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Help me cool my PC!

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System Name Eric's Battlestation
Processor Core i7 6700k
Motherboard GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
Cooling Corsair Hydro H60
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3200
Video Card(s) SAPPHIRE RX Vega 56 (64 BIOS Flash-mod)
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#1
Hi guys! Right now I'm looking at redoing my cooling setup; two 140mm intakes in the front and a push-pull outtake on the Corsair H60 120mm. I just bought a Fractal S24 240mm cooler and I'm debating where to go. I am considering putting the new cooler in the front with the included fans as intakes. Then I'll take the 140s and use one as an intake on the bottom and the other on the rear as an exhaust. Another option I'm considering is keeping the 140s in the front and using the included radiator fans as exhausts on the block. Then I could buy another two 140s and like before put them on the bottom and back. Last but least, I could throw the cooler on the top as exhaust and keep the 140s on the front. I want to maintain positive pressure if at all possible so I can reduce the incoming dust. Any feedback is appreciated.
 
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#2
If I were you, I would put the two 140s in the front for intake ,and then have a push or pull exhaust over the radiator. If your CPU is warmer than it should be, simply reverse the set up ,and intake with either a push or a pull over the radiator, and exhaust with the 2- 140 mm fans at the front or top. I use bold for "or" because p+p is a wasted fan, one or the other is sufficient except for a VERY specific set of conditions
 
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Location
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System Name Eric's Battlestation
Processor Core i7 6700k
Motherboard GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
Cooling Corsair Hydro H60
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3200
Video Card(s) SAPPHIRE RX Vega 56 (64 BIOS Flash-mod)
Storage Samsung 850 EVO 1TB, Corsair GT 120GB, Corsair GTX 240GB
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#3
If I were you, I would put the two 140s in the front for intake ,and then have a push or pull exhaust over the radiator. If your CPU is warmer than it should be, simply reverse the set up ,and intake with either a push or a pull over the radiator, and exhaust with the 2- 140 mm fans at the front or top. I use bold for "or" because p+p is a wasted fan, one or the other is sufficient except for a VERY specific set of conditions
I see, thank you. Do you have any advice how either of those setups would affect my Vega GPU? That thing struggles against heat, so I am think a bottom intake blowing towards it should help somewhat.
 
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#4
I see, thank you. Do you have any advice how either of those setups would affect my Vega GPU? That thing struggles against heat, so I am think a bottom intake blowing towards it should help somewhat.
I've never personally owned that particular video card, but if it is a concern in terms of the temperatures it generates, then you should either have an exhaust fan near it ,or an equally powerful exhaust set up to keep up with it. If you are using 2- 140 mm for intake, and two 120 mm for exhaust, you could switch that set up around, if you think the heat inside the case is an issue, by increasing exhaust strength you may find temperatures to be more suitable. Ultimately there's no right or wrong answer, it's fairly easy to test the set up ,one way or the other, I'd recommend trying it the way I suggested , see if the heat is a problem, if it is switch it up to a different set up
 
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#5
Wait wait

Have you checked another factors, like airflow, thermalpaste, and how you applied them

Push pull is the better way since it maintain the airflow, but if i have to choose, i prefer push
 
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Cooling Corsair Hydro H60
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3200
Video Card(s) SAPPHIRE RX Vega 56 (64 BIOS Flash-mod)
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#6
I've never personally owned that particular video card, but if it is a concern in terms of the temperatures it generates, then you should either have an exhaust fan near it ,or an equally powerful exhaust set up to keep up with it. If you are using 2- 140 mm for intake, and two 120 mm for exhaust, you could switch that set up around, if you think the heat inside the case is an issue, by increasing exhaust strength you may find temperatures to be more suitable. Ultimately there's no right or wrong answer, it's fairly easy to test the set up ,one way or the other, I'd recommend trying it the way I suggested , see if the heat is a problem, if it is switch it up to a different set up
Will do on the testing when I have time to. Vegas are easily thermal throttled or at least the blower types are. I'm concerned that the hotter air coming from the radiator will cause the temps to rise, that's why I want a fresh intake beneath it. I've even considered getting a Meshify C case instead of my R5 to see if the extra airflow will help. Right now the only thing that really causes noise in my build is the Vega 56 when it spins up past 2K RPM.
 
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#7
Push has advantage at lower rpms... up to about 1500 rpm. Pull has an advantage at 1800 and above .... its generally a tossup in the middle but will depend upon specific pairings . Adding an additional fan will increase air flow from 10 - 30% depending on the setup and speeds.... (all this per martinsliquidlab published testing).

Couple of other water cooling rules....

Min pump flow = 1.0 gpm ... more has minimal impact
Never mix aluminum and copper materials
RAD fans ALWAYS blow in... no exceptions...ever
Air blowing in must be greater than air blowing out
Inefficient aluminum rads require extreme speed (noisy) fans

The H100i / Kraken X61 was measured to have a flow of only 0.11 gpm. The Swiftch AIO is > 1.0 gpm

If you are familiar with boating, you have heard the term "sacrificiail anode" where by the anodesorrodes away and gives it's life fo other metal components don't corrode. In a water loop, the aluminum rad is the sacrificial anode and over time the sacrificed ions form crud which builds up in the water block channels.

Outiside air is going to be cooler than the inside air.... with 33C coolant, what wil cool it better 23C air or 26C air ? if the concern is getting heat out of your case, what are you trying to protect ... is there anything in there that is bothered by 26C ?
Corsair's published instructions say "For best performance" have the fans on radiators as intakes. I don't know why but most CLC users feel they know more than the folks who sell and support it or the OEM who makes it. Prolly because of 8th grade earth science when we learned 'hot air rises' .. it does, but not when fan blowing other way.

As I understand it, Option 1 is ...

-2 fans on rad air blowing in behind intake filters; the flters can increase air flow by up to 30% so EF (Equivalent Fans = 2 x 0.7 = 1.4 EFs
-2 fans in P/P blowing out no restriction EF = 1 + 20% = 1.2 fans out
-1 fan blowing out EF = 1.0
-1 fan blowing in EF= 0.7

Total In = 1.4 + 0.7 = 2.1 EF
Total Out = 1.2 + 1.0 = 2.2 EF

Granted the 30% is an estimate based upon testing w/ moderate dust on filters and yours may be better or worse ... but you have slightly negative case pressure

Under Option 2

Total In = 1.4 (front) + 0.7 (bottom) = 2.1 EF
Total out = 2.0 (cooler) + 1.0 (rear) = 3.0 EF

You have negative pressure. The problem w/ NP is not so much the dust, but when it exists, its is inatke air comming thru case openings that balances the NP created by the fans. The most likely place is the rear of the case where those slotted card covers are and that big rear grille ... and what is the source of ai back there ? ... all that hot air exhausted by your 650 watts PSU and 300 watt GFX card ... you are now sucking that hot air exhaust right back into your case. This is very easy to test with a $29 fog machine on amazon.

Had we communicated earlier, i would have suggested a non aluminum AIO but not a CLC from EK or Swiftech with a GFX card waterblock and extra rad in front. But too late for that. With what ha planning....

-New cooler on top blowing in as per Corsair's instructions.
-(2) Fans in front blowing in EF = 1.4
-(2) fans in front blowing in EF = 1.4
-(1) fan in rear blowing out EF = 1.0

That's 2.8 blowing in cool air and 1.0 blowing out at top rear with 1.8 fans worth of air being forced out thru rear case grille leaving you with significant positive case pressure, no dust, and more importantly, no way for hot card / PSU exhaust to get back in. Could add two on bottom if ya wanna go crazy (blowing in)
 
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