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My new card was "run over" by a car.

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Honestly, the damage there doesn't look too bad really. With a steady hand and some patience it could be fixed. Though whether the rest of the card functions or not afterwards is anybody's guess.

Considering that it's a $700+ card makes it worth the attempt for repair at least before chucking it.
 

qubit

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You risk blowing up the entire system you'd want to try it with.
No telling what shape the card's PCB is in aside from what's pictured, even if you fix what's seen there could be some other unknown damage to it that a simple visual inspection may not catch.

Chunking it is probrably the safest thing to do here.
^^ This. I wouldn't bother playing around with it either.

Just get the money from the insurance and buy new hardware.
 
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Cleaning up corrosion (or whatever that crud is,) removing old solder, dropping new capacitors and resistors in with fresh solder, and maybe routing back/exposing a trace (which is all that I can see,) isn't such a big deal for someone with high skill or very expensive equipment. But you do need one or the other... ...though I don't know that too many people could do it with a hardware store heat-gun (or even the cheap ones made for soldering) and cheap iron/tips... ...let alone could microsolder decently without a microscope.... ...which realistically if you're gonna do it for less than the card costs new, is gonna be roughly your situation.

I mean, if you can find somebody who's familiar with these particular cards, has the skill, and the equipment (proper soldering setup, microscope, and hot air blower at a minimum,) who's willing to do it for say $100-$200 I'd say go for it. They'll probably charge at least that much for the time and just being among the few who even offer the service. The challenge is gonna be finding that person. I would not attempt to do it yourself. It's not a DIY job.

The real issue is, what you see isn't all there is. You can't just look at a surface-mount PCB and figure out what connects to what - circuits are spread all across the board through traces you can't see, meaning you also can't always test for things that may look good but actually aren't working together properly. No way to just know how it all goes together and makes a working system, even with schematics. Without that in hand, actual troubleshooting is nearly impossible. In order to really fix stuff like this, you need to understand how the circuits work, and what conditions to look for via testing. You need schematics, time, knowledge, and a brain. Your average person has at least two of these four things, but not often more. You may have more, you may not. I'm not judging! :p

I dunno, just my opinion. It could be simple if you're lucky, but a lot of times board repair is far more of an endeavor than it looks to be at first. There is a reason why people who are very intelligent and experienced in electronics repair have often said that surface-mount circuits are virtually non-repairable. They aren't, it's just really hard and often not even worth the time lol. I guess if all you can do is toss it, try to track down a schematic and a donor board and have at it. You do need the exact donor if you go this way - that way you know exactly what goes where and you have exactly the right components. Still, I'd be really leery about testing it in a system I cared about...
 
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^^ This. I wouldn't bother playing around with it either.

Just get the money from the insurance and buy new hardware.

Yeah I agree trying to get the correct smd components, have steady steady hands, correct sanitation practice and proper mounting is time consuming possibly wasteful of money your own money so I hope that the insurance company grants you the money to recover and get a new card.

Send a picture to buildzoid over at actually hardcore youtube page, see what he thinks
 
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I'll just say if it were my card I'd actually go for it and see.... But since it's not I cannot suggest that to the OP.

I have several setups that could be used to test it with and if one goes "Poof" no big deal. I don't know if the OP has just one, a few, several or many setups so I'm not going to say to try something risky like this even if the visible damage is repaired, instead I say to use proper caution.
I could fix it since I have the equipment but again there could be damage that's hidden, only revealed with a smoke test and that means putting something at risk.

Getting the parts for me isn't a problem either with all the dead stuff I have here, my issue would be the inherent risk, esp if I only had a single system for testing and the same used as a DD machine.

Don't risk it, esp if what you have to test with IS your one and only.

BTW noted a bit of copper trace sticking out to the left, that alone would be a challenge depending on how it's damaged and how far into the PCB it goes with the damage done.
 

qubit

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The more posts I see about this damage, the more of a clusterfuck it looks. I just wouldn't risk nuking my stuff with a botched repair. :shadedshu:
 
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I'm here to inform you, on behalf of Starfleet Command, that you've just been demoted to assistant chief engineer.

The only thing that looks like it could be a serious problem to repair is this.

Whatever it is...it's gone for good. If you get lucky, and there's a 50% chance you will, it's ground. Then you can just run a wire from that side to ground. If not...you're pretty well screwed there.

The rest is cake. So long as you can get the right parts.

Okay.. So the parts, any ideas? I still need to find somebody that has this VGA, so I can find out where to get em.

You risk blowing up the entire system you'd want to try it with.
No telling what shape the card's PCB is in aside from what's pictured, even if you fix what's seen there could be some other unknown damage to it that a simple visual inspection may not catch.
it
Chunking it is probrably the safest thing to do here.

I have old machines lying around I can test with. Besides, I already (dumb or not) through the VGA into a working system and the 8pin power LED showed up. Just no POST.

Cleaning up corrosion (or whatever that crud is,) removing old solder, dropping new capacitors and resistors in with fresh solder, and maybe routing back/exposing a trace (which is all that I can see,) isn't such a big deal for someone with high skill or very expensive equipment. But you do need one or the other... ...though I don't know that too many people could do it with a hardware store heat-gun (or even the cheap ones made for soldering) and cheap iron/tips... ...let alone could microsolder decently without a microscope.... ...which realistically if you're gonna do it for less than the card costs new, is gonna be roughly your situation.

I mean, if you can find somebody who's familiar with these particular cards, has the skill, and the equipment (proper soldering setup, microscope, and hot air blower at a minimum,) who's willing to do it for say $100-$200 I'd say go for it. They'll probably charge at least that much for the time and just being among the few who even offer the service. The challenge is gonna be finding that person. I would not attempt to do it yourself. It's not a DIY job.

The real issue is, what you see isn't all there is. You can't just look at a surface-mount PCB and figure out what connects to what - circuits are spread all across the board through traces you can't see, meaning you also can't always test for things that may look good but actually aren't working together properly. No way to just know how it all goes together and makes a working system, even with schematics. Without that in hand, actual troubleshooting is nearly impossible. In order to really fix stuff like this, you need to understand how the circuits work, and what conditions to look for via testing. You need schematics, time, knowledge, and a brain. Your average person has at least two of these four things, but not often more. You may have more, you may not. I'm not judging! :p

I dunno, just my opinion. It could be simple if you're lucky, but a lot of times board repair is far more of an endeavor than it looks to be at first. There is a reason why people who are very intelligent and experienced in electronics repair have often said that surface-mount circuits are virtually non-repairable. They aren't, it's just really hard and often not even worth the time lol. I guess if all you can do is toss it, try to track down a schematic and a donor board and have at it. You do need the exact donor if you go this way - that way you know exactly what goes where and you have exactly the right components. Still, I'd be really leery about testing it in a system I cared about...

Thank you for this comprehensive and elaborate answer. To be short: I actually dable quite a lot in PCs and I have sorta dedicated my future to it, financially. So going out to buy fx a microscope, and good solder tips is absolutely no issue. I mean, honestly I see this as a challenge and a chance for me to learn something more than anything. I have dozens of systems lying around and this didn't hurt me much, I just took another board I had lying and plopped it in. So if you or anyone else can help me by pointing me in a direction, I will go :) Again, thank you.

Yeah I agree trying to get the correct smd components, have steady steady hands, correct sanitation practice and proper mounting is time consuming possibly wasteful of money your own money so I hope that the insurance company grants you the money to recover and get a new card.

Send a picture to buildzoid over at actually hardcore youtube page, see what he thinks

Strangely enough this was one of the first steps I took. I wrote to bull and and I am still crossing my fingers for him to answer :D
 
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You risk blowing up the entire system you'd want to try it with.
No telling what shape the card's PCB is in aside from what's pictured, even if you fix what's seen there could be some other unknown damage to it that a simple visual inspection may not catch.

Chunking it is probrably the safest thing to do here.

Before throwing it away, I would remove anything that maybe useful. Here I would remove fan & a number of surface components, ie capacitors MOSFETs ect, ect & use them on other devices for repairs.

But I would first repair the card, then test it not in my main computer, but on a spare motherboard which I don't care about. After repairs I would just power it up on a motherboard with nothing attached ie, no processor, ram ect, ect. If no smoke after repairs then add processor/ram. All test to be conducted with spares that I don't care about if it go's up in smoke, before putting it back in my main computer.
 
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dorsetknob

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If No insurance Pay out is in the offering :( Ebay as a dead/repair Sale ( no warranty/returns ).
You "might find a mug buyer willing to attempt a repair".
 
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Put it on eBay and say "For Parts or Repair Damaged Inoperable" in the title, do not mention it was run over, just say "physical damage". "As Is". Take a lot of high quality photos of it and put those in the listing so the buyers can see the damage. That way you are covered, they cannot say you misrepresented its condition.
 
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This is the best image I could get (so far) from my GPU. The on on the right is probably a 2N7002 SOT23. Cant seem to find anything for the 21J05 one.

 
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Thank you for this comprehensive and elaborate answer. To be short: I actually dable quite a lot in PCs and I have sorta dedicated my future to it, financially. So going out to buy fx a microscope, and good solder tips is absolutely no issue. I mean, honestly I see this as a challenge and a chance for me to learn something more than anything. I have dozens of systems lying around and this didn't hurt me much, I just took another board I had lying and plopped it in. So if you or anyone else can help me by pointing me in a direction, I will go :) Again, thank you.
Well, if it's like that, then sure. It's a waste of time/money to do it just to have a working card. But if you're really interested in learning, it's a good project.

Don't forget the hot air blower! So helpful for removing components and dropping in all sorts of things. Half of the time the soldering iron is secondary to actually making the joint. It's more used to apply or remove solder from/on the pads, and for cleaning up joints. For what you're going to do, you're going to be using the hot air blower a lot to actually get stuff onto the board. You can use just an iron or a pen in a pinch or when working near heat-sensitive components (such as the GPU, or a chip that you don't want to have slide off,) but generally it is not optional. You'll pull your hair out trying to go without one.

It's hit or miss, but the manufacturer may just have schematics for you. It'll be easier than hoping that 3rd party ones have been made. I couldn't begin to tell you where to look for those. Somebody here might know. But if not you may have to wait a little while and sometimes getting to the right people is a pain, but tracking down a manufacturer schematic a good starting point. 9 times out of 10 there's somebody over there who can get you one. Those schematics and part sheets save a lot of time. This might save you from sniffing out and buying a donor card, which is probably gonna be a waiting game. If you know what all the components are on the board, you can just buy them yourself from one of the many vendors out there and follow the schematic. It's just... man, having a donor makes life so, so much easier. That's the ideal.

I have no experience with GPU's, so I honestly can't tell you where to start. Of course you'll have to replace the obviously damaged stuff, but going forward from there I can't tell you what's likely to be bad if that doesn't fix it. A good starting point is to take your diagram and follow the power rails from point to point, checking for resistance/continuity. Since you have a PC to drop it in, you can also put power to it and check to make sure the voltages are right from point to point. A lot of times that's the only way to diagnose an issue. As you go along, that'll tell you what else needs replacing or if a trace is damaged somewhere. If they're not matching the voltage specified for that rail, something is wrong on that circuit. Look at the circuit on the diagram and try to narrow it down from there. When I was repairing iphones, that's how I learned how everything worked to a point where I could just kinda look and know it's gonna be one of a few things with minimal probing. It's not rocket science, it's just tedious to have to probe everything when it's most likely to be one or two specific things. If you can do 2+2 you can do it - that's the level of logic to it, it's just... ...how many times do you wanna solve that same equation before you give up, you know?

I mean, it gets more complicated than that sometimes... ...components along the way are going to change the power moving down the line, and sometimes you're going to need to know how it should be behaving. THAT stuff is going to take research - you will likely have to ask people as it's not stuff you can sum up and take in over the course of one repair. It's helpful to know how all of the common components work. I would start with the main circuits and make sure everything is getting power before going down to that level. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. That will be very hard to just jump into doing.

I could give you a lot of tips on technique and things like that, but there's a guy on youtube who does it better than I could in one post... ...I don't know if you've heard of him but there's a guy called Louis Rossmann who does a ton of board repair videos. He does apple laptops but a lot of the techniques are the same. The general process/approach is the same. He's very good at what he does, and has over 1000 unedited videos of him working on this stuff where he breaks down everything he's doing and why. You'll learn a lot about how to troubleshoot circuits and trace the logic back. And along the way, you'll get to see all of the techniques you'll need to learn to fix what you need to fix. He even breaks down equipment that's in reach and sort of just what to look for in a few videos. Good stuff. He's one of the few people out there teaching real, like serious nitty gritty board repair. I think you'll find it interesting if you have a mind for this stuff.

All I can really say is good luck man, hope you find what you're looking for. Ime repairing stuff like this can be fun, but it can also be plain torture. Be patient, take your time. If you're stuck, stop and research more. The answer is always there somewhere. But sometimes the answer is "This circuit will never work." There are some things you can't just "figure out" even knowing what the components are doing. Also, don't ever do this kind of work to make money. Even if you like doing it. Trust me :p
 
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Thank you for this comprehensive and elaborate answer. To be short: I actually dable quite a lot in PCs and I have sorta dedicated my future to it, financially. So going out to buy fx a microscope, and good solder tips is absolutely no issue. I mean, honestly I see this as a challenge and a chance for me to learn something more than anything. I have dozens of systems lying around and this didn't hurt me much, I just took another board I had lying and plopped it in. So if you or anyone else can help me by pointing me in a direction, I will go :) Again, thank you.

Great way to view it.
Instead of chunking it you have a zombie to work with and the good part is you might actually fix it.

Good to hear you have several systems to use for testing, I didn't know what you have or how much so assumed you only had the one.

Again, with the following I don't assume anything about what you may or may not know but getting a soldering station with the airwand is the thing to go for.
I've bought soldering irons that took forever to heatup or recover heat after a few seconds of use, you need an iron with enough wattage to back up the work you're doing. The really low wattage ones have their place too but for most work the pen with the station is ideal. Grab a magnifying visor, some flux (You'll always need some of that) and you'll be ready. The one I have has paid for itself several times over and glad I got it.
 
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Well, if it's like that, then sure. It's a waste of time/money to do it just to have a working card. But if you're really interested in learning, it's a good project.

Don't forget the hot air blower! So helpful for removing components and dropping in all sorts of things. Half of the time the soldering iron is secondary to actually making the joint. It's more used to apply or remove solder from/on the pads, and for cleaning up joints. For what you're going to do, you're going to be using the hot air blower a lot to actually get stuff onto the board. You can use just an iron or a pen in a pinch or when working near heat-sensitive components (such as the GPU, or a chip that you don't want to have slide off,) but generally it is not optional. You'll pull your hair out trying to go without one.

It's hit or miss, but the manufacturer may just have schematics for you. It'll be easier than hoping that 3rd party ones have been made. I couldn't begin to tell you where to look for those. Somebody here might know. But if not you may have to wait a little while and sometimes getting to the right people is a pain, but tracking down a manufacturer schematic a good starting point. 9 times out of 10 there's somebody over there who can get you one. Those schematics and part sheets save a lot of time. This might save you from sniffing out and buying a donor card, which is probably gonna be a waiting game. If you know what all the components are on the board, you can just buy them yourself from one of the many vendors out there and follow the schematic. It's just... man, having a donor makes life so, so much easier. That's the ideal.

I have no experience with GPU's, so I honestly can't tell you where to start. Of course you'll have to replace the obviously damaged stuff, but going forward from there I can't tell you what's likely to be bad if that doesn't fix it. A good starting point is to take your diagram and follow the power rails from point to point, checking for resistance/continuity. Since you have a PC to drop it in, you can also put power to it and check to make sure the voltages are right from point to point. A lot of times that's the only way to diagnose an issue. As you go along, that'll tell you what else needs replacing or if a trace is damaged somewhere. If they're not matching the voltage specified for that rail, something is wrong on that circuit. Look at the circuit on the diagram and try to narrow it down from there. When I was repairing iphones, that's how I learned how everything worked to a point where I could just kinda look and know it's gonna be one of a few things with minimal probing. It's not rocket science, it's just tedious to have to probe everything when it's most likely to be one or two specific things. If you can do 2+2 you can do it - that's the level of logic to it, it's just... ...how many times do you wanna solve that same equation before you give up, you know?

I mean, it gets more complicated than that sometimes... ...components along the way are going to change the power moving down the line, and sometimes you're going to need to know how it should be behaving. THAT stuff is going to take research - you will likely have to ask people as it's not stuff you can sum up and take in over the course of one repair. It's helpful to know how all of the common components work. I would start with the main circuits and make sure everything is getting power before going down to that level. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. That will be very hard to just jump into doing.

I could give you a lot of tips on technique and things like that, but there's a guy on youtube who does it better than I could in one post... ...I don't know if you've heard of him but there's a guy called Louis Rossmann who does a ton of board repair videos. He does apple laptops but a lot of the techniques are the same. The general process/approach is the same. He's very good at what he does, and has over 1000 unedited videos of him working on this stuff where he breaks down everything he's doing and why. You'll learn a lot about how to troubleshoot circuits and trace the logic back. And along the way, you'll get to see all of the techniques you'll need to learn to fix what you need to fix. He even breaks down equipment that's in reach and sort of just what to look for in a few videos. Good stuff. He's one of the few people out there teaching real, like serious nitty gritty board repair. I think you'll find it interesting if you have a mind for this stuff.

All I can really say is good luck man, hope you find what you're looking for. Ime repairing stuff like this can be fun, but it can also be plain torture. Be patient, take your time. If you're stuck, stop and research more. The answer is always there somewhere. But sometimes the answer is "This circuit will never work." There are some things you can't just "figure out" even knowing what the components are doing. Also, don't ever do this kind of work to make money. Even if you like doing it. Trust me :p

Great way to view it.
Instead of chunking it you have a zombie to work with and the good part is you might actually fix it.

Good to hear you have several systems to use for testing, I didn't know what you have or how much so assumed you only had the one.

Again, with the following I don't assume anything about what you may or may not know but getting a soldering station with the airwand is the thing to go for.
I've bought soldering irons that took forever to heatup or recover heat after a few seconds of use, you need an iron with enough wattage to back up the work you're doing. The really low wattage ones have their place too but for most work the pen with the station is ideal. Grab a magnifying visor, some flux (You'll always need some of that) and you'll be ready. The one I have has paid for itself several times over and glad I got it.


Okay. Well to start off, I contacted ASUS and I also have a contact within ASUS who says they cannot get me the schematics. So sadly, the only real option is to get some good images of the board, and try to figure out which of the SMDs I can get replacements for. When that is done, I have a simple solder station but atm no heads and no tin. I have a magnifying glass but nothing too fancy. So I considered buying an eletronic magnifiying system cheap on ebay or something, so I can get close to what I am doing. How does that sound?
 
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So yeah I was kinda unlucky yesterday.. But I think my new GTX 1070 Dual (ASUS) is savable.. But I don't know what those 101 chips/regulators are. I imagine the rest of the little scratches can be soldered back together. Anyone able to help? Possibly with some pictures of a working card and the same area? So I can see what needs to be soldered and what not.

you can try ekwb's cooling configurator if your card can be foud on there, there will be hi-res images of both sides of the pcb. That said, that card doesn't look like a lost cause but it looks like it's beyond saving, I can see at least 3 pads that have been completely ripped out one of which(the one to the left of the pad that mr.genius highlighted that is ripped out) has ripped out some of the pcb and most of the trace with it.
 
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you can try ekwb's cooling configurator if your card can be foud on there, there will be hi-res images of both sides of the pcb. That said, that card doesn't look like a lost cause but it looks like it's beyond saving, I can see at least 3 pads that have been completely ripped out one of which(the one to the left of the pad that mr.genius highlighted that is ripped out) has ripped out some of the pcb and most of the trace with it.
See to me that looks nasty too, but I don't think it's unfixable. It's a huge gamble to try to fix something like that... a professional would look at that and say it's unfixable because they have to have standards and it has to work for a span of time that they can actually warranty with confidence.

But that doesn't mean you can't possibly very, VERY carefully scrape back the damaged stuff to expose more trace underneath and solder to that. Or expose some trace nearby and run a short wire. It may take some creativity to get a solid connection but it is doable. Just not necessarily the most viable solution. Also a very delicate and time-consuming solution.

I dunno, if I were gonna fix it for the sake of trying to, I'd still give it a shot. Maybe it'll just short and burn up the traces there, or maybe it won't make a good connection, but what if it worked?

@MadsMagnus Not having any schematic to go by limits you mostly to fixing what you can see. Hopefully that will be enough. It might be. For tips, get a chisel tip and maybe a bevel tip. Conical tips only make life harder, unless you're already good at this. Feel free to get one, but you may not even use it.

You'll really want some kind of hot air station... ...even a cheap one is better than nothing, though it'll take longer to heat up. You don't have to spend even $100. It's just a lot easier to put solder onto pads, position the component on the pads, hit it with flux, and gently press it in place with tweezers while you hit the area with hot air. As soon as the solder melts, you can just tweak the position and let off. Trying to spread solder with an iron and keep tiny parts in place while you try to melt solder around and underneath them is pretty delicate work. Can be done with practice, but hot air is just easier, especially with the condition some of those pads are in. Don't wanna be scraping and dragging when you can help it.
 
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you can try ekwb's cooling configurator if your card can be foud on there, there will be hi-res images of both sides of the pcb. That said, that card doesn't look like a lost cause but it looks like it's beyond saving, I can see at least 3 pads that have been completely ripped out one of which(the one to the left of the pad that mr.genius highlighted that is ripped out) has ripped out some of the pcb and most of the trace with it.

It only had front side pictures :( But I got Dennis from ASUS Nordic to give me a hand.

This is what I got myself:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnifying...965559&hash=item4d6dd55af9:g:ZGcAAOSwWktahNVA
Has the lenses with a LED light that's adjustable.

Good stuff? How does it compare to this (
) how close do you get?
 
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It only had front side pictures :( But I got Dennis from ASUS Nordic to give me a hand.



Good stuff? How does it compare to this (
) how close do you get?
That's neat, but I wonder what the latency is like. You can rig a high-end scope up to a capture system and watch it on screen rather than hunching over, but the latency makes it hard to really do anything.
 

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That's neat, but I wonder what the latency is like. You can rig a high-end scope up to a capture system and watch it on screen rather than hunching over, but the latency makes it hard to really do anything.
Latency is fine. I have the cheapest 1.2MP scope w/ plastic lens, and it gets the job done. I usually solder parts like that without microscope. I'm only checking the result afterwards w/ magnifying glass, but I have a good vision and lots of lots of lots of practice. The only reason I bought it, is to check smaller sections with lots of 0402 or smaller parts, inspect solder pads on BGA components, and because it was <$5 used :fear:

To OP: if you are attempting a repair, just think about the investment you need to make just in tools:
1) Cheap hot air rework station is around $40 (the ones that at least work and won't burn down your house) , more if it includes an iron (you'll need it to restore those 2 ripped pads and clean the other ones w/ leaded solder for easier melting)
2) Set of tweezers $4-5
3) Good residue-free flux ~$8-10
4) a small roll of solder ($1-2?)
5) a decent multimeter w/ needle-point probes $25+, or you can spend $20 on a tweezer-multimeter for SMD components and spend the whole day in frustration trying to keep those probes where they suppose to be
6) actual parts. You can't buy just one or two, and you are lucky if you find 10ct strips in retail. It's still cheap, but every penny adds up at the end.

If you go all-in, then you can also include a bottom pre-heater (another $60-$100), cause the PCB textolite on GPUs is thick nowadays and it's easier to work with it on a preheater, rather than heat it up with hot air wand for 10-15 minutes just to get the solder melting on the surface(possibly damaging the surrounding components).
Then, add a microscope and you are already in for the price of a used GTX1070.

It's cheaper to pay someone to repair it for you. I'm sure that an honest electronics repair shop won't take more than $40 for a couple of transistors, a pair of caps and some testing.
If you don't have any adequate repair shops in Denmark (which I doubt), you can mail it to me and I'll fix it in no time :D:D:D
 
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Latency is fine. I have the cheapest 1.2MP scope w/ plastic lens, and it gets the job done. I usually solder parts like that without microscope. I'm only checking the result afterwards w/ magnifying glass, but I have a good vision and lots of lots of lots of practice. The only reason I bought it, is to check smaller sections with lots of 0402 or smaller parts, inspect solder pads on BGA components, and because it was <$5 used :fear:

To OP: if you are attempting a repair, just think about the investment you need to make just in tools:
1) Cheap hot air rework station is around $40 (the ones that at least work and won't burn down your house) , more if it includes an iron (you'll need it to restore those 2 ripped pads and clean the other ones w/ leaded solder for easier melting)
2) Set of tweezers $4-5
3) Good residue-free flux ~$8-10
4) a small roll of solder ($1-2?)
5) a decent multimeter w/ needle-point probes $25+, or you can spend $20 on a tweezer-multimeter for SMD components and spend the whole day in frustration trying to keep those probes where they suppose to be
6) actual parts. You can't buy just one or two, and you are lucky if you find 10ct strips in retail. It's still cheap, but every penny adds up at the end.

If you go all-in, then you can also include a bottom pre-heater (another $60-$100), cause the PCB textolite on GPUs is thick nowadays and it's easier to work with it on a preheater, rather than heat it up with hot air wand for 10-15 minutes just to get the solder melting on the surface(possibly damaging the surrounding components).
Then, add a microscope and you are already in for the price of a used GTX1070.

It's cheaper to pay someone to repair it for you. I'm sure that an honest electronics repair shop won't take more than $40 for a couple of transistors, a pair of caps and some testing.
If you don't have any adequate repair shops in Denmark (which I doubt), you can mail it to me and I'll fix it in no time :D:D:D
Haha, I mean it's spot on advice as to what is needed and cost. I said the same thing initially. It's just not worth it to try and very possibly fail to fix it for a ton of cash when you can find somebody to actually fix it for less than the cost of equipment.

But I gather he's trying to do this to actually learn to do it and this is just the de-facto project #1. Seems like he cares more about that than saving the card hehe. We all have to start somewhere.

As far as that goes, I really cannot second this advice harder. You did pretty much cover it all. But your forgot the solder wick!
 
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Good stuff? How does it compare to this (
) how close do you get?

If I stack the lenses I can get close to that but obviously not that close.
This is a cheap way of magnifying things so you can do some of the more delicate work and leave both hands free to do the work with. The built-in light does make things easier too, I'll say for just about anything you'll probrably be doing aside from what a pro can do as shown in the vid it's more than adequate.

As said above you'd also need the right soldering equip and tips for the soldering pens for this kind of work, if you don't have it, the best magnification won't make any difference.
This is the exact station I have: https://www.ebay.com/itm/862D-2in1-...659782&hash=item1eaab89ed5:g:PvgAAOSw64ha87EG
However you'd really want a 3 in 1 station if you can get it like this one: 853D 3in1 DC Power Supply SMD Rework Station Soldering Hot Air Gun Welder 110V | eBay
There are a few variances but all do the same basic thing.

If you get one I'll also advise you to grab a spare soldering pen or two, the issue is the body of it is all plastic and over time the heat will cause it to weaken, then it will start coming apart. Took about a 2 years for it to happen but it did - Grabbed myself another and a spare for future use once this one goes bad that way. You can see in how it's made that where the pieces of it screws together is where the weakness is - Should have been made of metal but haven't seen any like that to buy.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Iron-Welding...panese-Heater-60w/1739372054?iid=331590533095
 
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