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How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

Hi!

I'm planning on doing this to my EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC. It has the most absurd coilwhine I've ever heard. Its like a song with different notes and instruments, extremely annoying.

The problem is, the chokes are tightly packed between components and I don't think I can get in between the chokes even with a needle tip (Which I was gonna be using regardless).
How would I approach this specific card?

It is watercooled and I've heard removing the back plate can help, but I truly don't really see how this would matter. (If anyone could shine some light on that one, thank you :P)
 
xBHx said:
Hi!
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Hi there! Welcome to TPU!

xBHx said:
The problem is, the chokes are tightly packed between components and I don't think I can get in between the chokes even with a needle tip (Which I was gonna be using regardless).
How would I approach this specific card?
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Take photo's, a few wide shots and a few close up. This would be helpful for offering suggestions for application of the CA glue.

xBHx said:
It is watercooled and I've heard removing the back plate can help, but I truly don't really see how this would matter. (If anyone could shine some light on that one, thank you :p)
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It couldn't hurt to try. Backplates are often for minor cooling but also for rigidity and are usually harmless to remove.
 
lexluthermiester said:
Hi there! Welcome to TPU!


Take photo's, a few wide shots and a few close up. This would be helpful for offering suggestions for application of the CA glue.


It couldn't hurt to try. Backplates are often for minor cooling but also for rigidity and are usually harmless to remove.
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Uploaded a picture of the PCB in question. Mines still in use waiting for about 3 years of custom parts piled to finally rebuild my pc (Scared I might fry something because I've dabbled in external radiators with custom power delivery solutions)

As per the glue, I landed on the 'Everbuild stick2' variation -> High viscosity. This should work fine right?

Sorry for all these questions, but I'd rather not force myself into buying a 4090 well above MSRP of 2 years ago.

EDIT: I also plan on putting as much thermal putty between the LR22's. The idea is to fill the space and hopefully it'll be harder to move when they're all a single block. If that makes sense.

​

 

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xBHx said:
EDIT: I also plan on putting as much thermal putty between the LR22's. The idea is to fill the space and hopefully it'll be harder to move when they're all a single block. If that makes sense.
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Don't do that. Only use as much TIM as you need.

Give me a little bit and I'll repost your photo with indicators as to where to apply glue.

EDIT:
Done. All of the red highlight parts should be sealed.
Additionally, use the fine tip applicator nozzle to squeeze in CA glue into the space between the coils as indicated by the red dots in the photo.
xBHx01.jpg
 
lexluthermiester said:
Done. All of the red highlight parts should be sealed.
Additionally, use the fine tip applicator nozzle to squeeze in CA glue into the space between the coils as indicated by the red dots in the photo.
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Understood, I'll hit them from the flanks and hope it'll connect in the middle :D

I attached a picture of what I meant by filling the gaps with the lr22's. Its the space between them, on the sides. I will be using a normal thermal pad as instructed with the block, been working good for temps anyways :D The way I see it, the less movement possible, the better.
But just want to cover all bases and perhaps get some feedback on it, as it seems like a tedious thing to do, and possibly pointless when glue is already being used.

I do really appreciate the help, I believe I could actually cry out of happiness if the coilwhine is gone or drastically reduced, its so bad.
 

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lexluthermiester said:
And how would we apply any one them? Sure, put the stuff on in the factory before the parts are soldered in place and we can call it a great solution. Not so much post-consumer delivery. None of those compounds have a wicking action while liquid that allows them to seep into the spaces inside the coil and into the spaces where the coil housing meets the PCB.

Any adhesive that has wicking action before curing, that is PH neutral(or close to it) and chemically inert once cured would work as a great solution for this problem. No wicking qualities, it's going to be difficult(cumbersome) to work with and much less effective.
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Use a curved tip irrigation syringe and qtips with alcohol to keep clean appearance, pack it in like grease in a bearing.
 
lexluthermiester said:
Yeah, but how many people will have the skills to give that a go? CA glues are very easy, wick very well and work like a charm.
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If there's a will there's a way, I'm only suggesting another possible solution to this annoying problem.

Fyi it took me time to get good at sealing bushing flanges, I guess you've never packed grease in bearings before though.
 
eidairaman1 said:
I guess you've never packed grease in bearings before though.
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Sure I have, but such an activity is not something everyone is going to tackle. It's not something I'm going to make a guide for to solve a problem like this. CA Glues are mostly easy for anyone and cleans up well with some fingernail polish/acetone.
 
Has anyone tried this with the 5080 FE? I'm finding the coil whine on it be super constant every time I scroll or move my mouse around and even worse in gaming.
 
lexluthermiester said:
What do you mean?
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the stuff I've used here in NZ is crap it either takes an age to harden or just doesn't want to glue two things together it also won't stick skin to skin unless you wait 5 minutes for it to go off
 
Athlonite said:
the stuff I've used here in NZ is crap it either takes an age to harden or just doesn't want to glue two things together it also won't stick skin to skin unless you wait 5 minutes for it to go off
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You folks must have some very poor quality CA glue or you're buying a crap brand. The stuff here has only been made stronger over the last few decades.
 
lexluthermiester said:
I have for decades been using a very easy, quick and, most importantly, permanent fix. This fix works 95% of the time to quiet the noise to the point that it is not audible more than 8inches/20cm away. The rest of the time, the noise is barely audible.
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I have an MSI Gaming Trio 4090, and I don't want to RMA it (weeks without a card? No thanks). Does this look right, lex?
 

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lexluthermiester said:
You folks must have some very poor quality CA glue or you're buying a crap brand. The stuff here has only been made stronger over the last few decades.
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Agreed. No doubt there are some cheap knock offs that probably should be avoided, if possible.

But I note cured strength, curing time and materials it is effective on is also a matter of intentional design. Super glue comes in a variety of formulas specifically intended for different applications. So maybe the problem is, insufficient homework before buying. I'm just saying... .

I note this Bob Vila article on super glue listed the best (in their testing, anyway) for different applications. For example, there are formulas listed for ceramics, metal, plastics, glass, fabric, rubber.

Also it is probably best to stick with the major, well known brands like Gorilla, 3M, Loctite, Scotch and Elmer's Krazy Glue.
 
Aph0tic said:
I have an MSI Gaming Trio 4090, and I don't want to RMA it (weeks without a card? No thanks). Does this look right, lex?
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Yup, that looks good. Remember to take your time and use only what you need to seal up the edges. You can always add more later, but it can be unpleasant to remove too much.
 
Bill_Bright said:
Agreed. No doubt there are some cheap knock offs that probably should be avoided, if possible.

But I note cured strength, curing time and materials it is effective on is also a matter of intentional design. Super glue comes in a variety of formulas specifically intended for different applications. So maybe the problem is, insufficient homework before buying. I'm just saying... .

I note this Bob Vila article on super glue listed the best (in their testing, anyway) for different applications. For example, there are formulas listed for ceramics, metal, plastics, glass, fabric, rubber.

Also it is probably best to stick with the major, well known brands like Gorilla, 3M, Loctite, Scotch and Elmer's Krazy Glue.
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Love this guy:
Which Super Glue Brand is the Best? Let's find out!
 
I'm planning to do this operation on a second hand HP 840 G6 I bought recently. It's a very quiet laptop otherwise, sadly coil whine is very annoying. It's basically linked to CPU turbo, when the clock speed increases or fluctuates, you can hear coil whine clearly. I have Windows/Linux in dualboot and under Windows, there is coil whine even when moving mouse in the browser. I identified the most offending inductors in the picture below. Originally I thought the problem will be with only one (on the far left), but using a cone method I confirmed it's more widespread. Are there any peculiarities for laptops with this method, or it doesn't matter?

840g6.jpg
 
elcrys said:
I'm planning to do this operation on a second hand HP 840 G6 I bought recently. It's a very quiet laptop otherwise, sadly coil whine is very annoying. It's basically linked to CPU turbo, when the clock speed increases or fluctuates, you can hear coil whine clearly. I have Windows/Linux in dualboot and under Windows, there is coil whine even when moving mouse in the browser. I identified the most offending inductors in the picture below. Originally I thought the problem will be with only one (on the far left), but using a cone method I confirmed it's more widespread. Are there any peculiarities for laptops with this method, or it doesn't matter?

View attachment 392399
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I've highlighted 5 more. You don't want to miss them.
840g6-additional.jpg

Remember, vibrational resonance can travel through various materials in ways that are not always expected or intuitive.
 
Thanks for the hint. I will treat all of them, just to be sure. In the meantime I got some super glue. I bet you've never heard about these brands :) (me neither) Mostly you can get here (Czech Republic) consumer Loctite glue (gel and non-gel variant), but I was avoiding this brand as suggested in this thread. Besides that, there's plethora of no-name brands. One shop owner told me he doesn't stock non-gel glue anymore, in another shop I got these (the top one has a gel variant too). I will proceed with the operation during the weekend and then report back how it went.

glue.jpg
 
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