Delid 7700K and applying CLU + results

Tallencor · Mar 18, 2017

This is exciting stuff.
Was going to attempt this myself a couple yrs back with my ivy but was talked out of it by @Vario glad I didn't at the time due to lack of funds to replace. Was going to vice and hammer it lol.Thanks Vario for that. But man do I want to try at some point. Watching this thread. I'd be interested to see what happens if you do decide to go with liquid metal.

MrGenius · Mar 18, 2017

Always liquid metal under the IHS. It's the most critical heat transfer junction/point. Why use anything but the best you can buy there? Well...unless you plan to LN2/DICE it. In which case you probably shouldn't.

terroralpha · Mar 18, 2017

sneekypeet said:
I have to agree here! Not worth all the effort for just 7 degrees at max. Might be why so many are using liquid metal paste though over the usual TIM offerings.

I think most people do it just for the sake of doing it. I could have easily water cooled my entire rig for $200, with a corsair AIO cooler for the CPU and EVGA "hybrid" kit for my GPU. the temps would have been only 5-10*C more. but I chose to drop north of $600 and waste 2 days of my life building a custom loop. but I had fun doing it, and I like the results.

Hood · Mar 18, 2017

jaggerwild said:
Realtemp never reports actual temps, no software will report actual voltage or temps its a given fact. You want actual temps buy a temperature prob, even then they will not be precise.

RealTemp has never been accurate for me, I go by the temps in AIDA64 stress test, which seem right, because when stress testing a high overclock, my system will bluescreen as maximum CPU core temps approach 90c (as it should). Also great for checking fan and water pump speeds, voltages, clock speeds, etc.

Mussels · Mar 18, 2017

as someone who has delidded, watch your temps over time. Mine would slowly creep up as the TIM bled out inside the IHS, and i had to use liquid metal to stop the thermal creep.

EarthDog · Mar 18, 2017

Wrong paste = that happening.

peche · Mar 18, 2017

erocker said:
I think a metal based thermal compound will bring things up to snuff.

yes it its, there several articles about delid and the reasons why you must use liquid metal,

Tallencor said:
This is exciting stuff.
Was going to attempt this myself a couple yrs back with my ivy but was talked out of it by @Vario glad I didn't at the time due to lack of funds to replace. Was going to vice and hammer it lol.Thanks Vario for that. But man do I want to try at some point. Watching this thread. I'd be interested to see what happens if you do decide to go with liquid metal.

i did delid, @Knoxx29 was the one that supports the process, learned a lot from him,

MrGenius said:
Always liquid metal under the IHS. It's the most critical heat transfer junction/point. Why use anything but the best you can buy there? Well...unless you plan to LN2/DICE it. In which case you probably shouldn't.

pretty much on the point, :pimp:

Mussels said:
as someone who has delidded, watch your temps over time. Mine would slowly creep up as the TIM bled out inside the IHS, and i had to use liquid metal to stop the thermal creep.

you mean that normal TIM, for example arctic mx 4 used @ CPU die will make it bleed and them screw your temps?

EarthDog said:
Wrong paste = that happening.

Simple...

Regards,

fullinfusion · Mar 18, 2017

erocker said:
I think a metal based thermal compound will bring things up to snuff. Gelid is good for IHS to cooler, but for a bare die, the metal stuff (like the Grizzly stuff and Coolabratory stuff) it makes a pretty big difference.

I'll order liquid metal since it be easy to pop the cap back off.

eidairaman1 · Mar 18, 2017

Did you lap the hsf?

peche · Mar 18, 2017

fullinfusion said:
I'll order liquid metal since it be easy to pop the cap back off.

beware, there are a few scenarios were the liquid metal tends to bond ... so when poping out might scratch cores, use collaboratory liquid ultra, issues are somewhere around with collab pro

Regards,

FireFox · Mar 18, 2017

Today i have noticed something that makes me think that my WC loop is wrong.

As showed in the pic below the loop goes this way: Chiller------> Water block -------->Reservoir------->240 Rad-------->Chiller

So, what is cooling the CPU?

there is not Rad between the chiller and CPU, what the 240 Rad is cooling?, nothing?, wouldn't be better to have a Rad between chiller and CPU?

EarthDog · Mar 18, 2017

First... res should be before the pump... feeds the pump..

2nd, loop order really doesn't matter at all. With a properly flowing and radded loop, temps within the loop shouldnt be more than 1-2C off at any point in the loop.

Please have a read a few times, some of these links...: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/71-Water-Cooling

FireFox · Mar 18, 2017

EarthDog said:
First... res should be before the pump... feeds the pump..

I know that.

I don't have Pump and Res separated

EarthDog · Mar 18, 2017

Good to know...glad you typed that.

FireFox · Mar 18, 2017

EarthDog said:
Good to know...glad you typed that.

What happens if i add a Rad between Chiller and Cpu?

peche · Mar 18, 2017

@Knoxx29 check your phone :kookoo:

fullinfusion · Mar 18, 2017

there ordered this so hopefully all goes well, it the right stuff?

Also any tips on spreading the metal around the die?

peche said:
beware, there are a few scenarios were the liquid metal tends to bond ... so when poping out might scratch cores, use collaboratory liquid ultra, issues are somewhere around with collab pro

Regards,

I wont be going bare back

EarthDog · Mar 18, 2017

Knoxx29 said:
What happens if i add a Rad between Chiller and Cpu?

Nothing...at best 1-2c improvement...

FireFox · Mar 18, 2017

EarthDog said:
Nothing...at best 1-2c improvement...

With a 1080 Rad just 1-2c?

EarthDog · Mar 18, 2017

I thought you were moving it in the loop, not adding (missed that word...ADD, lol!).. as far as temps... who knows... a couple C. Nkt sure I would bother with a chiller in the loop though...

FireFox · Mar 18, 2017

EarthDog said:
Nkt sure I would bother with a chiller in the loop though...

Once again the Chiller :banghead:

I have said millions of time that the Chiller it's in idle mode = it's not cooling the water at all :mad:

Say/mention Chiller once again and you will see :nutkick:

Finners · Mar 18, 2017

Mussels said:
as someone who has delidded, watch your temps over time. Mine would slowly creep up as the TIM bled out inside the IHS, and i had to use liquid metal to stop the thermal creep.

Which paste did you use? Think I have made a mistake and used Gelid extreme under the IHS. Was worried of using liquid metal as the 4770k I have has little VRM's next to the die that i didnt want to get any conductive metal on.

EarthDog · Mar 18, 2017

Knoxx29 said:
Once again the Chiller

I have said millions of time that the Chiller it's in idle mode = it's not cooling the water at all

Say/mention Chiller once again and you will see

If You Aren't Using it... Get It Out Of The loop.. Sell It To me.

MrGenius · Mar 18, 2017

fullinfusion said:
there ordered this so hopefully all goes well, it the right stuff?

Also any tips on spreading the metal around the die?

Good choices. CLU spreads very easily. That's one of the advantages of using it.

fullinfusion · Mar 20, 2017

What do you guys think of this, after the liquid metal is applied to the chip and to the under side of the IHS I place the chip in the socket and since I have a marker around the lid on the PCB for proper alignment I just lower it in place.. Oh and I'd have taken the Intel clamp right off the board just for now.. OK I gasket the lid and place it on the chip. Now I'd just lower the water block straight down over the CPU and tighten down the block over night to let the gasket cure.. Once morning comes I just remove the block and install the socket clamp and lock it in place..

Any thoughts if this would be a problem? The rig would be on its side of course and no Tim would.be applied to the block.. It's just a thought on a way to clamp it down and not fuck with the locking mechanism pushing the IHS around while putting it in place.

Those fine lads from Ireland which own memoryC dot com have fedx'd overnight so I'll have it all tomorrow..

System Name	Francis
Processor	7700k @5.0 delid
Motherboard	Rog Maximus IX Code
Cooling	Corsair H100i V2
Memory	32 GB Gskill Trident Z RGB 3200 xmp
Video Card(s)	MSI RX 480 Gaming x 8G
Storage	Samsung960evo250GB os Samsung 860 evo 500GB (Games)Samsung 840 120 (Storage)
Display(s)	Viewsonic XG 2701 Freesync
Case	Corsair Crystal 570x
Audio Device(s)	On board Supreme FX
Power Supply	Evga 850 G3
Mouse	Logitech G900
Keyboard	Logitech G810
Software	Win 10 Home 64
Benchmark Scores	11+12=19?

System Name	Auriga
Processor	Ryzen 7950X3D w/ aquacomputer cuplex kryos NEXT with VISION - acrylic/nickel
Motherboard	Asus ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming WiFi
Cooling	Alphacool Res/D5 Combo •• Corsair XR7 480mm + Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS radiators •• 7xNF-A12 chromax
Memory	2x 32GB G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB @ 6200MHz, 30-40-40-28, 1.35V (F5-6000J3040G32GX2-TZ5NR)
Video Card(s)	MSI RTX 4090 Suprim Liquid X w/ Bykski waterblock
Storage	2TB WD Black SN850X ••• 2TB Corsair M510 ••• 40TB QNAP NAS via SFP+ NIC
Display(s)	Alienware AW3423DWF (3440x1440, 10-bit @ 139Hz)
Case	Thermaltake Core P8
Power Supply	Corsair AX1600i
Mouse	Razer Viper V2 Pro (FPS games) + Logitech MX Master 2S (everything else)
Keyboard	Keycult No2 rev 1 w/Amber Alps and TX stabilizers on a steel plate. DCS 9009 WYSE keycaps
Software	W10 X64 Pro
Benchmark Scores	https://valid.x86.fr/c3rxw7

System Name	DEVIL'S ABYSS
Processor	i7-4790K@4.6 GHz
Motherboard	Asus Z97-Deluxe
Cooling	Corsair H110 (2 x 140mm)(3 x 140mm case fans)
Memory	16GB Adata XPG V2 2400MHz
Video Card(s)	EVGA 780 Ti Classified
Storage	Intel 750 Series 400GB (AIC), Plextor M6e 256GB (M.2), 13 TB storage
Display(s)	Crossover 27QW (27"@ 2560x1440)
Case	Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow
Audio Device(s)	Realtek ALC1150
Power Supply	Cooler Master V1000
Mouse	Ttsports Talon Blu
Keyboard	Logitech G510
Software	Windows 10 Pro x64 version 1803
Benchmark Scores	Passmark CPU score = 13080

System Name	Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load)
Processor	Ryzen R7 5800x3D (Undervolted, 4.45GHz all core)
Motherboard	Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded)
Cooling	Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
Memory	2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3866 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V Hynix MJR - SoC 1.15V)
Video Card(s)	Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W))
Storage	2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s)	Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) \| Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) \| Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144)
Case	Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s)	Logitech G560 \| Corsair Void pro RGB \|Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply	Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse	Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard	Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
VR HMD	Oculus Rift S + Quest 2
Software	Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores	Nyooom.

System Name	Athenna
Processor	intel i7 3770 Dellided
Motherboard	GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Rev. 1.1
Cooling	Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro + Tt Riing12 x2 / Tt ThunderBlade / Gelid Slim 120UV fans
Memory	16GB DRR3 Kingoston with Custom Tt spreaders + HyperX Fan
Video Card(s)	GeForce GTX 980 4GB Nvidia Sample
Storage	Crucial M4 SSD 64GB's / Seagate Barracuda 2TB / Seagate Barracuda 320GB's
Display(s)	22" LG FLATRON 1920 x 1280p
Case	Thermaltake Commander G42 Window
Audio Device(s)	On-board Dolby 5.1+ Kingston HyperX Cloud 1
Power Supply	Themaltake TR2 700W 80plus bronce & APC Pro backup 1000Va
Mouse	Tt eSports Level 10M Rev 1.0 Diamond Black & Tt Conkor "L" mouse pad
Keyboard	Tt eSports KNUCKER
Software	windows 10x64Pro
Benchmark Scores	well I've fried a 775' P4 12 years ago, that counts?

Delid 7700K and applying CLU + results

Tallencor

TPU's First Patreon

MrGenius

terroralpha

Hood

Mussels

Freshwater Moderator

EarthDog

peche

Thermaltake fanboy

fullinfusion

Vanguard Beta Tester

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman

peche

Thermaltake fanboy

FireFox

The Power Of Intel

EarthDog

FireFox

The Power Of Intel

EarthDog

FireFox

The Power Of Intel

peche

Thermaltake fanboy

fullinfusion

Vanguard Beta Tester

EarthDog

FireFox

The Power Of Intel

EarthDog

FireFox

The Power Of Intel

Finners

EarthDog

MrGenius

fullinfusion

Vanguard Beta Tester

System Name	PCGOD
Processor	AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard	Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling	Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory	16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s)	AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage	Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s)	NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case	AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s)	Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply	Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse	Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard	Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software	Windows 7 Pro 64

Processor	Intel i7 10700K
Motherboard	Asus ROG Maximus XII Hero
Cooling	2x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 - 1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 420 - D5 VPP655P - 13x Corsair LL120 - LL140
Memory	32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Hz
Video Card(s)	EVGA GEFORCE RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra
Storage	Samsung 970 EVO PLUS 500GB/1TB - WD Blue SN550 1TB - 2 X WD Blue 1TB - 3 X WD Black 1TB
Display(s)	Asus ROG PG278QR 2560x1440 144Hz (Overclocked 165Hz )/ Samsung
Case	Corsair Obsidian 1000D
Audio Device(s)	I prefer Gaming-Headset
Power Supply	Enermax MaxTytan 1250W 80+ Titanium
Mouse	Logitech G502 spectrum
Keyboard	Virtuis Advanced Gaming Keyboard ( Batboard )
Software	Windows 10 Enterprise/Windows 10 Pro/Windows 11 Pro
Benchmark Scores	My PC runs FiFA

Processor	5900x
Motherboard	MSI B550 Gaming Carbon
Cooling	Artic freezer 280mm
Memory	32GB @ 3800Mhz
Video Card(s)	RTX 3080 FE