specific to your motherboard, as the terms and steps vary a lot by vendor. I have built machines using the x570 Aorus Elite, but I haven't tried all-core overclocking so I'm not comfortable giving you instructions.

Your goal should be not to overclock - just to lock your CPU at a fixed frequency to rule out all the dynamic jumping up and down of voltage states and clockspeeds. I'd settle on something moderate like a 4GHz all-core manual clock (40x multiplier).

I haven't done more than skim-read that guide, but that'll give you the settings you need.

  • You want to multiplier clock only. Don't futz with the bus clock.
  • We're not trying to reach a high overclock, just go with a high safe voltage - 1.325 should be all you need.
  • Auto FLCK divider should be 1:1 with your RAM but if necessary set it manually to whatever speed you know your DDR4 worked with beforehand. 2133 JEDEC timings really ought to work on DDR4-3000 but you might want to manualy set the voltage to whatever the XMP spec is - probably 1.35V

If that's bootable, and rock-solid you have made some progress :)
If that's still a fail all you've lost is 15 minutes of your time in exchange for a learning experience.
 
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Since then I have switched out most of the hardware in my PC.
Without knowing what hardware you switched out, that really doesn't help us. Did you swap power supplies? Motherboard? RAM?
 
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Without knowing what hardware you switched out, that really doesn't help us. Did you swap power supplies? Motherboard? RAM?
The only things that stayed the same are my 2 HDDs and my graphics card.
I'm not a fan of manual overclocking as PBO on AMD and Intel Speedstep are features best left on.

Probably best to find a guide specific to your motherboard, as the terms and steps vary a lot by vendor. I have built machines using the x570 Aorus Elite, but I haven't tried all-core overclocking so I'm not comfortable giving you instructions.

Your goal should be not to overclock - just to lock your CPU at a fixed frequency to rule out all the dynamic jumping up and down of voltage states and clockspeeds. I'd settle on something moderate like a 4GHz all-core manual clock (40x multiplier).

I haven't done more than skim-read that guide, but that'll give you the settings you need.

  • You want to multiplier clock only. Don't futz with the bus clock.
  • We're not trying to reach a high overclock, just go with a high safe voltage - 1.325 should be all you need.
  • Auto FLCK divider should be 1:1 with your RAM but if necessary set it manually to whatever speed you know your DDR4 worked with beforehand. 2133 JEDEC timings really ought to work on DDR4-3000 but you might want to manualy set the voltage to whatever the XMP spec is - probably 1.35V

If that's bootable, and rock-solid you have made some progress :)
If that's still a fail all you've lost is 15 minutes of your time in exchange for a learning experience.
Ok so I tried following those instructions and Windows still won't boot. It's just stuck forever on the spinning loading circle at the boot up.
 
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I agree with @Regeneration that the most likely culprit is the RAM.

Don't try anything else until you've verified the memory is or is not a problem. One step at a time. The more settings you change at once, the more likely you are to introduce other problems.

Bump up the RAM voltage to something like 1.375v and run MemTest86 from a bootable USB flash drive.

If the memory test fails, the RAM is the problem. It probably isn't bad (so you won't be able to RMA it), it's just not compatible with your CPU. Try to exchange it for something like Crucial Ballistix, which seems to have solid Ryzen compatibility.
If the test passes, repair/reinstall Windows and see if it's stable. If not, then try some of the other suggestions here.
 
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what RAM that you use? have you tried resetting your bios and run it by using single RAM? just to check

i agree many cases are related to RAM, so it's better start from that
 
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I am using Vengeance LPX @ 3000mhz... hope it remains stable.
 
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what RAM that you use? have you tried resetting your bios and run it by using single RAM? just to check

i agree many cases are related to RAM, so it's better start from that
I use the Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz CL15. I tried updating BIOS but the app for it doesn't work in safe mode so gonna try and do BIOS flashback when I have a moment. I also tried running it with 1, 2, and 4 sticks and neither worked.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
Flash the BIOS from the BIOS...not Windows. That is how you should do it in the first place.

But I'm confused, you said you are at the latest version....
And yes the BIOS is up-to-date.
...why are you flashing again (and not following the other instructions?). My suggestion is to focus on one thing at at time... you're all over the map (per usual).


Side note: Your OS is borked, period. Overclocking and changing voltages will not help with that. You need to repair windows or reinstall... THEN tweak your voltages, etc. If it works in safe mode, then it is something low level OS/driver related that is corrupted.
 
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Benchmark Scores I once clocked a Celeron-300A to 564MHz on an Abit BE6 and it scored over 9000.
I suspect your Windows install is gone at this point, regardless of whether you get your hardware stable again it's not going to boot properly any more no matter what.
Step 1 - confirm hardware is stable, Step 2 repair/reinstall windows on stable hardware.
run MemTest86 from a bootable USB flash drive.
And if it fails, repeat the test at 2133 1.35V
 
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I agree with @Regeneration that the most likely culprit is the RAM.

Don't try anything else until you've verified the memory is or is not a problem. One step at a time. The more settings you change at once, the more likely you are to introduce other problems.

Bump up the RAM voltage to something like 1.375v and run MemTest86 from a bootable USB flash drive.

If the memory test fails, the RAM is the problem. It probably isn't bad (so you won't be able to RMA it), it's just not compatible with your CPU. Try to exchange it for something like Crucial Ballistix, which seems to have solid Ryzen compatibility.
If the test passes, repair/reinstall Windows and see if it's stable. If not, then try some of the other suggestions here.
So I made a bootable contest USB, booted into it, and I just get this message.
 

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