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PC Audio System Configuration

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I would need an opinion on the configuration of the PC audio system.

Usage is gaming and high quality music. (Stereo).

The sound card will be a Sound Blaster Z or an Sound BlasterX G5.

The speakers are a Bose Acoustimass 7 (2.1) system.

The headphones are Superlux HD681 EVO.

Also I have an old Technics SU-V40 amplifier.

1) I would like to know if in your opinion using this amplifier will make a difference in the audio performance, both of the speakers and of the headphones, or if it is better to connect everything to the PC sound card.

2) In my configuration, which is better between the Sound Blaster Z and Sound BlasterX G5?

3) If I choose the blasterX, how do I connect it to the amplifier which is analog (it has RCA input)?
 
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Here's a post I wrote in the show off yer purchase thread. Needless to say I'm not using internal sound or another soundcard, no need to with a Fiio K5 Pro. Btw, I had a ZXR card, rolled a bunch of expensive OPAMPs and its still no comparison to the K5 Pro as a head amp.

Recently dumped my pc surround setup and went back to stereo. In the process I splurged a lil bit and got a half decent DAC and head amp combo, the Filo K5 Pro. I then mated that to a 2ch desktop amp, a Micca Origain. I reused the Polk RM10 satellites previously used. The K5 Pro is a ridiculously good value with its DAC choice. The Origain is pretty good too and I appreciate the preout for my AJ subwoofer. The other thing is that I was able to reclaim a lot of desk space, especially w/o a Dayton BS36 bar under my panels.

View attachment 135460
 
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You cant get highest quality music from any PC audio card.
But for basic home audio needs your setup it will be satisfactory.

I own an old and extremely costly HiFi system, with high quality three way speakers and entire system at price class of 3500 Euros.
If the input this is PC audio, you are aware of it instantly, the frequencies range gets limited.
This is why the dedicated CD player that I own this is also a piece this complying at high audio standards.
Everything is made in Japan, and the speakers are Philips made in Holland (designed to deliver best sound of analog music instruments) .
 

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Back then Technics were kinda all over the place in sound, like one would be smooth sounding and another being very forceful. You will have to try it and find out.

Personally i would sell the bose never liked any but it's all a matter of preference, like a forceful sound can be tiring but dam Matalica sounds really nice with a such setup but would be horrid for the slower type music.

Maybe pick up a DAC with phono outputs and USB ( i guess ) so you can connect it to the amp and PC.

I gave in years ago with DAC's and just have a seperate system for my music.

You cant get highest quality music from any PC audio card.
But for basic home audio needs your setup it will be satisfactory.

I own an old and extremely costly HiFi system, with high quality three way speakers and entire system at price class of 3500 Euros.
If the input this is PC audio, you are aware of it instantly, the frequencies range gets limited.
This is why the dedicated CD player that I own this is also a piece this complying at high audio standards.
Everything is made in Japan, and the speakers are Philips made in Holland (designed to deliver best sound of analog music instruments) .
Everyone hears different and because you spent 3.5k on a system means nothing for the most part.
 
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Everyone hears different and because you spent 3.5k on a system means nothing for the most part.
I think my self as lucky, at 90s I did worked as HiFi audio systems presenter and as customer technical advisor.
I had the privilege to use the master wooden console , this one offered the choice of actual sound test between all pairs of speakers and any of available amplifier within the shop.
While I did select correctly my pair of speakers, I got fooled due the small testing space and I got the Technics SU-600 (2x40W).
This amp were replaced in a month time with a true 2x120W RMS which has speakers protection circuit and it does deliver free of saturation frequencies range up to 90% of volume.
I am enjoying 100% satisfaction for over 25 years so far.
 

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And i used to shop all over the UK 2-3 days a week but it has nothing to do with it.

But he want help with PC sound cards and if he wants to do that he would need a DAC.

And for that maybe the DragonFly by Audio Quest ?, again personally not found one i actually like but generally people do.
 

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personally i use a xonar dsx out via optical( because it outputs 5.1 via optical) to a onkyo av amp with 2x wharfdale 7.1 on my desk, and a sony 100w sub.
 
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Back then Technics were kinda all over the place in sound, like one would be smooth sounding and another being very forceful. You will have to try it and find out.

Personally i would sell the bose never liked any but it's all a matter of preference, like a forceful sound can be tiring but dam Matalica sounds really nice with a such setup but would be horrid for the slower type music.

Maybe pick up a DAC with phono outputs and USB ( i guess ) so you can connect it to the amp and PC.

I gave in years ago with DAC's and just have a seperate system for my music.



Everyone hears different and because you spent 3.5k on a system means nothing for the most part.
so you say that a DAC is preferable to sound cards (internal or external like the Z or the G5) even for a mainly gaming one?


if so, is there anything in the low price range? (I could buy the discounted Z or the G5 at a low price, in used equipment)
 
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To me, it comes down to how far you want to take it. But if you want my honest opinion, I wouldn't think too hard on the source for those little bose speakers. You've got 2.5" drivers pulling the heavy work of the majority of the frequency range, in teeny little enclosures. Two 5.25" drivers in a small ported box, good bass performance does not make. Physics gets in the way of how good that all can ultimately sound. So many limitations to that design. You could plug them into a gigabuck amp and they wouldn't scale up much. They are what they are. Made to plug into basic receivers as an upgrade to useless TV sound.

Honestly, kind of the same for those headphones. They're great headphones for the cash, but they're not known to scale to upstream gear either. It's one of those things where there's no point getting a better signal if the transducers themselves can't resolve it anyway. It may not be the improvement you hope for. Rule of thumb for better sound upgrades always starts with speakers/headphones, followed by amps, and finally DACs. Meaning if you don't already have good speakers you really like, you don't wanna be shopping for amps, let alone DACs.

I wanted to say more - I have some ideas, but I realized you didn't specify what kind of space. Is this a desk, a couch, a closet? What about is your budget? What specifically do you want out of an upgrade? Your PC will accommodate what you have already. You can plug one of these into your speaker out on the mobo, and into your amp, which can pull double duty for the speakers and headphones.
 
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Ok, clear.
So, for my audio system, in order to improve the sound of the sound card integrated in the motherboard a little, I understand that a DAC is useless; instead, between a Z and a G5 which one should I choose?
 

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so you say that a DAC is preferable to sound cards (internal or external like the Z or the G5) even for a mainly gaming one?


if so, is there anything in the low price range? (I could buy the discounted Z or the G5 at a low price, in used equipment)
I say it depends on what you like, i still like vinyl over most, DAC for ease i would say plugs in to your PC and AMP ( if you have the correct connectors )

I like analog audio more than digital, matter of preference and everyone hears differently.

IF your talking new maybe check out some shops that do demo's, although that might be out of your price range, the more info you give everyone the better they can help you.
 
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instead, between a Z and a G5 which one should I choose?
G5 hides a trap = No Dolby decoding = DVD movies playback limitation.
G6 this is more all in one.
Z this is limited to TOSLINK headphone connectivity, but this is rather useful for anything else.

Z = no2 choice if G6 this is too-much for your wallet.
 
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