i7 13700k Getting 100º at Gaming

[GerKNG]

A dark rock 4 is not even remotely suitable.
At least one of the top 3 highest end air coolers or a 280+ AIO

 

[FZ1]

I originally had a Corsair H100i (240mm) cooler for my i13700 on an Asus z790 board and it ran at the same temps as yours under load.

I replaced the stock 1700 socket retaining clip/spring thing with a contact frame and got myself an EK Nucleus CR 360mm cooler. This combo dropped the temps by 20-25 degrees c and I've had no problems since.

Not cheap, but very effective and no more worries about thermal throttling

 

[phanbuey]

did u take the plastic off the bottom of the cooler?

 

[AusWolf]

It should be quick, i've ordered that Contact Frame from Amazon, and should arrive tomorrow or Saturday.

For the thermal paste, how you suggest to apply? I was thinking in two lines along the CPU, or a big one on the middle.

It shouldn't matter much as long as it covers the whole contract between CPU and cooler.

I don't think the contract frame is gonna help as long as you don't replace the DR4 with something more suitable, or decrease your power limit, but let's hope that I'm wrong.

 

[Gwenved]

And why not using a watercooling solution?? that solves a lot of problems, it's better than an air cooling solution and it's not so expensive...

 

[pressing on]

And why not using a watercooling solution?? that solves a lot of problems, it's better than an air cooling solution and it's not so expensive...

The Fractal Define S2 is not so good when it comes to fitting an AIO. In theory one could be mounted at the top but motherboard overhang is a potential issues. Front mounted is then the only option. This case came as standard with a solid top. An alternative filtered ventilated top was also supplied. Going the front mounted AIO route would give the opportunity of fitting the ventilated top and redeploying the displaced front intake fans as top exhaust fans.

A possible alternative if the existing CPU air cooler has to be kept would be to replace the solid top with the ventilated one. Move the rear exhaust to the front so there are three front intake fans. Buy two high speed 140mm fans such as the Be Quiet 1600 rpm units. Use one as the rear exhaust and the other in the rear top position. This would at least remove a lot of the heated air around the CPU and might be enough to get core temps below the 95C currently being seen.

 

[warriorunited]

Another round of testings:

I've ended up not getting the Contact Frame and decided to just repaste and mount the cooler again, it improved only a little bit, nothing that much significant actually.

Now, i went to BIOS and disabled again asus performance enhancement 3.0, on this option: "Actual VRM Core Voltage" changed to offset, and then on "Offset mode sign" changed to "-" (negative).

Results playing BF 2042 again:

It still reaches 100º, still high power draw, the only difference is that it doesn't always stay on 100º, it goes to lows 90º sometimes, but must of time stays 95-100º.

Since i don't really want to invest right now on a new cooler, because i love my pc how it is (very silent!) and AIO coolers are always noisier than Air Coolers, i have two options:

- Undervolt the CPU, and i need help on this
- Just leave it like this, ignore, and play ignoring all this and have fun.

 

[JustBenching]

Another round of testings:

I've ended up not getting the Contact Frame and decided to just repaste and mount the cooler again, it improved only a little bit, nothing that much significant actually.

Now, i went to BIOS and disabled again asus performance enhancement 3.0, on this option: "Actual VRM Core Voltage" changed to offset, and then on "Offset mode sign" changed to "-" (negative).

Results playing BF 2042 again:

View attachment 298865

It still reaches 100º, still high power draw, the only difference is that it doesn't always stay on 100º, it goes to lows 90º sometimes, but must of time stays 95-100º.

Since i don't really want to invest right now on a new cooler, because i love my pc how it is (very silent!) and AIO coolers are always noisier than Air Coolers, i have two options:

- Undervolt the CPU, and i need help on this
- Just leave it like this, ignore, and play ignoring all this and have fun.

How the heck does it draw up to 240w in gaming? That's the thing you should try to fix, not the cooler. The cooler isn't the problem. I have a 12900k and max power draw in the heaviest game right now (tlou) at 720p with a 4090 is 110 watts.

 

[P4-630]

Another round of testings:

I've ended up not getting the Contact Frame and decided to just repaste and mount the cooler again, it improved only a little bit, nothing that much significant actually.

Now, i went to BIOS and disabled again asus performance enhancement 3.0, on this option: "Actual VRM Core Voltage" changed to offset, and then on "Offset mode sign" changed to "-" (negative).

Results playing BF 2042 again:

View attachment 298865

It still reaches 100º, still high power draw, the only difference is that it doesn't always stay on 100º, it goes to lows 90º sometimes, but must of time stays 95-100º.

Since i don't really want to invest right now on a new cooler, because i love my pc how it is (very silent!) and AIO coolers are always noisier than Air Coolers, i have two options:

- Undervolt the CPU, and i need help on this
- Just leave it like this, ignore, and play ignoring all this and have fun.

Something isn't right, still...
There may be something wrong with the mounting or CPU IHS / Base of CPU cooler.

I know it's not the best cooler but I think it should perform better than it does now.

@fevgatos is on to something, in gaming it should draw around 90W

With rendering, yeah it goes up

 

[AusWolf]

AIO coolers are always noisier than Air Coolers

Who told you this load of rubbish? Liquid cooling was invented specifically for higher performance with lower nose. You can run your fans at much lower rpm when you're on water. I'm actually running my AIO with zero rpm passive mode when the CPU is idle.

 

[Outback Bronze]

CPU is getting 1.546v

This is what I'm seeing too. VCORE 1.510v and VID (Max) 1.530 in HWMonitor.

Go to your CPU Core/Cache Voltage in bios settings and manually change it to 1.3v and see what that does. It should significantly reduce temps under load.

 

[P4-630]

So his board is at default feeding the CPU way too much voltage, never seen it this bad of all my intel systems I had...

 

[warriorunited]

This is what I'm seeing too. VCORE 1.510v and VID (Max) 1.530 in HWMonitor.

Go to your CPU Core/Cache Voltage in bios settings and manually change it to 1.3v and see what that does. It should significantly reduce temps under load.

View attachment 298866

I don't have that option... My motherboard doesn't seem to let change that much stuff, here's a picture of my BIOS settings:

 

[Outback Bronze]

Actual VRM Core Voltage

Change it from Auto to Manual then change the voltage to 1.3v

 

[FZ1]

I use Intel's XTU for playing about with voltages on my 13700. Before getting a decent cooler and the contact frame, I got a good result with under-volting the CPU at 1.2v

Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility (Intel® XTU)

The Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility (Intel® XTU) is used to overclock, monitor, and stress a system. This application is supported with unlocked processors (K- and X-series) only. Refer to “This download is valid for the product(s) listed below” section for supported processors list. WARNING...

www.intel.com

 

[P4-630]

@warriorunited what are your results after adjusting the voltage?

 

[warriorunited]

Actual VRM Core Voltage

Change it from Auto to Manual then change the voltage to 1.3v

Can't, the motherboard doesn't allow... I got three option: Auto, Manual and Offset, and this is all i can do in each mode:

Manual:

Offset:

@warriorunited what are your results after adjusting the voltage?

See above.

 

[Macro Device]

It made me laugh that several people borderline accused the OP of not removing the plastic.

It's OBVIOUS the CPU is overfed. It's more than twice the wattage it should've been. OP should try going <1.2 V (even if that means losing some frequency) in order to make their TDP a reasonable value.

I'd start with 1.175 V with something about 4.6 or perhaps 4.7 GHz on P-cores and later try setting the clock higher if possible. If you consider losing performance a no go, it's about 1.255 V you should set I guess.

 

[chrcoluk]

Another round of testings:

I've ended up not getting the Contact Frame and decided to just repaste and mount the cooler again, it improved only a little bit, nothing that much significant actually.

Now, i went to BIOS and disabled again asus performance enhancement 3.0, on this option: "Actual VRM Core Voltage" changed to offset, and then on "Offset mode sign" changed to "-" (negative).

Results playing BF 2042 again:

View attachment 298865

It still reaches 100º, still high power draw, the only difference is that it doesn't always stay on 100º, it goes to lows 90º sometimes, but must of time stays 95-100º.

Since i don't really want to invest right now on a new cooler, because i love my pc how it is (very silent!) and AIO coolers are always noisier than Air Coolers, i have two options:

- Undervolt the CPU, and i need help on this
- Just leave it like this, ignore, and play ignoring all this and have fun.

Why you gaming at 200w cpu power usage, never seen a my cpu go above more than around 50w when playing games, you at encoding levels of consumption there.

 

[AnotherReader]

Perhaps you should try lowering PL1 and PL2 to values your cooling can handle.

 

[#22]

Don't want to read all of the topic, but a thought crossed my mind looking at title. Once I've built pc with Dark Rock Pro 4 cooling 12900 and this cooler just sucked like never before. Even with CPU powerlimited to 200W which it used to cool without problems, this thing was hitting 100C in Cinebench in less than ten secounds. It was cooling 150W the same as it used to cool 200W before (and before-1700 CPUs seemed harder to cool). In the same scenario my own representing lower-tier performance Scythe Ninja 5 with it's fans running 800 rpm is able to sit closer to 90C when dealing with locked on 220W 13900K. No, I didn't mount DRP4 wrong or anything like that and after I've seen few reports of dissapointing performance of Dark Rocks on 1700, so I suspect bq! just have screwed 1700 mounting kit and the best man can do is return this garbage (and btw Dark Rock 4 non-Pro was never worth buying).

 

[warriorunited]

It made me laugh that several people borderline accused the OP of not removing the plastic.

It's OBVIOUS the CPU is overfed. It's more than twice the wattage it should've been. OP should try going <1.2 V (even if that means losing some frequency) in order to make their TDP a reasonable value.

I'd start with 1.175 V with something about 4.6 or perhaps 4.7 GHz on P-cores and later try setting the clock higher if possible. If you consider losing performance a no go, it's about 1.255 V you should set I guess.

How can i do that? The motherboard doesn't seem to allow doing it...

 

[#22]

Isn't that non-Z boards not allowing to undervolt? I haven't had opportunity to check, but have seen people saying so.

 

[Macro Device]

How can i do that?

Wish I knew, kid.

I will investigate later but I hope someone points it out earlier than I do.

 

[AusWolf]

Can't, the motherboard doesn't allow... I got three option: Auto, Manual and Offset, and this is all i can do in each mode:

Manual:

View attachment 298879


Offset:

View attachment 298880



See above.

Selecting "manual" opened another setting just right under it called "core voltage override". Just put 1.3, or whatever others have suggested there.