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Need help identifying joystick replacement

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Hi there I am trying to replace a "drifting" joystick on a PowerA wired enhanced spectra Xbox One controller. Here is a link to it

From everything I read and watched I really thought I was buying the right part. But not until I tore apart the controller and de-soldered the joystick, did I realize the replacements I bought have the "click" (the downward push function of most modern joysticks) in a different position. So what I mean is the pins will not all line up to the PCB. They are all spaced the same, but positioned different. This means I can position it to line up a particular set of pins, but the others wont line up, or vise versa. I also stupidly didn't realize I got the ones with a thicker plastic post instead of the thin metal post, but that seems like something I can work around if need be.

So I have now done a lot more research but have not found the exact same looking joystick yet. Summarizing what I have found.

At least one or some Xbox 360 joysticks have the exact same potentiometers evident of the "6 0 B 103" in the corners of them. However, the stick is plastic and larger. I also tore apart an old Microsoft OEM Xbox 360 wireless controller for comparison and the one I have is clearly larger than both the PowerA unit, and the Xbox One replacement unit I bought (which is an ALPS branded unit) Link below showing the Xbox 360 one that seems close

Below are two pics of the one I am trying to replace
I believe it is a Polyshine Favor Union branded unit. And it is likely their model called "FJM10K-S1B10K01N".
Here is link to that, and below that are photos of what I am trying to replace. (I must have gotten a little careless with my heat gun lol the plastic melted a bit on one of the potentiometers as you can see in the 2nd pic)
IMG_2110.JPG
IMG_2111.JPG




Here is a pic of what I am trying to replace, next to a pic of what I bought, as well as a link to what I bought. I circled the posts that do not match up because they are closer to the main body of the unit on the ones I bought (the green ones)
IMG_2112.JPG




So my problem is it seems I cannot find anyone selling what resembles an exact copy of the unit in the PowerA wired controller.

Please, if you have any advice I'd love to hear from you!
 
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So I think I found the parts I need. My main issue was not finding anything for sale in the good ol' USA! I really did NOT want to buy parts from China, but I came to the conclusion this is the only way to finish this project I started. I actually had a hard time finding them on Aliexpress even. For ex, I found the proper analog stick module, but the potentiometers on it have different numbers on them suggesting they operate different. I have read some numbers refer to sensitivity, their "curve" type such as linear or logarithmic etc, dead zone space if one exists, etc. So I had to buy the potentiometers, which surely are not OEM I imagine, but do look the same and would expect to operate the same. I can change the potentiometers out on the joystick modules to have the exact same finished joystick in the long run.

Here are links to what I bought below. I won't be recieving them for over a month likely, so it will be quite sometime before I get to actually install and test them. Let's hope I didn't damage any through-holes on my PCB removing the old one. I'm not concerned about soldering them on, that will be easy. I had a hard time getting them off though as it was my first time DESOLDERING components like that from a PCB. I made mistakes but learned so much from this project already. I would be confident I can remove components from a PCB much quicker and cleaner now as a result.

The joystick modules (note they show "45 6 B103" when my original ones show "6 0 B103" which is why I am changing them out)

The potentiometers (note they show the correct "6 0 B103" markings on them)
 

DanielS236

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Hi brother, I wanted to know if the replacement you found on aliexpress worked for you in the end, thank you.
 
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Hi brother, I wanted to know if the replacement you found on aliexpress worked for you in the end, thank you.


what I detailed in my 2nd post were in fact the proper size joystick module. they fit my controller fine and the replacement potentiometers fit too. however, disappointed that the first one I installed seemed "sticky". to be clear it was not not drifting, it was sticky. as in when I push the joystick in a direction and then let go it does not quite return to center. it needed just a feather light touch to return to center. its like the dead zone area is sticky. I suspect it is due to using the replacement potentiometers. like they are a tight fit and therefore make more resistance and the joystick doesn't have enough spring to return to dead center, it stops a little short of dead center. this is only noticeable when using figures from gamepadtester.com. I don't notice it on the modules with the potentiometers that came installed though. I'll need more time playing around with them to really determine what is working well and what isn't.
 

Snlehton

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I have a similar problem. Left stick in my Powera Switch Pro controller started acting up, and while trying to "fix" it with canned air, isopropyl alcohol and tinkering, I managed to break the stick. I need to get a replacement, and the model seems to be the same as OP.
PSX_20211116_230841.jpg
Found identical stick from this Aliexpress vendor. Let's see if that works :)

I tried reading the specs for the joystick found at http://www.polyshine.cn/ProductDetail-216.html but the codes in the spec did not actually make any sense. Maybe the code for the joystick is different than what is one the potentiometer...

Anyway, thanks for the info. It was helpful for getting in right tracks. Now I need to wait month or so to get the parts...
 
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that FJM10K part is actually all I really needed. or at least I cannot tell the difference between the potentiometers that come installed on the analog stick module, compared to the separate potentiometers I bought separately. The two different potentiometers have different numbers printed at their corners which suggest they operate a little different, but, apparently not enough for me to tell one way or the other.

also I have noted I bought two of the PowerA wired enhanced spectra Xbox One controllers. And BOTH had the left analog stick fail like this on me in about the same time frame. About 6 months of use. However, after I have changed out to the replacement joystick modules, they literally haven't even STARTED to drift or get loose. The original ones got sooooo fucking loose I could just tilt the controller around and watch the analog stick flop around....yes, it was that bad. So the replacements seem like a superior product in my use case. They have lasted longer already and still feel as good as day 1 they were installed.

another thing I've seen people do it say they need to "calibrate" the potentiometers by literally physically shifting it left/right so when the analog stick isn't being used it is detected properly as center. they would actually clip off the little bumps on the potentiometers so they can swing one way or the other. this seems like total BS to me. I've replaced almost a dozen of these now on Xbox 360 and Xbox One controllers and I never had to do that. I think some people are just overthinking shit beyond belief. This is a video for example (link below). GREAT info on everything else, however, this "calibration" technique he speaks of is like I said, total BS in my experience.

Seeing yours is also from PowerA, chances are if it looked the same as mine then the same replacements would work. Glad this helped you out! When I have to do this again I am planning to make a formal write up on it with appropriate pictures to accompany it. I don't think I have it in me to make a video but I can certainly do a good job putting up step by step instructions with links to the parts needed on something like ifix.com and/or make a cleaner post here
 

Snlehton

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Thanks for your reply.
From the spec you can see that different tapers have materials in them, and probably determine the friction, physical dead zone and effective angle for the joystick. The physical angle is probably created by resticting the joystick hat/stick against the shell of the joystick.

From the "6 0 B 103" codes I think B means the linear taper, 103 means 10^3 = 10k resistance, but 6 and 0 don't make much sense. Maybe it's the same as 06 = 38 degree movement with 6 degree dead zone...

I hope as long as the code matches the original, it will feel the same.

1637220027921.png


I'm wondering if there's a software calibration feature with the controller. Some Powera controllers seem to have it, but I have not found mention of it with the Switch version. The Switch OS calibration does not (obviously?) work with the Powera controller as it's actually a device feature and not OS one.
 

klawson1

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Hey guys, I need some help! I was reading this post because I too ordered a joystick replacement that was too small. I saw that you guys were saying the Power A controllers had slightly large joystick components, so I popped one open that I had laying around and de-soldered it. However, to my surprise that one was too small as well! I have a specialty controller that’s a half keyboard with a joystick that I’ve come to love. It’s called the Hori Tac Commander Pro. Unfortunately they don’t make these for the Xbox anymore, so my only option is to replace the joystick. I just can’t find one big enough!

Here are some photos of them lined up next to each other. The first one is the replacement I bought on Amazon, the second one is what I pulled out of my Power A controller, and the third one is from my Hori Tac Commander Pro that I’m trying to replace. I have also taken a few pictures of them on a ruler for reference.

Please help!

7B21DB3E-5D19-4456-9F7E-C55BECE9691F.jpeg
 

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Hey guys, I need some help! I was reading this post because I too ordered a joystick replacement that was too small. I saw that you guys were saying the Power A controllers had slightly large joystick components, so I popped one open that I had laying around and de-soldered it. However, to my surprise that one was too small as well! I have a specialty controller that’s a half keyboard with a joystick that I’ve come to love. It’s called the Hori Tac Commander Pro. Unfortunately they don’t make these for the Xbox anymore, so my only option is to replace the joystick. I just can’t find one big enough!

Here are some photos of them lined up next to each other. The first one is the replacement I bought on Amazon, the second one is what I pulled out of my Power A controller, and the third one is from my Hori Tac Commander Pro that I’m trying to replace. I have also taken a few pictures of them on a ruler for reference.

Please help!

View attachment 231507

friendly ribbing alert......so despite this trove of info you made every mistake I did? lol you don't wanna learn the hard way! you're supposed to avoid the same mistakes! :p
yea I can tell the green potentiometers one is def for an XBOX ONE controller, OEM controllers that is. The middle one is from your PowerA as I recognize the markings on the plastic underside and the size matches up. So the Hori controller one is the biggest controller module I've ever seen. and based on the orange color it could also be made by Polyshine/Favor Union but that is also a total guess. Did you look at the link I had in the first post for their website? Here it is again specifically going to their joystick page. They seem to list a module that could be the size you need based on comparisons....look at model # FJN10K.......take note that the module you tore out of the PowerA controller is surely model # FJM10K (which is what me and the other poster Snlehton bought). Since they list FMJ10K at 16.7mm and you need something bigger, FJN10K being listed at 20.3mm it might be what you are looking for (keyword....might).



I doubt I'm of anymore help seeing how this post was on the subject of PowerA controllers and I made it because no one has ever made any youtube or ifixit type tutorials on this specific controller manufacturer. so you're in the same boat as I was if there is no existing user documentation on what part(s) you need. meaning it is up to you to be the first to figure it out. that comes off as a very niche case controller you have so this isn't a surprise it would be using a different module and that there isn't any online documentation on it.

you're gonna want to search around on some Chinese websites, Aliexpress is a good start. it's like China's ebay from what I know of it. get as tight/accurate of measurements you can on the module you are trying to replace and find one that matches. you're on the right path, you need to just find the right part. Frankly the knockoffs I bought are lasting longer than the ones that came installed on the controllers lol so don't be scared of buying something that could be perceived as "cheap"

If you do purchase something, please do come back to let us know how you made out with it! Good luck with the search!





I'm wondering if there's a software calibration feature with the controller. Some Powera controllers seem to have it, but I have not found mention of it with the Switch version. The Switch OS calibration does not (obviously?) work with the Powera controller as it's actually a device feature and not OS one.

Hey I missed this bit first time around. Sorry but no there isn't any software calibration programs available commercially or as freeware, etc that I know of. There is Windows built in controller "calibration" but I don't think that is the same thing you are after. It's more of a button tester rather than "hey if my left analog stick always thinks "center" is 15* to the right despite it physically being centered, so I need to calibrate it to make center actually center, aka, 0*" so if that is the type of calibration you need, no, nothing is available. that is what that guy in that youtube video talks about I posted but frankly in my experience I have never had such an issue with the new potentiometers being off when they are installed.
 

klawson1

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Well I didn’t come across this forum thread until after I ordered the wrong one lol. Once I realized the one I ordered was too small I started doing more research and found this treasure trove of info.

Thank you so much for the link to Favor Electronics. You’re a legend! I searched for hours and found nothing. So I looked at those schematics and measured mine and everything seems to be the same. I had to spend a while on Alibaba but finally found one with the same schematics. I ordered it, and will let you guys know when it arrives how it matches up.

Here’s the link to where I found it at.

3D Model aircraft rocker Potentiometer 10k Joystick Potentiometer Game machine potentiometer with switch and cap
https://m.alibaba.com/product/62017...terKey":"7.8.2_share","cacheTime":"1800000"}}
1641792120449.png


Thanks again Skizzo!
 
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@klawson1 Great! I hope it works out well for you. Let us know how it works once you get it installed!
 

Snlehton

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Ok, so the parts finally arrived after being stuck in limbo in transit country for a good month.

The markings were identical and the component seemed to be the same. So today I desoldered the broken joystick (some 1+ hours) and replaced it with the new one (5 min) and I'm happy to report it's like new! I'm so happy! It's a 50€ controller where I live, and saved from a bin by a $1 spare part. Not bad!

Man, desoldering the joystick can be a total PITA. I ended up using pliers and just broke down the joystick into pieces and twisted them out after I had removed all the solder I could. I'd say removing a joystick nicely for spare parts would be totally impossible for my skills :D

Anyway, big thanks to @skizzo for support. Probably would not have done it if there was nobody to show it's possible :)
 

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Ok, so the parts finally arrived after being stuck in limbo in transit country for a good month.

The markings were identical and the component seemed to be the same. So today I desoldered the broken joystick (some 1+ hours) and replaced it with the new one (5 min) and I'm happy to report it's like new! I'm so happy! It's a 50€ controller where I live, and saved from a bin by a $1 spare part. Not bad!

Man, desoldering the joystick can be a total PITA. I ended up using pliers and just broke down the joystick into pieces and twisted them out after I had removed all the solder I could. I'd say removing a joystick nicely for spare parts would be totally impossible for my skills :D

Anyway, big thanks to @skizzo for support. Probably would not have done it if there was nobody to show it's possible :)


great news! glad it worked out for you!


lol love that pic of the chopped up joystick! looks like you took the advice from that youtuber I linked in here! they did the same tactic of using what looked like cutting pliers. either way, I share your pain here on how they are difficult to remove. but I did end up ruining 2 of mine....but I also successfully removed about 8+ others after making those mistakes. so I'm saying it's a learning experience and this is an art form as much as it is a skill....something you get better at with more time and experience. and also, the job is infinitely easier if you have the PROPER tool for the job....ie, a solder vacuum (to be clear, don't confuse that with a (de)solder pump/solder sucker which is nothing more than a plunger in a tube to create suction....which is what I used along with solder wick, which I think is what you used also) A solder vacuum will heat the solder and then vacuum it with a single button press. For an idea of how much better it is, it took you 1 hour to remove using non-ideal methods, it would take only 5 mins to remove with that tool.
 

Snlehton

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Yes, I used wick and the desolder pump that got some of the solder, but it's such a hit and miss as you have to be both quick and precise to make it really work. And the tip is plastic, so it melts if you get it too close to the soldering iron :D I thought I had all the solder off, but the thing would still not come off, so I ended up tearing it apart. The piece was broken anyway. The non-leaded solder can be quite difficult to get off. Had to run the desoldering iron pretty hot.

If I need to desolder more of these, I'd definitely get a proper solder vacuum. Any recommendations? Something like this would do? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001287301606.html

I'm actually tempted to get one of these as well at some point when I finish renovating my new "shed" (with or without the soldering iron): https://www.banggood.com/YIHUA-853A...Air-Gun-60W-Tin-Soldering-Iron-p-1390780.html That infrared bed makes SMD soldering sooo much easier, and might have helped here too
 
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I don't really know what makes a good one good, but that is the right kind of tool you linked. I've seen them go for much more cost wise so that could indicate there are ones out there with better features/designs by comparison. basically the diff tip sizes they include, you would use one large enough to sort of encase the solder joint, leave it there for a few secs to melt it, wiggle it around a little bit to aid with the melt, then press the vacuum button and boom, donzo in seconds compared to minutes. that solder station looks mighty fancy! has hot air capabilities too which is excellent to have. I'm an amateur at best so as far as I am concerned those tools would fit my use case, if they fit yours as well then they would be a good addition to your tool repertoire
 

Zippy_eve

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Does anyone know what joystick module is needed for the nacon illuminated wired controller for ps4 ? as I am having trouble like the rest of you in some cases.
Which one would fit as don't want to buy the wrong ones.... again...
Help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Does anyone know what joystick module is needed for the nacon illuminated wired controller for ps4 ? as I am having trouble like the rest of you in some cases.
Which one would fit as don't want to buy the wrong ones.... again...
Help would be greatly appreciated.
Simply sharing the name of your controller is not near info info to provide any help. You will need to put in an effort like the others did, such as including photos and measurements. Additional stuff like links to products, technical data, any and all details you can provide will just help out more. You'll have to provide more info and I'll help the best I can.

Get your controller apart, get the joystick module desoldered and take photos and measurements is the bare min you need to do.

Also a good rule of thumb is don't post the same question in multiple threads. we will keep this discussion here rather than the new topic you made.
 
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I might need to do this on my Xbox 360 controllers. The pair I ordered (advertised as genuine Microsoft) turned out to be fake third-party copies. Now after getting a refund, I might order some replacement analogue sensors to replace the shockingly bad no-name sensors currently in them. The analogue sticks and triggers behave more like a D-pad in terms of on-off sensitivity. Luckily it seems like genuine sensors will fit and the lack of soldering will actually help make the job easier.

1653189395476.jpeg


1653189450410.jpeg
 

flyin2pu

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I might need to do this on my Xbox 360 controllers. The pair I ordered (advertised as genuine Microsoft) turned out to be fake third-party copies. Now after getting a refund, I might order some replacement analogue sensors to replace the shockingly bad no-name sensors currently in them. The analogue sticks and triggers behave more like a D-pad in terms of on-off sensitivity. Luckily it seems like genuine sensors will fit and the lack of soldering will actually help make the job easier.

View attachment 248379

View attachment 248380
I just happened to buy this analog stick, which has a 2/3 center dead zone and moves in eight directions. 5 for 4 bucks on Amazon, you can also find it on aliexpress.
Do not use a heat gun to disassemble, the base is abs with a low melting point and will deform.
 

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Cooling CPU = EK Velocity / GPU = EK Vector
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Power Supply Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 850W
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Software Windows 10 & macOS (Hackintosh)
Poster who's asking will need to review their controller once they get it apart. Guessing is what they already did wrong and bought the wrong part, so not advisable to take more stabs in the dark.



I might need to do this on my Xbox 360 controllers. The pair I ordered (advertised as genuine Microsoft) turned out to be fake third-party copies. Now after getting a refund, I might order some replacement analogue sensors to replace the shockingly bad no-name sensors currently in them. The analogue sticks and triggers behave more like a D-pad in terms of on-off sensitivity. Luckily it seems like genuine sensors will fit and the lack of soldering will actually help make the job easier.

View attachment 248379

View attachment 248380



there are two companies making these joystick modules. ALPS and Polyshine/Favor Union. From what I can tell, they have a duopoly on the market. However, it's not like "knock offs" don't exist and that doesn't mean they are worse either. ALPS has several models than only last 500,000 pushes while others are rated for 2,000,000. This is just what they list on their data sheets, they could last longer or shorter based on a handful of variables. I've had the "name brand" units fail in 6 months and knock off's I replaced them with still feel excellent over year and half later. Honestly I think it's a your mileage will vary kind of thing and how "aggressive" you are with them when you play games

Now to go into a little more detail. Is the controller an OEM Microsoft controller? I don't remember mine looking like that, but I also have the standard white ones. Pretty sure there were headers (male female plugs) for the rumble motors and these are clearly wires soldered to pads, so I'm not 100% sure this is an OEM controller based on my limited experience. If it is OEM then you will be able to find a ton of sellers on Amazon/ebay/etc US based e-tailers selling those rather than having to go the Aliexpress China route.

For reference here is what an OEM controller should look like and is what I am used to seeing when tearing these open

Here is a link to the exact listing I have been using for Xbox 360 controllers. Note the controllers I have been putting these into are OEM Microsoft wireless Xbox 360 controllers. They may not fit in yours if it's a 3rd party controller. In that case, check out the links to the Polyshine/Favor Union website in earlier posts since chances are it would be one of their units.

 

SalNaro

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Hi there I am trying to replace a "drifting" joystick on a PowerA wired enhanced spectra Xbox One controller. Here is a link to it

From everything I read and watched I really thought I was buying the right part. But not until I tore apart the controller and de-soldered the joystick, did I realize the replacements I bought have the "click" (the downward push function of most modern joysticks) in a different position. So what I mean is the pins will not all line up to the PCB. They are all spaced the same, but positioned different. This means I can position it to line up a particular set of pins, but the others wont line up, or vise versa. I also stupidly didn't realize I got the ones with a thicker plastic post instead of the thin metal post, but that seems like something I can work around if need be.

So I have now done a lot more research but have not found the exact same looking joystick yet. Summarizing what I have found.

At least one or some Xbox 360 joysticks have the exact same potentiometers evident of the "6 0 B 103" in the corners of them. However, the stick is plastic and larger. I also tore apart an old Microsoft OEM Xbox 360 wireless controller for comparison and the one I have is clearly larger than both the PowerA unit, and the Xbox One replacement unit I bought (which is an ALPS branded unit) Link below showing the Xbox 360 one that seems close

Below are two pics of the one I am trying to replace
I believe it is a Polyshine Favor Union branded unit. And it is likely their model called "FJM10K-S1B10K01N".
Here is link to that, and below that are photos of what I am trying to replace. (I must have gotten a little careless with my heat gun lol the plastic melted a bit on one of the potentiometers as you can see in the 2nd pic)
View attachment 189253View attachment 189254



Here is a pic of what I am trying to replace, next to a pic of what I bought, as well as a link to what I bought. I circled the posts that do not match up because they are closer to the main body of the unit on the ones I bought (the green ones)
View attachment 189258



So my problem is it seems I cannot find anyone selling what resembles an exact copy of the unit in the PowerA wired controller.

Please, if you have any advice I'd love to hear from you!
Guys, I find a solution modifying the xbox one analog stick(the green one) cutting with a precision cutter. Cutting off under the black line, allows to put the button that you have cutted on the motherboard and put the analog stick on the motherboard. Works perfectly for my power a spectre, I also recalibrate the stick with the PC software, on the power a site.
Ps(sorry for my bad English)
 

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Joined
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Messages
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Processor i9-9900K @ 5.1GHz (H2O Cooled)
Motherboard Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
Cooling CPU = EK Velocity / GPU = EK Vector
Memory 32GB - G-Skill Trident Z RGB @ 3200MHz
Video Card(s) AMD RX 6900 XT (H2O Cooled)
Storage Samsung 860 EVO - 970 EVO - 870 QVO
Display(s) Samsung QN90A 50" 4K TV & LG 20" 1600x900
Case Lian Li O11-D
Audio Device(s) Presonus Studio 192
Power Supply Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 850W
Mouse Logitech MX Anywhere 2S
Keyboard Matias RGB Backlit Keyboard
Software Windows 10 & macOS (Hackintosh)
Guys, I find a solution modifying the xbox one analog stick(the green one) cutting with a precision cutter. Cutting off under the black line, allows to put the button that you have cutted on the motherboard and put the analog stick on the motherboard. Works perfectly for my power a spectre, I also recalibrate the stick with the PC software, on the power a site.
Ps(sorry for my bad English)

wow that is janky AF! :laugh: did you make a Frankenstein joystick module by chopping up two different ones? you took the joystick part with the potentiometers from an OEM Xbox controller, and combined that with the thumb click down button on the existing module that came installed on the PowerA controller? Did I get that right?! if so....lmao and good job! Does the thumb stick down click still work? Kinda looks like the piece that would push the button down is not quite long enough now as if it's just barely going to touch the edge of the button if at all.

Also I thought you were full of shit about this until I did some searching on PowerA's site because this didn't come up immediately with google. It's better than nothing, but nothing special either. I confirmed it works on both the Xbox One Spectra and Xbox Series Spectra (Infinity Enhanced) version
 
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