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Fury X burned SMD capacitor replacement

B

Btech

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May 19, 2018
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Hello,

while gaming my pc shut down and does not boot anymore when my Fury X is in the pcie slot, no reaction no fan spinning. My old gtx 560ti works fine.

On the bottom part of the PCB i found a burned SMD capacitor as seen in the picture below. I bought the card second hand so warranty is sadly not an option.
I decided to replace the capacitor, but dont know the specs. The size of the capacitor is about 2x1,2 mm.

Any thoughts or ideas about the capacitor specs would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys
Btech

IMG_20180519_150237.jpg
 
Just remove the cap and try it again. They're often not critical components so your card may work fine without it. If not, then worry about its value.
 
thanks qubit, i will try it later on
any other ideas about the capacitor?
 
I think you could find someone who has an R9 Fury X and ask them to measure the capacitance using a digital multimeter, I don't know how well that will measure with it connected to the circuit, maybe in Rel mode.
http://en-us.fluke.com/training/tra...re-capacitance-with-a-digital-multimeter.html

You may be able to ask the manufacturer of that model if they could provide a schematic or tell you the part number for that SMD cap.
 
It looks to me like that might just be a power filtering cap. Simply removing it likely won't fix the card, because the card still won't receive power.

You will have to bridge the connection.
 
Take it to a local eletronic repair shop and have them replace the cap.

Also a lot of times the manufacture can repair the card for you even if it is second hard. Just expect to pay some money though.
 
That is merely a decoupling capacitor for the +12V PCIE input, it's likely not actually needed. Just remove it or replace it with an equally sized capacitor.
 
It's just a cap. It's not rocket science. Just get one of the same type and size and replace it. If you want to stay on the "safe" side, replace it with one that has the highest voltage and capacitance ratings you can find. It's a graphics card, so it's not going to be needing anything rated for more than 12V. And my google fu tells me that the capacitance of those little buggers is typically 1µf or less(much less in fact). So there's your answer. 12V 1µf will almost certainly be sufficient(or likely more than sufficient). If you want to stay on the "extra safe" side, stack a couple(or more) of them on there. More is always better(voltage rating and µf). It's not enough that you need to worry about. And by worry I mean worry about it dying/needing replaced again sooner than it should.
 
even tho its second hand see if they will warranty it anyways. its really up to the person who answers your ticket.
 
Those are supposedly Samsung. So the brand would likely be good. And the seller has a 99.9% positive rating.
Btech said:
thanks everyone, i will try those caps:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/183220426454?ViewItem=&item=183220426454
Click to expand...
Those should probably be good enough. I'm not at all familiar with ceramic capacitors. But it doesn't look like you can find that package size rated for too much higher µf for what I would think the minimal voltage rating should be. That's definitely connected to +12V via the PCI-E slot. So you might be able to get away with a good ±20% tolerance 10V 3.3µf cap(±20% tolerance would mean it's good to run @ 8-12V). Or just stack 3 or 4 of those 50V 1µf caps. I'm not sure which route is the better option. Or if either route is overkill anyway(in which case either way would be more than good enough).

EDIT: Nope. I was wrong, on 2 levels. Those are 10V 10µf ±20%. And you don't want to use a 10V rated ±20% cap at all. Because the ±20% refers to the capacitance, not the voltage. So they wouldn't be good at 12V constant. 50V 1µf looks to be the best you can get. Best I can find anyway.
 
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Considering its age it might be within warranty it will depend on the OEM. Vendors like ASUS go via serial so it should be fine but again depends on who the OEM was ASUS / MSI / Sapphire etc.

Depending on OEM you might get lucky with an RMA and get a newer card instead.
 
MrGenius said:
It's just a cap. It's not rocket science. Just get one of the same type and size and replace it. If you want to stay on the "safe" side, replace it with one that has the highest voltage and capacitance ratings you can find. It's a graphics card, so it's not going to be needing anything rated for more than 12V. And my google fu tells me that the capacitance of those little buggers is typically 1µf or less(much less in fact). So there's your answer. 12V 1µf will almost certainly be sufficient(or likely more than sufficient). If you want to stay on the "extra safe" side, stack a couple(or more) of them on there. More is always better(voltage rating and µf). It's not enough that you need to worry about. And by worry I mean worry about it dying/needing replaced again sooner than it should.
Click to expand...

If you know how to solder then it's a quick fix.
Did one a few weeks ago for someone on another forum, robbed a cap from a dead GPU and soldered it in.... That was it.
Took me about 5 minutes to get it done from start to finish.
Since his card's cap was already missing (He knocked it off with a screwdriver) I had to "Guess" and use photos of cards like it as reference to match it up, did that and the card is working fine now.

I have seen these caps do come in different shades/tints of brown, match that up as close as possible along with it's size and such, you'll be fine as long as that's the only problem it has.
 
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Btech said:
I bought the card second hand so warranty is sadly not an option.
Click to expand...
i beg to differ, some companies do offer 2nd hand warranties. i have a 2nd hand 390X that was RMA'ed and replaced and i wasnt the original owner.
 
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AlienIsGOD said:
i beg to differ, some companies do offer 2nd had warranties. i have a 2nd hand 390X that was RMA'ed and replaced and i wasnt the original owner.
Click to expand...

Woudn't hurt to ask - Worst that can happen is for them to say no.
 
Bones said:
Woudn't hurt to ask - Worst that can happen is for them to say no.
Click to expand...
I dealt with Asus for my 390x and they were more then willing to help
 
Unless you have a good soldering station and other equipment, find an electronics repair store and have them solder a new one on. Shouldn't cost much.
 
In my experience Asus has been good to me (So far), sure things can change and there is no guarantee each time you ask but certainly woudn't do any harm to do so if it's an Asus card.

I was able to fix the card I mentioned earlier because I have such a setup like mentioned above, desoldering wand (Air) and a 70W soldering iron.
All I can add is the setup has paid for itself several times over.

@ the OP:
I would be happy to do as I did for the guy that had a similar problem with his card BUT you'd probrably be better off getting someone local to do it - Would be quicker and probrably cheaper even if I did it (And would) like I did the other one. All I had them do cost-wise was cover the cost of shipping it back to them from here, didn't ask for anything over doing it but they gave me a little something for my time anyway, was certainly appreciated.

EDIT:
I'll add SOMETHING caused the cap to blow, don't be suprised if it's fixed and then it just goes out again.
 
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I figured you would and should be a quick fix.
Just match it up by size, shade of color and (Hopefully) it will work without further issues.
 
I sheared off almost a whole row like that trying to twist my Titan XP cooler off (way too much factory thermal paste was glueing it on). I managed to get them back on, but it's pretty messy. My advice is to watch the solder pads! If they burn off you are done for.
 
so i replaced the capacitor, but the card is still not working. seems like there was more broken than the burned cap.
 
Btech said:
so i replaced the capacitor, but the card is still not working. seems like there was more broken than the burned cap.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be surprised if the cap burned because of an issue somewhere else on the card. I bet something went short circuit in the VRM.
 
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