Onkyo TX-SR508 and TX-SR608 No Sound!

[AsRock]

Does it work using the RCA\Phono outputs ?, or does the tuner work ? ( try without DSP settings ). if no maybe the DSP chip is\has failing which is a very common problem with receiver HDMI devices.

Well, I already started looking for another make and think between Yamaha RX-V677 or Sony STR-DN1050 or other which supports 4K!
What is your advice as pro in this category!

I have 677 unit here and it's not to bad, how ever the HDMI HDCP meets your requirements as it don't support HDCP 2.2 which maybe or may not be a concern.

EDIT: If the RX-v677 is on your list make sure the HTR-6067 and RX-A740 as they are pretty much the same units.

 

[Operandi]

Yes, I have speakers. Just need good amp which support 4K and at least to be 5.1 . . . . I have room and if I don`t have place for surround i can do, I am builder. Just need advice from you, which will be better for almost nonstop use!

I'm strictly about two channel audio so I'm pretty clueless when it comes to AVRs but between the two I'd go with Yamaha as a brand.

Random side note, I just discovered through some Gooling that Onkyo bought Pioneer in 2015? My current amp is A9 Elite and it looks like Onkyo killed off all of Pioneer's two channel efforts, thats pretty sad.

 

[Ferather]

The Sony STR-DN1050 won product of the year awards 2014, I guess we need someone who has, or has owned both, and what speakers they used?
I don't think its a safe comparison if someone has only owned 3-4 AVRs in their lifetime, and they are all one brand.

Just saying.

 

[xDaemon]

Today I have played a bit and found that I can get audio from tuner but only in zone 2 line and with my Mission 7AS2 dual subwoofer! I have tried other speakers, but no audio.

 

[Ferather]

Sounds like component failure on the speaker connectors, can you check your speakers ohms (impedance, Ω) please, and let me know.

 

[xDaemon]

Sounds like component failure on the speaker connectors, can you check your speakers ohms (impedance, Ω) please, and let me know.

here
P.S. I found cheap Yamaha RX-V677 and ordered it, I hope will work (fingers crossed), because seller says it`s power on only tested!

 

[Ferather]

Default for RX-V677 is 8 ohm, Setting the RX-V667 Speaker Impedance - Yamaha - United States
Interestingly the failed Onkyo TX-SR508, if the EU version, could have done 4 ohm, else 6.

Either way it was not the cause (*unless maybe set wrong), so good luck with the new purchase.

 

[xDaemon]

Default for RX-V677 is 8 ohm, Setting the RX-V667 Speaker Impedance - Yamaha - United States
Interestingly the failed Onkyo TX-SR508, if the EU version, could have done 4 ohm, else 6.

View attachment 227689

Either way it was not the cause (*unless maybe set wrong), so good luck with the new purchase.

Thanks for your time @Ferather and others who tried to help me! I hope will get help again if I need with New purchase Thanks again.

 

[Ferather]

I was learning with you, I have never owned an AVR. No problem, it was fun trying to discover the issue from here, seems I failed though hehe.

 

[bug]

Thanks for your time @Ferather and others who tried to help me! I hope will get help again if I need with New purchase Thanks again.

Just a heads-up, I own the RX-V675, and after using the supplied mic to set it up, it has the nasty habit of setting the woofer cutoff to something like 30Hz, leaving little to no signal to be sent to it.
If you go through the set up and you're left wondering where the bass went, that's where I'd start. The bass is a little lacking even after that, but that may just personal preference.

 

[Ferather]

What happens if you do crossover to LFE pre-input to AVR (on the sound output device)? For example 180Hz crossover, to LFE channel, then out to AVR.

 

[bug]

What happens if you do crossover to LFE pre-input to AVR (on the sound output device)? For example 180Hz crossover, to LFE channel, then out to AVR.

No idea. The input device is usually either the TV or some device casting Spotify. Neither can set the crossover freq, I'm afraid (the TV might, but I don't recall seeing the setting till now).

 

[Ferather]

Shame

 

[bug]

Shame

Do you think it would make a difference? I mean, the TV is hooked up over HDMI (obviously) so it will send Dolby as needed, I don't think it plays with crossover. I've set it up as passthrough as well as I could.

 

[Ferather]

I am not sure with AV units, It does with my setup, both PCM and transcoding PCM to DTS Surround. The APO's (PCM), I am using have crossover, and gain.

"I've set it up as passthrough as well as I could." Perfect, but be aware Spotify, YouTube, etc go through the PCM portion of HDMI-SPDIF.
Passthrough (aka Bitstreaming), is for digital audio formats, which essentially are compressed PCM files, not PCM direct.

Edit: If I play an MP3-AAC through my media player, because its not normally streamed direct, its decoded to PCM, then played as PCM.

 

[bug]

I am not sure with AV units, It does with my setup, both PCM and transcoding PCM to DTS Surround. The APO's (PCM), I am using have crossover, and gain.

I'll check again, I do make a habit of going through all the "advanced" setting, but LG doesn't do a stellar job with UX.

"I've set it up as passthrough as well as I could." Perfect, but be aware Spotify, YouTube, etc go through the PCM portion of HDMI-SPDIF.
Passthrough (aka Bitstreaming), is for digital audio formats, which essentially are compressed PCM files, not PCM direct.

Edit: If I play an MP3-AAC through my media player, because its not normally streamed direct, its decoded to PCM, then played as PCM.

Passthrough is for TV (cable, Netflix & co). For the others, it's Android, I'm not sure what that thing outputs. I'm guessing PCM, but the absolute refusal of my receiver to display any shred of info (save for the number of channels) about the input signal is amazing.

 

[Ferather]

Yep, I literally added DTS APO4 to HDMI along with DTS Interactive. Ultra and Sound Unbound on any PCM capable device.

Edit: There is also Boom3D, which has a mobile product also.

 

[Operandi]

Default for RX-V677 is 8 ohm, Setting the RX-V667 Speaker Impedance - Yamaha - United States
Interestingly the failed Onkyo TX-SR508, if the EU version, could have done 4 ohm, else 6.

View attachment 227689

Either way it was not the cause (*unless maybe set wrong), so good luck with the new purchase.

When it comes to the impedance switch on the back of amplifiers (if it has one) leave it at 8ohms regardless of your speakers rating.

The most concise and to the point explanation that I've found as to why is actually on these forums HERE. You can Google it further if you want more technical details.

 

[Ferather]

I only buy pre-built sets, where the amp and speakers are made-configured together, if it breaks I get some spares, but otherwise buy a new kit.
My setup is all 4 ohm, which is the lowest resistance (more power-music), 6 ohm is a good average, 8 ohm is the top.

 

[Operandi]

I only buy pre-built sets, where the amp and speakers are made-configured together, if it breaks I get some spares, but otherwise buy a new kit.

Well the speakers will certainly work with your amp if they are bundled together the best thing you can do is get the best speakers you can and the best amp that will effectively power them.

My setup is all 4 ohm, which is the lowest resistance (more power-music), 6 ohm is a good average, 8 ohm is the top.

Power is just the relationship of voltage and current. Ohm is the unit of resistance in the circuit and while 4 ohm is the lowest resistance a speaker will typically present to amp it has nothing to do with music power and on its own doesn't really mean much.

Try this video from PS Audio for a basic description of what it means in relation to audio.

 

[Ferather]

Its effects RMS, for example, 100 W at 8 ohms, or 200 W at 4 ohms. In my case I have 335 W @ 4 ohms, If I used 8 ohm speakers that will drop.

 

[Operandi]

Its effects RMS, for example, 100 W at 8 ohms, or 200 W at 4 ohms. In my case I have 335 W @ 4 ohms, If I used 8 ohm speakers that will drop.

This isn't a straight forward topic and there is a ton of confusion on the internet about this. It affects the circuit and behavior of the amplifier yes but dosn't really mean much of anything.

Looking at something like RMS in relation to ohms the best you can really get from something like that is if an amp is 4 ohm stable at a given wattage it will have more power than a amp that is only stable at 8 ohm at the same given wattage. Thats a gross oversimplification though and if you think an amp that is rated at 100 watts at 8 ohms and 200 watts at 4 ohms is going to produce twice the musical power with a 4 ohm speaker than a 8 ohm speaker thats not how it works.

I think this article does a pretty good job of explaining; The Truth About Speaker Impedance.

 

[Ferather]

Was an interesting read.

====

Here is a way of looking at it, and correct anything if wrong, but imagine the ohms as a pipe size, the smaller the number, the larger the pipe between amp and speaker.
The cable gauge, quality and length also make a difference in terms of resistance (pipe size), even Wifi and other radio-efi transmissions can be conducted.

Imagine a 0 ohm amp and 0 ohm speakers, with optical cables, the sound signal should be 100% with no degradation or introduction of outside signal.

A theoretical situation. Now imagine 0 ohm amp and speaker set with 12 years warranty, that's some serious hardware quality.
A 0 ohm amp, working at 4 ohm, and only ever 150 W based on volume, that's rated at 1000 W, should last ages.

====

Here is something that tickles me, in this example we would measure the signal dB, and THD, THD-N. If a speaker reaches its max dB limit, it can alter the signal dB.
Imagine it in the same way you increase-decrease the volume on SPDIF when using Toslink, and having a standardized power circuit for speakers.

As I think about it, I can't strictly see where the Ohms would come into it, between the amp and speakers.

 

[bug]

This isn't a straight forward topic and there is a ton of confusion on the internet about this. It affects the circuit and behavior of the amplifier yes but dosn't really mean much of anything.

Looking at something like RMS in relation to ohms the best you can really get from something like that is if an amp is 4 ohm stable at a given wattage it will have more power than a amp that is only stable at 8 ohm at the same given wattage. Thats a gross oversimplification though and if you think an amp that is rated at 100 watts at 8 ohms and 200 watts at 4 ohms is going to produce twice the musical power with a 4 ohm speaker than a 8 ohm speaker thats not how it works.

I think this article does a pretty good job of explaining; The Truth About Speaker Impedance.

It won't produce twice the power, but it will produce more.

One way to express power is P=U^2/R, where U is voltage (constant) and R is resistance (impedance's poor cousin). So yes, lowering impedance means you get to draw more power from the same amp. Of course, that means more power draw and more distortions, that's why we don't see 0.001ohm speakers

 

[xDaemon]

Well, I have got my Yamaha and it have sound. Updated firmware successfully, now need proper drivers from this site and some one who own that unit, can tell me which is better to use it direct PC to Yamaha and then to TV with HDMI or PC to Yamaha with S/PDIF ? And better settings for it!
Thanks in advance!
Edit : I am with Windows 11 if that is important!
And better cable for speakers wiring! Is That cable good?