How to relubricate a fan and/or service a troublesome/noisy fan.

[lexluthermiester]

I used silicone on my RPi 4 cooling fan. It was creaking and groaning terribly. 2 drops and it was spinning faster and quieter than the other one. It said, "feed me too." So they're now immensely more effective. PS: Don't use silicon. It's very abrasive. lol

Excellent info! OP updated.

I just used 10W-40 motor oil that I use in my car. I've used fine machine oil commonly used for sewing machines, but it was too liquid and tend to sip out of the fan and spray on the frame of the fan from the inside.

That's the base for what I use. Bearing oils need to have some viscosity and body to them.

why lube it. Just replace. Noctua costs not more than 20$

Because it's very wasteful? It's a waste of money, needlessly adds to landfill problems and is just overall a bad idea. Repair & Reuse is what is environmentally friendly. The throw-away school of thought is one of the many reasons we have so many problems in this world. Servicing and repairing the things we own is smarter and wiser.

Fully synthetic motor oil works great although in theory non-detergent oil is better.

I can't agree with this. I've been using detergent oils for decades with no ill effect. If you think about it, the additives work to enhance and improve the qualities and performance of the oils their included in, such can only be of benefit to fan bearings.

Six fans at $20 a shot really adds up.

Even the very excellent and more budget friendly brands, like Acrtic and Thermalright for example, still adds up even want you buy multipacks.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Excellent info! OP updated.

Ummm, check your edits, Lex. You got it bass ackwards. @*8088 said he uses silicone (with an "e") and don't use silicon (no "e"). Your edit comment says, "Do not use based silicone (with an "e") lubricants!"

 

[lexluthermiester]

Ummm, check your edits, Lex. You got it bass ackwards. @*8088 said he uses silicone (with an "e") and don't use silicon (no "e"). Your edit comment says, "Do not use based silicone (with an "e") lubricants!"

The edit is appropriate and correct. They likely just mis-spelled in their comment. Regardless, it's something that applies and should have been pointed out originally.

 

[Bill_Bright]

So you are saying *8088 has it backwards? Confused then your by "Excellent info!" comment.

 

[lexluthermiester]

So you are saying *8088 has it backwards? Confused then your by "Excellent info!" comment.

They they're saying that silicone lubes are not good for tasks such as fan bearings. I am agreeing with that statement, thus the edit. How are you confused by this?

 

[Shrek]

I can't agree with this. I've been using detergent oils for decades with no ill effect. If you think about it, the additives work to enhance and improve the qualities and performance of the oils their included in, such can only be of benefit to fan bearings.

There is a logic: Detergents are added to keep dirt in solution so it can be caught by the engine filter, but if there is no filtering it is better not to keep dirt in solution.

 

[Bill_Bright]

You are right - I am totally confused.

They they're saying that silicone lubes are not good for tasks such as fan bearings.

No. Just the opposite. He specifically said,

I used silicone on my RPi 4 cooling fan. It was creaking and groaning terribly. 2 drops and it was spinning faster and quieter

now immensely more effective

One of us is confused. If me, please show me where?

 

[lexluthermiester]

There is a logic: Detergents are added to keep dirt in solution so it can be caught by the engine filter, but if there is no filtering it is better not to keep dirt in solution.

There's some merit to that, but that is not the only function. Some of those detergents work to improve lubricity and protect the metal friction surfaces. These are qualities that are of benefit.

You are right - I am totally confused.


No. Just the opposite. He specifically said,


One of us is confused. If me, please show me where?

You might be right. It's possible I misunderstood them. Base on the sentence structure of the comments, I got the impression they were being sarcastic. Thus the "PS".

Let's let them chime in and clarify.

Either way, the edit to the OP is valid. Silicone lubricants are not ideal for fan bearings and should be avoided.

 

[Shrek]

There's some merit to that, but that is not the only function. Some of those detergents work to improve lubricity and protect the metal friction surfaces. These are qualities that are of benefit.

As I understand it (and Tribology is something of an art) the detergents don't contribute to protection and can accelerate oxidation if they cause suds, but I would be the first to confess to being confused.

That said, I also use (synthetic) motor oil for my fans and while I use silicone oil for computer connections, I would avoid it for bearings, exactly because of the missing additives.

 

[lexluthermiester]

As I understand it (and Tribology is something of an art) the detergents don't contribute to protection and can accelerate oxidation if they cause suds

That might be possible. Have always used synthetic motor oils which all have detergents of some variation. I've never seen oxidation though. Given the stainless steel nature of the bearing parts I can't imagine it'll ever be something to worry about.

 

[bobbybluz]

I've had several decades of dealing with small motors and bearings going back to my beginnings in slot car racing in the early 60's. I wound my own armatures and learned about the different types of bearings available for them back then. The bushings with oil embedded in them would eventually eat into the armature shafts and get sloppy plus ruin the armature. Ball bearings were a vast improvement but extremely affected by dust, dirt and wearing tire decomposition. Adding oil to them actually made them worse. Then sealed bearings came out and they lasted far longer. The sealed bearings varied greatly in cost and quality. The really good ones were also very expensive. We commonly used 3-In-1 oil for them back then but found out under heat and stress it turned into a greasy sludge.

I quit for several years and when I went back I was working for Marquette University School of Engineering maintaining all of their lab equipment. We had two large centrifuges that required a very special oil. It was a petroleum product, a very light brown in color, a viscosity slightly thicker than water and the label said it was made in 1957. The company had gone out of business by that time so the gallon container was quite precious to me. It worked fantastically in Unlimited Group 7 and Group 27 slot car motors. Unless you've seen and heard one they defy belief. Astoundingly high RPM's under extreme temperatures, never a bearing failure using the ancient centrifuge oil in them. It was one of my motor building secrets. This was before the days of synthetic lubricants. When I left I took one quart of it with me and was heartbroken when I finally used the last of it. I quit racing for good shortly after that because of other factors.

Wear and contamination are the biggest enemies of motor bearings. Improper lubricants only make those conditions worse. For computer fan motors the best lubricant, in my experiences, is the small amount of very light oil left after emptying a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 5W-30. There's only about one tablespoon per container and it's so good I also use it for the bronze bushings in electric box fan motors. It doesn't cause nearly as much wear or retain debris like countless other lubricants I've tried over the years. A tiny amount is best, just enough to get the motor spinning again as it did new. Too much will bog the motor down plus retain dust and debris from bearing wear. When this happens it's like using valve grinding compound instead of a proper lubricant. This is my own personal experience in 63+ years of working with small electric motors and bearings.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I've had several decades of dealing with small motors and bearings going back to my beginnings in slot car racing in the early 60's. I wound my own armatures and learned about the different types of bearings available for them back then. The bushings with oil embedded in them would eventually eat into the armature shafts and get sloppy plus ruin the armature. Ball bearings were a vast improvement but extremely affected by dust, dirt and wearing tire decomposition. Adding oil to them actually made them worse. Then sealed bearings came out and they lasted far longer. The sealed bearings varied greatly in cost and quality. The really good ones were also very expensive. We commonly used 3-In-1 oil for them back then but found out under heat and stress it turned into a greasy sludge.

I quit for several years and when I went back I was working for Marquette University School of Engineering maintaining all of their lab equipment. We had two large centrifuges that required a very special oil. It was a petroleum product, a very light brown in color, a viscosity slightly thicker than water and the label said it was made in 1957. The company had gone out of business by that time so the gallon container was quite precious to me. It worked fantastically in Unlimited Group 7 and Group 27 slot car motors. Unless you've seen and heard one they defy belief. Astoundingly high RPM's under extreme temperatures, never a bearing failure using the ancient centrifuge oil in them. It was one of my motor building secrets. This was before the days of synthetic lubricants. When I left I took one quart of it with me and was heartbroken when I finally used the last of it. I quit racing for good shortly after that because of other factors.

Wear and contamination are the biggest enemies of motor bearings. Improper lubricants only make those conditions worse. For computer fan motors the best lubricant, in my experiences, is the small amount of very light oil left after emptying a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 5W-30. There's only about one tablespoon per container and it's so good I also use it for the bronze bushings in electric box fan motors. It doesn't cause nearly as much wear or retain debris like countless other lubricants I've tried over the years. A tiny amount is best, just enough to get the motor spinning again as it did new. Too much will bog the motor down plus retain dust and debris from bearing wear. When this happens it's like using valve grinding compound instead of a proper lubricant. This is my own personal experience in 63+ years of working with small electric motors and bearings.

Interesting info. Much of that simply doesn't apply to PC fans. Most PC fans are sleeve bearing types and benefit greatly from being serviced when they dry out. Ball bearing types need servicing less often but still benefit from cleaning and relubrication. Sealed fluid bearings are sealed and can't be serviced, but they're also very expensive as much as they are reliable.

Thinking I'll stick with the very effective methods I've been using for 3 decades now.

 

[Shrek]

For computer fan motors the best lubricant, in my experiences, is the small amount of very light oil left after emptying a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 5W-30. There's only about one tablespoon per container

I also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but not the 'last tablespoon'

 

[Dr. Dro]

I also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but not the 'last tablespoon'

I use this to lubricate the wheels on my sliding window, works like a charm. Synthetic engine oil is amazing if you need any mechanism to slide smoothly, even if it's (more than just a bit) rusted. I use that on my ambient fans, too. For computer fans, I like to use Singer all-purpose machine oil, same kind you use on sewing machines to keep them running smooth. Quick drop of this and it'll spin another couple of years.

Interesting info. Much of that simply doesn't apply to PC fans. Most PC fans are sleeve bearing types and benefit greatly from being serviced when they dry out. Ball bearing types need servicing less often but still benefit from cleaning and relubrication. Sealed fluid bearings are sealed and can't be serviced, but they're also very expensive as much as they are reliable.

Thinking I'll stick with the very effective methods I've been using for 3 decades now.

Have you come across any fans that were actually worth disassembling to re-lubricate lately? The last few I purchased, other than the hyper expensive Noctuas, were such junk that it wasn't worth my time

 

[KLiKzg]

I have honestly used vegetable oil in a pinch. On a 120x38 that I have.. thought it might help.. sure attracted a lot of dust until it all spun out

Do not use that, as this is also very abrasive to plastics.

I also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but not the 'last tablespoon'

This would also be my choice...as 10W-40 is way too thick for the job...so 0W or 5W would be far more better!

That might be possible. Have always used synthetic motor oils which all have detergents of some variation. I've never seen oxidation though. Given the stainless steel nature of the bearing parts I can't imagine it'll ever be something to worry about.

Not sure that those bearings are stainless steel...of they were, they would be very soft...from the point of metallurgy.

 

[freeagent]

Do not use that, as this is also very abrasive to plastics.

120x38 Panaflo did not care.

 

[KLiKzg]

I've had several decades of dealing with small motors and bearings going back to my beginnings in slot car racing in the early 60's. I wound my own armatures and learned about the different types of bearings available for them back then. The bushings with oil embedded in them would eventually eat into the armature shafts and get sloppy plus ruin the armature. Ball bearings were a vast improvement but extremely affected by dust, dirt and wearing tire decomposition. Adding oil to them actually made them worse. Then sealed bearings came out and they lasted far longer. The sealed bearings varied greatly in cost and quality. The really good ones were also very expensive. We commonly used 3-In-1 oil for them back then but found out under heat and stress it turned into a greasy sludge.

I quit for several years and when I went back I was working for Marquette University School of Engineering maintaining all of their lab equipment. We had two large centrifuges that required a very special oil. It was a petroleum product, a very light brown in color, a viscosity slightly thicker than water and the label said it was made in 1957. The company had gone out of business by that time so the gallon container was quite precious to me. It worked fantastically in Unlimited Group 7 and Group 27 slot car motors. Unless you've seen and heard one they defy belief. Astoundingly high RPM's under extreme temperatures, never a bearing failure using the ancient centrifuge oil in them. It was one of my motor building secrets. This was before the days of synthetic lubricants. When I left I took one quart of it with me and was heartbroken when I finally used the last of it. I quit racing for good shortly after that because of other factors.

Wear and contamination are the biggest enemies of motor bearings. Improper lubricants only make those conditions worse. For computer fan motors the best lubricant, in my experiences, is the small amount of very light oil left after emptying a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 5W-30. There's only about one tablespoon per container and it's so good I also use it for the bronze bushings in electric box fan motors. It doesn't cause nearly as much wear or retain debris like countless other lubricants I've tried over the years. A tiny amount is best, just enough to get the motor spinning again as it did new. Too much will bog the motor down plus retain dust and debris from bearing wear. When this happens it's like using valve grinding compound instead of a proper lubricant. This is my own personal experience in 63+ years of working with small electric motors and bearings.

Signing everything here.

Though, the best kind of bearings are "air bearing", as they use stream of air to levitate...but that equipment needs to run 24/7 in order to work properly!

 

[lexluthermiester]

Have you come across any fans that were actually worth disassembling to re-lubricate lately?

Oh yeah, servicing fans is something I do on a regular basis. One or two a month, on average.

The last few I purchased, other than the hyper expensive Noctuas, were such junk that it wasn't worth my time

I won't question your judgment on that. I'll service any fan that runs, especially if new/extra lube will help it's operation and/or performance.

This would also be my choice...as 10W-40 is way too thick for the job...so 0W or 5W would be far more better!

0W is too thin to last very long in a fan bearing situation and 5W is better, but also too thin to last a long time. They don't "stick" to the bearing surfaces as well and often bleed off from centrifugal force. Ask me how I know..

Not sure that those bearings are stainless steel...of they were, they would be very soft...from the point of metallurgy.

I've never seen a bearing set that isn't some sort of metal that resists corrosion. Most are steel of some stainless variety. The "softness" doesn't enter into the equation as we're talking about friction stress loads that are very minor in the great scheme of things.

 

[Shrek]

I thought that fan bearing sleeves were sintered bronze and so held oil between the particles.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I thought that fan bearing sleeves were sintered bronze and so held oil between the particles.

Some of them likely. Depends on the maker. The shaft is unlikely to be anything other than steel.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Either way, the edit to the OP is valid. Silicone lubricants are not ideal for fan bearings and should be avoided.

I am not comfortable with that as a blanket statement. Silicone lubricants are commonly used to lubricate all sorts of electric motor bearings, including fan motor bearings. Silicone-based lubricants have excellent heat-resistant and lubricating properties and are compatible (non-reactive) to many materials used in motors.

but still benefit from cleaning and relubrication.

To me "cleaning" is by far, the most important, most pertinent, and the most valuable piece of advice anyone has given in this whole 8 page (so far) thread.

Generally speaking, when it comes to lubrication, there are two types of motors. One is designed to be relubricated and therefore, has integrated in the design, methods to do so. For grease, there should be a grease fitting. For lubricants that flow, there should be some sort of access port with a removeable cap. Clearly, these type motors are not found in computers - in part, because they leak. Not good for electronics.

When relubricating (or adding more lube) to motor bearings, it is critical to add the same formula lubricant as required by the manufacturer. This is to prevent the new, potentially incompatible lubricant from breaking down the old, or failing to blend thoroughly, resulting in a new mixture that now has degraded lubricating properties.

The other type of motor is sealed and NOT intended to be relubricated. But industrious, capable users don't always do what product makers intend for us to do. And that's fine, if we know what we are doing and safety is not an issue.

One important point to note (and not forget) here is when fan motor bearings start to make noise, that means excessive wear (which "IS" minor irreparable damage) has already happened. These bearings (and the channels they run in) are no longer perfectly round or smooth. Cleaning and relubricating will extend the life, but not indefinitely. Relubricating is a temporary solution. Worn bearings will continue to wear because they are no longer perfectly round, or smooth. The noise will return and/or the motor will seize, sooner or later.

The second important point is the same as above. When relubricating a sealed motor, the same lubricant should be used to avoid one contaminating and/or breaking down the other.

Now, back to my point. Computer fan makers never (AFAIK) publish the lubricant's specs, Therefore, when relubricating a fan's bearings, it is critical to thoroughly clean out the old lubricant before adding your new - to avoid such contaminations, incompatibilities and breakdowns. A good scrubbing with electrical Contact Cleaner and a acid brush typically works good for that.

Also, thoroughly cleaning out the old lubricant is critical because it has already been contaminated by the "grit" and other particles that, through friction, were worn off the bearings and bearing channels. I mean there's no filter in there to replace, right?

Once thoroughly clean, at that point, IMO, as long as the new lubricant is designed for small motor use, the type of lubricant matters little, if any. You can use silicone based, lithium based, or petroleum based. But not corn or canola based oils.

I HATE FAN NOISE. So when one of my fans starts to grind and rumble, I start my research for replacement fans. In the meantime, my first "temporary" solution to keep me from going insane is to slow down its rotation speed, if possible. If I need more time until delivery, I will peel back the seal, clean and re-lube. But I know replacement is the only real "fix".

Six fans at $20 a shot really adds up.

True but what are the odds all six fans need replacing all at once?

 

[lexluthermiester]

I am not comfortable with that as a blanket statement.

Gonna be direct here, I don't care. I've used them previously, they didn't work very well and provided zero cushioning effect to account for the empty spaces between the bearing shaft and the sleeve. For ball bearings, that might be a difference story as there are very different mechanisms used to facilitate motion. For sleeve bearings, that aspect is not acceptable.

Additionally, not all silicone lubricants are made equal and there are as many variations as there are days in the year. One needs to be very knowledgeable about what type works best in what situation and that is not useful to the point of this thread and the application it prescribes.

Simple consumer based petroleum oils are what works best, are easy to understand, easy to use, widely available and inexpensive. While some are better than others, all of them will work as intended.

Not going to continue debating this point. The guide posted in the OP was created with a specific goal in mind and will stay the way it is.

 

[RejZoR]

I have honestly used vegetable oil in a pinch. On a 120x38 that I have.. thought it might help.. sure attracted a lot of dust until it all spun out

Issue with vegetable oil is that it gets sticky over time.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Issue with vegetable oil is that it gets sticky over time.

And degrades. Veggy oil belongs in the kitchen, not the PC.

 

[freeagent]

I know.. It was a terrible idea. I was trying to quieten industrial fans when I was new to industrial fans lol..

Thought maybe they needed some lube.. nope.. they are just loud..

I got those fans in 2006 and used them until ~2021ish when I got sick of hearing them.

They absolutely blow away any consumer fan that I have used, except maybe 140mm iPPC 3k might come close.. but I have a 90x35 that is stronger than that iPPC lol..