Onkyo TX-SR508 and TX-SR608 No Sound!

[1freedude]

Is the TV used as a television, or monitor? Try it this way: PC into TV, TV doing ARC on hdmi to Yamaha. Hard to put a good answer here. Not enough info.

Do you have a standalone Blu ray player? Set-top cable or satellite? Antenna? Android/apple tv? Will you use more than one monitor on PC? Will Yamaha change source selection, or TV?

 

[xDaemon]

Is the TV used as a television, or monitor? Try it this way: PC into TV, TV doing ARC on hdmi to Yamaha. Hard to put a good answer here. Not enough info.

Do you have a standalone Blu ray player? Set-top cable or satellite? Antenna? Android/apple tv? Will you use more than one monitor on PC? Will Yamaha change source selection, or TV?

TV is used for monitor and is Samsung UE55JS9000! I dn`t have Blu ray player, only Nvidia Shield 2017!
btw which wifi antenna I can get Yamaha?

 

[1freedude]

Hard-wired network is best. If you must use wifi, a standard rp-sma antenna will work

 

[xDaemon]

Hard-wired network is best. If you must use wifi, a standard rp-sma antenna will work

I prefer wired network, but in some places need less cables

 

[Operandi]

It won't produce twice the power, but it will produce more.

One way to express power is P=U^2/R, where U is voltage (constant) and R is resistance (impedance's poor cousin). So yes, lowering impedance means you get to draw more power from the same amp. Of course, that means more power draw and more distortions, that's why we don't see 0.001ohm speakers

Everything in that statement is technically correct all things being equal which things never are in the real world, with spec exaggeration and how speakers are used in the real usage. As you said the harder you drive the amp the more distortion will increase, its not linear and all amps behave differently. The other thing to keep in mind is a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker is not a constant rating; its nominal and varies quite a bit across its frequency range. The more important figure might be the minimum impedance.

I think the only thing you can really conclude is in terms of speakers its not really a sign of anything other than the end result of design choices, 4 ohm speakers are not better than 8 ohm speakers or vise versa. Most high-end speakers are still 8 ohm and if I had to guess I would suspect that the reason is to keep the load amp reasonable during demanding peak transient response. Be aware of the speakers rating and make sure you amp will be ok with it but don't draw any conclusions about a speaker based on it.

With amps on the other hand; yeah if an amp is capable of driving 4 ohms speakers and lists the power figures thats definitely at least a sign of quality vs. one that isn't or doesn't list the power figures. Definitely something to look at when looking at an amp.

 

[thesmokingman]

It won't produce twice the power, but it will produce more.

One way to express power is P=U^2/R, where U is voltage (constant) and R is resistance (impedance's poor cousin). So yes, lowering impedance means you get to draw more power from the same amp. Of course, that means more power draw and more distortions, that's why we don't see 0.001ohm speakers

A rare low ohm setup are Teslas. Their systems are designed to run at 1ohm to 2ohm and the speakers are hyper efficient with neo magnets. However this is a very specific design and use case.

 

[bug]

Everything in that statement is technically correct all things being equal which things never are in the real world, with spec exaggeration and how speakers are used in the real usage. As you said the harder you drive the amp the more distortion will increase, its not linear and all amps behave differently. The other thing to keep in mind is a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker is not a constant rating; its nominal and varies quite a bit across its frequency range. The more important figure might be the minimum impedance.

I think the only thing you can really conclude is in terms of speakers its not really a sign of anything other than the end result of design choices, 4 ohm speakers are not better than 8 ohm speakers or vise versa. Most high-end speakers are still 8 ohm and if I had to guess I would suspect that the reason is to keep the load amp reasonable during demanding peak transient response. Be aware of the speakers rating and make sure you amp will be ok with it but don't draw any conclusions about a speaker based on it.

With amps on the other hand; yeah if an amp is capable of driving 4 ohms speakers and lists the power figures thats definitely at least a sign of quality vs. one that isn't or doesn't list the power figures. Definitely something to look at when looking at an amp.

We got all that from the earlier article, no need to repeat everything.
But what you seem to have missed is lower impedance speakers connected to the same amp will be louder. Not twice as loud, not uniformly across the whole spectrum, but louder nonetheless.

 

[Deleted member 202104]

But what you seem to have missed is lower impedance speakers connected to the same amp will be louder. Not twice as loud, not uniformly across the whole spectrum, but louder nonetheless.

No.

The impedance of a loudspeaker has no relation to how loud it plays. That's based on it's sensitivity rating.

 

[Operandi]

We got all that from the earlier article, no need to repeat everything.
But what you seem to have missed is lower impedance speakers connected to the same amp will be louder. Not twice as loud, not uniformly across the whole spectrum, but louder nonetheless.

From a theoretical perspective just looking at the circuit you would extract more power yes but in real world usage is pretty much a meaningless figure. A speakers ohm rating isn't going to tell you how loud it will be it only tells you what the load will be on the amp, loudness for a given power is the speakers sensitivity. The sensitivity (loudness) is derived from several factors, the nominal ohm rating being one of them.

 

[Ferather]

@bug, indeed, but it would be nice to see smart speakers [SS 1.0] and rated PSU's on AV's other, many problems solved. There is no reason not to send lossless PCM direct to speaker, via optical.
It's a bit like, here is your rated power, here is your pure (or as possible) audio signal, off you go. The speaker wont go above its own specs, a bit like active speakers.

Since we would be sending a digital signal to the speaker, a digital filter could be used if wire is used over optical, there is also power DAC's.

It's a theoretical idea, I am not an AV expert.

@xDaemon, PC > HDMI > Yamaha > HDMI > TV. Depending on the HDMI versions on the GPU, TV etc, you should get more format support.
PC to Yamaha should not need any drivers from Yamaha, just make sure the GPU or HDMI from PC is up to date.



The Yamaha should show as a monitor device in Windows:



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Edit: @weekendgeek, take a look at ohms and spl (sound pressure level).

 

[xDaemon]

@xDaemon, PC > HDMI > Yamaha > HDMI > TV. Depending on the HDMI versions on the GPU, TV etc, you should get more format support.
PC to Yamaha should not need any drivers from Yamaha, just make sure the GPU or HDMI from PC is up to date.

View attachment 228057

The Yamaha should show as a monitor device in Windows:

View attachment 228058

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My GPU is NITRO+ RX 580 8G and I ordered HDMI 2.1 to be sure that is good enough What about this cable it`s good or should I take 4mm!

 

[Operandi]

What about this cable it`s good or should I take 4mm!

Never heard of that brand before but you are in a different region so I may just not be familiar with it.

That said, thats only 18 gauge? I'd probably suggest 14 AWG equivalent as wire can make a difference and that way you have it for whatever you get down the road. You'll also want to make sure you using decent banana plugs, spades ect., or just go bare wire but stay away from really cheap connectors.

 

[bobbybluz]

That cable is copper coated aluminum. I'd never use that for anything. 14 or 16 gauge lamp cord is far better than that. How much power will you be pushing through it and at what length? Stranded or solid copper wire is the only way to go. Stranded is easier to work with and is less expensive. I did professional audio installations for many years and the only speaker wire we ever used was zip (lamp) cord or low voltage outdoor wire.

 

[Operandi]

That cable is copper coated aluminum.

Wow, it is. It even says so.... I didn't see in the word salad description.

WTF, I didn't think that even existed. Don't buy that (and tell your friends, lol), you want pure copper wire for sure.

 

[xDaemon]

That cable is copper coated aluminum. I'd never use that for anything. 14 or 16 gauge lamp cord is far better than that. How much power will you be pushing through it and at what length? Stranded or solid copper wire is the only way to go. Stranded is easier to work with and is less expensive. I did professional audio installations for many years and the only speaker wire we ever used was zip (lamp) cord or low voltage outdoor wire.

Honestly I am doing this for first time and don`t know which to get ! I won`t push much power, but I prefer to be stronger(if I can say that) The length will not be more than 10-11 meters, so can you tell me exactly which cable to get and about banana plugs I thing to use it without plugs just to receiver and to speakers!

 

[Operandi]

The KabelDirekt stuff looks to be quality cable, their banana connectors look ok too.

 

[bobbybluz]

Two of these will be more than enough for you. Unless you're planning on plugging and unplugging the speaker wiring often I wouldn't bother with banana (Pomona) connecters. The speaker terminals have holes in them for the wiring. Screwing the terminal caps down makes a better and more solid connection than banana plugs. Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation off the cable ends, twist the stripped ends then put them through the holes in the terminals and tighten them. Make sure to observe the correct polarity, the cable will have a raised ridge of some sort on one of the wire sides. Use that side for the + (red) terminals.
Southwire 55682121 25-Feet 16-Gauge, 2 Conductor 16/2 Type SPT-2 Lamp Service Parallel Cord with Thermoplastic Insulation, White, Foot - Cord Reels - Amazon.com

 

[Ferather]

Don't forget to tin the ends, copper oxidizes increasing resistance. Some extra info here on gauge and resistance.