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Need some cooling help.

trickson

OH, I have such a headache
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I am looking for an Air cooler for my R7 1700 it runs hot hot HOT! Like 90C hot when at ful load. and the H7 aint cutting it. So is there any coolers that can actually keep this CPU from hitting 80c at 4.0GHz and 1.4vCore? or an I dreaming. I have to back down the H7 is going to melt!
 
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time for custom water cooling? Or a Corsair H115i or Swiftech H360 AIO unit? If you want to stay on air, get the best (Cryorg R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH D15)
 

trickson

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time for custom water cooling? Or a Corsair H115i or Swiftech H360 AIO unit? If you want to stay on air, get the best (Cryorg R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH D15)
No water please I am not gong to try that again.
What is the best for this CPU? Please I look and find so many it's just too mind boggling, Then I end up with things like a cooler master v8 and pay out the butt for some thing that could have been better for less cash. links too please.
 
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trickson

OH, I have such a headache
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OH yeah! I LOVE that
Noctua NH-D15, Premium CPU Cooler with 2x NF-A15 PWM 140mm Fans
That is a MONSTER!
 
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It should not run that hot, have you tried other coolers on that 1700 and whats the ambient temperature. How is the airflow in the case.
 
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trickson

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Its should not run that hot, have you tried other coolers on that 1700 and whats the ambient temperature. How is the airflow in the case.
LOL air flow LOL Really? My case is like one big open BOX! LOL. My entire case is like nothing but air flow.
IMG-9639.JPG


IMG-9641.JPG


IMG-9645.JPG
 
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If I were you I'd also look at the Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4.
 
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Definitely NH-D15 or Cryorig R1. Can't go wrong. Scythe Mugen 5 rev.B and Fuma too. The Scythe coolers are on par with those two, but tend to cost significantly less. For the money you get a really quiet, high quality, high-performing cooler. Any of those will more than adequately cool an OC'd 1700... enough to keep things reasonably quiet under anything but sustained max loads, even. Yeah, 4ghz on a 1700 @ 1.4v is up there. That's probably always gonna run on the warmer side. But, when configured at their most optimal, Ryzens aren't too hard to cool. Should still be tameable, particularly with your case setup - that's almost like a hybrid open air. Honestly I haven't seen too many cases like that. Assuming a good fan setup I think we can rule that out as a cause.

H7 is pretty good for the lower core-count Ryzens, like the 12/1300 or 14/1500. That is where those mid-compact towers shine. You have decent headroom there. Not a whole lot more, though. Even more so with the lower-end Zen+ chips. You could probably even use a 212 for those. But all of that current driving the extra cores in top-end Ryzens really adds up quickly. It's like they hit a steep threshold towards the top range where temps start to go up exponentially. High manual overclocks are a completely different ballgame from PBO and XFR. Those are pretty optimally balanced to squeeze out the most performance possible as efficiently as possible.

Your temps seem particularly high, but I can't say I'm surprised with it running like that. It's not THAT far off from what can be expected from an under-cooled, overclocked, high-end Ryzen. Pretty much lines up with my experiences.

I haven't gotten to do much overclocking of the vanilla Ryzens, honestly. Only vanilla chip I've really pushed was my own 2600, whereas for commissions I've generally stuck to X-models running stock or maybe slight tweaking when asked, only playing a little with all-core OC's just to see how they do. They generally run pretty cool with XFR and PBO configurations. And especially compared to my manually-OC'd 2600, which rapidly gains heat as I approach the max stable OC of 4.2ghz. Definitely takes some real cooling, even running it at a much lower 1.32v. Part of why I tend to avoid having to do it.

I did have a run once. When I pushed my 2600 to 4.3ghz, I was using a Scythe Mugen MAX, which is similar to the Mugen 5 and comparable to any of the coolers I mentioned before, if not just slightly trailing. At that point I believe I was running at least 1.4v, if not a touch more. And that was the point when temps started to run away like yours seems to be doing now. Couldn't comfortably do more than short stress tests (linpacks would take it almost right up to the throttle point, though they still passed.) Didn't do much more than bench it. I wish I could remember the wattage and current. I only remember that they were much higher than I've ever seen any Ryzen push under normal circumstances. I wanna say something like 190w. Something ridiculous. Efficiency just goes out the window with those high clock speeds. Like temperatures, it's not very linear at the top. I'm betting you're sitting at least a little below that sort of power/heat output under max loads.

4.2, on the other hand was warm, but doable. The power difference is major there. It pushes ~78C under heavy stress testing, 45-50C for everyday, and 65C max for gaming and some of the heavier stuff. Always idled ~32C. My case has nowhere near the airflow of yours, either.

Obviously the 2600 doesn't eat as much power as a 1700 under max workloads, but if I can push one like that under a decently high-performing air cooler, I'm sure they can also accommodate a 1700 running a more normal OC. Even at that voltage.


You might also consider dropping the clocks down a little. I don't think you'd need to with a better cooler, but it's still worth trying. The difference between 4.0 and 3.9 likely won't be significant performance-wise, but ime that little tick down can make a world of difference when it comes to voltage and temperature. Not always, but only ever when I've been more or less maxing a chip. Those last little nudges just add so much more power demand.
 
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Just because your case is all open mesh doesn't mean you have good airflow those screen shots make it look like you have no other fans bringing cool air into the case if that's the case then how about putting some quiet fans in the case to move some air around even a couple on the top drawing hot air out will make a difference to the internal air temps in that case.

Also alot of the reviews I've read say that it would perform better with a second fan in a push/pull config and I'd say the reason why is that the one fan they do supply is pretty short on CFM at full speed 49cfm isn't that great so that would be another thing to look at changing the fan to fans with better one may just well solve your problem
 
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I agree with @Athlonite, an open case isn't always the best for cooling.
What is there in an open case to direct airflow apart from the fans themselves.
That style of open mesh case would be better suited to liquid cooling IMO.
 
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Athlonite made some Very valid points.
I have 4 case fans, 1 front intake, 1 side intake, 1 rear exhaust and 1 top exhaust.
I run the intake fans @ 60% and up and the exhaust fans slightly slower.
I also bought my Artic cooler with just 1 fan which kept my CPU @ ~ 32-34C @ idle and ~ 65C max.
After adding a second fan to my cooler it now idles @ 27-30C and maxes out at ~ 55-56C.

I just read this review:
https://www.eteknix.com/arctic-freezer-34-esports-duo-review/5/

And the test results show that your current cooler (with 2 fans) should cool even better than my Arctic 33.
So if I were you I would definitely add a second fan to it and add some case fans and see what temps you get then.
 
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trickson

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Athlonite
I just read this review:
https://www.eteknix.com/arctic-freezer-34-esports-duo-review/5/

And the test results show that your current cooler (with 2 fans) should cool even better than my Arctic 33.
So if I were you I would definitely add a second fan to it and add some case fans and see what temps you get then.
You are all correct! I just put a second fan on and WOW what a HUGE difference! Only seen 81c running cinabench R20 twice in a row!
I did what you said and it is fine now. This CPU litteraly just crashes once it reaches 91c.
Okay well that seems to have worked.
Thank you all very much, Still going to pick up the NH-D15 though not just yet I have time now.
 
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You are all correct! I just put a second fan on and WOW what a HUGE difference! Only seen 81c running cinabench R20 twice in a row!
I did what you said and it is fine now. This CPU litteraly just crashes once it reaches 91c.
Okay well that seems to have worked.
Thank you all very much, Still going to pick up the NH-D15 though not just yet I have time now.
H7 with its three heat pipes is being overwhelmed with all the cores from your R7. I would actually suggest the U14s for $20 less and similar performance and easier install IMHO

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=noctua+U14s&qid=1554827187&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
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Still going to pick up the NH-D15 though not just yet I have time now
Make sure your motherboard is on their compatibility list. Most likely, you will want to get the D15S, but I will add another vote for the Scythe Fuma. Just check out the review: Scythe Fuma Review
 
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Stephanie Barnes

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For my Laptop, I was given a gift of a
platform fan. You lay your laptop on top of a plastic lap lift with a fan underneath to cool your laptop from the heat. This cradle keeps it off your bed from the lint and dust. It is inexpensive, like under 10 dollars, It has an USB cord attached, like the charger that comes with your mobile phone, to run the fan. It is a cheaply made cooling system for a laptop.
 

trickson

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What kind of monstrosity is that?
Minion of Pleebos, It is the Mighty Zodd, Why have you angered Zodd with your trivial question?
Keep your mouth closed when you address the MIGHTY ZODD!
When the MIGHTY ZODD wants YOUR opinion HE will give it to you!

THE MIGHT ZODD HAS SPOKEN!

Wow Sorry folks... Zodd can get a bit cranky when you address HIM as a monstrosity.

I will talk to him calm him down and tell him you did not mean it, Hope he don't challenge you! MAN this can get ugly bad fast!

For my Laptop, I was given a gift of a
platform fan. You lay your laptop on top of a plastic lap lift with a fan underneath to cool your laptop from the heat. This cradle keeps it off your bed from the lint and dust. It is inexpensive, like under 10 dollars, It has an USB cord attached, like the charger that comes with your mobile phone, to run the fan. It is a cheaply made cooling system for a laptop.
Okay thanks.... But I do not think a LAP top fan is going to cool my Ryzen 7 1700 CPU or any part of my desktop, But thanks.
 

trickson

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H100i

So can anyone tell me what this might be able to do as for cooling a Ryzen 7?
 
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If you are looking at D15s, consider a True Spirit 140 Power. It costs 50 bucks on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermalright&qid=1555037651&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use it on my main rig. I also have a Le Grand Macho RT, which performs as good, or better ( in the reviews) as D15. But its 80 bucks for LGMRT. Even though TS140P is 30 bucks cheaper, it performs better than LGMRT, which means it performs better than a D15, for 50 bucks. You can throw in another 20 bucks, and grab a TY143 fan, 130cfm at full gallop vs the stock 74. H100 sounds good right? Its not bad. You have a good cpu, so it wont be hard to saturate the H100 with heat. Trust me, I ran an x5690 on one for about 4 years, maybe 5.. with much more powerful fans. It works ok for quad cores. Worst case scenario, if you don't like TS140P, you can always get your money back. But honestly, its about as good as your going to get in the world of air cooling.

Edit:

TS140P is rated for 360w, LGMRT is rated for 320w, and can be run passively. or throw a TY143 on it, and it kicks it up a notch performance wise. They are both awesome.
 
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trickson

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If you are looking at D15s, consider a True Spirit 140 Power. It costs 50 bucks on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermalright&qid=1555037651&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use it on my main rig. I also have a Le Grand Macho RT, which performs as good, or better ( in the reviews) as D15. But its 80 bucks for LGMRT. Even though TS140P is 30 bucks cheaper, it performs better than LGMRT, which means it performs better than a D15, for 50 bucks. You can throw in another 20 bucks, and grab a TY143 fan, 130cfm at full gallop vs the stock 74. H100 sounds good right? Its not bad. You have a good cpu, so it wont be hard to saturate the H100 with heat. Trust me, I ran an x5690 on one for about 4 years, maybe 5.. with much more powerful fans. It works ok for quad cores. Worst case scenario, if you don't like TS140P, you can always get your money back. But honestly, its about as good as your going to get in the world of air cooling.
Sweet thank you so much for this information! This is really very helpful!
Thank you again..
 
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Processor X5690 ES
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Not a problem, happy to help.
 
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Software Windows 10 X64 PRO (build 2004)
Benchmark Scores it sucks even more less now ;)
I'm not surprised the TS 140 power works so well with 8mm heatpipe x 6
 
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I'm not surprised the TS 140 power works so well with 8mm heatpipe x 6
That's a very interesting heatsink 8mm heatpipe.

I bumped into a website that said a single 6mm heatpipe is rated up-to 45w, but I can't remember what 8mm pipe is rated at. I think it's rated up-to around 52w, but this is just a wild guess as I did not save the link. If anyone has information on what a single heatpipe is rated up-to, please post link so that my posting can be corrected.
 
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