To distill or not distill what say ye?

[Endymio]

So here is something that irks me at possibly running my loop with distilled. I thought I read somewhere EK uses stainless steel for at least some of their jet plates (and mounting plates for larger blocks). The presence of mixing stainless steel would basically disqualify being able to run the loop with only distilled correct?

A lot depends on the grade of stainless steel. This gets technical fast, but a steel like grade SS 416 has an electronegativity much closer to copper than say, 316 grade. Also, there are other factors, such as:

-- the physical separation of the metals. If you've got a half meter of electrolyte between the two metals, they'll experience a lot less corrosion than if they're a mm apart.
-- the rate of passivation. Stainless is very good at self-passivation, that's why it's called "stainless" after all.
-- the ratio of the two metals. Steel is anodic compared to copper, so a large area of exposed stainless and a small amount of copper will corrode much slower than the reverse.

If you really wanted to "science it", I imagine you could intentionally add a small piece of aluminum to your loop. Al is anodic to both copper and steel, so it would act as a sacrificial anode and slowly dissolve away, protecting your other components in the process. I suspect over time this might cause some fouling, though, so it would require flushing on some sort of regular basis.

Secondly how would one know if their nickel is passivated?

Basically, you can't. But a good-quality nickel plating (i.e. without ferrous impurities) is virtually guaranteed to self-passivate anyway ... that's the entire reason nickel plating is done.

What do you have against a car antifreeze?

Others have raised the efficiency argument, which is a small but hardly negligible factor. To that I'd add that all antifreezes are not alike. Most of the modern antifreezes are OAT (organic acid based), which works well for steel and aluminum, but is monumentally bad for copper. For copper you want an azole compound or an silicate-based IAT. You used to be able to tell the difference by the color of the antifreeze, but now you have to actually read the label.

Everyone apparently has failed to understand any of the root causes.

It seems everyone on the thread but you has understood all the points very well.

 

[BoggledBeagle]

Others have raised the efficiency argument, which is a small but hardly negligible factor.

The very small decrease of specific heat capacity of water glycol mixture can be completelly negated by slighty increasing flow rate, which may bring a benefit of increased turbulence and improved heat transfer from the blocks.

To that I'd add that all antifreezes are not alike. Most of the modern antifreezes are OAT (organic acid based), which works well for steel and aluminum, but is monumentally bad for copper. For copper you want an azole compound or an silicate-based IAT. You used to be able to tell the difference by the color of the antifreeze, but now you have to actually read the label.

Since you mentioned this, I ran a standard G12+ pink antifreeze over bare BRASS fittings, which are mostly copper, with no visible effect. Is my antifreeze the bad one you are talking about? I can submerse a piece of pure copper in it to see what happens. I predict nothing.

 

[mama]

So...let's do some chemistry.

Water is H2O...right? Well, no. Water is a collection primarily of H2O, but it also has ions. Namely, H+ and OH- ions. Note that this is H+ + OH- = H2O neutral charge. In distilled water you lose all of the minerals which might form salts and the like, and those H+ ions are so light as to get the heck out of dodge if another H is anywhere nearby...so you wind up with the base form of distilled water being slightly acidic.

All of that is basic chemistry, right? Then you've got acid+ metal forming a metal oxide and a free hydrogen. In the case of copper mostly Cu2O, a black oxide. Of course, that is until the oxide reaches any sort of balance with dissolution in the liquid and its solubility. For CU2O that's functionally insoluble...which is why you hear so many anecdotal stories about people running good systems for years without a bunch of build-up on pure water.


So...what's the issue? One of two things.
1) Fouling layers
2) Metallic ion exchange

The fouling layer is easiest to understand. Basically, as fluids flow over surfaces they slow down the closer you get to them (and the faster you go). Your ceiling fan needs cleaned, despite spinning around, because the edge of the blade has a fouling layer while cutting through the air, and when the air slows down so much it dumps dust. Same thing in a liquid loop...and where does garbage accumulate? That's right, the fins that have a huge surface area for heat transfer which slows down the flow of the liquid.

Metallic ion exchange is fun. Not normal human fun, but science fun.
Metal reactivity chart
What does this mean? Well, have you ever seen those videos on youtube where somebody takes an aluminum can, sands off of the plastic outer layer, then takes a dropper of sodium hydroxide in aqueous solution and lets it rapidly eat through the aluminum to form a plastic balloon of soda? Yes, that is the highly reactive sodium (NaOH) rapidly converting the aluminum into aluminum salts and then repeating until the aluminum is in solution. The same thing happens with much less reactive metals...like copper. Kinda cool. What's worse is when hydrogen is more reactive than your metal...like say Nickel and Hydrogen. Almost like Nickel plating is absolutely beautiful and shiny...but the reason that you cannot touch it with your grubby fingers is a minimal liquid coating almost immediately corrodes the surface. Of course, if said oxide layer is constantly under water it's easy to not have an issue until you clean things out and that beautiful nickel plated block is tarnished by green-black NiO. Combine Nickel with anything more reactive, and the distilled water in your system suddenly corroded your metal.

Fun thing though, look at how we deal with this. Distilled water gets an alcohol, which is a hydrocarbon ending in a hydroxide group, and the balance of H+ and OH- changes. Less free ions, due to having multiple ionic bits trying to balance out, and you've got much less oxidation. Everybody here has already gotten onto the program with this because it's been known for centuries. If you want to research, look up buffer solutions. They're solutions where you have an acidic or basic water solution, which remains at that relative PH through the addition of salts. These salts exchange ions with the water, keeping a balance. Alcohols don't work the exact same way, but for a big dumb explanation it's close enough.



Lessons learned, Nickel plating is not a solution to corrosion. Building every component out of copper or aluminum would mean functionally no losses over years of exposure. People are stupid, because we want to combine metals and think that the chemistry is simple. The morale of the story is use the same material through the entire process, or include some antifreeze to stabilize the solution. Our German source here is not telling us the full truth because he's got a product to sell. That doesn't make him wrong, but it does mean a creative interpretation of reality to try and sell you his solution to your problems needs to be addressed and weighed. In this case, weighed against the bunk he's touting which anecdotally is the same silliness that people have been spouting for years because trying to explain chemistry is an uphill battle.

I think you are referring to demineralised water not distilled water.

 

[Endymio]

The very small decrease of specific heat capacity of water glycol mixture can be completelly negated by slighty increasing flow rate

Sure. But if you can increase the flow rate, you can for the pure water system as well, meaning the mix still loses on efficiency. The two variables are independent.

Since you mentioned this, I ran a standard G12+ pink antifreeze over bare BRASS fittings, which are mostly copper, with no visible effect. Is my antifreeze the bad one you are talking about?

I didn't mean to suggest the antifreeze would be harmful, merely that it's not very effective at protecting copper. You'd have to check the label to be sure; G12+ used to be OAT alone (not great for copper) whereas the newer G12++ is a hybrid that adds silicates (much better for copper). If you're sure you have no aluminum in your loop, try to find an older IAT-type coolant, which is mostly silicates.

I think you are referring to demineralised water not distilled water.

Distilling water removes the mineral content. There are other ways to do so; Type I lab grade "ultrapure" water uses multiple methods in succession, to remove not just minerals, but VOCs and other impurities.

 

[Chrispy_]

Late to the party but I use premixed motor coolant with antifreeze, the dirt-cheap silicate stuff.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/e...freeze-and-coolant-ready-mixed-5l-216235.html

...and yes, my loop is copper throughout with NPB fittings.

I built an Alphacool CPU+GPU loop during lockdown but as good as it was, waterblocking GPUs is a PITA and so now it's just a completely overkill CPU loop that takes up far too much room. I suspect when I migrate my home desktop storage over to an AM5 rig that's sat half-built in the corner, I'll just slap whatever I have lying around on it - probably a PA120 or the ID-cooling 360mm AIO if I can squeeze it in front of the 9070XT in the H5 Flow.

 

[ty_ger]

I'm maybe the third owner of my 3080 + its FC block and it had pretty much the plating gone when I opened it, it was never opened before (its seal was still untouched). Though as long as it doesn't affect performance, I don't care. Just looks ugly, but when it has the typical EK black acetal cover, I don't care about that.

All my blocks use clear tops. That's what I always buy so I don't have to take blocks apart to check their condition.

 

[Ruru]

All my blocks use clear tops. That's what I always buy so I don't have to take blocks apart to check their condition.

To be honest, I checked the block just out of curiousity, I know the dude who sold me the card and I know that he keeps good care of his hardware.

Just like as a kid, I liked to crack open all the devices just for pure interest

 

[ShrimpBrime]

To be honest, I checked the block just out of curiousity, I know the dude who sold me the card and I know that he keeps good care of his hardware.

Just like as a kid, I liked to crack open all the devices just for pure interest

You should see what copper looks like after a year of hard water running through it. I literally use a wire wheel brush on a Dremel to clean my block.

 

[razaron]

Oof. Gross.
Good luck to you!

Your loop is not all-copper. Copper, nickel, zinc, tin, and stainless steel at the bare minimum.

Are you sponsored by big coolant? Let me know how to get in on that, I could do with the money, my rent went up.

Wish I could afford tin over twice the price of copper

 

[ty_ger]

Are you sponsored by big coolant? Let me know how to get in on that, I could do with the money, my rent went up.

Wish I could afford tin over twice the price of copper

No, not at all.
I just know a ton of people had problems with using distilled water and silver kill coils.

You probably spent as much for a silver kill coil as a bottle of auto coolant, I would think.

Good luck to you!

 

[razaron]

No, not at all.
I just know a ton of people had problems with using distilled water and silver kill coils.

You probably spent as much for a silver kill coil as a bottle of auto coolant, I would think.

Good luck to you!

Sorry, I was being a douche since you're probably trolling.

Since you've now explicitly mentioned silver, which is definitely the most questionable part of my loop (which has been running for 10 years, refilling every 2 because I'm lazy), I'll be earnest.

In case any innocents come across this thread, here's a table of anodic indexes. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion#Anodic_index
The further apart the numbers, the better your battery. Note the difference between silver and aluminium, do not mix the 2. Unless your electricity bill is too high and you want a battery, of course.

Only get silver kill coils if you're sure they are >99.9%, you never plan on getting aluminium and don't pay more than £10 (they are literally just shavings).

In fact, never get aluminium. The index above shows how far aluminium and copper/brass are from each other. Even if your rad and block are aluminium, good luck finding fittings that you like the look of in aluminium. Copper/brass components are more common and cheaper, due to economies of scale.

I used to use biocide once upon a time but unless you're a high functioning individual who can guarantee they'll refill their loop every 6 months for the next 10 years, it won't end well. Green tubes will need replacing. Opaque liquids also need replacing (and parts cleaning) otherwise things get gunked up. My lazy ass doesn't want to cut fresh (transparent) tubes again, so distilled+copper+silver kill coil is what I settled on.

 

[ty_ger]

Sorry, I was being a douche since you're probably trolling.

Since you've now explicitly mentioned silver, which is definitely the most questionable part of my loop (which has been running for 10 years, refilling every 2 because I'm lazy), I'll be earnest.

In case any innocents come across this thread, here's a table of anodic indexes. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion#Anodic_index
The further apart the numbers, the better your battery. Note the difference between silver and aluminium, do not mix the 2. Unless your electricity bill is too high and you want a battery, of course.

Only get silver kill coils if you're sure they are >99.9%, you never plan on getting aluminium and don't pay more than £10 (they are literally just shavings).

In fact, never get aluminium. The index above shows how far aluminium and copper/brass are from each other. Even if your rad and block are aluminium, good luck finding fittings that you like the look of in aluminium. Copper/brass components are more common and cheaper, due to economies of scale.

I used to use biocide once upon a time but unless you're a high functioning individual who can guarantee they'll refill their loop every 6 months for the next 10 years, it won't end well. Green tubes will need replacing. Opaque liquids also need replacing (and parts cleaning) otherwise things get gunked up. My lazy ass doesn't want to cut fresh (transparent) tubes again, so distilled+copper+silver kill coil is what I settled on.

I don't know what point you are trying to make. A silver kill coil prevents biological growth. That's it. It doesn't prevent corrosion and instead may encourage corrosion. Automotive antifreeze prevents biological growth, corrosion, and protects against freezing when you move your computer in the back of the uhaul across country.
For the same price, you get tripple protection and a system that lasts longer looking better.
Who's trolling?

People keep defending bad practices for nonsense reasons.

 

[A Computer Guy]

Sorry, I was being a douche since you're probably trolling.

Since you've now explicitly mentioned silver, which is definitely the most questionable part of my loop (which has been running for 10 years, refilling every 2 because I'm lazy), I'll be earnest.

In case any innocents come across this thread, here's a table of anodic indexes. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion#Anodic_index
The further apart the numbers, the better your battery. Note the difference between silver and aluminium, do not mix the 2. Unless your electricity bill is too high and you want a battery, of course.

Only get silver kill coils if you're sure they are >99.9%, you never plan on getting aluminium and don't pay more than £10 (they are literally just shavings).

Per the wiki "...To reduce galvanic corrosion for metals stored in normal environments such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments, there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the anodic index of the two metals in contact."

Assuming this statement is correct that's cutting it pretty close according to the Anodic index. How does direct fluid contact influence this cautionary statement?

In fact, never get aluminium. The index above shows how far aluminium and copper/brass are from each other. Even if your rad and block are aluminium, good luck finding fittings that you like the look of in aluminium. Copper/brass components are more common and cheaper, due to economies of scale.

I used to use biocide once upon a time but unless you're a high functioning individual who can guarantee they'll refill their loop every 6 months for the next 10 years, it won't end well. Green tubes will need replacing. Opaque liquids also need replacing (and parts cleaning) otherwise things get gunked up. My lazy ass doesn't want to cut fresh (transparent) tubes again, so distilled+copper+silver kill coil is what I settled on.

I was reading somewhere with distilled you need to be careful not to use biocides with copper sulfates as it reacts with nickel.

I don't know what point you are trying to make. A silver kill coil prevents biological growth. Automotive antifreeze prevents biological growth, corossion, and protects against freezing when you move your computer in the back of the uhaul across country.
For the same price, you get tripple protection and a system that lasts longer looking better.
Who's a troll?

People keep defending bad practices for nonsense reasons.

Now come on. If your going to uhaul it across the country don't be lazy...drain that loop or risk a fluid leak from vibrating parts.

 

[ty_ger]

2000 miles in the middle of Winter over the Rockies, baby!

 

[A Computer Guy]

I don't know what point you are trying to make. A silver kill coil prevents biological growth. Automotive antifreeze prevents biological growth, corossion, and protects against freezing when you move your computer in the back of the uhaul across country.
For the same price, you get tripple protection and a system that lasts longer looking better.
Who's a troll?

People keep defending bad practices for nonsense reasons.

Well there is at least one good reason. Disposal. Used distilled can be released into the environment without worry. Antifreeze no-no.

- DP Ultra - Haven't found any disposal info on it yet. (edit) Found page 10 of 14
- EK Cryofuel it can be confusing... on one hand they say it's non-toxic and 90% biodegradable in 10 days, on the other hand see page 9 of 10
- XSPC Pure clearly states "Can be disposed via general household greywater waste"

 

[ShrimpBrime]

Well there is at least one good reason. Disposal. Used distilled can be released into the environment without worry. Antifreeze no-no.

- DP Ultra - Haven't found any disposal info on it yet. (edit) Found page 10 of 14
- EK Cryofuel it can be confusing... on one hand they say it's non-toxic and 90% biodegradable in 10 days, on the other hand see page 9 of 10
- XSPC Pure clearly states "Can be disposed via general household greywater waste"

Most coolant in cars is not recycled. Nearly all of it hits the ground at some point.

Same for refrigerant. R12 for example.
Every cooling system leaks.
Every hvac system leaks.

I asked my instructor the point of certs. Sodium you don't willing knowing put these chemicals into the ground or air.

My response is I'm guilty then. Because I know every system leaks at some point. Think of the thousands of vehicles I've worked on....


A fuel spill isn't a hazmat call unless there's 100 gallons in the ground. 50 gallons on dirt (in my area). We had such a spill, the fire department has chemicals to break these spills down and they wash it right down the drain.

Your few drops mean nothing from you little coolant loop.

 

[Thorfinnsson]

The video was quite well-made and interesting, but ultimately I agree with the commenters (many far more informed than I) who believe the video is misleading--perhaps deliberately so.

For der8auer, the video was certainly successful. It has gone about as viral as a video about PC water-cooling (a very niche topic) can go with over 87,000 views, and seemingly everyone is talking about it. Based on comments, most viewers seem to be persuaded. There are some areas of the video which strike me as being deliberately misleading (more on that latter), but I'm not sure what his monetary interest in that would be because he works for Thermal Grizzly, a company that does not sell coolant. Perhaps Thermal Grizzly and Aquacomputer have a relationship?

The basic theme of the video is to show CHEMICAL CORROSION while talking about GALVANIC CORROSION. These are not the same thing, full stop.

In the test a nickel-plated copper waterblock is submerged in distilled water. The container is left exposed to the atmosphere and heated to 60°C (140°F). From high school chemistry, we hopefully remember that heat speeds up chemical reactions. I am not a chemist, but I believe this would do two things for the test:

1. It would accelerate the formation of carbonic acid in the water, lowering its pH (making it more acidic) quickly
2. It would accelerate the acid-induced chemical corrosion of the submerged part

This test is not representative of conditions in a PC water-cooling loop. First, a PC water-cooling loop is a closed system and will have limited exposure to carbon dioxide and thus limited formation of carbonic acid. Second, the ΔT of the liquid cooling medium in most PC water-cooling systems is a few degrees over ambient temperature at most. Therefore the pH of the water is unlikely to drop far below neutral, and chemical corrosion will not be sped up by heat.

His chemical corrosion test also just showed that some copper gets deposited onto the nickel plate....not exactly a cause for concern, is it? Earlier he tries to scare people by noting that calcium hydrogen carbonate will deposit limestone onto surfaces, but of course this isn't present in distilled water and will not form in it from the ions or oxides it grabs from metals present in water-cooling loops (it is, however, an excellent reason not to use tap water).

Then we get to what investors call spreading FUD (fear, uncertainty, and doubt). The main way in which he spreads FUD is talking about galvanic corrosion, which is again something his test did not demonstrate. Galvanic corrosion is of course a legitimate concern and why so many posters here have talked about never mixing metals. der8auer doubles down on this FUD by suggesting (as some commenters here agreed with) that mixing metals in a water-cooling loop is inevitable by talking about brass fittings.

Here is where he gets really shady, and it's why I think he may be deliberately misleading his viewers. der8auer notes a couple of times that brass has zinc in it, and then he warns people that the electropotential of zinc is very different from copper. True enough, but brass is an ALLOY whose electropotential is known. In fact, the electropotential of brass is almost identical to copper!

der8auer clearly isn't stupid, and neither are the engineers at Thermal Grizzly. Do they really think that the electropotential of zinc itself as opposed to brass is relevant here?

He also brought up distro plates, suggesting that they may have stainless steel in them. There are many types of stainless (usually in consumer applications something known as 304 or 18-8 is used), and while this isn't nearly as different from copper and common cupric alloys as aluminum is, there is some difference.

Since he's German, here's a datasheet for an Alphacool distro: https://download.alphacool.com/data...ate_360_Left_with_VPP_Apex_pump_datasheet.pdf

No stainless steel. Appears to be plastic with chrome-plated brass fittings. But yes, maybe someone makes a stainless steel distro plate.

So to summarize this video der8auer:

1. Conducts a completely unrepresentative test that shows chemical corrosion
2. Suggests how this shows the dangers of galvanic corrosion
3. Misrepresents the galvanic corrosion potential in a typical PC water-cooling loop

I think that his video can be safely dismissed and that water-cooling enthusiasts who aren't mixing cupric and aluminum parts can continue using nothing but distilled water in their loops, especially if they sterilize (boiling works just fine) prior to assembly and fill.

Now...does this mean that you should ONLY use distilled water and that this is ALWAYS best? Not necessarily.

While looking into this, I found two articles that are over two decades old on Overclockers.com. They're still relevant today.

• PC Water Coolant Chemistry – Part I
• PC Water Coolant Chemistry – Part II

The first article deals with cooling relevant properties of water including:

• Viscosity
• Thermal Conductivity
• Specific Heat
• pH
• Conductivity

It also looks at different types of water and finds that regular distilled water from the grocery store is pretty good.

The second article deals with common additives to coolant loops such as:

• Corrosion inhibitors (and pH buffers)
• Surfactants
• Biocides
• Antifreeze

In the first article, the author observes that while "fresh" distilled water tends to have a relatively neutral pH that due to the absorption of carbon dioxide from the air it will over time become slightly acidic. He provides these figures:

The figures in the second table are ostensibly taken by testing the pH of liquid in an actual reservoir. Unfortunately time in the loop isn't given, but at any rate it does seem that distilled water in your cooling loop will become at least slightly acidic. The author notes that most coolants tend to become slightly acidic over time, and this is certainly true in the automotive world. Car mechanics will usually pH test your coolant and tell you that it's time to replace it once it becomes acidic.

While pH 6.22 water circulating at 25°C is not going to produce the chemical corrosion seen in der8auer's misleading video, perhaps it's doing something. Someone should empirically test this. If anyone reading has a pure distilled water cooling loop, please test the pH and report its value to us and the time that the water has been in your loop.

The author also makes the claim that an alkaline environment will retard the growth of biological organisms. In addition to not being a chemist, I am also not a biologist, but I think this claim is true.

This suggests that SODIUM CARBONATE (aka "washing soda") would make a good additive to distilled water. It is alkaline, soluble, cheap, and safe for humans.

Biocides have obvious value, but may not be necessary. Distilled water should not have biological organisms in it, nor should newly manufactured inorganic materials. You can further reduce risk by boiling the water and the loop parts. While those silver kill coils seem neat, they're probably not a great idea due to their electropotential. It's a pity everyone nickel plates now, because copper itself is actually quite biocidal. If you combine a carefully sterilized loop with an alkaline coolant, then biocide would appear to be superfluous. Still, it's unlikely to hurt and gives peace of mind, so not a bad idea..

Broad spectrum corrosion inhibitors like the benzotriazole present in DP Plus seem like a good idea, at least for some. If you fail to notice that your pH is dropping, or you don't really know what metals are in your loop, this will help you.

Antifreeze seems like a poor idea. The function of antifreeze is prevent coolant from freezing or boiling. PC water-cooling loops run near ambient temperature and neither are a risk. Ethylene glycol will increase the viscosity of the coolant and reduce its specific heat capacity. Thus you reduce cooling performance for no benefit. It is toxic and thus biocidal, but a more concentrated biocide would provide the same benefit without reducing coolant performance. If you're running a chiller and do need the antifreeze protection, methanol may be a better idea. It is even less viscous than water and has slightly higher specific heat capacity than ethylene glycol.

Most interesting to me is the idea of adding surfactants. I'll quote the author directly:

Surfactants (Surface Active Agents)​

Surfactants (also known as wetting agents) decrease water’s natural surface tension. High surface tension causes water to be attracted to itself, which is why water beads-up on a slick surface. Surfactants are used in PC water-cooling systems to promote better heat transfer. They do this in several ways:

First, by reducing the surface tension, water can better wet the inside surfaces of waterblocks and radiators (get down into all the little cracks and crevices), which potentially leads to better heat transfer. Second, reducing the surface tension also helps release numerous tiny air bubbles that build up and become trapped on internal surfaces (microscopic air bubbles block heat flow). Third, as we mentioned earlier, reducing the surface tension can lower the viscosity of water slightly.

Household soap and detergent products (like Dawn liquid dishwashing detergent) are surfactants but should only be used in very small amounts if added to your PC’s coolant system (~2 drops per gallon). These products generally contain other additives (emulsifiers, sudsing agents, perfumes, etc.) that are not beneficial for PC water-cooling applications.

There are many different kinds of surfactants. Soaps fall into one class of surfactants (anionic) made from animal fats and vegetable oils. Detergents on the other hand include several types of surfactants (anionic and nonionic) made primarily from petrochemicals.

Surfactants are organic molecules, composed of two parts. On one end is a carboxylate group (alkylated carboxylic acid) and on the other end is a long straight hydrocarbon chain. The carboxylate end is attracted to water. This is the (hydrophilic – water-loving) end. The hydrocarbon chain end is repelled by water (hydrophobic – water-hating) but is attracted to other molecules and surfaces.

When a surfactant is added to water, it acts as a “bridge”, which allows the water to fully wet or spread out along a surface that might otherwise repel the water molecules. It is this same wetting ability of soaps and detergents that allows water to attach and suspend oil and grease for cleaning.

So at least in theory the addition of surfactants can enhance the performance coolant. I'd like to see some empirical data on this along with a recommendation of what to use.

What have I learned?

1. der8auer is deceptive
2. Chemical corrosion is a minor issue and best dealt with by making your coolant slightly basic
3. Galvanic corrosion is an overblown problem if you don't put aluminum into your system
4. Some additives are at least in principle meritorious

I have never built a water-cooled PC and started to become very interested in the idea this year. So this has all been very interesting and informative to me. Thank you to everyone who posted in this thread!

 

[BoggledBeagle]

I thought the video was an add for the cooling fluid - only this single fluid tested beside the deionised water in a weird test.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

I thought the video was an add for the cooling fluid - only this single fluid tested beside the deionised water in a weird test.

All this about water cooling and I've pumped -43c Acetone through a loop once. I used Fuel line specifically. O-ring didn't make it after that. It has been replaced a few timed through the years XD.

 

[Chinese player Mr. Wang]

So this brings up another issue I've often pondered. Regardless if it's prepping a loop for the first time or trying to correct an issue of biological contamination, when needing to sterilize your loop what household agents are generally "safe" to use?

Luckily I've only had one issue with biological contamination since I started WC around 2016 and it was because of dumb mistake of using a non-sterilized container for a quick drain and refill on my NR200P build (RIP) and got a white bloom of growth for a short time before it seemed to stop that occurred in a relatively fresh batch of EK Cryofuel.

Biological white? Is it the kind of white pollutant in the post on my homepage? Could you please take a look at the post I made? Thank you.

 

[Jacky_BEL]

Nice informative post,

This suggests that SODIUM CARBONATE (aka "washing soda") would make a good additive to distilled water. It is alkaline, soluble, cheap, and safe for humans.

If there is aluminium in the loop then I think it may not be so good.
I am not talented in chemistry , but from experience sodium carbonate is not so nice to aluminium , but to be fair this is in high concentration conditions.

The sodium carbonate simply attacks the protective layer of Al2O3 that forms on aluminum in contact with air, allowing it to react with water.

What is your opinion?

 

[Shrek]

This suggests that SODIUM CARBONATE (aka "washing soda") would make a good additive to distilled water. It is alkaline, soluble, cheap, and safe for humans.

I would guess that any conducting electrolyte (acidic or alkaline) would not be a good idea.

 

[jaggerwild]

I run straight 50/50 Anti freeze, or pure(not like it will freeze). I also run a Phase change unit for fun….

 

[Shrek]

I'd pick weak anti-freeze to keep the specific heat up.

 

[Endymio]

I would guess that any conducting electrolyte (acidic or alkaline) would not be a good idea.

Sodium carbonate effectively passivates steel and iron, and sodium bicarbonate is often used in copper-containing water systems to reduce corrosion. As others have pointed out, though, these are poor choices for aluminum, as the metal's oxide layer is slightly acidic and reacts with these.