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Ghetto Mods

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Its use case dependent or specific, I made use of about 2 to 3 mm ball size of it that sticked on the tip of a screwdriver . Super easy to spread and I used it on both sides of the module.
Results after some desktop idle between 1 to 2 minutes is 0C with the back plate being cold to the touch and whilest loaded see pic attached.
 

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Went with two 120mm fans. They're attached with copious amounts of zip ties...



It may not be pretty, but it's much quieter now. Still need to test temperatures.

When the heatsink this is designed to operate with 90mm fans the use of 120mm this is a non benefits delivering decision.
Getting 90mm pair of fans with 35mm body this it would increase air-steam among with air-stream noise, such a setup will also require manual speed control due external controller.
This is what I would do if I were staying at high ambient temperature climates 37C or higher.
 
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When the heatsink this is designed to operate with 90mm fans the use of 120mm this is a non benefits delivering decision.
Getting 90mm pair of fans with 35mm body this it would increase air-steam among with air-stream noise, such a setup will also require manual speed control due external controller.
This is what I would do if I were staying at high ambient temperature climates 37C or higher.
I was wondering why thermals were painfully unimpressive with the two 120s. I live in north-central Arizona, and outside temperatures have been around 37-40C (ambient indoors has probably been around 27-30C) during the day.

I ultimately ended up getting an ARCTIC Accelero X3 which performs significantly better than this and the stock cooler both in thermals and acoustics. Though I may return to ghetto modding by adding normal 92mm case fans to it like this guy did...

 
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Why? It's very effective in many use-case-scenarios.
Power hungry, poor handling of high heat loads, risk of condensation, issues with keeping the hot side cool, etc.
 

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My frankenmod monitor, I took old LCD from old LG W2343 23 inch LCD to replace my 24 inch that have two vertical lines, it started to get on my nerves. The old 23 inch panel is upside down if compared to 24 inch ones so I just left the ribbon dangling on top of the housing. Funny thing is even though the new monitor is 24 inch IPS and the old one is 23 inch TN panel, the pinout is the same (both made by LG so its compatible).

monitor.jpg


So what I do on the front to cover up the half inch difference? Duct tape :D I tested it on my windows xp rig using HDMI to DVI adapter (see above pics) and the DP is for my primary gaming rig. Hey even GSync still working haha :laugh:

ducttape.jpg
 
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My frankenmod monitor, I took old LCD from old LG W2343 23 inch LCD to replace my 24 inch that have two vertical lines, it started to get on my nerves. The old 23 inch panel is upside down if compared to 24 inch ones so I just left the ribbon dangling on top of the housing. Funny thing is even though the new monitor is 24 inch IPS and the old one is 23 inch TN panel, the pinout is the same (both made by LG so its compatible).

View attachment 164874

So what I do on the front to cover up the half inch difference? Duct tape :D I tested it on my windows xp rig using HDMI to DVI adapter (see above pics) and the DP is for my primary gaming rig. Hey even GSync still working haha :laugh:

View attachment 164875
If it works who cares if it looks wonky. Kind of a badge of honor anyway. It says: "It looks janky, but I fixed this, saved it from the garbage and saved myself a chunk of money! Hell Yeah!"
 
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If it works who cares if it looks wonky. Kind of a badge of honor anyway. It says: "It looks janky, but I fixed this, saved it from the garbage and saved myself a chunk of money! Hell Yeah!"
That's right, I just got back on holiday and after seeing my bank balance I just say F this and just mod this monitor. Well worth it, even my wife surprised it worked :laugh:
 

dorsetknob

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who the hell solders a cmos battery to a motherboard
Answer Tos...shiba
when it dies............ a soldering iron and a hot glue gun to the rescue

ps its a new replacment i had lying around
before and after
IMG_3500.JPG
IMG_3501.JPG


Oh yeh and a dab of hot glue to back of battery to Fix it in place and stop it moving
After all its a laptop :) don't want it moving and disconecting itself :)
 
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I used some stainless steel wire to tie a Noctua NF-A9 fan to a Wraith Max for my vServer. It runs very quiet.

90356680_2746030962113484_2659321459079380992_n.jpg90511620_1111390659222001_5061171250945064960_n.jpg90238071_889558571559141_2358912570015875072_n.jpgIMG_20200505_095153.jpg
 
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Made replacing a battery in a PS2 Slim a little easier and cheaper too - No need to screw around trying to find and paying more for those "Other" batteries.
Also replaced a bad ribbon cable to the diskdrive. :D

Coin cell mod - PS2 Slim.JPG
 
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I made another one. Replaced the noisy 30mm 6000rpm fan on my Gigabyte X570 I AORUS PRO WIFI wit a nice and quiet Noctua NF-A3x20 PWM:




signal-2020-09-23-154910_003.jpeg signal-2020-09-23-155002_002.jpeg
The original contraption made by Gigabyte was absolut shit, my SSD had 60°C in idle and always went into thermal throtteling after a minute of writing. It had the SSD between two heatspreaders, but with a 3mm air gap on both sides.



signal-2020-09-23-155307.jpeg
I put a cheap M.2 cooler on the SSD, without any thermal grease, just mounted by two rubber bands.



signal-2020-09-23-155338.jpeg signal-2020-09-23-155418.jpeg
I made a 3D printed adapter to mount the fan above the SSD, using the original threaded holes in the chipsets' heatspreader. And then screwed the fan onto that. The yellow cable is an adapter I bought from aliexpress that converts the (gpu like) micro 4 pin fan connector to a regular 4 pin fan connector.

The fan is really quiet and the ssd is about 44°C in idle mode now. No more throtteling!
 
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NOCTUA C14 with integrated "Soldered IHS" = Ultra Thin IHS Version

When it comes to heat transfer I started to take a closer look. I wanted to understand when user(s) state they CPU hit for example 60c PLUS why can't I feel such heat on the heatpipe. The heatpipe is supposed to be very hot to the touch at 60c+,
so I did this experiment to find out why it is not hurting my finger.

This heatsink is set-up for the 939 platform, but can be config back to normal for "AMD processes only" that are delidded.
Heat transfer is faster than "every single user(s)" out there that use thermal paste.

This heatsink is extremely difficult to set-up. You can't just screw it down, because you have to manage the tilt on the CPU die,
ie, it's not easy to get it sitting flat on the CPU die. This is the reason for a revisit to this "Ultra Low Profile Version".

LM is "Phobya" which I feel is the best LM out there. It's the way it bonds to the surface of die & IHS.


Noctua C14.jpg
 
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NOCTUA C14 with integrated "Soldered IHS" = Ultra Thin IHS Version

When it comes to heat transfer I started to take a closer look. I wanted to understand when user(s) state they CPU hit for example 60c PLUS why can't I feel such heat on the heatpipe. The heatpipe is supposed to be very hot to the touch at 60c+,
so I did this experiment to find out why it is not hurting my finger.

This heatsink is set-up for the 939 platform, but can be config back to normal for "AMD processes only" that are delidded.
Heat transfer is faster than "every single user(s)" out there that use thermal paste.

This heatsink is extremely difficult to set-up. You can't just screw it down, because you have to manage the tilt on the CPU die,
ie, it's not easy to get it sitting flat on the CPU die. This is the reason for a revisit to this "Ultra Low Profile Version".

LM is "Phobya" which I feel is the best LM out there. It's the way it bonds to the surface of die & IHS.


View attachment 171449
Did you actually solder the IHS to the base of the heatsink? If so, how did you manage that (especially without destroying the heatpipes)?
 
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