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Your PC ATM

MxPhenom 216 said:
Yes, BIOS. Just need to know what specific CPU fan header you connected it to then set it in BIOS. Pretty easy.

You dont need to set a pump on a curve, it literally doesnt provide any benefit. just set it to whatever duty cycle produces the quietest acoustics. I run at 60% (3000rpm) all the time on mine.
Click to expand...

Basically i have set it to 45% upto 70c then 100%
 
Tigger said:
Not quite finished yet, but love the look. Not sure about controlling a PWM D5 though as the other one was a vario.

Anything i need to change as it's a PWM pump now?
Click to expand...

I am just gonna say it- I am glad I am not the only one who uses zip ties. lol. I'd hit up an auto parts store for some black small ones to blend in with the tubing.
 
Unicorn vomit?

2C7C7C2C-C362-496B-AC10-E6E35643ED2B.jpeg
 
Tigger said:
Zips do the job imo. Will get black ones tomorrow, just used what i had left :p
Click to expand...
Why not use some velcro?? So much nicer than zip ties... I'd be worried about cutting the cables when you need to move them and so on.. Heck, even cable twisties would be better :)
 
phill said:
Why not use some velcro?? So much nicer than zip ties... I'd be worried about cutting the cables when you need to move them and so on.. Heck, even cable twisties would be better :)
Click to expand...

Velcro wouldn't be tight enough. The new EK clear tubing i have is really tight on the barbs, but still put zips on to be sure. Right that is IT now, i am gonna "try" to leave it alone for a while.
IMG_0179.JPG
IMG_0180.JPG
 
Nothing fancy, but does the job for me.

IMG_0118.JPEG
IMG_0119.JPEG
 
Tigger said:
Basically i have set it to 45% upto 70c then 100%
Click to expand...

I get that, but im saying you can just run it at a constant duty cycle. Pumps dont need to respond to temperature changes really. Only time a pumps speed is going to effect temps at all is if it dies and its literally not running or if it doesnt have enough head pressure to force water through the loop. you could literally run it at 45% constant and wont notice a damn bit of difference vs 100%.
 
I did today a little bit funny things with the AiO and the A8 3800, room temp was 23°C
Stock Clock: with full load it reaches via Core Temp 33°C, then i used a infrared thermometer it told me the IHS temp was 31°C.
3,8 GHz: 45°C via Core Temp, infrared thermometer IHS 43°C

Stock Cooler, with stock Clocks: 82°C
 
MxPhenom 216 said:
I get that, but im saying you can just run it at a constant duty cycle. Pumps dont need to respond to temperature changes really. Only time a pumps speed is going to effect temps at all is if it dies and its literally not running or if it doesnt have enough head pressure to force water through the loop. you could literally run it at 45% constant and wont notice a damn bit of difference vs 100%.
Click to expand...

Ok i will get it running constant
 
MxPhenom 216 said:
I get that, but im saying you can just run it at a constant duty cycle. Pumps dont need to respond to temperature changes really. Only time a pumps speed is going to effect temps at all is if it dies and its literally not running or if it doesnt have enough head pressure to force water through the loop. you could literally run it at 45% constant and wont notice a damn bit of difference vs 100%.
Click to expand...
I don't agree with your opinion there's no difference, it's fine constant but will carry away more heat if flowing twice as fast surely , and I have tried low speed pumps, heat saturation is hit quicker and in extreme cases overheats occurred, now I except more noise.

Though I suppose I run load 24/7, a typical gaming load etc isn't such a power hog and would be fine.

But regardless a pump like a fan will have a sweatspot, I would aim for that rather than guestimate a set level usually between 60/70%
 
80-watt Hamster said:
Are these what you mean?

View attachment 231398
Click to expand...
Exactly like that or similar too :)
Tigger said:
Velcro wouldn't be tight enough. The new EK clear tubing i have is really tight on the barbs, but still put zips on to be sure. Right that is IT now, i am gonna "try" to leave it alone for a while.
View attachment 231403View attachment 231404
Click to expand...
I must be roughing it then as I don't have anything on my tubing/barbs at all. Just use a 1/2" barb with 7/16 tubing over the top and job is done :)

IMG_20220106_184802.jpg


I need to give my rig a clean, good job I will hopefully be able to get it upgraded soon...... :)
 
phill said:
Exactly like that or similar too :)

I must be roughing it then as I don't have anything on my tubing/barbs at all. Just use a 1/2" barb with 7/16 tubing over the top and job is done :)

View attachment 231429

I need to give my rig a clean, good job I will hopefully be able to get it upgraded soon...... :)
Click to expand...

My tubing is 15.9 OD/9.5 ID barbs are these, 3/8" ID Tubing (10mm ID) G1/4" Thread, would i get away with no clips? the tubing is tight on the barbs.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-g1-4-to-3-8-barb-fitting-black-chrome-wc-100-xs.html
tubing
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-duraclear-tubing-16-10-clear-3m-wc-9dc-ek.html
 
phill said:
Exactly like that or similar too :)

I must be roughing it then as I don't have anything on my tubing/barbs at all. Just use a 1/2" barb with 7/16 tubing over the top and job is done :)

View attachment 231429

I need to give my rig a clean, good job I will hopefully be able to get it upgraded soon...... :)
Click to expand...
You are, my buddy did that and one day he came home and one came apart with all the coolant all over his system. killed every component.
 
nologin666 said:
Hi there :)
What is the display you are using?

Thank You,
Click to expand...
Hey!

I am using a 55" Hisense TV :)

I am sitting on my couch, and typing from my coffee table

The real living room is upstairs, I am in the basement.. my space for when I just want to chill.. the kids and wife are upstairs.

My computer to AVR, AVR to TV, TV to my soul :D

Edit:

I had to sacrifice my desk to my children last year for remote learning.. And since remote learning is about to start again because they closed the schools again, I don't get my desk back :shadedshu:
 
MxPhenom 216 said:
You are, my buddy did that and one day he came home and one came apart with all the coolant all over his system. killed every component.
Click to expand...
What liquid was he using for the system?

I don't use anything that is conductive as a matter of course but I do just tend to use deionised water and then just different coloured tubing for the effect I'm after. Been water cooling for the last 10 years and a bit and I've never had any leaks with the tubing coming off. I have however had a leak because a slightly loose barb I hadn't tightened and I do remember that pouring water all over the board, GPU, and such, but that just carried on working. I was rather impressed with it to be honest!

I just dried it off the hardware and checked the barbs for being loose and powered it back up, worked fine and carried on for a few years afterward :)
Tigger said:
My tubing is 15.9 OD/9.5 ID barbs are these, 3/8" ID Tubing (10mm ID) G1/4" Thread, would i get away with no clips? the tubing is tight on the barbs.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-g1-4-to-3-8-barb-fitting-black-chrome-wc-100-xs.html
tubing
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-duraclear-tubing-16-10-clear-3m-wc-9dc-ek.html
Click to expand...
Well I would suggest something of the following to try. Grab a spare loop if possible and put it together so it could run away from the system with the hardware in it (one way I choose to test for leaks funnily enough!) and see.

Also when putting the tubing on the barb, I have a small cup of hot water to soften the tubing so when it cools down, it seems to clamp harder onto the barb. Been doing it this way for as long as I can remember, I've not had anything popping off the barbs or anything yet and touch wood, I leave these rigs on a lot of the time with our WCG Rosetta and FAH crunching teams :) All of my higher end systems are setup with water cooling this way. As long as the barbs are tight (but not overly tight in the block/pump/res etc.) I don't believe there should be a problem.

Have a play around with it, give it a test with an old PSU and any spare parts you might have for another loop and see how you go. Since you could run just the pump/res/rad and block together without it connecting to a system (I guess you'd be able to use the PSU trick so the PSU powers up but doesn't power the system on....) you'll soon see and find out if there's any problems. I stick with 1/2" barbs as they are a better flow rate and it saves having so many different sizes for the barbs, tubes and so on :)

Judging by the tubing and the barbs, I'd guesstimate that you'd be fine, but again, try before you do anything with hardware inside or connected too it :) As I mentioned to @MxPhenom 216 I only use deionised water so there shouldn't be any issues with conductivity if things do go sideways... Always a personal choice but I've not lost any hardware with it yet :) Plus it doesn't stain the tubing which is always handy if you'd like to re-use the tubing :)
 
freeagent said:
Hey!

I am using a 55" Hisense TV :)

I am sitting on my couch, and typing from my coffee table

The real living room is upstairs, I am in the basement.. my space for when I just want to chill.. the kids and wife are upstairs.

My computer to AVR, AVR to TV, TV to my soul :D

Edit:

I had to sacrifice my desk to my children last year for remote learning.. And since remote learning is about to start again because they closed the schools again, I don't get my desk back :shadedshu:
Click to expand...
Nice :)
I was with 49'' 4K until few days ago, but my Mom come to visit so I had to hand it over to her for a week or so... :) Now it's kinda strange on 24'' FHD.
What about the display from the picture with telemetry? I am struggling with 5'' 800x480 and AIDA64 plus custom gauges pics from AIDAs forums, but it's kinda hard to look at it if it is mounted inside of the case, too small letters and numbers....

Cheers,
 

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  • IMG_20220107_005008.jpg
    IMG_20220107_005008.jpg
    4.3 MB · Views: 83
phill said:
What liquid was he using for the system?

I don't use anything that is conductive as a matter of course but I do just tend to use deionised water and then just different coloured tubing for the effect I'm after. Been water cooling for the last 10 years and a bit and I've never had any leaks with the tubing coming off. I have however had a leak because a slightly loose barb I hadn't tightened and I do remember that pouring water all over the board, GPU, and such, but that just carried on working. I was rather impressed with it to be honest!

I just dried it off the hardware and checked the barbs for being loose and powered it back up, worked fine and carried on for a few years afterward :)

Well I would suggest something of the following to try. Grab a spare loop if possible and put it together so it could run away from the system with the hardware in it (one way I choose to test for leaks funnily enough!) and see.

Also when putting the tubing on the barb, I have a small cup of hot water to soften the tubing so when it cools down, it seems to clamp harder onto the barb. Been doing it this way for as long as I can remember, I've not had anything popping off the barbs or anything yet and touch wood, I leave these rigs on a lot of the time with our WCG Rosetta and FAH crunching teams :) All of my higher end systems are setup with water cooling this way. As long as the barbs are tight (but not overly tight in the block/pump/res etc.) I don't believe there should be a problem.

Have a play around with it, give it a test with an old PSU and any spare parts you might have for another loop and see how you go. Since you could run just the pump/res/rad and block together without it connecting to a system (I guess you'd be able to use the PSU trick so the PSU powers up but doesn't power the system on....) you'll soon see and find out if there's any problems. I stick with 1/2" barbs as they are a better flow rate and it saves having so many different sizes for the barbs, tubes and so on :)

Judging by the tubing and the barbs, I'd guesstimate that you'd be fine, but again, try before you do anything with hardware inside or connected too it :) As I mentioned to @MxPhenom 216 I only use deionised water so there shouldn't be any issues with conductivity if things do go sideways... Always a personal choice but I've not lost any hardware with it yet :) Plus it doesn't stain the tubing which is always handy if you'd like to re-use the tubing :)
Click to expand...

Thx, i am only using deionised water, with 50ml of 50/50 premix car coolant in it, for corrosion protection. The tubing was very hard to push onto the barbs, forgot the hot water thing DOH. It does look cleaner with no clips too. I might grab some 1/2" barbs tbh, as i have a fair bit of this tubing left, with hot water it would be hella tight on the barbs.
 
nologin666 said:
Nice :)
I was with 49'' 4K until few days ago, but my Mom come to visit so I had to hand it over to her for a week or so... :) Now it's kinda strange on 24'' FHD.
What about the display from the picture with telemetry? I am struggling with 5'' 800x480 and AIDA64 plus custom gauges pics from AIDAs forums, but it's kinda hard to look at it if it is mounted inside of the case, too small letters and numbers....

Cheers,
Click to expand...
Nice!

Its just a 1080p TV.. kind of a bummer, but at least I can get a new one for about what I paid for this thing.. I was thinking on getting a bigger one, but really.. I should just get glasses :)

1.PNG
 
nologin666 said:
Nice :)
I was with 49'' 4K until few days ago, but my Mom come to visit so I had to hand it over to her for a week or so... :) Now it's kinda strange on 24'' FHD.
What about the display from the picture with telemetry? I am struggling with 5'' 800x480 and AIDA64 plus custom gauges pics from AIDAs forums, but it's kinda hard to look at it if it is mounted inside of the case, too small letters and numbers....

Cheers,
Click to expand...

I'm using a EE tablet for my aida display. The resolution is 1080p though.
Untitled.jpg
 
The Apu is to cold, after i open the window :laugh:
1641537318314.png
 
Right last bit of adjustment (i hope). Remounted the pump plate flat on the side instead of on the mount plates. Initially i thought the D5 was too deep to fit inside the space behind, but it fits fine. I think it looks a lot better now, should have at least tried it when i got it but assumed it would be too big. Also turned CPU block so the black part matches the black part on the Res/pump. Shortened the CPU block to top rad pipe to so it drains better. Overall much better. Next I'm gonna get fancy ATX 24 pin and PCIe power cables. I hate the Corsair standard ATX cable with the ugly bit of tube on it.

IMG_0186.JPG
 
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