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Cooler Master Mastercase Racing, Porsche 917 Le Mans Tribute

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I'm honored to be invited to share my Mastercase case mod with so many talented pc case modders worldwide. I'm creating a new case mod with Cooler Master's Mastercase 5 / Pro Mid Tower. "Mastercase Racing" will be the catalyst for new bolt-on accessories and modifications for this case by Mnpctech. The custom paint finish will be inspired race by Steve McQueen's GULF PORSCHE 917 from his 1971 movie, "Le Mans."



The MasterCase Mid Tower draws it's inspiration from Cooler Master's MasterConcept from 2016 CES. Cooler Master wants you to have absolute control over how your case looks and functions. You can adjust the exterior structure and it's look through a range of replacement panels and doors. Each choice changes the look of the exterior while giving you flexibility of the interior layout. Order a new Mastercase 5 or Pro from Newegg, HERE



The legendary PORSCHE 917 is the inspiration for the custom paint on this case mod. The 917 only raced for three seasons. It placed 1st in fourteen of the twenty one races it entered 1969 through 1971. The only Gulf Porsche 917 to win the 24 Hours of Le Mans was the one driven in Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie. His 917 from the movie was chassis # 022 and purchased in 1970, from the Porsche by Steve McQueen's movie production company, Solar Productions. It was also the company that would bring the movie "Le Mans" to the big screen. This is the car that McQueen's character, Michael Delaney, starts the race in, and "crashes" late in the race, "writing the car off." The car that was crashed was really a Lola T-70, painted and rebodied, to look like a 917. Many innovations in cinematography, were first tried in this movie. They even went so far, as to weld brackets to the front frame work of the 917, so they could mount a camera to shoot Steve, and the other drivers, in the cockpit. I'm debating about replacing the #22 with #5 to represent the Mastercase 5.



Display the hardware in your Cooler Master MasterCase Pro & 5 with the "Easy PC Mastercase Window Panel" It allows a full view inside your PC without any obstructions. "Easy PC Window Panel" is professionally laser cut from 1/8" thick 100% cast acrylic. It has embedded magnets to make installation and removal fast and easy. The window panel is the same size as the factory steel panel for the Cooler Master MasterCase Pro & 5.




The Mastercase 5 chassis and exterior parts before prepping them with Red Scotchbrite for our custom paint finish. I will be utilizing House of Kolor and PPG products.



Here is the hardware I'd like to use for the "Mastercase Racing" Gaming PC build, but my budget may have to be limited for another personal project. I'd love the INTEL Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 GHz LGA 1151 91W processor to be our race car engine. My first choice of motherboard is GIGABYTE's GA-Z170X-SOC FORCE. It's touted as the ultimate Z170 "Super OverClock" solution from GIGABYTE. It also offers a vast array of user features that includes 22 phases of digital power, cool new OC Touch buttons, durable PCIe slots with metal trim. The SOC FORCE has a large heat sink layout with heat pipe dissipation system and water channel technology to incorporate hybrid cooling through air and liquid supply. This allows the VRMs and MOSFETs to stay cool under load when voltages are pushed high





Brad is applying final coat of Gulf Racing Orange paint, this was custom mixed from specs for the 1970 Porsche 917 race car from Steve McQueen's movie, "Le Mans" We applied this paint to the EK radiator and misc Mastercase accessories





[img=[URL]https://mnpctech.com/images/companies/3/gulf_porsche_9q_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg[/img]











More to come soon!
 
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stinger608

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Solaris17

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The front I/O panel on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro is a bit bland for this theme. I decided to modify it with something that looks more "race car" appropriate. I'll start with steel face plate and chose some switches and controls from Mnpctech that include a red "Fighter Pilot" with momentary toggle for Main Power. The reset will be blue anodized vandal resistant push. I also found a VDO brand 12 volt gauge from the center console of a Volkswagen Rabbit GTI. I'd love to find some mounting bezels for 5mm LEDs for Power & HD activity.






The switches will be mounted with Mnpctech's billet vandal switch mounting plate. Here is all of the custom switch and toggle parts with links to their product pages. Mnpctech is the only source for "Military Pilot" Toggle switches modified for use with your custom PC. Fighter Pilot / Race Car Ignition Toggle Start with red cover, http://mnpctech.com/bulgin-modmytoy...ounting-plates-vandal-anti-resitant-lamptron/





Order blue vandal switch for your PC power or reset, http://mnpctech.com/bulgin-modmytoy...ounting-plates-vandal-anti-resitant-lamptron/

SPST (Push for Momentary, IP-67 rated, CMP #MP19S-F10, Flush Flat Button, Metal Body, SPST-NO, Push button switch. Mounts in a 3/4" hole. Contacts Rated 5A @ 110VAC, 5A @ 220VAC. Compression screw Terminals. VDE/CE listed, RoHS Compliant.<br>



Order Mnpctech Pro-Line Two switch mounting plate, http://mnpctech.com/bulgin-modmytoy...ounting-plates-vandal-anti-resitant-lamptron/


Mounting plate has 22mm hole and 16mm hole. It fits Bulgin, Delrin, Lamptron, and ModMyToy Vandal Resistant Switches. Machined by Mnpctech in 6061 billet aluminum. Length = 3.5" x Width = 1.5" x Thickness = 3/16" Bulgin Mounting Plate Includes: 4, 6/32 x 3/4"screws and nuts.



Replace your PC Power or PC Reset button with this Blue Anodized Vandal Resistant Switch. Made of Nickel Plated Brass.























Darkside 5mm pre-sleeved custom PC LEDS, http://mnpctech.com/pc-led-lights/









The upper portion of the black base for the RED Toggle Switch will be shortened later.
 

CAPSLOCKSTUCK

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Suggestion:

Flock the panel and apply embossed plastic labels (auf Deutsch!) for the button/switch:



I think that would better capture the aesthetic of the car.
 
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The fans I'm using in this Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro case mod are 120mm PROLIMATECH Ultra Sleek Vortex. Here is their product page, http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722

This is 2nd time I've used these fans in custom build and love them. They're 15mm thick, so they can help you save space. Especially when mounting a radiator in the top panel which can block space to accessing DDR slots. I've painted the fan blades on these fans "GULF orange" to match our color theme. By request last year I created this DIY video guide to painting PC cooling fans.




I understand the thought of painting the blades on PC fans will raise concern with some people. I've done it on misc commissioned and personal builds for over decade and have yet to see any of those painted fans fail. I refrain from applying heavy coats which could throw off the balance of the blades, causing the fan bearings prematurely.



You can remove the fan blade hub by using a flat head screw driver to pop off the white retaining ring.



Next step is prepping the surface of the blades for primer base coat before we can apply the color coat.







The blades were topped off with gloss enamel clear coat.

 
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For anyone who either already owns or considering buying the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro, and also DIY liquid cools, you may have pondered about the maximum radiator thickness allowed? Mounting a radiator inside the chassis you're only limited by how much you're willing to enlarge the factory radiator cut-out. I prefer to buy more internal space and mount my radiator between the chassis and the front bezel, I've outfitted mine with EK's XTX 360 that measures 64mm thick, but not without two compromises. You'll need to create a custom front grill for the bezel, as factory one will no longer fit. You also need trim the backside of the upper horizontal brace under the 5.25 bay location.

Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x130x64mm
Weight: Approx. 1496g
Liquid Capacity: Approx. 510 ml (17,25 fl oz)
FPI: 11
Fan installation: 12 x M3 threads on both sides each (for 3x120mm fan each)
Pressure tested: 1bar









 
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For the EK 360 XTX Radiator I'll be using Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon (Model# D122C). This fan has been regarded as the best static pressure optimized fan by DIY PC community since it's release in 2008. The original D122C is no longer made, but there is limited stock available at some online retailers. Last year the D122C Scythe GT fan was resurrected and manufactured as "Darkside Black Edition" by Dazmode. It's the same specs as the original, but now has Black fan blades. Many PC Modders including myself have painted these fans to fit the color schemes of our custom PC builds. I've been asked several times over the years how to remove the metal c-clip without losing or breaking it?*This is my DIY guide to removing and installing external retaining ring or c-clip. Like many others, I've also lost these tiny c-clips while learning the best technique for handling this task.

Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon Factory Spec PDF link, http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/digital/pdf/D1225C.pdf*
Speed: *2150RPM
Air performance : 68.8CFM
Nose: 34db (25cm from the fan, free air)
Power: 12VDC, 0.123A (0.63A peak max)
Operational voltage range: 5-12V (~900rpm-2150rpm)
Bearing: Ball
Expected life: 100000h/35c or 55000h/60c
Appearance: Full black
Dimensions: *119 x 119 x 25 mm / 4.68 x 4.68 x 0.98 in


WARNING:

Perform this task with Safety Glasses, the tiny Black metal retaining ring (c-clip) can and likely will pop off, so perform this task in a clean workspace, so you can find it. I suggest doing the work on a large white bed sheet and holding a large magnet near the fan hub as you remove and re-install the c-clip, to increase you're chances of not losing the c-clip. I haven't found a source for ordering replacement c-clips yet, but I'm still searching.




Here is my suggested Tools & Supplies

Safety Glasses (not pictured)
Heat Gun for removing the fan label. Hair Dryer on HIGH setting will work as well.
10" Wire Cable Tie
Large magnet (not pictured)
External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html
Tweezers
Needle Nose Pliers
Super Glue (not pictured)





External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html



The fan blade looks as if it would snap-on and off, but not the case.



We need to remove the back label to access the external metal c-clip on the fan shaft.



Swipe heat gun or hair dryer back and forth over the label.



Use the Tweezer to peel off the fan label.



Stick the fan label on a clean metal surface while you perform your work.



You will tie down the fan hub with this Twisty tie. The fan shaft has a retention spring inside. You need to compress this spring, so you can remove the metal c-clip. If you don't, it's almost a guarantee that the c-clip will fly off the shaft faster than a bullet.



Using Twisty tie to compress the fan hub spring, by tying down the hub to the fan frame.





Close ups of the Black metal c-clip inside the Scythe Gentle Typhoon.





Insert the two prongs of the Retaining Ring Plier inside the jaw of the c-clip.



If you have a large Magnet, Position it near the fan hub, just in case the c-clip pops off.





Holding the black metal c-clip in the Retaining Ring Plier.



You will widen the jaw of the c-clip and need to bend it back to it's original opening, so it maintains it's grip.



Hold the c-clip in the Tweezer while using a Needle Nose Plier to compress jaw of the c-clip.



Doing this will allow you to re-use the metal c-clip.



Here is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Cooling fan dismantled, next step is choosing whether to apply the GULF Blue or Orange, or both colors?
 
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I debated about which color to paint the Scythe GTs for EK's 360 XTX Radiator. Decided to leave the fan blade hubs their factory grey and paint the frames GULF Blue, which works together and helps break up all of the orange.







Clear coat applied

 

Solaris17

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I'm in love.
 
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Thank you Solaris17.

EK's 360mm XTX radiator has convenient port on bottom for draining your loop. I'm using a Koolance Drain Valve with two of their swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions.(Bitspower also makes a nice drain valve)



Koolance Drain valve (4 way Splitter won't be used in this build)



I'm using two of these Koolance swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions. The others were used in Origin PC build, http://mnpctech.com/genesis-the-evo...roject-with-origin-pc-genesis-full-tower.html





The two swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions allow you to angle the drain valve under the Mastercase bezel and foot.



Having the drain valve outside of the chassis makes periodic maintenance of draining and refilling the liquid loop easy.

 

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Absolutely stunning. Cant wait to see the finished product in all its glory
 
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Thank you Freedom! Only had few minutes yesterday to work on my build. Decided on Black wire fan grills for the GTs. I like the look. I guess some would call them "old school" when compared to vast array of fan grills available today, btw All of the machined aluminum parts for Deep Silver's Homefront: Revolution Gaming PC are getting finished, so I'm dividing workshop time between both builds. What a contrast lol, from "don't scratch the paint!" on "what is the best grit to score this finish"on Homefront.

I also swapped out the Black factory thumbscrews for Mastercase SSD trays to machined knurled silver aluminum.







 
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I scored this Gigabyte OC Force Z87X MB from a friend and I'm watching Ebay for deal on Core i7, socket 1150 4790K 4.0 or 4770K 3.5, then I'll need to get a water block for the CPU. Still debating on GPU(s)

 

stinger608

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Wow, talk about a perfect color match!!!!! Awesome score on that board @MonsterMawd !!!! :clap:
 
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