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RATIONAL custom loop for 14900K and 4080S

Did you clean out the radiators before using? Usually you have gunk in it from the factory.
 
BoggledBeagle said:
What the hell is this?! I looked inside the CPU block... :eek:

View attachment 335277

This block has a double function, is serves as a filter too!
Click to expand...
Hi,
Most good blocks do act like filters lol

But I agree radiators are filthy beasts and need a lot of cleaning
I "at the least" run some Dawn disk soap through them just a few drops go a long way cutting flux/ oil/ solder pieces away.
But you do need a way to catch the crap so good custom gas filters go a long way to and work good on 10mm inside diameter soft tubing
Spectre Clearview Premium Fuel Filter
 
I flushed just three of the four while measuring them, and just with normal tap water. Now I have also what appears to be greasy residue in the reservoir...
 
BoggledBeagle said:
I flushed just three of the four while measuring them, and just with normal tap water. Now I have also what appears to be greasy residue in the reservoir...
Click to expand...
Dawn disk soap will get rid of that stuff.
Good for getting oil off a duck hehe
 
Everything you clean should be rinsed with distilled water and I would advise against using any kind of soap, you do not want residues of anything left in there, just scrub it with a toothbrush or whatever until everything is clean.

Also I strongly advise you stick with clear fluids, despite what everyone claims all colored fluids will eventually start to gunk up your blocks, they are nothing but trouble.
 
Hi,
I clean all rads with dawn just a couple drops like this and flush over and over until all is clear.
Hell I did this one yesterday last run :cool:
Just shaking a rad does very little but shaking it like this does a lot.
Only issue is no filter is connected.

1708286588976.png
 
Wow, first serious mishap. I got an idea to flush the loop with distilled water, and I decided to heat it up so that is possibly better removes some unwanted residues. I heated it up to 60°C, and I forgot that with heat increases pressure. I wanted to drain the water warm... When I undid the hose from the graphic card - the computer got a little wet inside ... and the floor around.

The good thing is I noticed few specs of dirt in the water and the computer still works.
 
D5's max temp is like 65c I believe so not a good idea.
 
I heat up the loop when I leak test it as well with a blow dryer, it softness the tubes and allows you to tighten the fittings a little bit more, also if a tube was loose heating it up might cause it to pop off.
 
BoggledBeagle said:
These are PVC tubes? I believe than mine are too, they get softer with warmer water, they have maximal allowed temperature 60°C. I think that this may be a problem in some disaster scenarios.
Click to expand...
That's what they say pvc
You're getting close to d5 max so don't be surprised if your pump up and dies or triggers firmware safety features if it has any :eek:
 
I find it hard to believe the water did reach 60C, that's extremely high, a system under full load will have something like 40C water temp at most.
 
Vya Domus said:
I find it hard to believe the water did reach 60C, that's extremely high, a system under full load will have something like 40C water temp at most.
Click to expand...
Op heated it up on the stove I assume lol
 
Vya Domus said:
I find it hard to believe the water did reach 60C, that's extremely high, a system under full load will have something like 40C water temp at most.
Click to expand...
When you turn off fans on the rad, you can reach any temp you want... :D I heated it up with the graphic card, I was not even hitting 84°C with the hotspot.
 
You're crazy lol
 
REVISION 6

I removed the optical drive, moved a wall in the case, mounted the 420 rad on top as an air exhaust, used thicker 12/16mm tube and fittings for the main loop and swapped the 750W Seasonic Connect PSU for a normal 850W Seasonic I had available.

As you can see the CPU block is back connected parallel with the original 10/13mm tube. I am thinking about using just 8/11mm tube for the CPU to decrease the flow through this branch (and thus increase the flow through the video card).

rev6.jpg

The balance after loading it with 340W, fans are still pretty quiet:

REV 6 340w balance.png

BTW I learned that ethylene glycol has specific heat capacity 2400 compared to 4180 J/kgK of water. Using 20% solution worsened the heat capacity of the coolant to about 3800, that is not even 10% worse compared to pure water.

Looking at the picture, I think that using the thinner P420 rad would be better, the rad availability in our shops is not good at the moment though.
 
Last edited:
Due to not being able to sell my previous 4070 card for any reasonable amount of money and also curiosity about the upcoming RTX 5000 series, I disassembled this loop, returned the 4080 and I am back where I started.

It the process of cleaning the watercooling stuff and preparing it for storage I learned that the residue in the reservoir was impossible to clean with warm water and dishwashing soap. I needed to use technical alcohol for that. I also found that 100% technical alcohol may damage plastics. It was the alcohol in green bottle you get in DM stores.

I think that it was a flux from the radiators, it seemed to be similar to the traditional soldering rosin.

So my takeaway from this problem is to wash new radiators inside with 100% alcohol before use.
 
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