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i7 13700k Getting 100º at Gaming

Well, false alarm... I had everything on default EXCEPT the PL2 set at 200, and as soon as I unlocked it 4059 default motherboard value it jumped back to 100 at cinebench almost instantly again
 
What game are you playing that wants to consume more than 200 watts?

On my 13700k, even when I have everything dialed and if my noctua keeps temps in check, my daily config will be pl2 capped, for efficiency sake.

Do you need whatever extra performance the 4059 might be giving you? I am guessing you playing at some uncapped really high frame rates?
 
Something is seriously wrong. Did you install the fan on the cooler? (I don't know what the product looks like right out of the box). Whether it's set up as push or pull doesn't matter but make sure its fully mated to the cooler. Also what did you connect that fan to? Make sure it's on CPU_FAN on the motherboard. When you installed the CPU you made sure that the socket protected was removed, the black cover thing should of popped off when you installed the latching arm down to lock in the CPU. The bottom on the cooler also has like a protective foil that should of been removed. When installing the cooler, make sure you also follow the proper instructions to your socket type, the provide documentation that says what bracket and backplate to use, also when tightening those screws in opposites corners from each other and you tighten to them pretty good, they will stop. Also just do it lightly, like, don't fully tighten one corner and move to the next one. repeat over and over until you hit the stops.
 
Well, false alarm... I had everything on default EXCEPT the PL2 set at 200, and as soon as I unlocked it 4059 default motherboard value it jumped back to 100 at cinebench almost instantly again
That's fine though, if at 200w you were hitting 80c on cinebench then your cooler works great. How much wattage does it draw when you unlock the power limit? Cause if it hits 250+ then getting up to 100c is to be expected.
 
That's fine though, if at 200w you were hitting 80c on cinebench then your cooler works great. How much wattage does it draw when you unlock the power limit? Cause if it hits 250+ then getting up to 100c is to be expected.

Hmm you're right, when I unlock it it reaches around 260~270w. Maybe if I just limit PL1 to 125 and PL2 at 253 will do the job without losing any significant performance?
 
"Long Duration Package Power Limit (P1) defines the maximum wattage the CPU is allowed to run when under sustained loads."

Basically PL1 is the normal turbo and PL2 is a "short" turbo defined by a time set in the BIOS. Older Intel CPUs, P1 & P2 was different. 12 & 13 they are the same by default. PL2 was 56 seconds before, but if you set both states the same, it becomes "unlimited" boosting to that specified wattage. If P1=125 P2=200, that CPU will always draw 200 under load or until it reaches 100c. After which, it will drop to 125watts under load.

Can your cooling handle 200 wants for a minute?
 
Can your cooling handle 200 wants for a minute?

Yes, the previous page (yesterday) I shared my latest result with my new cooler and contact frame, it was 200w running at 78-80c sustained.
 
Yes, the previous page (yesterday) I shared my latest result with my new cooler and contact frame, it was 200w running at 78-80c sustained.
You’re leaving some performance on the table at 80c. Whether the extra power draw is worth it to you is another matter.

I’d suggest setting both at 225w and see how it goes. Or even 225w and 200w.

With a 13900k I’m set at 253w and 225w. I see power drop after about a minute to 225w while remaining under 100c.

I can do single runs of R23 (even back to back) at 300w without any thermal throttling (peaks of 95-97c) with a Noctua NH-D15. It’s somewhat pointless though as there’s only about 1000 points difference between 300w and 253w.

For gaming, the only time I see greater than 150w is during building shaders at the beginning of a game. For the games I play, CPU power the majority of the time is between 50-125w.
 
Hmm you're right, when I unlock it it reaches around 260~270w. Maybe if I just limit PL1 to 125 and PL2 at 253 will do the job without losing any significant performance?
Yes, just do that. You won't notice a difference in performance.
 
So, what you guys really suggest? :D

- PL1/PL2 set 125/253w
- PL1/PL2 set 225/225w
- PL1/PL2 set 225/200w
I would say 225/225 since you said your cooler has no problems handling 200W. For gaming however this won't make a difference anyway:

power-per-game.png
 
Some more fun to this thread:

I've recently got a Asus Z790-F Strix Motherboard to replace my B660-F STIX and a new thermal paste: Artic MX-6, the cooler and CPU are the same (Noctua NH-U12A Chromax and 13700K)

I've built everything and ended up returning the motherboard because of two issues:
- I was having random ethernet disconnects, even after BIOS and Drivers updates and fix around the web, and didn't solve
- I had to place the second fan of the cooler positioned way higher because of the VRM heatsink plastic being to high/bulky... Bad Asus design.

So after building and using the new thermal paste and mobo, I ended up testing the temps, with everything on stock (full power) and i was getting around 95º and from one moment to another, the CPU was hitting 100º and thermal throttling.

After returning the motherboard, i've ended up building the PC again with the old motherboard, i was so pissed that i didn't even care about cleaning and apply thermal paste again, i just installed everything again just like it was and guess what? Now the CPU at BIOS full power settings, doesn't even pass 92º max lool.

Does this makes any sense? Computers... :confused:
 
Ok will re-type my deleted post as thought interest died.

If the vcore and/or VID is high, doing a bios upgrade might work, as on my board the first RL bios had whacked AC/DC defaults which overvolted the CPU, otherwise a case of undervolting, as these chips seem to be undervolt friendly, I found undervolting the cache more profitable vs undervolting the core.

@warriorunited I am guessing different stock voltages, it deffo seems variable across vendors and bios revisions, also possibly between different SKU's as well.
 
Some more fun to this thread:

I've recently got a Asus Z790-F Strix Motherboard to replace my B660-F STIX and a new thermal paste: Artic MX-6, the cooler and CPU are the same (Noctua NH-U12A Chromax and 13700K)

I've built everything and ended up returning the motherboard because of two issues:
- I was having random ethernet disconnects, even after BIOS and Drivers updates and fix around the web, and didn't solve
- I had to place the second fan of the cooler positioned way higher because of the VRM heatsink plastic being to high/bulky... Bad Asus design.

So after building and using the new thermal paste and mobo, I ended up testing the temps, with everything on stock (full power) and i was getting around 95º and from one moment to another, the CPU was hitting 100º and thermal throttling.

After returning the motherboard, i've ended up building the PC again with the old motherboard, i was so pissed that i didn't even care about cleaning and apply thermal paste again, i just installed everything again just like it was and guess what? Now the CPU at BIOS full power settings, doesn't even pass 92º max lool.

Does this makes any sense? Computers... :confused:
Maybe the thermal compound was not genuine or not applied properly (even too much thermal compound can hinder heat transfer as its just meant to fill up the gaps between two metal contacts) which led to inadequate heat transfer from the IHS to the heatsink. Try using a different thermal compound maybe? I once received a fake arctic mx-5 from amazon.
 
all BIOS default settings at full power
did it also overvolt your cpu way too much again like before?

Don't think the contact frame does much, tried it with a u12a both on a 12900k and a 13900k, the difference was negligible. Im not even sure there was a difference, maybe 2-3c, basically random variance.
how tight have you bolted it down?
 
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