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My pc is electrocuting me/giving asus anti-surge alert randomly

OneMoar

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what I'm actually gonna do and I believe it's the best thing to do is to plant a 8ft ground rod in my backyard and send this thing 10 meters to my new without anything blocking btw them
Great! And note you don't normally have to dig a hole. In fact, that would be bad because it would loosen the dirt and make for a poor ground. You pound the rod into the ground (that's why there's a pointed end) with a big hammer and hope you don't hit a rock or buried cable.
 

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(that's why there's a pointed end) with a big hammer and hope you don't hit a rock or buried cable.

I can state quite definitively that you should dig a hole, earthing rods are mainly copper, which bends.

Bashing it straight through your domestic gas/electricity/water or comms could be embarrassing/expensive/lethal.........dig a hole.!!!

I speak from experience of installing many earthing rods and all services associated with domestic and commercial buildings.

The backfill should be well compacted and ideally (you guessed it) be earth or soil, in high silica areas backfill should be "bought in".
 

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Okay guys I'll manage to survive.XD
 
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Guys im putting this d#$k in a soil/high humidity dirt.as for the way of putting it in I'm guessing I'll use the water hose one which dig the hole using water pression.seems the easiest.
 

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quoting myself again

The backfill should be well compacted and ideally (you guessed it) be earth or soil, in high silica areas backfill should be "bought in".
 
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Basically shows howto do it. You can mount a shielded wire to it and guide it to your pc, or mount the copper wire to a box and from there to your pc etc etc.
On a side note, where I live everything is upto specs, but farmers usually live away from cities and are used to grounding rods.

ps. the mention of grounding to the main water pipe (where it enters your house and before the main valve) was just a quick and cheap way of solving your issue. In effect it acts as a grounding rod also and you're only gonna ground your pc to it. The physics are the same anyways, as long as it's a private house and goes directly in the ground.

After all, we were just talking about the +50v on the pc housing, weren't we? It's not like you're gonna ground it to your entire house.
 

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After all, we were just talking about the +50v on the pc housing, weren't we? It's not like you're gonna ground it to your entire house.

That's the main problem. If the pipes are not bonded in between valves and water usage counters the resistance will be quite high... if he doesn't live in a private house this option leaves too many variables and I do not suggest it... as there are other neighbors, it may be even disconnected somewhere because of plastic filter or a pipe. There is no knowledge about that. If you have built the house by yourself then there are no questions even. For for el cheapo projects, a rental flat or old houses... it is a lottery.

@CAPSLOCKSTUCK could you please leave your personal guessing to yourself?

That drawing - how far from the house are you pulling the rod? See the video provided by Flow.
 
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I can state quite definitively that you should dig a hole, earthing rods are mainly copper, which bends.
This time, I have to agree with Ferrum Master. If you are digging a hole to set a ground rod, you are doing it wrong. That will loosen the soil and ruin the "ground". And if it rains, it becomes even worse.

The rods, BTW, are not solid copper. That would be silly because copper is too soft and would bend (and costs too much). Ever heard of "skin effect"? The rods are typically hardened steel cladded with copper.

Back in my radio maintenance days for the USAF when we were deployed to "the field", we always had to set our own ground plane. And we (well, the lowest ranking troop! ;)) always pounded in the rods. Then we had to use a "megger" meter to measure resistance to Earth ground before we fired up our generators and transmitters. If we could not get a good reading, we had to pound in more rods and bond them together until we did. No fun in desert locations where the ground was sandy, or forested locations where always very wet.
 
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No fun in desert locations where the ground was sandy, or forested locations where always very wet.

The worst case is to poke upon a big stone underneath... Luck wasn't my companion often.
 

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20 years in construction....10 as a foreman.
 
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In doing some research, I see now there are grounding "systems" you can set using a post hole digger. But to do it correctly, you cannot just dump back in the dirt and tamp it down - for the reasons I noted above. Instead, you need to backfill the hole with a special chemical filler "enhancement" material. There are several types - depending on soil and environmental conditions for the area. That said, having fenced in my backyard, IMO, a big hammer is easier than a post hole digger.

At any rate, apologies to CAPSLOCKSTUCK for saying you were doing it wrong. If you backfilled with proper materials, your way is just fine.

(Edit comment: Fixed typos)
 
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The chap lives in Lebanon, it could be an issue to find a proper one.

I understand.

However, if the OP can afford a high-end rig
Well I'm feeling lost btw all those debates.as someone stated above electricians here are corrupted.that usually means harm more than good. I asked one here what's a ground plug he said that It can't be made in lebanon because it's built in the electric central lmao.he suggested then buying my 5k pc for 400$!!!!!it makes me angry really...by the way I came here to ask you if this http://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B0059D...etailBullets_secondary_view_div_1459692277686 would do the job as my new ups.my water pipes as I checked aren't conductive. Some type of old metals used I guess.so my viable option is to make a diy 3 prong outlet.if possible give me some technical details about grounding rod placement.how far from the build/will a 2 meters 3/4 inch copper rod be effective for 1 single outlet.anything else to know?probably gonna protect it using fuses ect... as my uncle who lives here too have some electrical knowledge.also it's frequent here that the power goes out for hours each day.so we have 2 backup generators.is there's anything in that case to be added cz I've heard of engine grounding ect but didn't understand a sh*&.thanks

Honestly, if it we me, and I could afford $5,000 for a PC, I believe I would spend at least that much to ensure I have a safe and properly installed wiring system.

But, do as you will. Hopefully, you do not end up killing yourself or burning your house down.
 
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ps. the mention of grounding to the main water pipe (where it enters your house and before the main valve) was just a quick and cheap way of solving your issue.
Unless those pipes are made of plastic at one point.
 
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my water pipes as I checked aren't conductive. Some type of old metals used I guess.
Everyone else has thrown their 2 cents worth in, so I thought I would add mine for what it is worth!
Those pipes sound like galvanised steel pipes, they will work perfectly for grounding once the earth wire is grounded properly to it, usually by grinding or filing the surface layer off to expose bare steel.
Earth rods can also be placed directly against the house and do not have to be meters away as mentioned by others..
I would suggest the water pipe method first as the easiest.
 
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Unless those pipes are made of plastic at one point.
Which is why folks have repeatedly said to bond BEFORE the main valve or any junctions. If you see copper coming it to the home, that copper is sunk into the Earth. Even if there is PVC somewhere going back to the treatment plant (or well), it will still provide an Earth ground. If you have modern PVC supplying clean, cold water to the house, then surely, even in less developed regions, the electrical service has a solid Earth ground somewhere near where the electrical service enters the home.

Obviously, anything is possible and there are always exceptions to the norm. So again, the best advice is to have a certified electrician check it out.

Earth rods can also be placed directly against the house and do not have to be meters away as mentioned by others..
Actually, you want the shortest run possible, so as close to the service panel or circuit you are grounding as possible is actually desired.
 
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Ill be using another grounding method that would work best in my environment according to 2 electricians here and instead of putting a ground rod that will likely not be able to reach 1.5m due to geological issues.I'll use a long 15m 16mm copper cable underground as a ground with on top of it some charcoal to keep the ground humid and mineralised. Share your opinion.I'll get the cable delivered today.though I have a problem.my ups is actually grounded with European standard type e-f(the one with a male contact in the outlet for the ground and side contacts) but my pc have an American type b outlet.will using a grounded adapter be dangerous? Heres my plan: pc/monitor type b->adapter type f->ups type f output-> type e input-> type e outlet. Though I have some polarity issues with the system and need further testing to be sure. My speaker aren't grounded so I don't think they need it if the manufacturer have put a type a cable.will this system causes any resistance problem? Thanks for the help.
 
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Ill be using another grounding method that would work best in my environment according to 2 electricians here and instead of putting a ground rod that will likely not be able to reach 1.5m due to geological issues.I'll use a long 15m 16mm copper cable underground as a ground with on top of it some charcoal to keep the ground humid and mineralised. Share your opinion.I'll get the cable delivered today.though I have a problem.my ups is actually grounded with European standard type e-f(the one with a male contact in the outlet for the ground and side contacts) but my pc have an American type b outlet.will using a grounded adapter be dangerous? Heres my plan: pc/monitor type b->adapter type f->ups type f output-> type e input-> type e outlet. Though I have some polarity issues with the system and need further testing to be sure. My speaker aren't grounded so I don't think they need it if the manufacturer have put a type a cable.will this system causes any resistance problem? Thanks for the help.

Thats good, the grounding is for your protection, if the shock was really hard, you need to find the fault, it means you have a leakage, could be a motor, faulty switch, etc. We have an electrical code, we have grounding rods, an we have crack heads who steal just a little piece of that ground cable that connect to the rod to buy meth, so sometimes my electrical system is floating, but no shocks. Anyway, whats is the voltage of your mains?
 
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Actually I repaired my ground and properly grounded my pc.but each time I touch my subwoofer or mouse or keyboard I feel an electrical shock.but when I test with a multimeter/test screwdriver it always shows that there's no electricity.I don't know whats happening with me.but even when I'm using my phone I'm getting a shock...smaller than on my subwoofer though.and yesterday I was playing the old school battlefield 4 at medium settings and my ups started beeping very quickly...showing an overload.it's a 600w one but I only use my pc/monitor on it.even when I shut down the pc it kept beeping quickly...it happened before but I don't know. I did a memtest for my pc and it passed 2 passes with no error. Didn't continue though I suppose if there's anything obvious it would show up at 90% of the time in the first pass...thanks for your help
Edit: I got a new ups and from then the pc didn't shutdown.
 
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At any rate, apologies to CAPSLOCKSTUCK for saying you were doing it wrong. If you backfilled with proper materials, your way is just fine.

Wait, Bill admitted he was wrong on something?

*Looks outside for flying pigs*

PS: This is just me yanking your chain again, Bill. Congrats for being a sport, seriously.
 
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