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Copper Shims on Chipset

I am curious as to what it there stock?
Stock was a thermal pad named "K7 thermal Pad" in MSI website. So I replaced it with; Thermal grizzly, Arctic and Gelid Extreme with no change in results.

x570s vs x570 are the exact same chips. Only difference is the variation of cooling designs. Some brands made better (like Gigabyte), some others not.

Why use screws when you can do it simply with 3m VHB, that fan doesn't weigh anything...
After a while the HS will be a dusty, sticky surface and I literally hate that.
 
Stock was a thermal pad named "K7 thermal Pad" in MSI website. So I replaced it with; Thermal grizzly, Arctic and Gelid Extreme with no change in results.

x570s vs x570 are the exact same chips. Only difference is the variation of cooling designs. Some brands made better (like Gigabyte), some others not.


After a while the HS will be a dusty, sticky surface and I literally hate that.
Yeah there was no change in the chip just moved from active fan to passive cooling like I said mine definitely runs cooler passive than my one that was active
My MSI X570S Torpedo Max under normal usage under load is usually 56-58. Also running a NVME in the second slot uses it so that raised the temp too I have a 2TB Gen 4 Corsair Core MP600 on it which I use as my main game drive, so it's always gonna be working a bit harder because of it.
 
Yeah there was no change in the chip just moved from active fan to passive cooling like I said mine definitely runs cooler passive than my one that was active
My MSI X570S Torpedo Max under normal usage under load is usually 56-58. Also running a NVME in the second slot uses it so that raised the temp too I have a 2TB Gen 4 Corsair Core MP600 on it which I use as my main game drive, so it's always gonna be working a bit harder because of it.
Yes second nvme drives definitely affects the heat increase, also the windows power plan directly and significantly affects the temperature of x570.
 
After a while the HS will be a dusty, sticky surface and I literally hate that.
Than you ain't doing it right, cut the VHB tape in shape of fan on places where it can stick to (the triangle corners and the center) , cut off the rest.

I have used VHB tape to stick 120mm fans on CPU heatsinks, on GPU heatsinks and to stick fans on RAM sticks, no issues.
 
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Than you ain't doing it right, cut the VHB tape in shape of fan on places where it can stick to (the triangle corners and the center) , cut off the rest.

I have used VHB tape to stick 120mm fans on CPU heatsinks, on GPU heatsinks and to stick fans on RAM sticks, no issues.
Do you happen to have any photos of your handiwork?
 
Do you happen to have any photos of your handiwork?

Probably but don't know where atm, I used it in the past, If needed I'd use VHB tape again.

"Rain, sun, wind, heat or cold, 3M™VHB™ Tape is weather-proven to stand the test of time.
3MVHBTape can take the heat. With short-term temperature resistance up to 450ºF"
 
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Now the question is, which fan type should I choose for the chipset?

1688364765130.jpeg


1688364771557.jpeg

1688364779264.jpeg
 
i would choose the smallest motor so 2nd or 3rd pic
 
i would choose the smallest motor so 2nd or 3rd pic
Dimensions are likely the same. Differences are the wing tilt angle.
In other words, Pressure optimized, or high velocity fan?
 
if we are talking about the 40mm wide +10mm thick ones both should have around 8-9 cfm.
get the pwm version so you can choose from 1500tpm to 5000
first one motor is too big- i think thats for small server push troughs.
 
Now the question is, which fan type should I choose for the chipset?

View attachment 303364
I can tell you the first motor at full speed is still pretty darn quiet it's amazing but perhaps overkill. I used that model to cool my ssd at one point.

Thank you for your support!
Another option is "Z" shaped metal. One end is to be attached on the case the other end is to be on the fan. Since the weight of the fan is very low, only one screw would be enough.

View attachment 303283
If you get a thinner metal flat piece you can customize your bends.
 
Screw to fasten a mini fan...

Make it difficult when it can be so much easier... :D

GL.
 
:oops:
I recently had to swap back to my 3600 in my Tuf X570-plus; used the opportunity as an excuse to change cases to the Fractal Design Focus G White I'd bought 2years prior.

Spent all day carefully, cleaning and inspecting parts, replacing fans, running wiring, then got tired-out. (there may have been some legal inebriants involved, towards the end of the rebuild)
When I got to the final cards being installed and plugged into power, I just said 'fuggit!' and left the wires wherever they'd stay put.
'She definitely runs cooler and quieter now, though. So, worth the (3/4-arsed) effort :laugh:




Agreed.
Also, the direction of airflow to/from into/out-of the CPU HSF can influence VRM and mobo temps.
I finally gave into positive-pressure gang and put the rear 12cm fan (normally exhaust) as intake, and its helped quite a bit. (my case has dual 14cm exhaust fans in the top, dual 14cm intake in front)
Well I ordered Asus Rog Riser cable. Will give feedback when arrives.
1688418172214.jpeg


I also order the small but speedy Noctua fan directly from Austria.

1688489103409.png



Ps. My main motivation is "not" fixing the unbroken. I just wanted to make some DIY practices.
 
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Just don't overthink it....

GL.
 
Which I totally agree but can't restrain myself doing this kind of stuff
At least give us some pictures of your MacGyver craftmanship please. :)
 
At least give us some pictures of your MacGyver craftmanship please. :)
Actually there will be a very limited handwork. I'll mount gpu vertically, place a noctua fan, and change the thermal pad with a copper shim. I try not to think all of them is for lowering 5 degrees Celsius :)
 
Don't do anything to the chipset. The X570s is meant to run without a fan which makes it run at higher temperatures. I also believe that cooling the chipset has no benefit to performance.
 
Don't do anything to the chipset. The X570s is meant to run without a fan which makes it run at higher temperatures. I also believe that cooling the chipset has no benefit to performance.
They know. While we think what they're doing is a stupid waste of time, they're aware that we think that, and they've decided to do it anyway. So there's not much to do but sit back and watch.
 
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Actually there will be a very limited handwork. I'll mount gpu vertically, place a noctua fan, and change the thermal pad with a copper shim. I try not to think all of them is for lowering 5 degrees Celsius :)
I’m just surprised yours gets so hot? My lower end MSI X570S actually impresses me how much “cooler” it runs than my previous X570 with a fan. I swear mines never gone over 60C and if you look up my case you will understand absolutely that I’m very limited in my airflow because of the dated design of my case. On the flip side of that I don‘t have any serious temp issues despite the case. My GPU is getting hot than I’d like but it‘s just the GPU I’ve never had temp issues with the last at least half dozen GPUs I’ve used in this case.
Why I get a good chuckle out of cases with “a dozen” fans when I manage to do it fine with 2 1#0s and a couple secondary 92mm that really do nothing to help with my overall temps. My last 2 board I was able to use a thermoister I hung in the middle of my case and my cases ambient temps would never get higher than 40 on the hottest of days.
 
The Gpu riser, which is being required for the first step of my plan, has arrived. After one hour of ordinary usage, the PCH temp peaked up to 50 degree Celsius which looks promising by now. Now, I'm waiting for the Noctua fan to arrive.
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Latest news: In game temperatures are considerably lower, only set back is, the GPU fans are actually help to cool down the chipset in horizontal placement. After the vertical attachment, these GPU fans won't help the chipset (as expected) temperatures.
After noctua fan arrives, things may dramatically change in a way that I was so desperately longed for.
 
As Noctua fan is being prepared for the shipment, I attached an arctic fan next to x570s seen below to see how well it could response. The results are mindboggling with no/or very little change in the temperatures, even at the max rpm (1500).

1688754518096.jpeg
 
As Noctua fan is being prepared for the shipment, I attached an arctic fan next to x570s seen below to see how well it could response. The results are mindboggling with no/or very little change in the temperatures, even at the max rpm (1500).

View attachment 303874
Not really mind boggling. You've just confirmed what's been mentioned already:
The heatsink for that X570S board, is at its limits.
(or, you're sucking warm air from the GPU's back onto the chipset. Try a laptop's fan? Or, try to set your lil noctua when it arrives to 'blow across' the heatsink, instead of 'ontop' of it.)

Considering you have already DRASTICALLY dropped temps by moving the GPU, and have a front intake fan blowing by the chipset, I think you've already reached the end of your journey
(but, were not left 'empty handed')

I still don't blame you for trying. Used to do the same w/ my GPUs back in AGP days. (Tho TBF, on my X800 GTO, it made big OCing improvements.)

If you want to 'go further' for personal-enrichment, go for it! But, you'll be looking at trying to find (or have made/make) a ULP Copper Heatsink.
 
On a P31 Gigabyte Board I've used this one in the past:

Screenshot 2023-07-07 205028.png
 
There are quite a few oldskool chipset coolers floating around eBay, and it's not improbable for an end-user to modify a single-slot GPU cooler or 1U ULP CPU heatsink to fit.
On a P31 Gigabyte Board I've used this one in the past:

View attachment 303876
Since he's gotten the GPU out of the way, the previous-suggestion(s) for using an 'old' chipset cooler would probably work, now.


Personally, I'd be looking for something like this (a sub 1U Ultra-Low-Profile 'mobile socket' ULV-server/embedded Cu CPU cooler)
1688756604766.png

and just drilling the pattern for mounting*, and re-use the screws from the factory heatsink.
*the old heatsink w/ its screws removed should be usable as the 'pattern', and even a 'drill guide' if one was precise and patient.
 
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