C2 OLED as monitor precautions?

[Micko]

I read on reddit about C2/C3 users making custom resolutions in NVCP to cut out just a handful of pixels from V and H resolution, so that pixel shifting doesn't cut off any content. Seemed like a good enough solution to me.

Thank you! This is excellent solution to pixel shift problem. I made a custom 3824x2151 resolution in NV Control panel because it retains 16:9 aspect ratio, turned on pixel shift and so far everything is working as expected. All games that I have had no problem using this weird resolution and I can't tell the difference from using regular 3840x2160 res.

Btw it looks like pixel shift on C1 is moving screen maximum 5 pixels in each direction.

 

[tabascosauz]

C3 will definitely drop again when the C4 releases in March, but that is a relatively long wait.

I looked them up on canadian Best Buy, at 55 in

B3 1299.99
C3 1899.99
G3 2499.99 + cost of a stand (it doesn't come with one)

It's worth it at that price IMO, around a third of the price cheaper than the C3 and around half the price of a G3

I guess I wait for the new releases then. Did some measuring and 55" is really too big due to my speaker setup. 42" might be able to still fit a stacked monitor, and 48" should be able to fit by itself.

That narrows down the choices, now it's just C3/C4, B4, and QN90 still in the running. C3 and QN90 would need to go on a big sale. There's also 50" QNED80 but it really needs to be like $700

 

[Dr. Dro]

I guess I wait for the new releases then. Did some measuring and 55" is really too big due to my speaker setup. 42" might be able to still fit a stacked monitor, and 48" should be able to fit by itself.

That narrows down the choices, now it's just C3/C4, B4, and QN90 still in the running. C3 and QN90 would need to go on a big sale. There's also 50" QNED80 but it really needs to be like $700

Honestly in that case wait for the C4. Might not get the α11 processor or MLA, but you'll still get 144Hz and the "latest year model" as a reward I suppose... or at the very least a discount on the C3

 

[Bill_Bright]

I've noticed the pixel shifting at work sometimes. Usually on desktop, entire picture moves a few pixels to the left or right. It's enough to notice but I don't consider it too bothersome.

On my OLED TV, I noticed this shift when my cable box froze. I agree it is enough to notice, but considering it happens to prevent burn-in/retention issues, I did not consider it bothersome at all. In fact, I found it reassuring knowing the feature was enabled and working!

 

[Dr. Dro]

On my OLED TV, I noticed this shift when my cable box froze. I agree it is enough to notice, but considering it happens to prevent burn-in/retention issues, I did not consider it bothersome at all. In fact, I found it reassuring knowing the feature was enabled and working!

Since I'm using mine as a monitor I tend to notice it more frequently, but it's still not a big deal imo. I agree

 

[Frag_Maniac]

As one of the posters mentioned, having background that changes often, or animated wallpaper might be better than having all black background, to have all OLED pixels age evenly.

I use all black background as screen saver (Blank), as it not only rests the pixels better, it makes it WAY easier to immediately see any burn in should it happen. If any burn in is seen, at THAT point I would recommend a manual pixel clean and changing your routine of how you use the set.

Some burn in is only easily seen with a white screen instead, but if you surf a handful of forums like I do, chances at least one, like this one, is limited to a light theme only that can suffice as an alternative to an all white screen. Other than that, common sense practices like the following can help.

I turn my set off while making, eating, and cleaning up after any meals, and basically anything else I'm doing that doesn't require sitting in front of the screen. At 65 and retired, otherwise I would risk using it more than 10 hrs a day, which is the scenario it's estimated 11 yr lifespan is based on.

 

[Micko]

I use all black background as screen saver (Blank), as it not only rests the pixels better, it makes it WAY easier to immediately see any burn in should it happen. If any burn in is seen, at THAT point I would recommend a manual pixel clean and changing your routine of how you use the set.

This is embarrassing, now I see I haven't finished that sentence. I meant having background that changes often is better than having all black background IF you have dark (or transparent) taskbar that is not set to auto hide. That way OLED pixels will age evenly and there won't be a faint echo of where taskbar is on bright fullscreen content. Thanks for pointing that out.

This is my first OLED so I will chuck it to being a beginner's mistake.

I'm using Mystify as screen saver. It is light on OLED pixels and I know that computer is on. With blank screen saver I had uneasy feeling that TV might be turned off or PC has crashed.

 

[mama]

Shucks. I might need a lot of brightness on the C2, my room is very bright during the day (helps me work).



I'm not huge on the latest AAA games so it's mainly just DCS, where we got DLSS last year and I'm fine with dips down to 60fps.

The whole thing about needing another monitor is what gets me - I can't dedicate even more desk space to the side for that (42/43" alone would take up nearly the entirety of my main desk). There is a second monitor stacked above (which is where the M32Q will end up going), but I can't use that for main productivity purposes.

I like everything about the C2/C3 except the long term burn-in risk (more accurately, the pain in the ass having to constantly change my habits to avoid image retention) and low brightness.
I am not big on the $100 more expensive QN90C (43" and 50" are VA rebrands from last gen so VA problems, 50"+ are now IPS so IPS problems), but I don't have to change my habits.
X90K/X90L isn't even available in my size (55" way too big, numerous problems).

I have the exact screen as my daily. My room is bright too and I have no issue. Great for gaming too but I think everyone knows that.

 

[Yashyyyk]

I read on reddit about C2/C3 users making custom resolutions in NVCP to cut out just a handful of pixels from V and H resolution, so that pixel shifting doesn't cut off any content. Seemed like a good enough solution to me.

You reckon a $1300cad 55" B3 is worth it? There's a little sale going on at the moment. Best Buy is the only retailer that carries the B3 apparently in Canada, not much other choice.

I had the C3 42" (but with a GTX 1080 and a DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter ) and had to do this too / there is a separate option in NVCP to adjust overscan. But it goes away with an LG update and a certain setting or game mode iirc.

I personally did not like the way ultrawide custom resolutions / the built-in ultrawide mode worked. I'm sure some of this is due to my weirdo GPU / adapter. There is an option to move the ultrawide image up or down (so instead of 2 black bars you only have one) which sounds so so good.

But it didn't work at "full" res for me i.e. 3840x1600 @ 90/100Hz + HDR (I simply wanted some mode higher than 60Hz, the bandwidth is there but idk they don't play well)

Also honestly unless you rip UHD Blurays I don't like the quality you get from streaming on it. At least for most things I tried, I'm sure it depends on the content itself

So I'm more leaning toward something like the ultrawide Alienware OLED or something similar

 

[Frag_Maniac]

I had the C3 42" (but with a GTX 1080 and a DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter ) and had to do this too / there is a separate option in NVCP to adjust overscan. But it goes away with an LG update and a certain setting or game mode iirc.

I personally did not like the way ultrawide custom resolutions / the built-in ultrawide mode worked. I'm sure some of this is due to my weirdo GPU / adapter. There is an option to move the ultrawide image up or down (so instead of 2 black bars you only have one) which sounds so so good.

But it didn't work at "full" res for me i.e. 3840x1600 @ 90/100Hz + HDR (I simply wanted some mode higher than 60Hz, the bandwidth is there but idk they don't play well)

Also honestly unless you rip UHD Blurays I don't like the quality you get from streaming on it. At least for most things I tried, I'm sure it depends on the content itself

So I'm more leaning toward something like the ultrawide Alienware OLED or something similar

Yes, source content quality when streaming matters a lot and the end result varies because of it. However, I've streamed everything from 1080p movies on PlutoTV to Amazon UHD HDR content, and one fact that cannot be understated is various types of streaming content definitively also need attention to not only the picture mode used, but the settings within. I find Cinema mode works best with content that needs to be upscaled, because it makes best use of the C3's very good smoothing. This is no doubt why RTINGs.com rates it 9/10 on low quality content smoothing.

For much better source quality like Amazon Prime's UHD HDR content, I use Filmmaker mode, as you can set it to automatically detect HDR content and it will verify that in the upper right corner with an HDR logo as soon as such content plays, as long as you are in FM mode with it set to detect HDR. The only slight nit pick I have about some of Amazon's UHD HDR content, like Reacher for example, is it often has very dark scenes that at times require a 55 setting on OLED Brightness and Black Level, as well as 2.2 on Gamma.

And yeah, you can use tools like CRU to set custom resolutions, or even your GPU control panel, but you'll likely be limited to 60Hz on Ultrawide and it might not support 4:4:4 Chroma or HDR either.

I know it's nice to think of high end TVs as monitors now a days, and sometimes that comes with high expectations, but the TV industry is still a very tight balancing act between being competitive on price and innovating, which means features have to be largely kept mainstream. We've already seen big brands like Panasonic and even Sonly struggle to revamp their TV divisions as far as goals, due to too many units being manufactured and online vendors selling them well below their intended price point. It's why you no longer find Panasonic TVs in the states.

 

[R-T-B]

I use all black background as screen saver (Blank), as it not only rests the pixels better, it makes it WAY easier to immediately see any burn in should it happen.

Burn in will never show on a full black display to my knowledge, at least not on non-QD based OLEDs.

 

[Frag_Maniac]

Burn in will never show on a full black display to my knowledge, at least not on non-QD based OLEDs.

Come to think of it, I can see how that might be true since the pixels turn off when the screen is blank, though I'd like to know if anyone can point me to confirmation of that.

 

[R-T-B]

Come to think of it, I can see how that might be true since the pixels turn off when the screen is blank, though I'd like to know if anyone can point me to confirmation of that.

I don't know how you'd confirm it other than understanding the tech. As you said, the pixels turn off. Nothing to show = no burn in.

QD-OLEDs technically don't always shut completely off (or there's bleed-through, something or another, it's confusing) hence the caveat.

 

[oxrufiioxo]

I don't know how you'd confirm it other than understanding the tech. As you said, the pixels turn off. Nothing to show = no burn in.

QD-OLEDs technically don't always shut completely off (or there's bleed-through, something or another, it's confusing) hence the caveat.

Could be wrong but I think it has somthing to do with how the screen coating diffuses outside light. In a dark room they are equally as black at least in the case of my G8 OLED but when there is a ton of ambient light it doesn't look quite as dark.

 

[nguyen]

LG is having a promotion where I am, C3 evo 48in for a mere 999usd (VAT included), I must resist the dark urge...ahhhh

and BTW lately I have noticed that with the new software update, my CX no longer dim the panel when maximizing a window with white background (such as TPU forum), I'm still very happy with my CX

 

[tabascosauz]

Thanks everyone for the useful info. The LG OLEDs have been sitting pretty at their MSRPs and the Quest 3 didn't really work out either. I ended up picking up an open box 43" QN90B for about $800cad. Putting it through its paces now (already noticing some expected Samsung software quirks), but it seems to be very lightly used/hardly touched at all by its previous owner. Firmware is relatively recent (1443 I think?).

I do notice a bit of the VA shift from where I sit, but it's about what I expected and not a deal-breaker as I'm keeping the M32Q above it in the stack for colour accurate work.

Maybe there will be an OLED somewhere in my future, certainly with the money saved on this one, but not today

 

[oxrufiioxo]

Thanks everyone for the useful info. The LG OLEDs have been sitting pretty at their MSRPs and the Quest 3 didn't really work out either. I ended up picking up an open box 43" QN90B for about $800cad. Putting it through its paces now (already noticing some expected Samsung software quirks), but it seems to be very lightly used/hardly touched at all by its previous owner. Firmware is relatively recent (1443 I think?).

I do notice a bit of the VA shift from where I sit, but it's about what I expected and not a deal-breaker as I'm keeping the M32Q above it in the stack for colour accurate work.

Maybe there will be an OLED somewhere in my future, certainly with the money saved on this one, but not today

Super solid one of the better mini led televisions.. Would probably had been my choice if not oled as well

 

[tabascosauz]

Super solid one of the better mini led televisions.. Would probably had been my choice if not oled as well

I'm glad I didn't pay $1400cad for the QN90C - oops I mean the gimped QN90B with shittier stand and higher price the open box QN90C was $1000cad ($200 more than this QN90B) but it didn't seem worth it.

It has been a pretty wild ride trying to get this panel dialed in. I haven't even gotten around to calibrating yet. But I will say that everything seems to be much improved, for monitor use, once I disabled local dimming in service menu.

The decade old cheap ass 58" Samsung H5202 upstairs came in clutch. Its old remote works perfectly on both TVs, and the old remote is mandatory for accessing the service menu. The new remote is nicer for day to day use though with its solar charging.

If the C2 was still available at $1200cad, I'd be down though. I'm sure it's nice to not have to deal with VA viewing angles, I'm just not sure it's +$700cad nice.

 

[oxrufiioxo]

I'm glad I didn't pay $1400cad for the QN90C - oops I mean the gimped QN90B with shittier stand and higher price the open box QN90C was $1000cad ($200 more than this QN90B) but it didn't seem worth it.

It has been a pretty wild ride trying to get this panel dialed in. I haven't even gotten around to calibrating yet. But I will say that everything seems to be much improved, for monitor use, once I disabled local dimming in service menu.

The decade old cheap ass 58" Samsung H5202 upstairs came in clutch. Its old remote works perfectly on both TVs, and the old remote is mandatory for accessing the service menu. The new remote is nicer for day to day use though with its solar charging.

If the C2 was still available at $1200cad, I'd be down though. I'm sure it's nice to not have to deal with VA viewing angles, I'm just not sure it's +$700cad nice.

That is my main complaint with VA mini led and probably any display with local dimming vs Oled it is a pita to get them dialed in for normal desktop use usually I just disable the backlight also which defeats the whole purpose of the panel imho.

 

[onemanhitsquad]

I use translucent toolbar and and all black screensaver otherwise you should be golden for a very long time unless you are watching stuff like foxnews on your pc constantly. Your gpu might have a hard time driving it my 3080ti struggled in most games at 4k even with DLSS.

I still recommend a secondary monitor for productivity but of all the oleds I would trust LG the most for long term use even though I own both types.

Personally I like the picture quality of oled a lot more than mini led.... I have to turn off local diming on a va to even stomach one for desktop use and at that point what is the point. If you are doing 70%+ media consumption I'd stick with oled if you want a single display and do a lot of productivity I'd stick with an ips monitor.

CNN will burn your screen in about 5 minutes...the stupidity level alone causes burn in...hahahaha

 

[ViperXZ]

My recommendation would be this:

if you plan to use it as a office monitor, big nono, will have burn in. If mainly for something which involves full screen use, like gaming or anything else you can imagine, absolutely no problem. As long as the image does frequently change, full screen, it’s fine. Office involves too many static things like task bar, other bars, a big no for a OLED, unless you limit your office work to a few hours max (2-3 hours max).

 

[erocker]

I've had my LG 42" OLED for over a year now. I've used it no differently to a monitor other than running "pixel cleaning" once a week. No burn-in, no issues at all.

 

[Arrakis9]

Just wanted to chime in as well I've had my 42" lg c2 evo for around 9 months now. I have pixel shifting enabled and run the refresher once a month. Haven't noticed any burn in at all. I use it for heavy gaming and media consumption primarily with some static elements in the games I play.

I do however have detection issues with mine were it will display the bios just fine even the windows logo on start up but as soon as it hits the desktop sometimes it will display no connection.
In the past I would have to unplug and re plug the hdmi cable 1 to 5 times before it would show the desktop. I tried changing out multiple high quality 8k cables including an expensive optical cable and they all produced the same effect. I did read up on the issue and found an easier way to address the problem by holding down the power button on the TV itself for 5-10 seconds until the power led flashes. That usually solves the issue in 1-2 goes. I have it connected to an rtx 4070 and I fear that it may be a hardware issue with either the TV or the graphics card.

Just take what I say with a grain of salt because it deffenitly seems like an edge case as I've only seen a handful of reports with the same issue I'm experiencing. I deffintly won't dock it hard as it's just a mild annoyance that I encounter once a day, deffintly still mad in love with this OLED.

One other weird issue I have is sometimes when I'm playing shooters some one will say the word "menu" or something similar and the mic on the remote picks it up and displays the menu on the TV. It has gotten me killed a few times already lol.

 

[Frag_Maniac]

Just wanted to chime in as well I've had my 42" lg c2 evo for around 9 months now. I have pixel shifting enabled and run the refresher once a month. Haven't noticed any burn in at all. I use it for heavy gaming and media consumption primarily with some static elements in the games I play.

I do however have detection issues with mine were it will display the bios just fine even the windows logo on start up but as soon as it hits the desktop sometimes it will display no connection.
In the past I would have to unplug and re plug the hdmi cable 1 to 5 times before it would show the desktop. I tried changing out multiple high quality 8k cables including an expensive optical cable and they all produced the same effect. I did read up on the issue and found an easier way to address the problem by holding down the power button on the TV itself for 5-10 seconds until the power led flashes. That usually solves the issue in 1-2 goes. I have it connected to an rtx 4070 and I fear that it may be a hardware issue with either the TV or the graphics card.

Just take what I say with a grain of salt because it deffenitly seems like an edge case as I've only seen a handful of reports with the same issue I'm experiencing. I deffintly won't dock it hard as it's just a mild annoyance that I encounter once a day, deffintly still mad in love with this OLED.

One other weird issue I have is sometimes when I'm playing shooters some one will say the word "menu" or something similar and the mic on the remote picks it up and displays the menu on the TV. It has gotten me killed a few times already lol.

Odd, the only way voice recognition works on my C3 is if I hold down the mic button on the remote, and it doesn't even start recognizing until you hold it down for like a sec or so. I assumed the C2 worked the same way with voice recognition, but maybe that's something they redesigned for the C3.

 

[oxrufiioxo]

Odd, the only way voice recognition works on my C3 is if I hold down the mic button on the remote, and it doesn't even start recognizing until you hold it down for like a sec or so. I assumed the C2 worked the same way with voice recognition, but maybe that's something they redesigned for the C3.

My C1 and G2 are identical to your's. I've never experienced that once in any online game.

Maybe an accessibility setting.