New PC build turning off during in windows installation

[Clockyer]

Hello,
i have built myself a new pc, installation of everything seemed to go absolutely fine. I have built PC’s before only 2 but nothing too difficult. All these parts are brand new.
Quickly for reference here are the parts inside;

AMD Ryzen 9 5800x
MSI Tomahawk x570s max wifi motherboard
MSI Suprim X 3080 ti
Corsair Vengeance DDR4 ram 16GB
Samsung 980 pro M.2 NVME
Lian Li AIO 240 Galahad
Corsair RM850w PSU 80+ gold
Lian Li O11 Dynamic case
Lian Li SL120 fans x3 w/ controller

So the issue, basically I have installed windows 11 on to a usb, inserted into the USB port at the back of the PC. Everything starts absolutely fine. Now, when I’m getting into the installation of windows, it just shuts off for no reason no error message or blue screen etc. I have tried swapping out the PSU for my old one that works fine a RM750, no luck. Tried taking off the AIO, reapplying thermal paste and no luck. However, I noticed some thermal paste had got onto the pins (rookie error sorry) of the cpu and a little on the mobo, which I cleaned of best I can. So I checked the BIOs after sorting this, and same issue, but this time i noticed the CPU was running very hot around 82 degrees and climbed from 70 to 82 in a matter of seconds. The connection is 100% right between the AIO and the cpu. I noticed the power lead coming from the AIO cpu part, is a 3 pin connector but can not find any 3 pin AIO headers on the mobo? I can see the “CPU_fan_1” header, and pump fan 1 header and sys fan 1 and 2, but all are 4 pin connectors? I connected in the power lead to the pump fan 1, and all the other case fans and radiator to the Lian Lin controller which in turn is connected to a sata power from the PSU and another header on the mobo.

any advice would be massively appreciated as I’m close to swallowing my pride and taking it to a PC shop

thanks!

 

[Toothless]

Checked bios to see if pump is actually running? Properly mounted cooler?

I know you mentioned it's at 100%, but is it actually reading that it's on?

 

[Clockyer]

How do I check this in the BIOS? Sorry, I only have limited time before the PC shuts itself off even in the BIOS

 

[cvaldes]

I noticed the power lead coming from the AIO cpu part, is a 3 pin connector but can not find any 3 pin AIO headers on the mobo? I can see the “CPU_fan_1” header, and pump fan 1 header and sys fan 1 and 2, but all are 4 pin connectors? I connected in the power lead to the pump fan 1, and all the other case fans and radiator to the Lian Lin controller which in turn is connected to a sata power from the PSU and another header on the mobo.

This is your error: "I connected ... all the other case fans and radiator to the Lian Lin controller".

The fans on the Galahad 240mm radiator need to be plugged into the the motherboard's CPU_Fan1 header. Modern motherboards will shut down if they don't detect any current on this header. This is a safety mechanism to prevent damage to the CPU.

Read the owner's manual for the AIO. It should give the correct instructions and hopefully provide an appropriate diagram so users don't do what you just did.

The 3-pin cable from the AIO waterblock head is indeed the wire for the coolant pump which is normally plugged into the Pump_Fan1 header. Do not plug this into your Lian Li fan controller.

The fan controller is intended for chassis fans.

 

[Clockyer]

This is your error: "I connected ... all the other case fans and radiator to the Lian Lin controller".

The fans on the Galahad 240mm radiator need to be plugged into the the motherboard's CPU_Fan_1 header. Modern motherboards will shut down if they don't detect any current on this header. This is a safety mechanism.

Look at the owner's manual for the AIO. It should give the correct instructions and hopefully provide an appropriate diagram.

Okay cool so unfortunately the instructions are not very clear on the AIO manual. I will try and take the CPU fans out from the controller and into that header and see if that helps.

 

[cvaldes]

Your Galahad AIO cooler probably included a Y-splitter for the fans. Plug that into CPU_FAN1 and run the two 120mm radiator fans off of it. You'll see that one of the connectors on the splitter has four pins. That's the one that your motherboard will use for fan speed telemetry via PWM.

 

[Clockyer]

So I have the new ones that are daisy chian-able, I took out the connection that was in the controller and put that into the CPU fan 1. But it still turned off during windows installation.

Your Galahad AIO cooler probably included a Y-splitter for the fans. Plug that into CPU_FAN1 and run the two 120mm radiator fans off of it. You'll see that one of the connectors on the splitter has four pins. That's the one that your motherboard will use for fan speed telemetry via PWM.

It seemed like it had worked but unfortunately still turned off

 

[cvaldes]

The Galahad AIO cooler likely shipped with some pre-applied thermal paste. Please confirm that you removed the protective plastic sticker before you seated the waterblock on the CPU. Some others have forgotten to remove this sticker, that's why I ask you to confirm this.

If all is well, continue to the next step.

Don't attempt to install Windows, just invoke the UEFI menu and head to Hardware Monitor. What sensor readings do you see for CPU_FAN1 and PUMP_FAN1? Stay in that UEFI screen for 5-10 minutes. Any change in those numbers?

Take photos with your phone to post here if you like.

 

[nomdeplume]

I personally would undo every psu connection to the mobo and reseat them. No fan controller or anything but your AIO plugged into the correct place on mobo. No GPU or other cards. No hard drives. Then attempt a boot into BIOS.

 

[cvaldes]

I personally would undo every psu connection to the mobo and reseat them. No fan controller or anything but your AIO plugged into the correct place on mobo. No GPU or other cards. No hard drives. Then attempt a boot into BIOS.

He's going to get a blank screen that way.

The Ryzen 7 5800X does not have integrated graphics. OP needs to plug in a GPU.

Moreover his GPU works. After all he's able to see long enough to start the Windows installation of his USB stick.

Reseating all of the power cables on the motherboard is a good sanity check. Also the two 8-pin PCIe cables on the 3080 Ti. Another strategy would be to use just one stick of RAM during the Windows installation process. There's always a small chance that he has bad RAM, particularly with all brand new hardware for a new build.

 

[Clockyer]

The Galahad AIO cooler likely shipped with some pre-applied thermal paste. Please confirm that you removed the protective plastic sticker before you seated the waterblock on the CPU. Some others have forgotten to remove this sticker, that's why I ask you to confirm this.

If all is well, continue to the next step.

Don't attempt to install Windows, just invoke the UEFI menu and head to Hardware Monitor. What sensor readings do you see for CPU_FAN1 and PUMP_FAN1? Stay in that UEFI screen for 5-10 minutes. Any change in those numbers?

Take photos with your phone to post here if you like.

This is what I managed to get a picture of before the pc turned off

Looks to me like pump 1 isn’t working?

 

[cvaldes]

PUMP 1 shows 0 rpm.

AIO coolant is not flowing through the radiator. Your CPU is overheating after a few minutes and shutting down. Your car's engine will do the same thing if the water pump fails.

 

[Clockyer]

He's going to get a blank screen that way.

The Ryzen 7 5800X does not have integrated graphics. OP needs to plug in a GPU.

Moreover his GPU works. After all he's able to see long enough to start the Windows installation of his USB stick.

Reseating all of the power cables on the motherboard is a good sanity check. Also the two 8-pin PCIe cables on the 3080 Ti. Another strategy would be to use just one stick of RAM during the Windows installation process. There's always a small chance that he has bad RAM, particularly with all brand new hardware for a new build.

Which ram should be left in? A2 or B2?

PUMP 1 shows 0 rpm.

The coolant is not flowing through the radiator. Your CPU is overheating after a few minutes and shutting down.

Okay, how do I solve this? Is it dodgey AIO?

 

[cvaldes]

Okay, how do I solve this? Is it dodgey AIO?

Temporarily try another fan header on the motherboard and be ready to shut off your system. Your goal is to quickly head to Hardware Monitor and see if RPM isn't zero.

If it's still 0 RPM, the AIO is likely defective.

 

[Clockyer]

Temporarily try another fan header on the motherboard and be ready to shut off your system. Your goal is to quickly head to Hardware Monitor and see if RPM isn't zero.

If it's still 0 RPM, the AIO is likely defective.

Unfortunately yes this is the case, still 0. On both Sys fan 1 and 2. Seems a faulty AIO.

 

[cvaldes]

Bummer, time for you to get a replacement AIO. At least you identified the problem.

 

[Clockyer]

Bummer, time for you to get a replacement AIO. At least you identified the problem.

It is but thank you for your help, I would of had a lot more trouble probably never finding that and having to pay a shop to help. Thanks man. Will post back here again when a new AIO comes and hopefully that’s it!

 

[Teams02]

Do you have the pump connected to the pump header on the motherboard and the fans connected to the cpu header on the motherboard?. If you select pump1 in the bios you should be able to click on pwm or dc and it'll spin up. Untick smart fan.

 

[nomdeplume]

He's going to get a blank screen that way.

The Ryzen 7 5800X does not have integrated graphics. OP needs to plug in a GPU.

Moreover his GPU works. After all he's able to see long enough to start the Windows installation of his USB stick.

Obviously. "All these parts are brand new" made me wonder if something might reveal itself starting from a clear board. Error/beep code included. By removing video he might notice something momentary.

Reseating all of the power cables on the motherboard is a good sanity check. Also the two 8-pin PCIe cables on the 3080 Ti. Another strategy would be to use just one stick of RAM during the Windows installation process. There's always a small chance that he has bad RAM, particularly with all brand new hardware for a new build.

Exactly. Start removing variables from the equation. OP seemed levelheaded enough to start figuring things out on their own given reassurance help would be available.

In the end if a pin isn't connecting on his AIO you might expect other issues in manufacture. Diagnosing this theoretical (and possibly correctable) failing would inform how he looked at installing new hardware. Not only at a screen.

Intuitively noticing something doesn't look right when you pull it out of the box can save a lot of trouble.

 

[cvaldes]

By removing video he might notice something momentary.

Well, everyone here can see the photo he took of his UEFI screen. Video card displays a usable signal. Remember that the CPU has no integrated video. He'll only get POST beep codes if he plugged in a speaker. His motherboard might have an LED that displays diagnostic codes but his system passes POST anyhow and arrives at UEFI.

The problem is thermal relating directly to CPU cooling. Looking at the screen it's idling at 67 °C moments before it shuts down (because the pump isn't moving coolant). Trust me, I know because I've made the mistake of forgetting to plug in the pump header myself.

In the end if a pin isn't connecting on his AIO you might expect other issues in manufacture. Diagnosing this theoretical (and possibly correctable) failing would inform how he looked at installing new hardware. Not only at a screen.

Unfortunately I don't have long distance X-ray vision and can't see inside his computer components.

The pin is connecting, the problem is somewhere within the pump circuit. Whether it's a wire or the pump itself, no one is going to find out. If OP dissects the AIO pump he'll void the warranty and there's no guarantee he'd identify the problem anyhow so that point is moot.

Intuitively noticing something doesn't look right when you pull it out of the box can save a lot of trouble.

Again, that's up to each person to draw upon their experience and use their best judgment. Clearly OP has never installed an AIO before and probably has never owned one either.

If the pump is mechanically defective, you wouldn't see in anyhow since it is hidden under a metal or plastic cover just like you can't see if a given car has engine problems if you look at a parking lot full of them.

In any case, I can only answer questions here. It's not like I can improve anyone's reading comprehension, see inside their computer components with X-ray vision, bestow hands-on experience, increase common sense, make them RTFM/STFW, etc.

Hell, half of the "what ____ should I buy" questions here don't even specify usage cases or budgets. And most of the "help me fix my computer" don't provide product model numbers, photos of the affected equipment, etc. and rarely offer descriptions on what the owner did.

Fortunately, OP was able to go through this step by step and even coughed up a photo when finally asked. It rarely happens this way these days. Sometimes getting relevant information is like pulling teeth. Trying to assist someone like that is pretty melancholy.

 

[Zach_01]

Looked from the start that it was a thermal issue. CPU going to 80+C within seconds and then a shutdown...
Had the exact same issue once when I forgot to power AIO completely

If the pump is connected to a 4-pin board header and the pump connector is a 3-pin, may OP check settings of that header in BIOS. If its on DC/PWM/auto mode. It should be on DC mode for 3-pin.
Maybe the best place to connect pump is the optional header next to CPU fan header. Often designated as CPU_OPT as this can power a regular AIO pump.

 

[Chrispy_]

"Rats nest of cabling" and "we have to wonder if RGB has gone too far when it requires this much instruction to configure"

I think it's fair to say that the Galahad is a f*cking nightmare to wire in properly, especially for a beginner who's only built 2 PCs before and has confusing if not useless instructions.

It's possible that the AIO is fine but it's just too complicated to wire up in a working state. @Clockyer - have you tried removing all cabling from the AIO apart from the (hardwired) pump connector? Ideally, test this by plugging it into CPU_FAN1 on the board and power up the PC - your AIO has enough thermal mass that it'll run for several minutes without fans so long as the pump is at least moving the water around the loop.

If the BIOS reads zero still, then it's definitely a dead AIO. In theory you should be able to feel some vibration if you put your finger on the pump block too.
As @Zach_01 says above, DC/PWM/AUTO mode should be set to DC for 3-pin and PWM for 4-pin though I doubt this is the problem because in my experience the wrong setting here just results in the fans or pump running at full speed, never at zero.

 

[cvaldes]

Looked from the start that it was a thermal issue. CPU going to 80+C within seconds and then a shutdown...
Had the exact same issue once when I forgot to power AIO completely

If the pump is connected to a 4-pin board header and the pump connector is a 3-pin, may OP should check settings of that header in BIOS. If its on DC/PWM/auto mode. It should be on DC mode for 3-pin.
Maybe the best place to connect pump is the optional header next to CPU fan header. Often designated as CPU_OPT as this can power a regular AIO pump.

Why would the motherboard manufacturer label a fan header PUMP_FAN1 if it wasn't the intended location for a pump?

Note that OP already unsuccessfully tried different fan headers for the AIO pump.

While I don't own the OP's motherboard, I do own other MSI boards and an ASUS mobo that does have CPU_OPT. At least on the Asus mobo, this is not a good header for the AIO pump. If I recall correctly, a 3-pin pump motor runs at full speed (12V DC) since it doesn't receive a PWM signal to control the motor speed and there's no way to enforce a different setting on CPU_OPT.

You can't make CPU_FAN1 a PWM/Auto source and CPU_OPT a DC source and have separate fan curves.

The second issue is that there is no sensor reading from CPU_OPT so the user can't monitor AIO pump speed. You can see this in the OP's screenshot of the MSI board's UEFI: no CPU_OPT reading.

I believe the primary use for CPU_OPT is for tower air coolers with two fans.

If you put the AIO pump on PUMP_FAN1, you can set that header to DC source and control the pump separately while getting pump speed telemetry from the sensor for monitoring.

 

[Zach_01]

At least on the Asus mobo, this is not a good header for the AIO pump

Why its not a good header?

If I recall correctly, a 3-pin pump motor runs at full speed since it doesn't receive a PWM signal to control the motor speed.

And that why I wrote this:

If the pump is connected to a 4-pin board header and the pump connector is a 3-pin, may OP check settings of that header in BIOS. If its on DC/PWM/auto mode. It should be on DC mode for 3-pin.

In any case where ever its plugged in it should be on DC mode and not on PWM because its a 3-pin.

BTW, you can have rpm regulation with 3-pin as long as the fan/pump supports variable rpm, but only on DC mode

 

[cvaldes]

I know that.

Why its not a good header?

Ask MSI. They're the ones who silkscreened CPU_FAN1, PUMP_FAN1, etc. on their motherboards. They also write the owner's manuals.

Do you think they just came up with PUMP_FAN1 even though they think CPU_OPT is a better header? Is MSI that stupid? And Asus does the same? Are they equally illogical?

Gee, I must be a foolish simpleton for giving MSI, Asus and the others the credit for implementing a reasonable approach.

Or maybe Gigabyte does something completely different? I don't know anything about that since I have no Gigabyte products at the moment.

In any case where ever its plugged in it should be on DC mode and not on PWM because its a 3-pin.

Modern motherboard always send some current to all fan headers in the default configuration, regardless of whether the fan header is defaults to Auto, PWM, or DC source. The default fan curves never start at zero rpms; this is a safety decision by the motherboard manufacturers when they program their UEFI.

Go ahead and do a full factory reset on your motherboard or pull the tape off the static bag and pull out your brand new motherboard. Plug in one 3-pin fan per motherboard header and power up. Every single fan will spin. Incidentally, that's an easy way to check that all fan headers are delivering power when you first take possession of a motherboard. It's also a good way to check if any given fan works too.

BTW, you can have rpm regulation with 3-pin as long as the fan/pump supports variable rpm, but only on DC mode

I know that. It's mentioned in some manuals as well. You set fan power by inputting voltages instead of percentage. But the fact is that you can't split out sources between CPU_FAN1 and CPU_OPT.