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Request for advice [Big Build]

And why that?

High efficiency PSUs matter at this scale, IMHO.

TPU's review of my Gold rated power supply rates it highly, 91.9% efficiency at the top of the efficiency curve. Add a few years of age to it, let's say that it's still converting at 90% efficiency at this point. With a 1 kW draw, it's gonna be chugging 1100 W from the wall - and at least speaking for myself, I'm on a 115 V outlet. Remember that large units also lose a massive amount of efficiency at low loads, at below 100 W my 1300 G2, when new, did barely 74% on TPU's review. Would not be surprised that now that its about 7 to 8 years old, with capacitor aging factored into it, it's degraded further. I myself need to buy a new PSU sometime, I haven't because this one is a very good design and it is still working well, so I chose not to bother.

Hope your breaker is good, outlet was installed correctly and that your cable isn't cheap :fear:
 
100% this ^^

There is no need for 48/64gb for gaming ATM. 32gb is more than enough!

My advice is take 32gb and use the money on better cooling, better PSU, better MoBo. Adding RAM in the future is the easiest thing to do, therefore the least of your worry RN.

On the other side, you'll cheap on a PSU only once and you'll never do it again for the reset of your life. Trust me, I did it.
Nonsense. There are plenty of games that will take advantage of more than 32 GB, especially because most people don't only have the game open. Besides this, 2*32 is dual rank, 2*16 is single rank for DDR5 and this has performance penalties. Since you're capped at 6200 MT for Zen anyway, you want to take advantage of performance where you can get it, and single rank higher MT potential is meaningless since you can't run that anyway.
 
Absolutely needs 64gb of ram and best psu you can afford. Either swing for the bleacher's with a rig like this or scale it back and get something practical. Somewhere in between won't satisfy either extreme.
 
High efficiency PSUs matter at this scale, IMHO.

TPU's review of my Gold rated power supply rates it highly, 91.9% efficiency at the top of the efficiency curve. Add a few years of age to it, let's say that it's still converting at 90% efficiency at this point. With a 1 kW draw, it's gonna be chugging 1100 W from the wall - and at least speaking for myself, I'm on a 115 V outlet. Remember that large units also lose a massive amount of efficiency at low loads, at below 100 W my 1300 G2, when new, did barely 74% on TPU's review. Would not be surprised that now that its about 7 to 8 years old, with capacitor aging factored into it, it's degraded further. I myself need to buy a new PSU sometime, I haven't because this one is a very good design and it is still working well, so I chose not to bother.

Hope your breaker is good, outlet was installed correctly and that your cable isn't cheap :fear:
That's a sound reasoning, I like that.

I think it really depend on how much you pay for power in your country and how big the difference in price is between a gold, a plat and a titanium. For me gold is the sweet spot. If you pay high price for power and price between gold and plat/titanium is not too big, plat/titanium could be worthy.

I would never pay 600$ for a titanium if I can get a good gold for 230$.

There are plenty of games that will take advantage of more than 32 GB, especially because most people don't only have the game open.
You say that many games take advantage of more than 32gb of RAM because you don't have only your game running. It's not the games that take advantage of more than 32gb of RAM, it's how you use your PC that take advantage of it.

Besides this, 2*32 is dual rank, 2*16 is single rank for DDR5 and this has performance penalties. Since you're capped at 6200 MT for Zen anyway, you want to take advantage of performance where you can get it, and single rank higher MT potential is meaningless since you can't run that anyway.
This is the nonsense. 8000MT run perfectly fine on my X870 board with a 9800X3D in it. Beside, 6000MT vs 8000MT is not that big of a difference for gaming. Same thing for SR and DR. 6000MT CL30 still is the sweet spot no matter if SR or DR.
 
You say that many games take advantage of more than 32gb of RAM because you don't have only your game running. It's not the games that take advantage of more than 32gb of RAM, it's how you use your PC that take advantage of it.
Tarkov and other sim games will readily take more than 32 GB of RAM, do your research.
This is the nonsense. 8000MT run perfectly fine on my X870 board with a 9800X3D in it. Beside, 6000MT vs 8000MT is not that big of a difference for gaming. Same thing for SR and DR. 6000MT CL30 still is the sweet spot no matter if SR or DR.
8000 for zero benefit, sometimes slower due to not in 1:1 and fewer ranks. Therefore it's meaningless, like I said.
 
again back on topic please!
 
The website told me it was too late to replace the power supply. I kind of suspected it ^^

So I'm going to buy a new one on the free market.
I hope it's not too difficult to replace a power supply. I heard that replacing the power supply can cause some BIOS settings to be lost, for example, on AMD EXPO.

Are there any important things to do after replacing the power supply ?
Sorry for this stupid question, but I've never done this before.
 
The website told me it was too late to replace the power supply. I kind of suspected it ^^

So I'm going to buy a new one on the free market.
I hope it's not too difficult to replace a power supply. I heard that replacing the power supply can cause some BIOS settings to be lost, for example, on AMD EXPO.

Are there any important things to do after replacing the power supply ?
Sorry for this stupid question, but I've never done this before.
There's one incredibly important thing to remember when replacing a power supply:
Do not use cables from the old power supply with the new one, even if the connectors on the power supply look the same (even if it's the same brand). There are many cases where different models from the same manufacturer use the same cable pinouts, but some models have different pinouts and it's better to assume you can't re-use cables from a different power supply and verify otherwise than to just take the risk.

So when you take out the old supply, also remove all power cables that came with it (for the motherboard, the GPU, any SATA devices, RGB/fan hubs, etc.). Looking at your build's parts, that should only be a few cables, so this isn't hard to do, it's just the most important thing that I've seen people damage their parts by ignoring.

Your motherboard should have a CMOS battery that is there just so the motherboard can store the BIOS settings. If it does not retain those settings, that battery on the motherboard is dead and should be replaced. Removing the power supply should have no impact on your PC greater than disconnecting the power cord from the wall (which you should also do before unplugging things in the computer). It's always good to check the BIOS settings when you get a new PC or make any hardware changes though, also just a good idea to familiarize yourself with some of the menus and settings anyway, but that's really up to you. You'll want to have XMP enabled, "game boost" disabled (that's MSI's auto-overclocking and historically it has been not good), and then I'll leave it up to you if you have any interest in PBO2 or other manual overclocking settings. You should also be able to find the "smart fan" settings and set those up for your AIO fans and other case fans. System Integrators have a pretty high tendency to not enable XMP or set up the fan profiles, so it's usually good to set those up in a way that meets your needs (from a cooling per noise ratio perspective).

Edit: I forgot one other reminder that we should probably give as you've said you've never done this before. When installing the new cables, make sure the connectors are all Fully-seated. This is more critical on the GPU connectors than anywhere else, especially with an RTX 5090, but making sure the connectors are fully inserted is critical (not just when the latch clicks in, which is also required, but when the mating connectors' flat faces are fully touching each-other...no gaps!). Here's a quick and simple guide on that. It is also good practice to go back and look at all the connectors after you've installed everything and tied down cables to make sure nothing has been pulled on that wiggles the connectors to an angle or something while you added any cable-ties, straps, or zip-ties when doing cable-management.

Edit2: Asking questions is not stupid. It would have been stupid to just assume you know everything or won't have any issues/questions along the way and mess something up because you didn't do any research or were too stubborn to ask for help.
 
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Honestly, replacing the PSU is easy to do sloppily, and one of the most involved jobs in PC building to do neatly and cleanly.

Take note of the cable-routing the builder has used, take photos of both the front and back of the motherboard tray before you unplug anything.

The basic instructions sound easy: "Unplug the original PSU from the motherboard and graphics card, then swap the PSU by reconnecting the new one in all the same places"

The reality is that cable management involves lots of velcro tags or zip ties and is specific to each cable length, and undoing or cutting those to free the original PSU involves redoing most of the cable-management work.

If you've managed to plug everything in correctly, the most important thing to do is make sure that there's not enough cable slack for any of the cables to touch any of the fan blades. Everything else is cosmetic.
 
My opinion, again, as an RTX 5090 owner: It is well within your interests to build with more than 32 GB of RAM from the get go. Even if you're on something like a ROG Apex or Aorus Tachyon board and running tweaked, high frequency RAM, buy a 2x24 kit at the absolute minimum. I have run out of memory with this GPU installed, something that didn't really occur with the RTX 4080, even at the same graphics settings. Weird ways of the Windows memory commit system I suppose.
 
Thanks for these valuable advices.
I'll be very careful with this.

I wanted to ask you something about the monitor we had, the LG Ultragear 27G850A-B.

I read some reviews of this monitor saying that it wasn't possible to play 4K pass-through at 240Hz.

"The presence of a DisplayPort 2.1 UHBR13.5 connection means that the monitor must rely on Display Stream Compression (DSC) to achieve 4K and 240Hz; a higher UHBR20 bandwidth would be needed to provide an uncompressed 4K and 240Hz image."

I saw that the Display Stream Compression wasn't great.

What do you think? Is the compression really noticeable? Have you ever experienced this?
Are there any monitors capable of displaying 240Hz in 4K pass-through?

For info : This screen was bought for 500 euros, it costs 300 euros more now...
 
Thanks for these valuable advices.
I'll be very careful with this.

I wanted to ask you something about the monitor we had, the LG Ultragear 27G850A-B.

I read some reviews of this monitor saying that it wasn't possible to play 4K pass-through at 240Hz.

"The presence of a DisplayPort 2.1 UHBR13.5 connection means that the monitor must rely on Display Stream Compression (DSC) to achieve 4K and 240Hz; a higher UHBR20 bandwidth would be needed to provide an uncompressed 4K and 240Hz image."

I saw that the Display Stream Compression wasn't great.

What do you think? Is the compression really noticeable? Have you ever experienced this?
Are there any monitors capable of displaying 240Hz in 4K pass-through?

For info : This screen was bought for 500 euros, it costs 300 euros more now...

Must be a limitation of the monitor itself. The RTX 50 series supports full UHBR20 bandwidth, the only current generation GPU that does not is the Radeon RX 9070 (and XT). I do not have a strong opinion on DSC, it is supposed to be visually lossless, but I never actually saw it for myself. Cannot comment there.
 
Must be a limitation of the monitor itself. The RTX 50 series supports full UHBR20 bandwidth, the only current generation GPU that does not is the Radeon RX 9070 (and XT). I do not have a strong opinion on DSC, it is supposed to be visually lossless, but I never actually saw it for myself. Cannot comment there.
yes it's the monitor
1746527608899.png


I wanted to ask you something about the monitor we had, the LG Ultragear 27G850A-B.

I read some reviews of this monitor saying that it wasn't possible to play 4K pass-through at 240Hz.

"The presence of a DisplayPort 2.1 UHBR13.5 connection means that the monitor must rely on Display Stream Compression (DSC) to achieve 4K and 240Hz; a higher UHBR20 bandwidth would be needed to provide an uncompressed 4K and 240Hz image."

I saw that the Display Stream Compression wasn't great.

What do you think? Is the compression really noticeable? Have you ever experienced this?
Are there any monitors capable of displaying 240Hz in 4K pass-through?
It should visually not be noticeable in any way, I have heard very selective voices about the blue colour gamma getting a bit crushed. But that might be some preconditioning (not lossless = bad)

!BUT I have no experience with DSC, that's just the things I found out after researching the topic!

The only way you will probably notice it is, if you alt+tab/minimize a game. It can take a bit longer (compared to no DSC) or if you want to use Nvidia DLDSR on a 4000 Series or lower (apparently some compatibility issue with DP 1.4) while using DSC
 
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What do you think? Is the compression really noticeable? Have you ever experienced this?
I do, I have an LG G4 which is 4K 144Hz, and I had a 6750XT before I switched to a 9070XT. The HDMI on the 6750XT is 40Gb/s instead of the full 48Gb/s. Without DSC I couldn't go over 120Hz. I never noticed any artifact or any difference between DSC on and off. The experience was the same.

I was skeptical at first, but after intense pixel piping, I decided to keep it on.
 
I've used DSC on my 4K120 TV because my previous GPU only had an HDMI 2.0 port and 10-bit HDR needed HDMI 2.1 to run without DSC.

I can't say I noticed, though most of the HDR content was movies/TV which is compressed anyway (H.264/H.265/AV1). The few games I tried that supported 10-bit HDR all looked fine, I haven't done a back-to-back test now that I have the 5070Ti with HDMI 2.1b.

I'd just see how it looks with your existing monitor first - if you're unhappy with DSC then change the monitor once you've at least seen DSC with your own eyes rather than relying on third-party information from us in a forum thread.
 
Okay, so I'll try it myself when I get the PC.


On which site can you find such detailed information ?
this is geizhals.de (with auto-translator enabled from German into English)
 
Hello everyone !

I received the PC!

I tried several games, everything seems fine.

I just have a slight coil whine, particularly noticeable with RE3 :
(When I put my hand on the blackplate, it's BURNING)

Otherwise, the PSU is therefore the SQ-Power - SQ-GOLD Silent - 1200W - 80 PLUS Gold.
Do you think there are any risks in using this PSU for now ? Or should I replace it as soon as possible ?
 
Running a 5090
(When I put my hand on the blackplate, it's BURNING)

Otherwise, the PSU is therefore the SQ-Power - SQ-GOLD Silent - 1200W - 80 PLUS Gold.
Do you think there are any risks in using this PSU for now ? Or should I replace it as soon as possible ?
The 5090 is always going to be hot. It's a 600W card so it's essentially a powerful heater when it's running. A hot backplate means that the backplate is doing its job and pulling heat away from the memory on the back of the 5090.

As for the PSU, it's a risk - but that risk is the builder's risk until your warranty with them runs out, so I'd be tempted to leave it in there for as long as the builder is responsible for the warranty. If the PSU blows up and takes the 5090 with it, then the builder pays to replace the 5090. Once the warranty runs out, you're responsible for the cost of replacing a destroyed 5090.
 
Running a 5090

The 5090 is always going to be hot. It's a 600W card so it's essentially a powerful heater when it's running. A hot backplate means that the backplate is doing its job and pulling heat away from the memory on the back of the 5090.

As for the PSU, it's a risk - but that risk is the builder's risk until your warranty with them runs out, so I'd be tempted to leave it in there for as long as the builder is responsible for the warranty. If the PSU blows up and takes the 5090 with it, then the builder pays to replace the 5090. Once the warranty runs out, you're responsible for the cost of replacing a destroyed 5090.
There is no memory on the back of the PCB.
 
(When I put my hand on the blackplate, it's BURNING)
5090's run hot, there's no avoiding that fact unless you turn the clocks and the voltages on the card down.
Otherwise, the PSU is therefore the SQ-Power - SQ-GOLD Silent - 1200W - 80 PLUS Gold.
Do you think there are any risks in using this PSU for now ? Or should I replace it as soon as possible ?
No. That PSU is fine. Enjoy!
 
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