Bought a "working" RX570 8GB Pulse. Got scammed.

[Shrek]

I will try calling my bank, thanks for the advice. What do u mean a "duff" card?

Duff Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster

adjective
British
: INFERIOR, WORTHLESS

 

[koralski]

Duff Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster

adjective
British
: INFERIOR, WORTHLESS

Thanks, Shrek.

 

[VuurVOS]

Sure will try, which labels do you need pics of? And which sections of the PCB do you need close up pics of?

You got a E388 board. I dont see any E388 bioses in the bios collection....

Does you system have onboard video?

 

[koralski]

You got a E388 board. I dont see any E388 bioses in the bios collection....

Does you system have onboard video?

I can ask my girlfriend if i can borrow hers. Assume that i do.

 

[Imperator]

I will need the labels from the card - usually located on coolers shroud.
And the GPU itself - i need the code located on GPU

 

[koralski]

I will need the labels from the card - usually located on coolers shroud.
And the GPU itself - i need the code located on GPU

 

[VuurVOS]

The part number sticker on the cooler is missing. It should look like this:

The only thing which is currently certain is you have a E388 PCB. Can you make a close up photo of the GPU itself?

 

[koralski]

I think he removed it, the previous owner that is, which part of the gpu do you need a picture of?

The part number sticker on the cooler is missing. It should look like this:
View attachment 330083

The only thing which is currently certain is you have a E388 PCB. Can you make a close up photo of the GPU itself?
View attachment 330084

 

[VuurVOS]

I think he removed it, the previous owner that is, which part of the gpu do you need a picture of?

 

[koralski]

View attachment 330089

 

[MaksDampf]

Looks like PCB area around the power connector is fried, I wouldn't get my hopes up of fixing it. Just return it if possible.

The PCB doesn't look burned or delaminated to me. Its just that somebody has done a spotty solderjob there.

Spotty or stained surfaces on GPUs are quite normal as this is residue of soldering flux that hasn't been completely removed. Ideally this is removed by the factory completely before shipping it to the customer, but i have seen plenty of cards with these stains even from quality brands. Sometimes they do the PCB cleaning only after the SMT soldering process. So anything that is soldered after that, like THT parts such as Inductors and the 8Pin Connector are not cleaned at all after going through the soldering bath. This is not very ideal as the flux residue is corrosive, but usually it doesn't matter with such solid connections as an 8Pin or THT inductor. If you want a clean GPU and no corrosion on the metal surfaces, you can clean these residues using Isopropanol and a toothbrush. Its not a bad idea for the longevity of your GPU.

For what reason? They did a poor job at it, too.

Edit: I doubt it was resoldered, if they did so poor job on those 2 pins, I doubt they did other 6 correct. Other 6 look like factory soldering.

From the front of the card all solder joints look like factory soldering.
This looks more like somebody diverted +12V and GND here, possibly for a mining Fan. The board wasn't preheated correctly, and probably leaded solder was used, so the joint didn't heat up all the way to the front.

It could also be that the backside pads were not really wetted with tin on the backside of the PCB from the factory and somebody thought he should fix it before using it in the mining rig with high currents. There is copper visible, which should not be the case if it was ever tinned correctly, but i have seen cards with such solderjobs from the factory where only one half of the connector Via is correctly soldered.

Need help! Today i bought a RX570 advertised as working off of my local alternative to Craigslist. The pictures attached are something of interest imo, i snapped a few pictures where it seemed that components were missing. Card doesn't display any output, but my pc's fans spin. What do i do now, and where do i go with the repair of it (if its even worth it) Please help me!

Do the cards Fans spin too? Does the Card get power and get warm underneath the GPU?
From the pictures there are no components missing, everything looks as normal except the two solder joints on the 8Pin. Also i hope you used a heatsink and fan on the GPU and didn't try to power it up like that (otherwise it is probably fried now).

If it powers up, check the Debug code LEDs if your motherboard has some. I'd try all the other Display Outs. Sometimes only DVI works, or only hdmi, or only displayport. Also you need to have the monitor connected before boot as some cards disable the output for power saving when nothing is connected.

Also try to boot from your IGP if your CPU has some and then look into the device manager if anything shows up at all. if your CPU doesn't have an IGP, try to boot with another GPU, like a GT710 and then do the same.
Also try setting the PCIe link to PCIgen2 or 1.1 in BIOS before you insert the RX570 when you boot off an IGP or replacement adapter.

Try all these things before flashing. If it is a mining card with display output disabled, it should at least show up in device manager when booting off the IGP or another card. If it doesn't, no point in trying the flash.

 

[VuurVOS]

@koralski
215-0910052 => RX 570

AMD Radeon RX 570 Specs

AMD Polaris 20, 1244 MHz, 2048 Cores, 128 TMUs, 32 ROPs, 4096 MB GDDR5, 1750 MHz, 256 bit

www.techpowerup.com

Elpida EDW4032BABG is only seen on 4GB cards. This bios might work since PCB E353 and E388 are visually simulair:

Sapphire RX 570 VBIOS

4 GB GDDR5, 1284 MHz GPU, 1750 MHz Memory

www.techpowerup.com

 

[koralski]

The PCB doesn't look burned or delaminated to me. Its just that somebody has done a spotty solderjob there.

Spotty or stained surfaces on GPUs are quite normal as this is residue of soldering flux that hasn't been completely removed. Ideally this is removed by the factory completely before shipping it to the customer, but i have seen plenty of cards with these stains even from quality brands. Sometimes they do the PCB cleaning only after the SMT soldering process. So anything that is soldered after that, like THT parts such as Inductors and the 8Pin Connector are not cleaned at all after going through the soldering bath. This is not very ideal as the flux residue is corrosive, but usually it doesn't matter with such solid connections as an 8Pin or THT inductor. If you want a clean GPU and no corrosion on the metal surfaces, you can clean these residues using Isopropanol and a toothbrush. Its not a bad idea for the longevity of your GPU.


From the front of the card all solder joints look like factory soldering.
This looks more like somebody diverted +12V and GND here, possibly for a mining Fan. The board wasn't preheated correctly, and probably leaded solder was used, so the joint didn't heat up all the way to the front.

It could also be that the backside pads were not really wetted with tin on the backside of the PCB from the factory and somebody thought he should fix it before using it in the mining rig with high currents. There is copper visible, which should not be the case if it was ever tinned correctly, but i have seen cards with such solderjobs from the factory where only one half of the connector Via is correctly soldered.


Do the cards Fans spin too? Does the Card get power and get warm underneath the GPU?
From the pictures there are no components missing, everything looks as normal except the two solder joints on the 8Pin. Also i hope you used a heatsink and fan on the GPU and didn't try to power it up like that (otherwise it is probably fried now).

If it powers up, check the Debug code LEDs if your motherboard has some. I'd try all the other Display Outs. Sometimes only DVI works, or only hdmi, or only displayport. Also you need to have the monitor connected before boot as some cards disable the output for power saving when nothing is connected.

Also try to boot from your IGP if your CPU has some and then look into the device manager if anything shows up at all. if your CPU doesn't have an IGP, try to boot with another GPU, like a GT710 and then do the same.
Also try setting the PCIe link to PCIgen2 or 1.1 in BIOS before you insert the RX570 when you boot off an IGP or replacement adapter.

Try all these things before flashing. If it is a mining card with display output disabled, it should at least show up in device manager when booting off the IGP or another card. If it doesn't, no point in trying the flash.

The card came without fans, when i tried to boot it up i had the heatsink installed. I will try to boot it with an IGP, and check Device Manager. I only tried the 2 HDMI connectors since i don't have a DVI cable.

@koralski
215-0910052 => RX 570

AMD Radeon RX 570 Specs

AMD Polaris 20, 1244 MHz, 2048 Cores, 128 TMUs, 32 ROPs, 4096 MB GDDR5, 1750 MHz, 256 bit

www.techpowerup.com

Elpida EDW4032BABG is only seen on 4GB cards. This bios might work since PCB E353 and E388 are visually simulair:

Sapphire RX 570 VBIOS

4 GB GDDR5, 1284 MHz GPU, 1750 MHz Memory

www.techpowerup.com

So i got double crossed? Haha, bought a "working" "8gb" card and got a 4gb fried one?

The PCB doesn't look burned or delaminated to me. Its just that somebody has done a spotty solderjob there.

Spotty or stained surfaces on GPUs are quite normal as this is residue of soldering flux that hasn't been completely removed. Ideally this is removed by the factory completely before shipping it to the customer, but i have seen plenty of cards with these stains even from quality brands. Sometimes they do the PCB cleaning only after the SMT soldering process. So anything that is soldered after that, like THT parts such as Inductors and the 8Pin Connector are not cleaned at all after going through the soldering bath. This is not very ideal as the flux residue is corrosive, but usually it doesn't matter with such solid connections as an 8Pin or THT inductor. If you want a clean GPU and no corrosion on the metal surfaces, you can clean these residues using Isopropanol and a toothbrush. Its not a bad idea for the longevity of your GPU.


From the front of the card all solder joints look like factory soldering.
This looks more like somebody diverted +12V and GND here, possibly for a mining Fan. The board wasn't preheated correctly, and probably leaded solder was used, so the joint didn't heat up all the way to the front.

It could also be that the backside pads were not really wetted with tin on the backside of the PCB from the factory and somebody thought he should fix it before using it in the mining rig with high currents. There is copper visible, which should not be the case if it was ever tinned correctly, but i have seen cards with such solderjobs from the factory where only one half of the connector Via is correctly soldered.


Do the cards Fans spin too? Does the Card get power and get warm underneath the GPU?
From the pictures there are no components missing, everything looks as normal except the two solder joints on the 8Pin. Also i hope you used a heatsink and fan on the GPU and didn't try to power it up like that (otherwise it is probably fried now).

If it powers up, check the Debug code LEDs if your motherboard has some. I'd try all the other Display Outs. Sometimes only DVI works, or only hdmi, or only displayport. Also you need to have the monitor connected before boot as some cards disable the output for power saving when nothing is connected.

Also try to boot from your IGP if your CPU has some and then look into the device manager if anything shows up at all. if your CPU doesn't have an IGP, try to boot with another GPU, like a GT710 and then do the same.
Also try setting the PCIe link to PCIgen2 or 1.1 in BIOS before you insert the RX570 when you boot off an IGP or replacement adapter.

Try all these things before flashing. If it is a mining card with display output disabled, it should at least show up in device manager when booting off the IGP or another card. If it doesn't, no point in trying the flash.

Also, could it be the solder hasnt penetrated enough to make a solid connection?

@koralski
215-0910052 => RX 570

AMD Radeon RX 570 Specs

AMD Polaris 20, 1244 MHz, 2048 Cores, 128 TMUs, 32 ROPs, 4096 MB GDDR5, 1750 MHz, 256 bit

www.techpowerup.com

Elpida EDW4032BABG is only seen on 4GB cards. This bios might work since PCB E353 and E388 are visually simulair:

Sapphire RX 570 VBIOS

4 GB GDDR5, 1284 MHz GPU, 1750 MHz Memory

www.techpowerup.com

How would i go about flashing the BIOS without output, using the IGP as output?

 

[MaksDampf]

The card came without fans, when i tried to boot it up i had the heatsink installed. I will try to boot it with an IGP, and check Device Manager. I only tried the 2 HDMI connectors since i don't have a DVI cable.

I had some GTX1060s which would only boot up with DVI. Apparrently the HDMI signal quality tends to degrade with such old cards and it sometimes works again for some time with more premium cables. or it is some win10 driver issues, but haven't heard this happens to Polaris cards too. HDMI is definitely not the connection you want to be using when debugging as it is heavily decoded and can have signal and cable quality issues more easily. Displayport seems to be less failure prone and DVI is very solid. Generally HDMI is for TVs and DP is for PCs.

So i got double crossed? Haha, bought a "working" "8gb" card and got a 4gb fried one?

Your heatsink also said 4GB. Did i understand right and you got the card with that heatsink, but without fans installed?

Also, could it be the solder hasnt penetrated enough to make a solid connection?

Yes, This is a cold solder joint. It would look better if it was heated enough and the solder penetrated through. Likely he used leaded solder and an iron calibrated for the lower temperatures of leaded solder. So it hasn't heated up enough to melt the leadfree solder and make a solid joint.
But since both sides of the PCB already have the needed 12V and GND connention and everything looks fine from the front side and you have the other six Pins of the connector connected to the same Pads, this is likely not the issue which is preventing your card from POSTing.

 

[koralski]

I had some GTX1060s which would only boot up with DVI. Apparrently the HDMI signal quality tends to degrade with such old cards and it sometimes works again for some time with more premium cables. or it is some win10 driver issues, but haven't heard this happens to Polaris cards too. HDMI is definitely not the connection you want to be using when debugging as it is heavily decoded and can have signal and cable quality issues more easily. Displayport seems to be less failure prone and DVI is very solid. Generally HDMI is for TVs and DP is for PCs.

Your heatsink also said 4GB. Did i understand right and you got the card with that heatsink, but without fans installed?

Yes, This is a cold solder joint. It would look better if it was heated enough and the solder penetrated through. Likely he used leaded solder and an iron calibrated for the lower temperatures of leaded solder. So it hasn't heated up enough to melt the leadfree solder and make a solid joint.
But since both sides of the PCB already have the needed 12V and GND connention and everything looks fine from the front side and you have the other six Pins of the connector connected to the same Pads, this is likely not the issue which is preventing your card from POSTing.

Yes, it came with that heatsink installed, no fans. I will buy a DVI cable to try it, don't know when though.

 

[VuurVOS]

How would i go about flashing the BIOS without output, using the IGP as output?

Do you have a system where you can boot into Windows using the IGP?

If you can boot into Windows, please follow the instructions below.

For RX 500 Series (Polaris) and Older:

Get amdvbflash 2.93

https://www.techpowerup.com/download/ati-atiflash/

Then look for Version 4.68, underneath 4.68 you will see a link to show older version, click that and you should see version 2.93

Follow these steps carefully:

1. Open your "C:" drive in Windows, create a new folder, call it atiflash.

2. Extract the contents of atiflash_293.zip to the "C:\atiflash" folder

3. Find the bios file you downloaded and rename the bios file to 5 digits with .rom on end Example RX 580, change file to rx580.rom (r****.rom)

4. Move r****.rom to the "C:\atiflash" folder

5. Open the start menu, type cmd, when cmd.exe appears right click it and hit "Run as administrator"

6. At the command prompt type in cd\ and press enter until only C:\> is on the screen.

7. Type in cd/atiflash and press enter, you should see C:\atiflash>

8. Type in amdvbflash.exe -i to identify the gpu you want to flash with a 0, 1, or 2)

9. At the C:\atiflash> prompt type in
amdvbflash.exe -unlockrom 0
(there is a space between the e and -unlockrom and 0)(0 is the number zero)
press enter and you will be prompted that the "ROM Unlocked" (or 1, 2)

10. At the C:\atiflash> prompt type in
amdvbflash.exe -f -p 0 r****.rom
(there is a space between the .exe and -f, and a space between -f and -p and 0).
(Or 1, 2)

Press Enter

Follow directions on screen and if flash is successful exit the command prompt and restart, windows should show up on screen

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

For me, its almost never worth it. I dont trust people enough. The only thing I will buy second hand is a car. But my last two cars have been brand new with leases.

Edit: I should add that the secondhand cars are always through a dealership. Never a person trying to sell their own personal vehicle.

I see it's really country-dependent.

Where I live (Russia), scam is not unheard of but GPU retail prices being reasonable still are. $800 for a GPU you can easily get for $450 used don't make this purchase any compelling. Especially if we take into account I'm talking GPUs with leftover 10+ months warranty from a respectable dealership and not some no-name store which is only located abroad.

Of course buying from a retailer minimises risks of being scammed and screwed but paying 30+ percent premium for that, especially when most people here have monthly salary BELOW upper mid-range GPU prices, is ugly. We also got some sort of buyer protection, and when it's not mining boom or whatnot it makes zero sense to scam: you will earn orders of magnitudes more if you are honest. And sellers mostly are.

I personally buy used stuff 95% time I build a PC for myself. About $300 hardware losses (and over 2 thousand dollars saved) throughout 15 years I'm living like this. Can't regret anything.

 

[koralski]

Can i power the GPU with another computer's PSU?

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

Can i power the GPU with another computer's PSU?

Yes.

 

[koralski]

Later today i will try to see if it shows up in Device Manager, if it does i'll try to flash the BIOS and i'll report back. Thanks for everything guys!

 

[koralski]

Sorry to necropost, but i wanted to conclude this. I called up the shipping company and filed a claim against the seller. He later called me begging me to return the card so he can return my money (because he didn't want any problems) i ended up putting it all together and sending it back. Yesterday i met up with a person who was selling an RX 580 8GB Sapphire Nitro+ , i saw that it worked and bought it. So its all good, thanks to all of you who gave me advice and helped me.

I bought this 8GB variant for 45 USD.

 

[P4-630]

Yesterday i met up with a person who was selling an RX 580 8GB Sapphire Nitro+ , i saw that it worked and bought it.

I bought this 8GB variant for 45 USD.

Enjoy! And game on!

 

[Nekajo]

Try the OVEN TRICK.

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

Try the OVEN TRICK.

1. This method is ugly and harmful. Ovens are made for cooking meals, not for GPU resuscitations.
2. OP already solved their issue by getting their money back and buying a working GPU.

 

[Nekajo]

1. This method is ugly and harmful. Ovens are made for cooking meals, not for GPU resuscitations.
2. OP already solved their issue by getting their money back and buying a working GPU.

I fixed several GPUs that way, most recently a 5700XT that was "bricked" paid 20 bucks for it. Which was mostly shipping.