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Replace mouse with what..

Waldorf

Waldorf

Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Messages
2,275 (0.81/day)
Location
Ibiza, Spain.
System Specs
System Name Main
Processor R7 5950x
Motherboard MSI x570S Unify-X Max
Cooling converted Eisbär 280, two F14 + three F12S intake, two P14S + two P14 + two F14 as exhaust
Memory 16 GB Corsair LPX bdie @3600/16 1.35v
Video Card(s) GB 2080S WaterForce WB
Storage six M.2 pcie gen 4
Display(s) Sony 50X90J
Case Tt Level 20 HT
Audio Device(s) Asus Xonar AE, modded Sennheiser HD 558, Klipsch 2.1 THX
Power Supply Corsair RMx 750w
Mouse Logitech G903
Keyboard GSKILL Ripjaws
VR HMD NA
Software win 10 pro x64
Benchmark Scores TimeSpy score Fire Strike Ultra SuperPosition CB20
seems to start having trouble with the left click.
looked at about 20 of the last reviews here, and seems that basically nothing below 100$ is trouble free, so for now i need something as cheap as possible that i wont throw at the wall 5 min later.

anything wireless with 1000 dpi/polling is fine, not worried about battery life past 30h, prefer a larger mouse, 5-6 buttons, and good if i can change button layout.
 
Click issues happened to me on a basic office scrollwheel mouse that basically carried me from the WinXP era.
Picked up a Zelotes C-12 and it's been a joy. I don't even understand how I managed to get by without it.
You'll notice there are many SKUs and they all look like copies of each other or different colors, which...Yeah sort of.
The differences are mostly packaging but there are a few primary differences in button styling, arrangement and profile.
All of those products are supposed to have minor differences between two very specific designs but they don't have it, so it's all just one product.
The one I received is a shielded-wired FULLY programmable ergonomic right hander with adjustable RGB, weights and polling (1000-4000).

The side button design is freakishly close to what I look for in a gaming mouse and I have relatively shorter than average thumb reach, so the layout is kinda big.
The top side red button is really out of the way compared to regular click action, the wheel feels average but not too sloppy and the +/- buttons are very satisfying.
The programming software provides basic features and really good macro coverage. It's basically a mouse with a fully programmable keyboard system for the buttons.
I believe that applying settings flashes some internal memory to the mouse because I can set whatever, take it to another computer that doesn't have the software and it works fine.
I don't know if it's flashing just one part of its memory. It might be possible to set one of the buttons to be a profile toggle and effectively have a 2x11-btn rigging.
 
Logitech G502X. They use hybrid optical switches so in theory shouldn't suffer from a lot of the double clicking and other issues that plague alot of omron switches
 
@DaemonForce
thnx, but i hate wires on mice, unless temporary for charging.
(looks identical to the one my friends son got as gift from Lidl; did seem decent)
 
G305.
 
Waldorf said:
thnx, but i hate wires on mice, unless temporary for charging.
Click to expand...
Quite understandable. I have a cable catch/feed at the end of my desk to not interfere with motion but I also have what's called a fingertip grip, so I'm gonna have issues anyway. There are some wireless models but I've noticed that all the mice with red injection mold plastic for the bottom all seem to share the exact same junk sensor as the low quality wireless mice that have really bad left click issues, so I avoid all of those.
 
@FreedomEclipse
@dgianstefani

guess ill hold off, as im still looking at ~50$, so i rather wait and get a good one later.
worst case i found a razer on amazon for 28, if it completely gives up.
 
There is a wired and wireless G502X just so you know
 
Waldorf said:
seems to start having trouble with the left click.
Click to expand...
DudeBeFishing said:
Take it apart and replace the switch. I did that on my G400 years ago and it's still clicking.
Click to expand...

Last mice i tried to repair had some wear on the plastics. As the force back is only done by plastic. I have no idea how to repair all those "broken" bend back plastic

The switch hardly died. Broken cable issues are also gone.

you may clean the mouse first and check if the mouse button switch inside is dead.

When I see a cheap deal on a gaming mouse i buy it. Even in advance. Most stuff dies after 3 years here.
 
i went with a Razer Basilisk V3 (wired and wireless avail) , after trying the G502 ,Red Dragon
 
@FreedomEclipse
sure, but then im around 100$, i rather go all in and get what i want, with some nice hw.

@_roman_
my mouse never gets dirty (inside).
and its not even 2y old, so not from wear on other parts.
it is the switch, not dea, as im still using it, but it lets go, without me taking finger off the button.

@DudeBeFishing
yeah, not gonna happen. looked at it a year ago when someone did an upgrade repair, and its a pain to get it back together in working condition,
and by the time i count parts (not gonna do all the work for just one), unless i buy cheaper switches and add some other component (resistor?!),
and solder it together, plus having to buy a proper solder station, is about half the cost of a new one.
then i rather pay and get a new one, without the added repair work..
 
Unironically look into ATK F1 and VXE R1. They are decently sized, fairly cheap and can do everything you described without any real compromises.
If you like egg shapes, Fantech Aria II released recently and is also well built and capable for not a lot of money.
 
@Onasi
nice, but i need mmmore buttons, lol.
but yeah, at least 5 besides the wheel.
@DirtyDingusMcgee
yeah, on sale for 28, but only if mine fails completely before i have funds for a better one.
 
@Waldorf
Redragon Impact Elite then maybe? Cheap, tons of buttons, large, wireless.
 
xu^ said:
i went with a Razer Basilisk V3 (wired and wireless avail) , after trying the G502 ,Red Dragon
Click to expand...
I have a G502x, a Glorious Model I 2 and the Bassilisk V3 Pro. I too went with the Razer. Best button clicks out of any of them and good build quality right there with the G502x. The Model I 2 needs work but still decent.
 
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@Onasi
i remember seeing it on amazon when i was looking at other gaming gear.
wont ship to me (island).
and, maybe a little less for buttons is fine, 6-8..
 
@Waldorf
You aren’t making this easy, are you? Okay… Lemme think. HyperX Pulsefire Raid is exactly what you want, but it’s wired, unfortunately. The Logitech G604 is also a thing, but discontinued, so maybe try to find remaining stock?
Otherwise, the options really are either a Razer Basilisk or a Glorious Model I. But those ARE pricey.
I am sorry, I failed you.
1733008476321.png
 
lol, all good.
like i said, i will keep using it until i can get something in the 3 digit range, worst case some wireless basic one from A. will carry me there
 
kind of. last time plus 10y ago, and no hw to do it properly
 
My SS wireless has lasted years, every other mouse always got left click issue/s before end of warranty.

But yes if you know how to get new switches for it, might want to keep away from the feather touch ones.
 
dont care about force needed, just noise.
probably just gonna gift it to someone i know will tinker with it.
 
If you are using gnu linux. I diagnose my mouse with XEV. X-Window system event viewer. There i can see mouse movement events and mouse click and mouse click release events.
 
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