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How do i get my CPU down in temperatures ?

If possible I’d try and get the h511, but are there not any other shops you can order from? This one doesn’t seem very thoughtful.
 
Not sure why there have to be 4 pages about how to cool a CPU....
 
If possible I’d try and get the h511, but are there not any other shops you can order from? This one doesn’t seem very thoughtful.
There is, the reason why ive stuck with this shop, is because they are the cheapest in my country and i was very happy with my old pc from them (it lasted 8 years and it was only the last year i had problems with it and that was because of bad maintenance from me) so i guess its a mix of their prices and loyalty to their shop. But would the H511 be good enough ? Its also important that my hardware will fit in the case, because not all hardware fits in all cases right ?

Not sure why there have to be 4 pages about how to cool a CPU....
There probably doesnt have to be, i just like to hear everyones opinion before making a choice, so that i dont make a choice i regret and then have to spend more time on this, its already annoying me alot that i just bought a pc and now i have to do upgrades for it to work the way i want it to ..
 
I see your point. But what about the holes on the side of the front ? That cant help ?
Nope. At least not with comically powerful fans that can create enough suction to move enough air through them. We're talking about 38 or 50.8 mm fans. Normal PC fans can't pull enough air through those holes to make a difference. I have a few, they're so loud you have to wear ear protection inside the room, if you've ever used one of those tiny I think 4 1/2" angle grinders that spin at 15K RPM, that's how they sound, constantly.

I can only say whoever designed that case has absolutely no idea on how fans work. That's what happens when you hire designers rather than engineers to do a job, it's like with interior designers and electrical work, they do everything with the looks in mind but it's an absolute nonsensical nightmare when it's time to route the wires.

this is a link to the shop: https://topdata.dk/shop/443-top-prime/ they only have 3 different cases from NZXT and it looks like they sold me the shittiest one, because their best pc's comes with a upgraded case of the one i have NZXT H511 FLOW BLACK
That's the thing. All cases from NZXT are shitty, lol. Flow is just a gimmick, the overall design is still terrible.

i just had to change the CPU cooler, then people told me i needed 2 intake front fans aswell, but now i might have to get a new case aswell and then 2 intake front fans
The downsides of a prebuilt. It's often the case or the power supply that suck, or both, that's the rule.
The good thing is that you don't have to do all of that, at least not at the same time. Users who suggested a new CPU cooler haven't read that you're using a NZXT case or simply decided to ignore it, oh and you really don't need a huge $100 cooler for an F-series CPU because it makes no sense, an entry level cooler is enough IF the case is decent.

Here's a cheap case with good airflow

It's not from a "known" brand but hey, it'll do the job. I'm not a big fan of transparent side panels but I couldn't find one in my taste for less than $100.

Here's a cooler.

I've used this cooler before but not the "RGB" version, I used it to cool an FX-8370 and it never went over 80C so I'd say it's pretty good considering it's only 20 bucks. The non-RGB version is cheaper and comes with a simple black fan.

And for the front fans for the case... there's no need to use Noctua fans that cost $50/ea. that makes no sense, I know there's a lot of shilling in forums for brands like Noctua but their products aren't even that good, I get my fans from a local electronics components store for about $5 for 120x25mm 1600RPM fans, they come with 3-pin cables and can be controlled via voltage from any motherboard made in the last 25 years.
Cooled 3 graphics cards with them and considering the price they're superb stuff. You might not find something that cheap in your country but my point is that you don't have to spend $100 in two fans just because of a brand like some people suggest.

The links I provided are from US Amazon because I couldn't find amazon.dk but see if you can find those parts in local sites or an european site that offers shipping to Denmark.
 
@BossSiggy
You can buy one of these and fill it with water. Throw an aquarium pump inside.

Your 12700k cpu is 125w.
Is you buy the 30x60cm bucket, it can hold 42liters of water.

Internal heat capacity of water is 4182 J/kg°C
Joule is 1 watt per second
You can run your cpu at full load without any fans for near 10 hours before your water goes from ambient 25° to 50°

Q=mcΔθ
42x4182x(50-25)=4391100
4391100joules/125watts=35128seconds
35128seconds/3600=9 hours 45 mins 28 seconds

In this custom loop, you would need no radiators, and the reservoir is that stainless steel bucket I linked.
 
take the case side off and put a desk fan facing in the case, if the temp of 118c does not change , then the temps sensor is not being read right or is not working.
 
Nope. At least not with comically powerful fans that can create enough suction to move enough air through them. We're talking about 38 or 50.8 mm fans. Normal PC fans can't pull enough air through those holes to make a difference. I have a few, they're so loud you have to wear ear protection inside the room, if you've ever used one of those tiny I think 4 1/2" angle grinders that spin at 15K RPM, that's how they sound, constantly.

I can only say whoever designed that case has absolutely no idea on how fans work. That's what happens when you hire designers rather than engineers to do a job, it's like with interior designers and electrical work, they do everything with the looks in mind but it's an absolute nonsensical nightmare when it's time to route the wires.


That's the thing. All cases from NZXT are shitty, lol. Flow is just a gimmick, the overall design is still terrible.


The downsides of a prebuilt. It's often the case or the power supply that suck, or both, that's the rule.
The good thing is that you don't have to do all of that, at least not at the same time. Users who suggested a new CPU cooler haven't read that you're using a NZXT case or simply decided to ignore it, oh and you really don't need a huge $100 cooler for an F-series CPU because it makes no sense, an entry level cooler is enough IF the case is decent.

Here's a cheap case with good airflow

It's not from a "known" brand but hey, it'll do the job. I'm not a big fan of transparent side panels but I couldn't find one in my taste for less than $100.

Here's a cooler.

I've used this cooler before but not the "RGB" version, I used it to cool an FX-8370 and it never went over 80C so I'd say it's pretty good considering it's only 20 bucks. The non-RGB version is cheaper and comes with a simple black fan.

And for the front fans for the case... there's no need to use Noctua fans that cost $50/ea. that makes no sense, I know there's a lot of shilling in forums for brands like Noctua but their products aren't even that good, I get my fans from a local electronics components store for about $5 for 120x25mm 1600RPM fans, they come with 3-pin cables and can be controlled via voltage from any motherboard made in the last 25 years.
Cooled 3 graphics cards with them and considering the price they're superb stuff. You might not find something that cheap in your country but my point is that you don't have to spend $100 in two fans just because of a brand like some people suggest.

The links I provided are from US Amazon because I couldn't find amazon.dk but see if you can find those parts in local sites or an european site that offers shipping to Denmark.
If you have to wear ear protection then no thanks haha, i want my pc to be quiet and its already a little to loud, because i manually changed fans to go 100% work function 20 degrees celcius before what they were set to before.

Yeah its 2023 and apparently you can still get bad designed cases for functionality, i never thought that this was going to be a problem when i bought the pc, but i guess some people care more about design when buying a pc and i care about design aswell, but functionality is more important to me, it.

its not pre build, you can make changes, but not the case, but you can change the cooler, hd, cpu, motherboard, rams, bluetooth, wifi and other stuff when buying the pc.

the problem is i dont want to touch hardware myself, so either the shop i buy from has to come up with something or i have to find a different shop where they can help me, i just hope the shop im buying from now can come up with something, because they are the cheapest in my country and i dont want to spend to much more time on this either to be honest, i was already suposed to be done with this when i bought the pc, you know what i mean ?

The h510 flow is actually a pretty decent case, particularly when you add a third fan
okay thats good to hear, i'll have to check this video out later when i have more time

@BossSiggy
You can buy one of these and fill it with water. Throw an aquarium pump inside.

Your 12700k cpu is 125w.
Is you buy the 30x60cm bucket, it can hold 42liters of water.

Internal heat capacity of water is 4182 J/kg°C
Joule is 1 watt per second
You can run your cpu at full load without any fans for near 10 hours before your water goes from ambient 25° to 50°

Q=mcΔθ
42x4182x(50-25)=4391100
4391100joules/125watts=35128seconds
35128seconds/3600=9 hours 45 mins 28 seconds

In this custom loop, you would need no radiators, and the reservoir is that stainless steel bucket I linked.
lmao

take the case side off and put a desk fan facing in the case, if the temp of 118c does not change , then the temps sensor is not being read right or not working.
you mean AUXTIN2 and TMPIN6 ? i dont have a desk fan, is there any other way for to check this ?

The h510 flow is actually a pretty decent case, particularly when you add a third fan
I just checked the video i can see that you can get cheaper cases that are at the same lvl, but i really dont want to use another shop and as he is saying if you have a good enough reason for yourself to buy this case then go for it, its a good case, just to expensive.
 
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I don’t know what to tell you if you’re unwilling to go to other shops… There are dozens of better cases in the market, but if they only offer these two cases, the flow is the better one. FWIW it’s not bad, just not great and yes, overpriced (all of NZXT’s stuff is).
 
I don’t know what to tell you if you’re unwilling to go to other shops… There are dozens of better cases in the market, but if they only offer these two cases, the flow is the better one. FWIW it’s not bad, just not great and yes, overpriced (all of NZXT’s stuff is).
Well im gonna change the CPU and give the shop a chance to solve my problem, if they cant, then i gave them a chance and will find another shop
 
whats the point of helping when you dont want to touch your hardware anyways?
Just buy a expensive cooling solution or let the shop fix your temperatures as a warranty issue.

My guess is reapplying thermal paste and rescrewing the fan and ramp up the fan would solve the issue

Ofc, if you are really up to fixing it by software you can check this out, i dont know what this is but maybe a good hint to start with probably someone on this forum can help you too
1674509990332.png
 
...so my question is if there is any way for me to get my CPU down in temperature without changing the cooler, without loosing performance and my pc being to loud

The answer to this question is a very simple: UV... there are enough guides how to do that on the internet.
 
I havent used it with the side panel removed, but i also smoke and have a dog, so im doubting thats a good idea ? Alot of people are saying get 2 intake fans, so maybe i will do that, but i already have 1 at the top and 1 rear, you think i one more at the top ?
I meant that as a short term test to the question "Is your current cooler good enough?".
If your temp is fine with side panel open, that means you probably can be saved by those intake fans, a custom ventilated side panel (should cost ~USD$40), or you probably should just buy a new goddamn case.
If the temp is still not fine, you need a new CPU cooler anyway regardless of cases.

Frankly, both the dreaded stock cooler and the dreaded NZXT H510 case is not helping the CPU temp. The openings on the front of the H510 is just too narrow to provide enough airflow to the current higher-end CPU/GPU out there.
 
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whats the point of helping when you dont want to touch your hardware anyways?
Just buy a expensive cooling solution or let the shop fix your temperatures as a warranty issue.

My guess is reapplying thermal paste and rescrewing the fan and ramp up the fan would solve the issue

Ofc, if you are really up to fixing it by software you can check this out, i dont know what this is but maybe a good hint to start with probably someone on this forum can help you too
View attachment 280596
Wether i touch the hardware myself or the shop does it, i still need to know what needs to be done right ? Now you will probably say that the shop could me with that, but all they are saying is that they will change my CPU to a new i7 12700F for free and want me to put BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 (ULTRA SILENT LUFTKØLER) on it, but from what im hearing in forums that might not be good enough.

is it possible to put it under the warranty ? I mean ofcourse i can always try, but no one else have mentioned that and they are changing the CPU for free to a new 12700F, so its not like anything is ''broken'' after they change the CPU ?

my CPU is a 12th gen CPU and not a 13th gen, would this still apply then ?

The answer to this question is a very simple: UV... there are enough guides how to do that on the internet.
Ive been googling how to get cpu temperatures down in BIOS, how to get CPU temperatures down etc. And spend hours on troubleshooting, but most of the stuff i have already tried and it havent helped or helped very little, wich is why im here.

I meant that as a short term test to the question "Is your current cooler good enough?".
If your temp is fine with side panel open, that means you probably can be saved by those intake fans, a custom ventilated side panel (should cost ~USD$40), or you probably should just buy a new goddamn case.
If the temp is still not fine, you need a new CPU cooler anyway regardless of cases.

Frankly, both the dreaded stock cooler and the dreaded NZXT H510 case is not helping the CPU temp. The openings on the front of the H510 is just too narrow to provide enough airflow to the current higher-end CPU/GPU out there.
yeah i just watched this video so front intake fans wont help with this case, but i also saw this: https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/set-up-pc-case-fans-for-airflow-and-performance so maybe underneath, but someone on another forum also told me about he's friend that have almost same setup (i7 12700K with this cooler BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 and a bad airflow case like mine) and he's only hitting low 7x's, even with OC, running heavy load and gaming, he did do some undervolting though, so i might just have to do some undervolting and get that CPU cooler.

I meant that as a short term test to the question "Is your current cooler good enough?".
If your temp is fine with side panel open, that means you probably can be saved by those intake fans, a custom ventilated side panel (should cost ~USD$40), or you probably should just buy a new goddamn case.
If the temp is still not fine, you need a new CPU cooler anyway regardless of cases.

Frankly, both the dreaded stock cooler and the dreaded NZXT H510 case is not helping the CPU temp. The openings on the front of the H510 is just too narrow to provide enough airflow to the current higher-end CPU/GPU out there.
this is what he said: From you description, you probably got the Intel stock cooler on there which is fine for an i3-12100, but really isn't strong enough for a 12700F. The Pure Rock 2 will do much, much better, especially if you don't push it to 100% all the time. In fact, I know of at least one 12700K, so the somewhat stronger version of that CPU, being cooled by that very same cooler (with undervolting for long-term high workloads, which isn't the case for either gaming nor anti virus; it averages between 50-60°C gaming with maybe a jump to 71 now and then, which is not a problem), which also works in a somewhat airflow restricted case. It even handles a mild overclock fine, which isn't a thing on your chip. Alder Lake is really good at undervolting, btw. -100mV seems to be no issue for basically any 12700 and is more than enough. But again, if you only game, none of that is at all necessary since the CPU shouldn't get close to 100% load.
 
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Ive been googling how to get cpu temperatures down in BIOS, how to get CPU temperatures down etc. And spend hours on troubleshooting, but most of the stuff i have already tried and it havent helped or helped very little, wich is why im here.

My answer was based on the fact you were asking for a free of charge solution to your problem.

It's rather strange that you can't get the temperatures down by undervolting your CPU, even with a very basic cooler, which probably is the number one limiting factor. Especially when you consider PC World being able to run an R9 7950X with a cooler from 2007 - video can be found on their YT channel. Yes, I know you are using a different CPU - but it's a fitting comparison.

I have to guess and my guess is: Bad mounting of the cooler and bad airflow maybe paired with bad luck in silicon lottery.

After taking your latest comment into account I would have told you the following right from the start: You will not be able to solve the problem without paying a price. Performance, more noise, time or even spending money on either new thermal paste, a new CPU cooler, a new case or even everything mentioned.
 
My answer was based on the fact you were asking for a free of charge solution to your problem.

It's rather strange that you can't get the temperatures down by undervolting your CPU, even with a very basic cooler, which probably is the number one limiting factor. Especially when you consider PC World being able to run an R9 7950X with a cooler from 2007 - video can be found on their YT channel. Yes, I know you are using a different CPU - but it's a fitting comparison.

I have to guess and my guess is: Bad mounting of the cooler and bad airflow maybe paired with bad luck in silicon lottery.

After taking your latest comment into account I would have told you the following right from the start: You will not be able to solve the problem without paying a price. Performance, more noise, time or even spending money on either new thermal paste, a new CPU cooler, a new case or even everything mentioned.
It might have sounded like i just wanted people to solve my problem for me without doing anything myself, but believe ive spend many hours on google, different homepages, being on the phone multiple times with the shop im buying from, in settings, BIOS, etc. Before making this post, this post is my last hope before i start spending money.

I havent undervolted yet, im actually trying to do that right now, i dl Intel XTU, but i think the areas i need to touch are greyed out, i will have to look up how to undervolt with Intel XTU. Yeah i think my biggest problem is my CPU cooler aswell and the fact that there might be something wrong with my CPU, then a shitty case with shitty airflow and other stuff aswell, like maybe bad thermal paste.

im not expecting not to use any money at all, i have to go and get my CPU changed no matter what, wich will cost transport, then im getting this cooler BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 (ULTRA SILENT) and if thats not enough, im probably gonna find another shop with better cases and move everything into a new case with way better airflow.
 
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I havent undervolted yet, im actually trying to do that right now, i dl Intel XTU, but i think the areas i need to touch are greyed out, i will have to look up how to undervolt with Intel XTU. Yeah i think my biggest problem is my CPU cooler aswell and the fact that there might be something wrong with my CPU, then a shitty case with shitty airflow and other stuff aswell, like maybe bad thermal paste.

The fact you are on a non-k variant is the problem. I think you should no longer waste the time and effort on trying to tweak a CPU that is much more "complicated" to be used outside of stock settings right out of the box when the problem (high temperatures) will be fixed by you getting a better cooler either way.

It might have sounded like i just wanted people to solve my problem for me without doing anything myself

Never saw it that way, just wanted to provide a suggestion that was on point of your demand. It's reasonable to get a free-of-charge solution.
 
The fact you are on a non-k variant is the problem. I think you should no longer waste the time and effort on trying to tweak a CPU that is much more "complicated" to be used outside of stock settings right out of the box when the problem (high temperatures) will be fixed by you getting a better cooler either way.
Yeah i gave up Intel XTU, i looked through all settings and couldnt find anything that made it possible for to undervolt in there, then googled cant undervolt with Intel XTU and looked through 3 different sites, some saying that because of something called Plundervolt, then i found something with going back in BIOS version and then you can make it work, but i dont think that sounds like a good solution, so now im trying to figure out if i can do it with ThrottleStop and the interface in there is more confusing, so i read a guide, but i couldnt touch the stuff to undervolt in there either, so now im reading another guide to see if there is any way around it, otherwise i have to do it in BIOS or give up on it, the thing is i read that there is more good stuff about undervolting, obviously less temperatures, but also less electricity bill lol and then it should be able to increase performance somehow aswell ? But maybe im just waisting my time, its just annoying multiple people told me to undervolt, but then when i ask ''how'' they dont reply back.
 
Yeah i gave up Intel XTU, i looked through all settings and couldnt find anything that made it possible for to undervolt in there, then googled cant undervolt with Intel XTU and looked through 3 different sites, some saying that because of something called Plundervolt, then i found something with going back in BIOS version and then you can make it work, but i dont think that sounds like a good solution, so now im trying to figure out if i can do it with ThrottleStop and the interface in there is more confusing, so i read a guide, but i couldnt touch the stuff to undervolt in there either, so now im reading another guide to see if there is any way around it, otherwise i have to do it in BIOS or give up on it, the thing is i read that there is more good stuff about undervolting, obviously less temperatures, but also less electricity bill lol and then it should be able to increase performance somehow aswell ? But maybe im just waisting my time, its just annoying multiple people told me to undervolt, but then when i ask ''how'' they dont reply back.

I switched from intel and have no experience with Alder Lake but from what I read browsing mainly reddit for information on how to UV an 12700F the only option is through BIOS.

As a stop-gap-measure open the side panel and put a fan (the ones you use to cool yourself, not case fans ;) ) in front of your PC. Just don't get to close, some do have quite a strong magnetic field.
 
As a stop-gap-measure open the side panel and put a fan (the ones you use to cool yourself, not case fans ;) ) in front of your PC. Just don't get to close, some do have quite a strong magnetic field.
Unfortunately i dont have any fans. Do you by any chance know if its only the K version of 12th gen that be undervolted ? I just saw that in a post, but that just seems weird ? i know i cant OC, but i dont understand why undervolting should be a problem ?
 
Unfortunately i dont have any fans. Do you by any chance know if its only the K version of 12th gen that be undervolted ? I just saw that in a post, but that just seems weird ? i know i cant OC, but i dont understand why undervolting should be a problem ?

It's all current available intel non-k CPUs... next time you build a PC buy AMD ;)
 
I switched from intel and have no experience with Alder Lake but from what I read browsing mainly reddit for information on how to UV an 12700F the only option is through BIOS.

As a stop-gap-measure open the side panel and put a fan (the ones you use to cool yourself, not case fans ;) ) in front of your PC. Just don't get to close, some do have quite a strong magnetic field.
I might just do it in BIOS then, that was also my plan to begin with, i just thought having a program for it would be better, so that i didnt have to restart after each UV.
 
I might just do it in BIOS then, that was also my plan to begin with, i just thought having a program for it would be better, so that i didnt have to restart after each UV.

I cross fingers you get the result you are looking for and that you will have fun while doing so.
 
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