- Joined
- May 21, 2008
- Messages
- 966 (0.16/day)
Processor | Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
---|---|
Motherboard | MSI MAG X570S Tomahawk Max WiFi |
Cooling | EK Supremacy EVO Elite + EK D5 + EK 420 Rad, TT Toughfan 140x3, TT Toughfan 120x2, Arctic slim 120 |
Memory | 32GB GSkill DDR4-3600 (F4-3600C16-8GVKC) |
Video Card(s) | Gigabyte Radeon RX 7900XTX Gaming OC |
Storage | WDBlack SN850X 4TB, Samsung 950Pro 512GB, Samsung 850EVO 500GB, 6TB WDRed, 36TB NAS, 8TB Lancache |
Display(s) | Benq XL2730Z (1440P 144Hz, TN, Freesync) & 2x ASUS VE248 |
Case | Corsair Obsidian 750D |
Audio Device(s) | Topping D50S + THX AAA 789, TH-X00 w/ V-Moda Boompro; 7Hz Timeless |
Power Supply | Corsair HX1000i |
Mouse | Sharkoon Fireglider optical |
Keyboard | Corsair K95 RGB |
Software | Windows 11 Pro |
Okay, so I've got an Olevia 255TFHD (255FHD-T11) LCD TV.
A while ago I noticed that it took a couple tries to get the TV to turn on.
I only noticed because it had gotten worse (at first I thought my remote's batteries were dying)
One day I went to turn my TV on, and nothing happened (other than): The blue status indicator in front of the TV turned off (as it always does) and then the backlight ballasts should click, and the backlights should fire; but it didn't. The blue light went out and never came back on.
Today I cracked open the back panel of my TV. When plugged in, there is a red status indicator lit on in the top corner of the mainboard (as there always was, as far as i remember). Also when I plug in/unplug the TV I can hear a relay in the PSU click (I'm fairly certain that is what it is). Obviously, I'm getting stand-by power... at least enough to power an LED lol.
I've checked the Caps in the PSU (Delta DPS408-AP B)
-two or three caps in the secondary have very minor visible bulging of the vent
-The big cap on the primary is bulged as well
-None of the caps have vented. The vents are intact, as are the plugs on their base; from what I can tell.
-No sign of electrolyte leakage anywhere.
-Everything else is visually intact.
I can get a picture tomorrow probably if it would help.
AFAIK, any bulging on elyctrolytic caps is a sign of failing or failed caps, (yes, no?) and I'm guessing the caps got progressively worse till the point that it went out of bounds and refused to turn on (either logic circuit malfunction, or a protection kicked in) What do you think are the chances that the PSU is dead VS. say, the mainboard or inverter(s)
Man I'm hoping bad caps are to blame, a new PSU is $225US after shipping, and I can't find the mainboard anywhere. The inverters are ~$90 each + shipping
A while ago I noticed that it took a couple tries to get the TV to turn on.
I only noticed because it had gotten worse (at first I thought my remote's batteries were dying)
One day I went to turn my TV on, and nothing happened (other than): The blue status indicator in front of the TV turned off (as it always does) and then the backlight ballasts should click, and the backlights should fire; but it didn't. The blue light went out and never came back on.
Today I cracked open the back panel of my TV. When plugged in, there is a red status indicator lit on in the top corner of the mainboard (as there always was, as far as i remember). Also when I plug in/unplug the TV I can hear a relay in the PSU click (I'm fairly certain that is what it is). Obviously, I'm getting stand-by power... at least enough to power an LED lol.
I've checked the Caps in the PSU (Delta DPS408-AP B)
-two or three caps in the secondary have very minor visible bulging of the vent
-The big cap on the primary is bulged as well
-None of the caps have vented. The vents are intact, as are the plugs on their base; from what I can tell.
-No sign of electrolyte leakage anywhere.
-Everything else is visually intact.
I can get a picture tomorrow probably if it would help.
AFAIK, any bulging on elyctrolytic caps is a sign of failing or failed caps, (yes, no?) and I'm guessing the caps got progressively worse till the point that it went out of bounds and refused to turn on (either logic circuit malfunction, or a protection kicked in) What do you think are the chances that the PSU is dead VS. say, the mainboard or inverter(s)
Man I'm hoping bad caps are to blame, a new PSU is $225US after shipping, and I can't find the mainboard anywhere. The inverters are ~$90 each + shipping