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Extremely Quick Thermal Paste Degradation, 15°C Increase - Bad Batch?

Update: So i got EK XRES 100 pump (450L/h) + reservoir combo, it eventually improved the temperature but again only for a short while. I thought that the flow couldve been restricted by the quick disconnects that couldnt be fully screwed in so i replaced them by female-to-female G1/4" fittings, this didnt effect temperatures at all.

Next i tried disconnecting the CPU block pump and using only the EK one in "reverse flow". This improved the temperatures by 20°C (still worse than NH-D15, which is ridiculous since its 120mm x 45mm + 360mm x 30mm + 280mm x 30mm). I tried running only the EKWB pump before (non-reversed) and it was the same as running both (→bad).

Any ideas of what could be wrong with my loop?
 
Wet_Paint said:
Update: So i got EK XRES 100 pump (450L/h) + reservoir combo, it eventually improved the temperature but again only for a short while. I thought that the flow couldve been restricted by the quick disconnects that couldnt be fully screwed in so i replaced them by female-to-female G1/4" fittings, this didnt effect temperatures at all.

Next i tried disconnecting the CPU block pump and using only the EK one in "reverse flow". This improved the temperatures by 20°C (still worse than NH-D15, which is ridiculous since its 120mm x 45mm + 360mm x 30mm + 280mm x 30mm). I tried running only the EKWB pump before (non-reversed) and it was the same as running both (→bad).

Any ideas of what could be wrong with my loop?
Click to expand...
Are you sure your blocks are clean and free of oxidation?
 
lexluthermiester said:
Are you sure your blocks are clean and free of oxidation?
Click to expand...
Clean 100% yes, free of oxidation? if u mean if there is no air in them then yes, i did my best, i had them all individually filled (each radiator) outside the case, shaked them to determine if they have air in them, flipped them upside down many times and then if the water was still at the top of the tube then i put them back together. Even after doing that i was adding even more liquid to the reservoir on the CPU block and later added the reserovoir/pump which is basically still almost full. I dont know about any better way to get rid of the air.

Edit: After changing the flow orientation the maximum GPU temperature over two hours of playing was 38°C, most of the time at 36°C with jumps to 37°C. This leads me to think that there is issue not with the flow but something in the CPU block, the radiators were actually really cold.
 
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Update: Took the whole loop outside the system (in one piece), having only the pump powering the loop, while having it running i checked all the raidators (shaked and flipped them while checking if it makes any sounds or if the weight distribution change) and all i got out of it was +- 40ml of air. I checked the "window" on the CPU waterblock and it looks like there are some sort of white particles stuck on the "window" in a place where the lower "chamber" and the upper "chamber" are connected in exact pattern of the support thats between lower and upper "chamber". GPU still reaches peak 38°C, meanwhile CPU throttles at >90°C at stock (4,0Ghz 1.02V).

At this point i dont think it could be anything other than the CPU block itself, but maybe im not seeing the full picture.
 
Wet_Paint said:
At this point i dont think it could be anything other than the CPU block itself, but maybe im not seeing the full picture.
Click to expand...

Which CPU block you are using?
 
That seems really werid
Could it be improper mounting
 
Knoxx29 said:
Which CPU block you are using?
Click to expand...
this one: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/cpu-cooler/intel-amd/20228/alphacool-eisbaer-solo-2600rpm-black it was part of a pre-made set, all filled up and connected. If you look closer in the first picture there is white star shaped "thing". If i reverse the liquid flow white spots will start appearing on the "window" in a pattern of that star thingy. Putting the flow back to normal sucks theses particles back into the lower chamber without window.

Durvelle27 said:
That seems really werid
Could it be improper mounting
Click to expand...
I've had this mount on for long time on my 5820K without any issues, even with this CPU it was fine half a year ago. Since im using only X99/X299 i literally just need to screw in the 4 long screws which are held in by thick metalic parts that can be put in orientation (at least on intel CPUs). There is nothing that could go wrong. I recently took it apart and put back with no difference.
 
Wet_Paint said:
this one: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/cpu-cooler/intel-amd/20228/alphacool-eisbaer-solo-2600rpm-black it was part of a pre-made set, all filled up and connected. If you look closer in the first picture there is white star shaped "thing". If i reverse the liquid flow white spots will start appearing on the "window" in a pattern of that star thingy. Putting the flow back to normal sucks theses particles back into the lower chamber without window.
Click to expand...

Is it possible to change the block?
 
Wet_Paint said:
this one: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/cpu-cooler/intel-amd/20228/alphacool-eisbaer-solo-2600rpm-black it was part of a pre-made set, all filled up and connected. If you look closer in the first picture there is white star shaped "thing". If i reverse the liquid flow white spots will start appearing on the "window" in a pattern of that star thingy. Putting the flow back to normal sucks theses particles back into the lower chamber without window.


I've had this mount on for long time on my 5820K without any issues, even with this CPU it was fine half a year ago. Since im using only X99/X299 i literally just need to screw in the 4 long screws which are held in by thick metalic parts that can be put in orientation (at least on intel CPUs). There is nothing that could go wrong. I recently took it apart and put back with no difference.
Click to expand...
There is something that can go wrong

Over fighting the block
 
Knoxx29 said:
Is it possible to change the block?
Click to expand...
Technically yes, but only by cutting the tubes. None of the Pre-installed G1/4" fittings will come loose, they are most likely glued in. So once i cut it off there is no way to make it work again because i wont be able to connect it. When i tried to open it with high amount of force the plastic around started to bend a little bit and from the place where the G1/4" connect to the block came out something i could describe as fairly hard white glue/plastic.

Durvelle27 said:
There is something that can go wrong

Over fighting the block
Click to expand...
Not really as the springs compress so much that screw cant overtighten.
 
Wet_Paint said:
Technically yes, but only by cutting the tubes. None of the Pre-installed G1/4" fittings will come loose, they are most likely glued in. So once i cut it off there is no way to make it work again because i wont be able to connect it. When i tried to open it with high amount of force the plastic around started to bend a little bit and from the place where the G1/4" connect to the block came out something i could describe as fairly hard white glue/plastic.
Click to expand...

Would something like this work?

20161220_192209.jpg
 
Wet_Paint said:
Technically yes, but only by cutting the tubes. None of the Pre-installed G1/4" fittings will come loose, they are most likely glued in. So once i cut it off there is no way to make it work again because i wont be able to connect it. When i tried to open it with high amount of force the plastic around started to bend a little bit and from the place where the G1/4" connect to the block came out something i could describe as fairly hard white glue/plastic.


Not really as the springs compress so much that screw cant overtighten.
Click to expand...
You’d be surprised

I had a block that would over tighten even with springs in place

And when you tighten do you do it in a cross config
 
Knoxx29 said:
Would something like this work?

View attachment 108907
Click to expand...

I guess, yeah, as long as it fits LGA2011/2066. Whats the full name of the waterblock? I could find many similiar ones.

Durvelle27 said:
You’d be surprised

I had a block that would over tighten even with springs in place

And when you tighten do you do it in a cross config
Click to expand...

I always start screwing them in in cross pattern just so they can barely hold in and then i screw them in fully in cross pattern once again.
 
Wet_Paint said:
Looks great but it seems old, these are from 2012?
Wont the gold plating cause any problems?
And what about the price?
EK products here are relatively cheap, new EK Supremacy (for LGA115X/2011/2066 only) is less than 50€ and new universal one +- 65€.
Click to expand...

Many people uses that block including myself, i have been using it for many years and i never had any problem, great product.
 
Knoxx29 said:
Many people uses that block including myself, i have been using it for many years and i never had any problem, great product.
Click to expand...
For a second there i assumed you had spare one trying to sell it, my bad. I guess ill go with the EKWB Supremacy MX (intel only version: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-mx), there is no difference (in performance) compared to the other ones, just the mounting mechanism, right?
 
Update: Yesterday i got my Supremacy MX. Instalation was horrible but the temperatures are really really good, idling in low 20s, ingame temps about mid 50s, under cinebench load about 70-80°C, thats at 4.7Ghz.

I was curious and i took apart the alphacool CPU block and what i found was really shocking for me.
P_20181113_162104.jpg
Is this galvanic corrosion or just a lot of gunk that got cought in the tightest part of the loop? How does this even happen? Did alphacool prefill these with just distilled water without any anti-bacterial stuff?
 
Those temperatures with the Supremacy MX that you now have seem acceptable.

I can't really tell if its algae or corrosion from the photo. What does it look like after you clean it? If its still nasty looking its corrosion and if it wipes out its probably algae.
 
Vario said:
Those temperatures with the Supremacy MX that you now have seem acceptable.

I can't really tell if its algae or corrosion from the photo. What does it look like after you clean it? If its still nasty looking its corrosion and if it wipes out its probably algae.
Click to expand...
Tried cleaning it but it wont come off (tried isopropyl alcohol too) but after lightly scratching the surface with screwdriver it almost immediately exposed the copper underneath. From the center hole of the block i was able to dig out something that looks like roots of plant about 1cm long with many smaller roots attached.

Knoxx29 said:
Maybe i am mistaken but it looks like corrosion
headscratch.gif




For how long did you use that CPU Block?
Click to expand...
Ive this CPU block since January 2017. It was using the "stock" liquid until Q2 2018 until then i only added distilled water to the the reservoir since opening these quick disconnects always causes small leak.


EDIT: I should also note that after i replaced the liquid with distilled water and Mayhems X1 i was finally able to unscrew G1/4" fittings with ease, before using this liquid it was impossible. After further inspection it didnt seem like it was held in by any sort of glue or anything.
 
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Wet_Paint said:
I was curious and i took apart the alphacool CPU block and what i found was really shocking for me, How does this even happen? i only added distilled water to the reservoir
Click to expand...

Maybe the distilled water you added?
 
Wet_Paint said:
Tried cleaning it but it wont come off (tried isopropyl alcohol too) but after lightly scratching the surface with screwdriver it almost immediately exposed the copper underneath. From the center hole of the block i was able to dig out something that looks like roots of plant about 1cm long with many smaller roots attached.


Ive this CPU block since January 2017. It was using the "stock" liquid until Q2 2018 until then i only added distilled water to the the reservoir since opening these quick disconnects always causes small leak.


EDIT: I should also note that after i replaced the liquid with distilled water and Mayhems X1 i was finally able to unscrew G1/4" fittings with ease, before using this liquid it was impossible. After further inspection it didnt seem like it was held in by any sort of glue or anything.
Click to expand...
If its copper then try using ketchup and a toothbrush. Ketchup cleans copper really well. Of course, clean the ketchup off with first soap and water and lastly isopropyl.
 
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