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PC Refuses To Boot Again 1 Month After Reinstalling Windows

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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
So I made a bootable contest USB, booted into it, and I just get this message.
Side note: Your OS is borked, period. Overclocking and changing voltages will not help with that. You need to repair windows or reinstall... THEN tweak your voltages, etc. If it works in safe mode, then it is something low level OS/driver related that is corrupted.


Drive failure?
CDM is a benchmark... I dont think it reads SMART data.

Try Hard Drive Sentinel..
Avrona said:
Ok so I downloaded it and that shows my drive as also completely fine.
 
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Flash the BIOS from the BIOS...not Windows. That is how you should do it in the first place.

But I'm confused, you said you are at the latest version....

...why are you flashing again (and not following the other instructions?). My suggestion is to focus on one thing at at time... you're all over the map (per usual).


Side note: Your OS is borked, period. Overclocking and changing voltages will not help with that. You need to repair windows or reinstall... THEN tweak your voltages, etc. If it works in safe mode, then it is something low level OS/driver related that is corrupted.
Exactly, and starting with an OS that's corrupt won't help, your unlikely to be able to save the OS.
If it's baulked, start by unbaulking it.
But if it were me I would do it with ram at jedec settings of 2133.
It is your ram IMHO ,patriot viper sell cheap but very compatible memory In my experience.
Did you already swap ram's from what to vengeance Lpx? ,
And four sticks, bought in two pairs no doubt or as a quad set?.
 
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Exactly, and starting with an OS that's corrupt won't help, your unlikely to be able to save the OS.
If it's baulked, start by unbaulking it.
But if it were me I would do it with ram at jedec settings of 2133.
It is your ram IMHO ,patriot viper sell cheap but very compatible memory In my experience.
Did you already swap ram's from what to vengeance Lpx? ,
And four sticks, bought in two pairs no doubt or as a quad set?.
I did swap the RAM out last year, but that was mainly because I needed DDR4 RAM for my new motherboard and CPU and not DDR3. I do already have it set not to run in XMP so should I try to reinstall Windows with that setting then? And in the end what could be causing it still seeing how at this rate I will be reinstalling Windows every month.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
I did swap the RAM out last year, but that was mainly because I needed DDR4 RAM for my new motherboard and CPU and not DDR3. I do already have it set not to run in XMP so should I try to reinstall Windows with that setting then? And in the end what could be causing it still seeing how at this rate I will be reinstalling Windows every month.
We've answered what we feel is the problem. We are, yet again, waiting for you to listen with comprehension and follow instructions in order to weed things out. Asking the same questions again and again in the face of this is frustrating to say the least (and par for the course... I swear you would be better served taking some Ritalin, lol).

Clearly, Avrona, he is talking about swapping out the RAM on your NEW system, not an old one... why would you think that matters........?

Did I miss something or are we going down the Avrona hole again... I can't do it, lol. o_O :ohwell:
 
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I did swap the RAM out last year, but that was mainly because I needed DDR4 RAM for my new motherboard and CPU and not DDR3. I do already have it set not to run in XMP so should I try to reinstall Windows with that setting then? And in the end what could be causing it still seeing how at this rate I will be reinstalling Windows every month.
Did you buy a quad set or two dual channel sets?

And no stop using XMP it's an Intel standard AMD has no legal or technical ties to use or formally test.

It does sometimes work, but that's not garaunteed.

Try jedec stock 2133 then you will have to work to gain better speeds once the problem IS resolved.
 
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So I finally went to reinstall windows, I plugged in my 2 drives which I would need to do so on another, fully working PC, and now that one won't turn on...
 
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So I finally went to reinstall windows, I plugged in my 2 drives which I would need to do so on another, fully working PC, and now that one won't turn on...
Why, download windows 10 usb stick installation software from Ms have it make a usb install drive on a usb stick and run it on it's own solely with the install drive.

So regardless of pc, you want just the drive to install on fitted and a win10 install usb.

No other drive fitted.

Putting a corrupt OS drive in a system with a working OS has clearly confused the motherboard bios boot order.

It's usually managed but it's not got AI , it's dumb, and doesn't automatically know what to do if it sees two drive's with windows on, it also has no idea which works or which you intend to boot from.

I have asked twice ,this will be the last time I think.

Did you buy four memory sticks as a quad set?

Or two separate dual channel kit's?

It matters.
 
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You never managed to boot off Memtest because your motherboard is set to boot off the windows boot manager before the USB in UEFI mode.

In the BIOS you need to enable legacy boot and then either use the boot overrides to boot off the memtest USB stick or put the USB boot above the system drive or windows boot manager in the list.

Did I miss something or are we going down the Avrona hole again... I can't do it, lol. o_O :ohwell:

I'm starting to see what you mean lol. Instructions aren't followed but new problems are being added to the mix at an impressive rate instead ;)
 

BikeHelmet

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You seem to want a shotgun fix rather than methodical troubleshooting & diagnosis, but you haven't listed all of your specs, which is problematic. I will try to help, but with so little info I can't be very precise. I have built a lot of Ryzen systems though, so I might at least be able to point you in the right direction.

#1 reason that I have seen Ryzen be unstable is untuned memory.
#2 reason is too high wattage PSU causing severe voltage fluctuations.
#3 reason is too high core voltage. (Drop it to improve stability.)
#3b reason is too high LLC or inverse LLC (some motherboards) which causes #3.

Many motherboards have bad RAM profiles, especially for Corsair memory. They will pull incorrect settings which you must override. G.Skill and Kingston profiles are pretty good, so many of those drop in okay. Then you just enable XMP and set the right speeds and voltages and off you go. The latest beta BIOS's have improved RAM compatibility a lot, so grab the latest betas if RAM is your trouble causer.

For testing you will want to set your RAM voltage to 1.4 or 1.45v. A lot of people with Ryzen will buy 800-1000w PSUs of bronze or lower quality. Power supplies run best in the 20-75% load range. Down under 5% load, like when just starting the boot process, some lower quality PSUs have RAM voltage fall well out of spec. I have seen 0.06v droop. (1.2v -> 1.14v) which is obviously completely atrocious. The only solution to such enormous droop is to crank that voltage up. If it's rated 1.35v, set it at 1.40 or 1.45v. That ought to do it. Hopefully it doesn't do the inverse of a droop and fry it. Samsung B-Dies can take like 1.7-1.8v before death, so there is some wiggle room here depending on your RAM, but if your PSU or mobo VRMs regulate poorly, expect gradual RAM degradation from voltage variations, and eventual death. And buy a better PSU next time. I run a 550w Titanium one. They were cheap - nobody wanted those for mining. It was like $120, and the voltages don't even change in software. They just stay the same. Really tight regulation.

Okay, you have 3000mhz RAM. That's less than ideal. Ryzen works best with 3200mhz RAM. (or 3600mhz for the 3000 series... soon Ryzen CPUs with 2000mhz internal will exist, so then 4000mhz will be ideal for them). I would try to hit 3200mhz, even if you have to loosen your timings 7%. Just go in and check all the Auto settings, bump them up 7% with a calculator, rounding up. Then try 3200mhz and see if it POSTs.

If you're on 1st gen Ryzen, set voltage to 1.4-1.45v. For 2nd gen, 1.3-1.35v or less. For 3rd gen, 1.2-1.25v or less. Start at stock speeds, turbo and C1E power saving off. After you get a clean Windows install you'll bump up your stock speed slowly, then run OCCT and see if your system crashes/freezes. I have always found that Ryzen systems die if you overvolt them. (Which happens on Auto settings.) By dropping voltage a bunch, I could unlock several hundred mhz extra. It'd look something like this:

Ryzen 2700x 8 core
1.150v: 3.7ghz limit
1.175v: 3.8ghz limit
1.200v: 3.9ghz limit
1.225v: 3.9ghz limit
1.250v: 4.0ghz limit
1.275v, 4.0ghz limit
1.300v, 4.0ghz limit
1.325v, 4.0ghz limit
1.325v, 4.0ghz limit
1.350v, 4.1ghz limit
1.375v, 3.8ghz limit
1.400v, 3.7ghz limit
1.425v, 3.6ghz limit

Ryzen is not over-voltage tolerant, so to get a really stable system you need to do the tuning before you dive into using it (as you may corrupt your OS), and select a high quality power supply before you start a build. Otherwise - headaches ensue.

Hope it helps. P.S. Best to be methodical if you want to know what actually fixed it in your case. But if you do all that, there's a good chance it at least POSTs and you can install Windows and start tuning from there.

A list of all your parts would certainly help with being more specific.
 
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