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RATIONAL custom loop for 14900K and 4080S

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May 24, 2023
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Ok, so I guess it is really happening, I got a hose and water and other stuff:

parts.jpg

I plan to make a simple loop in Fractal Define 7 XL case:

FCL7xl_loop1.png

... on these premises:

1) Use cheap stuff, no unreasonable and unnecessary parts - I can reuse some case fans, can mix my own cooling fluid, can use ordinary hose, etc.

2) NO RGB!!!, nobody could see it anyway, I have a case without a window (and I am proud of it). I already broke off the RGB sh*t from the reservoir, it was stuck there with glue!

3) Shortest loop possible

4) Smoothest loop possible
- no unnecessary bends, no right angle fittings, all changes in direction managed by hose itself, all to minimise water flow restrictions

5) Heat goes up: hoses from heat producing parts should run upwards.

6) Flexible hose not only because of the low cost, but also because it does not transfer any mechanical stress from one part to another.

I already have one concern: the slits for water flow in the graphic card block seem to be pretty narrow, I am not sure if I will not be forced to redo the loop to run the CPU and graphic card blocks in paralel, which would ruin some of the goals I wrote above.
 
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Doesn't matter the order of the loop, just that your inlet and outlets of the blocks are correct (if they are directional).
 
Jesus, it does not start well, I just checked flatness of the CPU block with my ink method, and it is not only bulging badly (which will not work well with my bulging CPU at all), but it is also a first block I have seen, that has a spike on it. Great.
 
Jesus, it does not start well, I just checked flatness of the CPU block with my ink method, and it is not only bulging badly (which will not work well with my bulging CPU at all), but it is also a first block I have seen, that has a spike on it. Great.

Some blocks have a jet plate in to make them bulge slighlty.
 
Most blocks are concaves in the middle because IHS is as well.
 
Most blocks are concaves in the middle because IHS is as well.

Most i have had have been slightly bulged out, even the new alphacool core 1 i beleive
 
2x 240mm standard thickness rads from what I can see is kind of anemic for a 14900K and a 4080.

Doesn't matter the order of the loop
It does matter, the outlet of a rad has to be cooler than the inlet otherwise the heat transfer wouldn't be possible so the first component that gets the outlet of the rad will receive cooler water. If you can help it I'd always have it so that the GPU gets the return from all the rads in succession but if this isn't practical it's not something worth worrying about.
 
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I love it. Once you get your feet wet with this you'll be water cooling everything in the house!

What are you using for fittings? I do recommend barbs and zip ties over soft compression fittings.
 
It is alive!

The old setup with 4070:

DSC_1756 - kopie (2).JPG

The wet GPU upgrade:

DSC_1764 - kopie.JPG

DSC_1768 - kopie - kopie.JPG

I let it run for a while with 250W GPU and 70W CPU load and the intake of the rad felt like 40°C, that is 20°C over ambient., that is probably not good.

Those are 280 rads, not 240. I think I probably should add another fans to the top rad and exchange fractal case fans from the front rad for P14 fans too.

It seems it will not be silent.... :(
 
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I used a pair of 280 rads for a while, and they are not that bad.
 
Ok, so I've done some tests for you (finally got some time) and this is @ 5.8GHz all P cores no HT or E's with 4080 @ 75% PL.

Hogwarts fresh boot up 6:35am
HogwartsLegacy_2024_02_08_06_35_21_234.jpg

8:01am
HogwartsLegacy_2024_02_08_08_01_22_765.jpg

I'm only using one 280/50mm with two corsair 140ML's in Pull only. System only has 3 fans. You can see its just a small 80mm at the back.

Edit: Fans on low.

IMG_9842.JPG

IMG_9844.JPG

And Ambient

IMG_9847.JPG
 
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Hi,
2 rads will take a while to get all the air out
Just leave the pump at 100% and tilt it every which way and bop it a few times every once in a while
Let it run all night and repeat tilting....
 
It does matter, the outlet of a rad has to be cooler than the inlet otherwise the heat transfer wouldn't be possible so the first component that gets the outlet of the rad will receive cooler water. If you can help it I'd always have it so that the GPU gets the return from all the rads in succession but if this isn't practical it's not something worth worrying about.
It does not matter the order of the loop. I'll repeat again. It does not matter. This myth has been disproven countless times. Unless you have a nearly zero flow the difference between going from rad > CPU > GPU or rad > CPU > Rad > GPU is 2-3c at most.

Now if you put it in the wrong hole on the block, that can be a difference. Some are bidirectional, others clearly have a port marked as inlet. Still that isn't tied to the loop order.
 
It does not matter the order of the loop. I'll repeat again. It does not matter. This myth has been disproven countless times. Unless you have a nearly zero flow the difference between going from rad > CPU > GPU or rad > CPU > Rad > GPU is 2-3c at most.

Now if you put it in the wrong hole on the block, that can be a difference. Some are bidirectional, others clearly have a port marked as inlet. Still that isn't tied to the loop order.
I 2nd this.... Have had water-cooling several times over the last 15 years or so..... it all equalizes and hits a steady state.
 
Now if you put it in the wrong hole on the block, that can be a difference.

Doesn't seem to make a difference here. The in is out and the out is in. Pic supplied. Didn't want to invert the block. Wanted to see the EK sign. Did a little bit of research and most of the time its fine. I think even my GPU block is the same, it's just the way I did my loop to not cross over the hardline.

IMG_9848.JPG

Some are bidirectional

Must be in my case, but I've done them multiple times and never had a heat issue.
 
It does matter, the outlet of a rad has to be cooler than the inlet otherwise the heat transfer wouldn't be possible so the first component that gets the outlet of the rad will receive cooler water. If you can help it I'd always have it so that the GPU gets the return from all the rads in succession but if this isn't practical it's not something worth worrying about.
If there's a measurable temperature differential across different points in your loop, then your flow rate is way too low. (The differential is there, but it will be so small you can't measure it and thus it has no practical impact.)

At a proper flow rate, the order of parts makes no significant difference.

3) Shortest loop possible
Short runs might sound nice, right up to the point you need to make some changes in your rig... Then you're faced with disassembling your loop to get the work done. When instead, if you'd left some slack in the lines, you could have just moved stuff out of the way.

Frankly, a lot of the listed "goals" sound like over-optimization to me. You're likely to end up turning your pump down to half power anyways, why get obsessed with minimizing flow restriction when it's not a limiting factor?
 
Doesn't seem to make a difference here. The in is out and the out is in. Pic supplied. Didn't want to invert the block. Wanted to see the EK sign. Did a little bit of research and most of the time its fine. I think even my GPU block is the same, it's just the way I did my loop to not cross over the hardline.

View attachment 333685



Must be in my case, but I've done them multiple times and never had a heat issue.
Hi,
I wouldn't reverse on ek seeing they have a stainless steel jet plate that only has a narrow slot to disperse fluid from the center / side to side out
Then travels around to the outlet
Reversing would change the design way to much to where two flows would clash into this single jet plate slot
Whether temp would be different maybe a little flow might suffer a bit more.
Best if reversing I'd remove the jet plate clash.
 
If there's a measurable temperature differential across different points in your loop
There have to be, no matter how fast the flow is, that's how thermodynamics work.
 
I will add your older ek oops rgb velocity hehe looks to have a larger opening on the jet plate so probably why no real issues.
Guess ek made the buggers larger now days.
 
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Must be in my case, but I've done them multiple times and never had a heat issue.
Yeah usually even if the inlet is clearly marked you can go the opposite direction. If you take it apart some have a plate that directs the water in a certain pattern across the fins.

Honestly, I only noticed I had it backwards when I was pushing 320watts one day for VRM testing and temps looked a bit high. I noticed my quick connects was swapped. So it might just be for certain CPUs and or power usage that is becomes noticable.
 
I noticed lately you like to argue for the sake of argument. Technically you are right here, but we are taking about the big picture.
I already said it's worth considering caring about this only if it's practical but it does matter.
 
I noticed something interesting about the CPU block: it is a new revision now, it has different internals. The old one fired water in the middle of the base slots. Now the new version has a different water jet assembly in it, which splits incoming water and fires it from both sides of the slots and it exits in the middle.
 
Ok, so I've done some tests for you (finally got some time) and this is @ 5.8GHz all P cores no HT or E's with 4080 @ 75% PL.

Hogwarts fresh boot up 6:35am
View attachment 333679

8:01am
View attachment 333680

I'm only using one 280/50mm with two corsair 140ML's in Pull only. System only has 3 fans. You can see its just a small 80mm at the back.

Edit: Fans on low.

View attachment 333681

View attachment 333682

And Ambient

View attachment 333683
Well thank you, but I do not see the coolant temperature anywhere?
 
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