STAR CITIZEN - RSI POLARIS Project

[kmp.cooling]

I've never thought that I would see "case" like this , I'm glad I've added thread to watched
And thanks for update, waiting for more

Any custom engraving, or custom stick-on RSI logos? I can imagine it looking like a Polaris main computer, as a system part.

Fake ship fuses could look good also, somewhere inside the case but unused space.

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"Computer, play Star Citizen"

Thanks so much to both of you for the support and awesome ideas!

This is definitely an ambitious build, and I’m aiming to make it feel like a living system module, as if it came straight out of a Star Citizen ship.
As for the aesthetics: yes, I’m planning on adding custom engravings, RSI logos, and military/futuristic elements. I’m already working in CAD on some stencil templates. The idea of fake ship fuses is absolutely brilliant — I might include them in a secondary bay or as a functional-looking prop.

Stay tuned, more updates are coming soon

 

[kmp.cooling]

First Color Tests & MDPC-X Order​

Hi everyone!

I’ve just placed an order with MDPC-X for all the sleeving gear I need for the custom cables in my Star Citizen mod: premium sleeves, color sample packs, and transparent micro heatshrinks for super clean and precise finishes.

I’ve also started testing some cable color combinations for ATX, EPS, PCI-E, SATA, and Molex cables. It's still early, but here are some first visual mockups

As always, I'm aiming for full aesthetic and functional customization—right down to the wiring!

Let me know what you think about the color schemes! I’d love to hear your feedback, suggestions, or ideas.

 

[kmp.cooling]

Hey everyone!

After a bit of behind-the-scenes work, here’s a slightly different update.

I’ve started working on the aesthetic side of the mod, experimenting with custom stencils and graphics for component detailing. For this, I dusted off my trusty old Silhouette Cameo 2 – outdated, yes, but still getting the job done like a champ!

In the pics you’ll see:

• Vinyl cutting in progress
• Manual weeding with precision knives
• First test application on a radiator surface

I designed graphics inspired by the RSI Polaris, including:

• "POLARIS – Danger Engine"
• "RSI"
• "RAD X 360MM"
• and more tech-styled visuals to replicate the vibe of a real starship subsystem.

It’s still an experimental phase, but so far I’m happy:

"Clean details, good vinyl grip – a solid start for the upcoming airbrush stage."

Got suggestions for other decals, logos, or phrases? I’d love to hear your ideas below!

 

[kmp.cooling]

Radiator Stencil & Paint Test ​

Today I started the first stencil painting test on one of the radiators.
The goal of this phase is to evaluate:

• stencil hold during application and painting
• edge sharpness after removal
• readability of small graphics
• behavior of the paint on a clean, untreated metal surface

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Materials and tools used:​

• Metallic silver acrylic paint
• Custom-cut adhesive vinyl stencils
• Airbrush with a 0.3 mm nozzle (low pressure)
• Masking tape for isolated protection

The radiator was cleaned thoroughly, but no primer or sanding was applied.

---

​

Application method:​

After placing the stencil and masking the surroundings, I sprayed a few light, crossed passes with the airbrush, letting it dry between layers.

Once the paint was dry to the touch, I carefully removed the stencil to evaluate:

• whether the edges remained sharp
• if the small text was still legible
• whether the vinyl held firmly or lifted during the process

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Precision and challenge:​

The details in this test are as small as 0.6 mm – extremely fine.
Getting clean results with such small elements is not easy, especially using non-professional tools and being still quite new to airbrushing.


But challenges like these don’t scare me – let’s see how it turns out!

 

[kmp.cooling]

Star Citizen PC Mod – Detail Painting Update: Italian Flag & More

Progress continues with the stencil and paintwork!
This time, I focused on applying some of the smallest details, like the Italian flag, scaled down to fit on the side of the main radiator.

Process:

• precise masking of the target areas;
• application of previously cut stencils;
• direct airbrush painting with colored inks;
• careful stencil removal after drying.

Important note: the size of the painted details – like the flag stripes – is on the millimeter scale. I'm not using professional tools, and this is actually my first time working with an airbrush.
That said, the result came out surprisingly clean:

• no bleeding or overspray;
• sharp separation between colors;
• stencils held tight during the process!

The RSI logo, the tricolor and the rest of the technical markings are integrating well with the Polaris-themed build.

Let me know what you think!
If you have ideas for additional markings, symbols or functional labels, I’d love to hear them.
I’m not afraid of challenges—every day’s a new learning experience

 

[Kwadratowicz]

From photos it looks like it was factory made , the texture is really nice in all colors .

 

[kmp.cooling]

From photos it looks like it was factory made , the texture is really nice in all colors .

Thank you!

 

[kmp.cooling]

Hey everyone!

Sorry for the silence these past few days – I had a small surgery (nothing serious!), but recovery slowed me down a bit.
Still, I’ve kept working on the build when possible, just at a slower pace.

Specifically, I tested the first airbrush paint on one of the radiators, as shown in my previous post, using vinyl paper cut with the Silhouette Cameo as stencil.
As expected, that material isn’t meant for this purpose, and some of the fine details were torn away during peeling, which compromised part of the result.

That said, the test was very useful to understand:

• how the stencil behaves on slightly curved surfaces
• how well the edges hold up during spraying
• how vinyl adheres to untreated surfaces

I’ve therefore decided to completely remake the graphics, improving proportions, detailing, and composition structure.

I also purchased the proper stencil masking paper, far more resistant to tearing, with better grip and control – much more suitable for this kind of work.

The images show:

• the final digital layout of the updated graphics
• the precise cut using the new paper
• the application on the radiator, ready for a new paint session

I’ll share the final result as soon as I can.
In the meantime, if you have suggestions on materials or techniques for handling ultra-fine details (some parts are less than 1 mm thick!), I’m all ears.

Thanks to everyone supporting this Star Citizen-themed mod!

 

[kmp.cooling]

Here’s an important update on the mod.
After some testing and fine-tuning, I’ve completed the application of the updated stencils on all radiators.

Stencils
These were completely redesigned in terms of proportions, detail, and scale, to perfectly fit the radiator’s surface.
They were cut from vinyl using a Silhouette Cameo and carefully applied to ensure perfect alignment and adhesion – even across curved areas.

Final Paint Job
To achieve a finish aligned with the Star Citizen aesthetic, I created a custom mix of metallic paints in various tones and iridescent pigments – with no black base layer whatsoever.
The result? Depending on how the light hits the surface, it reflects iridescent highlights reminiscent of spaceship modules in space – with dynamic shifts resembling ceramic coatings and thermal tiles.

Technical Details
Some of the lines are as thin as 0.6 mm – quite the challenge, especially without professional tools and as a first-time airbrush user.
Once the paint had dried to the touch, I carefully removed the stencils to assess:

• edge sharpness
• masking precision
• paint adhesion even on ultra-fine details

The photos clearly showcase the final result:
the graphics are clean, sharp, and seamlessly integrated on the surface.
Ambient light brings everything to life, revealing new tones and reflections from every angle.

 

[mgrobins]

Hello .
I'm new to TPU - lost my old login from years ago and have made a new account. This is my innaugral post

I'm a fan, and strong supporter of Star Citizen and I think the game and entire concept art philosophy lends itself to creation of a PC like you are doing.

For over 25 years now I have done dedicated scratch designs and modifications of commercial off the shelf computing gear, and I still consider it a wonderful hobby. I mention this because it was the segway into airbrush artistry for me as well. I am now a skilled airbrush artist and produce all sorts of artwork or gear with customised aesthetic.

I like that you have the vinyl plotter - it's a wonderful way to control your painting as a novice . Multilayered stencils and an airbrush ... a doorway to stunning graphics .

I'm Australian based and often looking for new things to do (I'm a medically retired Veteran). If you want any help on the painting or whatnot you are very welcome to reach out to me.

I hope your home reno is proceeding smoothly too. It's a lot to take on and still have some smaller personal hobbies!

 

[kmp.cooling]

Hello .
I'm new to TPU - lost my old login from years ago and have made a new account. This is my innaugral post

I'm a fan, and strong supporter of Star Citizen and I think the game and entire concept art philosophy lends itself to creation of a PC like you are doing.

For over 25 years now I have done dedicated scratch designs and modifications of commercial off the shelf computing gear, and I still consider it a wonderful hobby. I mention this because it was the segway into airbrush artistry for me as well. I am now a skilled airbrush artist and produce all sorts of artwork or gear with customised aesthetic.

I like that you have the vinyl plotter - it's a wonderful way to control your painting as a novice . Multilayered stencils and an airbrush ... a doorway to stunning graphics .

I'm Australian based and often looking for new things to do (I'm a medically retired Veteran). If you want any help on the painting or whatnot you are very welcome to reach out to me.

I hope your home reno is proceeding smoothly too. It's a lot to take on and still have some smaller personal hobbies!

Hi!
It's a real pleasure to receive your first message on the forum—thank you for posting it under my project!

We definitely share a lot: for me too, Star Citizen represents a rich visual universe that inspires creative projects like this one. The aesthetic philosophy behind ships, UI elements, and technological details is a perfect match for a PC mod.

I'm still at the beginning of my airbrushing journey, but using a vinyl plotter is helping a lot to manage layers and keep edges sharp. The goal is exactly that: working with multilayered stencils to achieve a complex, almost "industrial" finish with iridescent highlights, just like the ship modules in space.

It’s great to hear you have such a deep background in modding and airbrush art—and I truly appreciate your offer to help. I might reach out for some tips later on!

And yes, the home renovation is in full swing... patience is definitely needed
A big hello to Australia, and again thanks for the support!

 

[kmp.cooling]

Hello Commanders!​

Here’s another project update I’ve been working on lately:
the custom aesthetic design of the SATA SSDs, which will act as secondary storage in the build. Of course, they’ll be paired with high-speed NVMe SSDs for the OS and main applications.

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Design & Concept​

Since these drives will be clearly visible in the front section of the mod, I wanted to give them a look inspired by the Star Citizen universe.
So I designed custom graphics in AutoCAD, which will be:

• cut using a vinyl plotter
• turned into multilayered stencils
• and finally airbrushed in layers to bring the design to life.

---

Inspiration​

The concept is directly inspired by RSI (Roberts Space Industries), mixed with:

• Military HUD styling
• Engineering interfaces
• Command modules or security badges

The hexagonal layout, circuit-like details and central icon reflect the aesthetics of ship modules and identification systems.

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Technical Details​

The central logo will be painted using copper/gold gradients, with iridescent and metallic pigments to simulate the shine of spaceship metals.

The second layout includes the RSI lettering and a tricolor accent, paying tribute to the Made in Italy soul of this build.

Main color palette:

• Dark grey + light grey
• Tech-style blue accents
• Metallic layers & iridescent reflections

---

Here’s a preview of the current graphics being developed in AutoCAD:

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These visuals will soon be applied to the SSD shells using precision stencils and airbrush, staying aesthetically consistent with the rest of the mod.


Let me know what you think!
Do you have any ideas for symbols, modules or extra visual layers I could integrate?

 

[kmp.cooling]

Update – Custom SATA SSDs (Phase 2)​

Hi everyone,
here’s a quick update on the aesthetic customization process of the SATA SSDs, which will be installed in a visible section of the build and are therefore being refined visually as well.

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1. Removal of factory labels​

The SSDs were disassembled to safely remove the original manufacturer labels.
Each label was gently heated and peeled off to avoid leaving residue and to preserve the integrity of the external shell.

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2. Plotter-cut stencils​

I’ve completed the plotter cutting of the stencils, based on the graphics developed in CAD.
These will be used for precise masking and for building up the paint layers during the airbrushing phase.

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3. First stencil application & paint – Layer 1​

The first stencil has been applied and the initial paint layer has been sprayed using a metallic base enriched with interference pigments.
Depending on how the light hits the surface, subtle iridescent reflections begin to appear – a look reminiscent of engineered surfaces or modular ship panels in the Star Citizen universe.

---

I’ll soon share an update with the next paint layers and the final result.
Feedback and ideas are always welcome.

 

[mgrobins]

You are doing astounding art here (I don't want to associate the word work ).

We need to talk about your paint viscosity and air pressure though....

What I am seeing on your spraywork is suggestive of poor atomisation or lack of pigment emulsification.
Different colours are actually different to spray because of the pigment and white is the worst...always.

The general approach I would suggest testing on another hard surface (specifically hard surface not cardboard or absorbable) is the following:

Viscosity / air pressure / distance are what you use to control spray quality...

a thin low pressure up close for super fine lines if pushed too hard with too thin or too high pressure will fish-eye (insufficient pigment), or blow around (air pressure).

a thick paint with insufficient pressure will not atomise correctly and will look spotty.

Spray too far away and your paint will dry before impact and look powdery.

Can you see the combination of these factors in play? It's infinitely variable *within the capacity of the paint and your airbrush*.

Some basic guidelines I suggest for comparing to your current results:

1. Paint well shaken and mixed with reducer to appropriate consistency. Even paint able to be sprayed out of the bottle can be improved with reducer to get pigment to emulsify properly (so leave it for about 15 min after mixing) and often will flow MUCH better at reasonable air pressure.

2. The distance you paint is going to be controlled by nozzle size because the paint is in a circle not a fan, and naturally a smaller area than a spraygun style paint tool. A fine nozzle needs to be closer or slower moving.

3. Adjust air pressure so you are getting finely atomised paint that flows cleanly and hits the target wet.
A guide to air pressure is often available with the paint in online manufacturer guides.

4. Trigger control, angle and distance are the art of airbrushing. For general stencil work wanting even coverage spray past the area in overlapping strokes - this avoids hot spots from pausing.
Learn to be able to turn off hte paint with the trigger while keeping air flowing.

An exercise for this is 2 vertical lines about 10 cm apart. Starting before one line you want to spray accurate straight lines to make a ladder. Keep the air on and start/stop the paint at the veritcal lines - no overlap and no short stops. It's pretty hard to do initially but helps you develop trigger "feel".

Createx have some amazing tutorials online. If you can search for their airbrush tutorials not so much the spraygun ones you will get a TONNE of info that has helped so many people.

Also Drew Blair... he is one of the foremost airbrush artists in the world and publishes a lot. He is more a photographic artist but the skills are all the same.

 

[mgrobins]

some examples for you - circles are just using stencil and going around a specific pattern with 3 colours by moving the stencil to form spheres . See how fine the paint is and the transitions are analogue - not digital bands.

Below are "Candies" which are transluscent inks. The more layers the darker the colour until its black. They don't have a pigment like opaques and can be perfect for using over other colours and metallics particularly. With gloss on top they really pop. Dont mind the waves etc - thats ground metal which is holographic art and this was just a junk test piece I did that I decided to hold onto.

With the below there is no pigmentation or fish eye - I had to have nicely thinned white paint but keep my air control and distance just right. See how the transitions have no granularity? This is what I want you to be able to achieve yourself. I'm aware you may want the effect you have to appear like worn starship hull... wear isn't always about shiny edges and scratches it can be the thinning and "deterioration" of a surface.

Here I am deliberately spotting paint to make it look used. The "diamond" stamping and lighting is not spotty though because it's meant to be a physical illusion. This is my current steampunk PC. I used 2 stencils to do the diamond - one grey, the other the reflected white part. Some of yours could incorporate this to make some smashing designs with your creative mind I reckon. Dimension is very achievable with an airbrush.

TIP DRY - the enemy of airbrushers and with water based paints its way worse than thinners base wheer it never happened. Its where paint dries on the tip due to the airflow. It degrades performance.
See the bottom tape area - that's me getting my mixes right and spraying after fixing tip dry (my paint was off I found out later and this piece was a bastard because the paint refused to mix properly).
If you use the tip cover it can be fiddly but work out a way with wet sponge or something that you can use to remove the tip dry routinely.
I often have it off and I use my finger and thumbnail just to scrape the tip clean - look up some videos on this because it's a really importnat thing. You may also need a spare needle if you decide to play with your tip protector/crown off because people always end up bending a tip .

For info this piece is done by laying in base white over black background to form shapes, then I use black to deepen areas and create dimension. White to create highlights and so forth. I then used transluscent colours over the rendered artwork to colour it. Just a different approach to using colours from the start I guess. I find it easier to work this way.

Last pic... to show how the signs that an item are painted vs printed are worth having. It states that it's your intentional art not just some off the shelf part. These are for shooting ear protectors for my sister. They are nicely blended but if you get real close it's obvious it's painted not just some factory part. That is something I think is priceless to keep in your work. It's your statement and a one of a kind.

I'm keenly following and I hope this hasn't been presumptuous... I want to insipire a little and show some of the things I was trying to describe.

 

[kmp.cooling]

You are doing astounding art here (I don't want to associate the word work ).

We need to talk about your paint viscosity and air pressure though....

What I am seeing on your spraywork is suggestive of poor atomisation or lack of pigment emulsification.
Different colours are actually different to spray because of the pigment and white is the worst...always.

The general approach I would suggest testing on another hard surface (specifically hard surface not cardboard or absorbable) is the following:

Viscosity / air pressure / distance are what you use to control spray quality...

a thin low pressure up close for super fine lines if pushed too hard with too thin or too high pressure will fish-eye (insufficient pigment), or blow around (air pressure).

a thick paint with insufficient pressure will not atomise correctly and will look spotty.

Spray too far away and your paint will dry before impact and look powdery.

Can you see the combination of these factors in play? It's infinitely variable *within the capacity of the paint and your airbrush*.

Some basic guidelines I suggest for comparing to your current results:

1. Paint well shaken and mixed with reducer to appropriate consistency. Even paint able to be sprayed out of the bottle can be improved with reducer to get pigment to emulsify properly (so leave it for about 15 min after mixing) and often will flow MUCH better at reasonable air pressure.

2. The distance you paint is going to be controlled by nozzle size because the paint is in a circle not a fan, and naturally a smaller area than a spraygun style paint tool. A fine nozzle needs to be closer or slower moving.

3. Adjust air pressure so you are getting finely atomised paint that flows cleanly and hits the target wet.
A guide to air pressure is often available with the paint in online manufacturer guides.

4. Trigger control, angle and distance are the art of airbrushing. For general stencil work wanting even coverage spray past the area in overlapping strokes - this avoids hot spots from pausing.
Learn to be able to turn off hte paint with the trigger while keeping air flowing.

An exercise for this is 2 vertical lines about 10 cm apart. Starting before one line you want to spray accurate straight lines to make a ladder. Keep the air on and start/stop the paint at the veritcal lines - no overlap and no short stops. It's pretty hard to do initially but helps you develop trigger "feel".

Createx have some amazing tutorials online. If you can search for their airbrush tutorials not so much the spraygun ones you will get a TONNE of info that has helped so many people.

Also Drew Blair... he is one of the foremost airbrush artists in the world and publishes a lot. He is more a photographic artist but the skills are all the same.

Hi!
Thank you so much for the time and care you put into this reply — it’s immediately clear you speak from direct experience and deep passion.

I have to admit that some of the issues you described actually showed up during my first paint passes, but I wasn’t sure whether it was a matter of pressure, distance, or dilution... Now it all makes a lot more sense. Your explanation about viscosity and pigment emulsification was really enlightening, and the note about how different colors behave — especially white — completely resonates with what I’ve seen!

I truly appreciate the practical advice too: I’ll definitely try the parallel line exercise, and start working more on trigger control — that’s where I feel I have the most room for improvement.

I’m also saving your reference to Drew Blair and the Createx tutorials — I’m sure I’ll learn a lot from those.

Thanks again for your support, it really means a lot
One of the best parts of sharing projects like this is getting feedback from people like you, who offer concrete and helpful suggestions with a constructive spirit.

 

[kmp.cooling]

New preview from the Star Citizen-themed mod – Custom GPU Backplate!​

Hi everyone!
I’d like to share a new preview from my ongoing Star Citizen-themed PC mod.
This time, it’s all about the custom GPU backplate, entirely designed from scratch in AutoCAD, and now ready for paint using handmade stencil masks.

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Key elements of the design:​

SQUADRON 42
At the top left, the logo of Squadron 42, the iconic single-player campaign from Star Citizen. It’s a tribute to the narrative and military core of the universe, as well as to my personal love for immersive, technical aesthetics.

RSI POLARIS SILHOUETTE
On the right side, the full silhouette of the RSI Polaris, the main inspiration for this mod. The shape was manually vectorized to preserve its proportions, with a stealth-like, functional design approach.

RTX 4090
The powerhouse of the build: the GeForce RTX 4090. The badge-style graphic features futuristic tech lines, fully aligned with the RSI style and Star Citizen’s industrial design language.

MADE IN ITALY
A personal touch I couldn’t leave out: the Italian tricolor at the bottom highlights the origin of the project, the craftsmanship behind it, and the passion for detail that defines Italian creativity.

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Technique and process:​

All elements were created in AutoCAD 2D, then exported as stencil cut files to apply layers of paint via airbrush on pre-treated surfaces. This technique ensures sharp edges, long-lasting adhesion, and seamless integration with the overall theme of the mod.

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I’ll soon share updates on the painting process and final assembly!

As always, any feedback or suggestions are very welcome.
Thanks a lot for following and supporting this journey!

 

[mgrobins]

You are most welcome. I stand on the shoulders of the people who have helped me and merely share the wisdom they have imparted and my own individual learnings. Airbrushing is both technical and artistic. It takes a lot to master and I'm certainly looking forward to getting back into it once I establish a new booth in my new home.