High pitched noise coming out of the speakers when moving the mouse

[Octopuss]

No it's not, I am not registered anywhere and simply opened it.

https://clearesult5.sharepoint.com/:b:/s/PLS/ERuKFSP6pABLkq_zbiRIjKEBvIxbIQBmLHiRcrLQo6oIPg

Mayb this works.

 

[looniam]

Half the people in this thread didn't pay attention to shit I wrote up to three times in a row ffs!

I still have no idea what ITHD means and you didn't explain that once, and no, the linked thread doesn't explain it either.
I am not buying a new soundcard, I am not buying new speakers, I am not buying fucking anything new unless I find out something is broken or faulty, which doesn't seem likely.
This is my PSU and I have no idea what that means. It's 80+ Gold, which means it's good and that's all I care about. Prove me it's causing the problem and I might start looking into alternatives.

Someone suggested I connect the PC case to the amp somehow in relationship to grounding and I wasn't explained how exactly was I supposed to do that.

get yourself a decent wire, got any old lamps around? just something decent enough.
strip some insulation off (duh) and loosen one of the four screws on the back of the psu, then use the other end and find a screw on the amp chassis that looks to be "biting in metal" and do the same. (yeah wrap a little wire around the screw.)

the goal is to have the screw copper wire contacting as much metal as possible.

feel me?

 

[Octopuss]

Yep.
So basically connect the cases just like I thought at first.

 

[Deleted member 211755]

Try switching you amp power to a different circuit than your computer.

Optical is a good suggestion, so is casting over wifi.

As Auer said, you should try switching to another circuit then your PC. Just to break down where is the cause of this noise. Could help you narrow it down.

 

[Octopuss]

I have just tried that. The cracking and mouse buzz noises are gone, but there's different constant noise now, but at least it seems to be related to something else.
I'll try buying different PSU to see if it makes any difference.

 

[TheLostSwede]

Maybe try one of these first? It's a much cheaper thing to buy.

Amazon.com: RF Choke 31500 Ferrite Filter Core Material 31 Mix ID 1/2" 13mm : Electronics

Buy RF Choke 31500 Ferrite Filter Core Material 31 Mix ID 1/2" 13mm: Noise Filters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Auer]

As Auer said, you should try switching to another circuit then your PC. Just to break down where is the cause of this noise. Could help you narrow it down.

I have just tried that. The cracking and mouse buzz noises are gone, but there's different constant noise now, but at least it seems to be related to something else.
I'll try buying different PSU to see if it makes any difference.

Try unplugging appliances in your house too, I had a friend that worked in a radiostation and one day they had a new "Hum" thru the studio monitors.
After 3 days they tracked it down to a new PC 3 floors down.

As both an "audiophile" and former stage tech I learned to hunt things down first by simply eliminating things before I throw money at filters (mostly garbage) and new componenets (mostly unnecessary).

 

[Octopuss]

Maybe try one of these first? It's a much cheaper thing to buy.

Amazon.com: RF Choke 31500 Ferrite Filter Core Material 31 Mix ID 1/2" 13mm : Electronics

Buy RF Choke 31500 Ferrite Filter Core Material 31 Mix ID 1/2" 13mm: Noise Filters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

That's an interesting thing. Probably worth a shot.


I have just accidentally discovered something.
I have my PC plugged in an UPS and the amp in the same (double) socket.
When I disconnect the UPS from the socket, the noise instantly goes away, so it must be the PC sending some crap into the "network". Same thing when I connect the amp to a different circuit. The other (new) noise is gone then too.

 

[Auer]

That's an interesting thing. Probably worth a shot.


I have just accidentally discovered something.
I have my PC plugged in an UPS and the amp in the same (double) socket.
When I disconnect the UPS from the socket, the noise instantly goes away, so it must be the PC sending some crap into the "network". Same thing when I connect the amp to a different circuit. The other (new) noise is gone then too.

Try plug in your PC without the UPS. Remove the UPS completely. Cheaper ones can cause hum, because of the battery and charger circuits.
Edit: A powerstrip/surge protector can cause hum too.

 

[Octopuss]

Try plug in your PC without the UPS. Remove the UPS completely. Cheaper ones can cause hum, because of the battery and charger circuits.
Edit: A powerstrip/surge protector can cause hum too.

That's one of the first things I tried. No change.

 

[Ahhzz]

So, fellow members.... Some of you in this thread are a bit... hostile. Please tone it down, and rethink approaches, from all sides. Anyone who continues at any point, to respond in an overly aggressive mood, will find their future participation in the thread removed.

Take a breath, take a step back, and then try again, with a little less...venom . Tons of useful information in this group! You people are smart., Just sometimes have a bit of an issue interacting without being condescending heheh. Thanks!

 

[Octopuss]

I could sit at the 80plus database for half a year and still not get through all the pages, and there's no guarantee a PSU with low "ITHD" would even make a difference.
This is just pointless.

 

[mtcn77]

10%.

 

[Octopuss]

Yep I can read too. That's my PSU.
Everything I found in the db (that's currently on the market) thus far ranged from 10 to 20+

 

[mtcn77]

Yep I can read too. That's my PSU.
Everything I found in the db (that's currently on the market) thus far ranged from 10 to 20+

Not my problem, if I can hear the same noise in my 5% THD Seasonic, so can you. No need to play coy.

 

[eidairaman1]

Half the people in this thread didn't pay attention to shit I wrote up to three times in a row ffs!

I still have no idea what ITHD means and you didn't explain that once, and no, the linked thread doesn't explain it either.
I am not buying a new soundcard, I am not buying new speakers, I am not buying fucking anything new unless I find out something is broken or faulty, which doesn't seem likely.
This is my PSU and I have no idea what that means. It's 80+ Gold, which means it's good and that's all I care about. Prove me it's causing the problem and I might start looking into alternatives.

Someone suggested I connect the PC case to the amp somehow in relationship to grounding and I wasn't explained how exactly was I supposed to do that.

Ok put a bond wire from the case to a ground on the amp, and from the motherboard to the case.

 

[Octopuss]

I did the case-amp part, no change (I think I already wrote that).
The mb is already screwed to the case so no need for that.

 

[Bill_Bright]

The logic behind setting the software volume (OS or program) to max or near max has to do with preserving dynamic range.

NO! Preserving the dynamic range is the logic to set the volume somewhere in the middle, not maxed out. Also, distortion levels tend to be higher when levels are maxed out and components risk being overdriven.

What happens when the input level of the audio coming into the OS software control is already at or near the maximum level? You have already depleted any headroom you might have had and you risk introducing even more distortion.

"IF" sound were digital from beginning to end, none of this would likely matter. But sound is analog. Period. It starts out as analog and it hits our ears as analog. In fact, there is no such thing as digital sound. While you can certainly max out a digital audio signal and not affect dynamic range or distortion (if done properly), that signal must ultimately be converted back into analog. And that's where you need the dynamic range and minimum amounts of distortion. Or else, high fidelity it is not.

 

[Operandi]

NO! Preserving the dynamic range is the logic to set the volume somewhere in the middle, not maxed out. Also, distortion levels tend to be higher when levels are maxed out and components risk being overdriven.

None of this maters with modern software because of up sampling before its output but from a logical perspective if you have a range of -96 to 0 dba anything "-" is cutting down the dynamic range of the source, you'll never get it back its gone forever. Modern OSs take care of that though so you don't loose quality, so yeah whatever I guess.

Now if the audio driver is boosting beyond 0dba at max volume then yeah you could run into clipping but thats shit software then, it shouldn't be doing that. Basically its like looniam said, it depends on the setup.

Old Superuser discussion for further reading.

 

[Octopuss]

The ferrite thing didn't do anything.
I clipped it on the power cable directly in front of the PSU.

 

[InVasMani]

Try a ferrite core on the mouse cable itself near the USB end connecting to the PC input. My mouse came with one on it, but I'm not so certain they all do. Is it all devices connected to that USB port or just the mouse?

You can also in your MB bios try enabling spread spectrum as well which reduces RF.

 

[Caring1]

Try plugging the amp in the UPS too, or changing the polling rate of the mouse up or down.

 

[InVasMani]

For starters try to isolate and narrow down the problem itself better. Sometimes just the speaker wire placement itself can pickup interference from other devices like a power strip. That isn't always the case, but has been known to happen. Try a different USB port itself as well if possible. Also try asking Alexa to stop causing a mic feedback loop with it's covert embedded hardware.

 

[Octopuss]

It's not caused by the mouse.
I already wrote that before.
Spread spectrum was discussed here as well.

Come on, try reading past first and last posts in a thread

 

[InVasMani]

Keep calm and try turning it off and on again. Didn't work try to pin down the problem diagnosing possible issues that could cause problems. You might try some of the following examples below. I can understand the frustration, but don't get upset at me or others that I didn't read thru 4 pages of discussion while trying to provide possible things to check with your original post description. If it was already discussed fine ignore it and try something else that comes along that wasn't.

Try different USB ports and/or disabling USB ports in device manager.

Various bios settings like FCLK/FSB or spread spectrum.

If it's a discrete add in card PCI/PCIE try re-seating the card also make sure the card is securely fastened a loose screw and the pins not making good contact could cause issues.

Check amp/speaker connectors SPDIF/RCA/banana plugs all of it on both ends ensuring they aren't loose somewhere either same thing.

Volume level and gain level can be entirely separate and different things less gain more volume for a cleaner louder signal.

Possibly try message signaling interrupts and check IRQ to ensure two devices are competing for the same one can be very important with audio.

Something as simple as unplugged mic cable end touching another part can cause hum. If you aren't using a mic I'd recommend just disabling it in sound control panel.

Ensure the ample works properly in the first place outside of the PC system.

Check if the PC systemis the source of the problem. If it is narrow down which part of the system it's coming from by narrowing down possibilities that aren't the problem.

If the speakers are part of the system ensure they aren't the problem could be a loose connection at one end or another.