PC boots to windows desktop - then shuts down without any errors.

[Ruvik]

Hello guys

So I recently made a rebuild of my PC after encountering a cooler leak,
and the PC shuts off right after it already booted and reached Windows Desktop area and start-up programs launch.

-I am using all old components as they seem to work fine after the leak.
-All ram sticks register (system still shuts down if i test individual ramsticks)
-The VGA does the output on the monitor
-CPU works and the system goes all the way to the Windows desktop.

Do you guys have any suggestions on why it could be shutting down after all components seem nominal?

The system would also shut down after around the same amount of time, even if I go to Bios and avoid booting to Windows.

Any suggestions?
I tried a new PSU along with new power cables, but there is no difference between what happens. The PSU by the way endured the largest brunt of liquid soaking into it.
Also, just fyi, I also made a liquid metal repaste for CPU and GPU. However, from what i read, if something went wrong with liquid metal and CPU, it would be dead and not booting to windows.

Really need some help.

 

[eidairaman1]

Is it just suddenly powering off or is it going through soft off?

 

[MrGenius]

Whenever I've had that happen it's always been graphics card related. Not the card itself. But the graphics drivers or MSI Afterburner. In either case they need uninstalled/reinstalled. Boot into safe mode. If that works, it points to what I'm talking about being the cause. Plus you'll need to be in safe mode to uninstall the drivers, and/or delete some files from the MSI Afterburner folder in C:\Program Files(x86).

Wait...it shuts down in the BIOS too?. You've got major hardware issues. Tear everything apart and find where the liquid metal is...that it shouldn't be.

 

[eidairaman1]

Whenever I've had that happen it's always been graphics card related. Not the card itself. But the graphics drivers or MSI Afterburner. In either case they need uninstalled/reinstalled. Boot into safe mode. If that works, it points to what I'm talking about being the cause. Plus you'll need to be in safe mode to uninstall the drivers, and/or delete some files from the MSI Afterburner folder in C:\Program Files(x86).

I go into regedit to remove AB remnants but what I just said might be a little too advanced for some.

 

[Ruvik]

Is it just suddenly powering off or is it going through soft off?

It suddenly powers off, no errors, no sounds, all fans stop.

Whenever I've had that happen it's always been graphics card related. Not the card itself. But the graphics drivers or MSI Afterburner. In either case they need uninstalled/reinstalled. Boot into safe mode. If that works, it points to what I'm talking about being the cause. Plus you'll need to be in safe mode to uninstall the drivers, and/or delete some files from the MSI Afterburner folder in C:\Program Files(x86).

Wait...it shuts down in the BIOS too?. You've got major hardware issues. Tear everything apart and find where the liquid metal is...that it shouldn't be.

Thing is, I tried just launching the system with the graphics card pulled out of its PCIe slot. It still turns off about right after the same amount of seconds, as it takes for the PC to reach the windows desktop ;(

 

[eidairaman1]

Breadboard the rig. Sounds like overheating or a short somewhere.

 

[Ruvik]

Breadboard the rig. Sounds like overheating or a short somewhere.

i guess some sort of short circuit somewhere on the mother board? It did endure a leak after all from the CPU block point, all the way down to the PSU and the center-bottom of the MOBO.

The temperatures though are really good, but those that belong to the CPU.

 

[eidairaman1]

i guess some sort of short circuit somewhere on the mother board? It did endure a leak after all from the CPU block point, all the way down to the PSU and the center-bottom of the MOBO.

The temperatures though are really good, but those that belong to the CPU.

Ok do you have contact cleaner?

 

[Ruvik]

Ok do you have contact cleaner?

I have the contact cleaner spray from Maxipro, and also Isopropyl alcohol spray for electronics. And the compressed air too. I used them all over the board initially after the leak occured. However, i might've been not thorough enough.

This short though, is it a right symptom as related to when the system fully boots and even launches the start-up programs? Like in my last boot I was even able to update my Steam lol

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

pull the gpu and cpu apart, dont clean anything and take pics and post them for us.

 

[Ruvik]

pull the gpu and cpu apart, dont clean anything and take pics and post them for us.

That will take me some time to drain and disassemble the custom loop, but i will surely post pictures as soon as it is ready.
Stay tuned guys and thank you for your will to help.

 

[EarthDog]

Sounds like a dead short. Breadboard it.

Otherwise, binary test parts at a time to find the culprit.

 

[qubit]

This could be a lot of things, but an overheating CPU is consistent with this behaviour in the bios too. The overheat is obviously fairly slow, or the shutdown would be almost immediate. See if you can monitor the temp in the bios before it shuts down - expect to see it climbing rapidly and then... boom. Then, remove the CPU and refit it with new paste. Is the pump actually working?

IMPORTANT Don’t boot it into Windows until you’ve fixed it, since you’re only damaging the file system and Windows every time it does that.

Please fill in your system specs so we can help you better.

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

With a custom loop using Liquid Metal is over kill

 

[eidairaman1]

With a custom loop using Liquid Metal is over kill

Arctic Silver 5
Arctic MX 4
Cooler Master Gel Maker
Gelid GC-Extreme
Thermalgrizzly Kryonaut should be used...

 

[Ruvik]

With a custom loop using Liquid Metal is over kill

I just did it because i was very dissapointed with RTX and Radeon VII launch, and i have doubts about hyped performance of Ryzen. So i thought i will just refresh some things to allow me running 6850K and 1080 Ti for another 2-3 years.

Arctic Silver 5
Arctic MX 4
Cooler Master Gel Maker
Gelid GC-Extreme
Thermalgrizzly Kryonaut should be used...

I am using Thermalgrizzly Conductinaut

 

[eidairaman1]

I just did it because i was very dissapointed with RTX and Radeon VII launch, and i have doubts about hyped performance of Ryzen. So i thought i will just refresh some things to allow me running 6850K and 1080 Ti for another 2-3 years.


I am using Thermalgrizzly Conductinaut

Is that an aluminum cooler?

 

[Ruvik]

Is that an aluminum cooler?

no sir,
I read the big ass letters to not use liquid metal with aluminum
I have nickel plated copper/plexi monoblock for Rampage 5 Edition 10, and same for a GTX 1080 Ti

 

[eidairaman1]

no sir,
I read the big ass letters to not use liquid metal with aluminum
I have nickel plated copper/plexi monoblock for Rampage 5 Edition 10, and same for a GTX 1080 Ti

Sometimes that nickle plating can cause the cooler to not have even mounting on the cpu. If anything pull the block straight up. Take pictures, purge your water loop, check your pump.

 

[Ruvik]

Things seem to be normal with the CPU. It doesn't seem that the liquid metal substance ran over the CPU cover. Whether the block has a proper contact with the CPU is unclear to me either. The CPU tempts that i was able to record for the short time that the CPU was operating, the temperature was like 25-29 degrees Celsius.

I am not sure whether i should do the same disassembly for the GPU. It does yield an output on my monitor, and I also tried booting the PC with the VGA disconnected.
Obviously i could not see things happening on the monitor due to VGA absence, but the PC shut itself down in the same fashion as with the VGA connected, after around the same amount of seconds.

 

[eidairaman1]

Try a spare psu, after that swap the motherboard.

 

[Ruvik]

Try a spare psu, after that swap the motherboard.

I actually have a new PSU that I initially bought for this problem, as I was convinced it was the PSU that got wrecked after soaking most of the coolant liquid (aside the motherboard being soaked too ofc).
However, after spraying the old PSU with contact cleanser and isopropyl, and then drying it, it seems to work in the same way as the new PSU along with the new power cables.
Both of them perpetuating the same eventual shut off problem.

So i suppose my mobo is fucked or something? I was just hoping that if PC is able to boot, launch windows, and basically run the windows-installed software for a minute or 2, that it would indicate the mobo is intact.

Damn... The thing i wanted to replace the least.

 

[Candor]

It does seem like a possible short, the damage may already be done.

I can see areas of green and red stains on your motherboard. Not the first spill?

If it was me, I'd be inclined to wash the whole motherboard, then dry it thoroughly in an oven on low, and re-test.

Failing that, I say take off and nuke the whole site from orbit.

 

[eidairaman1]

It does seem like a possible short, the damage may already be done.

I can see areas of green and red stains on your motherboard. Not the first spill?

If it was me, I'd be inclined to wash the whole motherboard, then dry it thoroughly in an oven on low, and re-test.

Failing that, I say take off and nuke the whole site from orbit.

I utilize contact cleaner spray

 

[Ruvik]

It does seem like a possible short, the damage may already be done.

I can see areas of green and red stains on your motherboard. Not the first spill?

If it was me, I'd be inclined to wash the whole motherboard, then dry it thoroughly in an oven on low, and re-test.

Failing that, I say take off and nuke the whole site from orbit.

I kind of had smears from way back, but they were a combination of Arctic-clean paste removers, contact cleaner being sprayed on the board, and isopropyl alcohol. I just noticed the red patch myself . But I like the oven suggestion.