• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

Sticky power button.

Toothless

Toothless

Tech, Games, and TPU!
Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
9,865 (2.38/day)
Location
Washington, USA
System Specs
System Name Veral
Processor 7800x3D
Motherboard x670e Asus Crosshair Hero
Cooling Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO
Memory 2x32 Neo Forza
Video Card(s) Powercolor 7900XTX Red Devil
Storage Crucial P5 Plus 1TB, Samsung 980 1TB, Teamgroup MP34 4TB
Display(s) Acer Nitro XZ342CK Pbmiiphx, 2x AOC 2425W, AOC I1601FWUX
Case Fractal Design Meshify Lite 2
Audio Device(s) Blue Yeti + SteelSeries Arctis 5 / Samsung HW-T550
Power Supply Corsair HX850
Mouse Corsair Harpoon
Keyboard Corsair K55
VR HMD HP Reverb G2
Software Windows 11 Professional
Benchmark Scores PEBCAK
Okay so I bought this case a while ago and besides the horrid cable management and sticky power button, I love it. I know the cables isn't a fixable thing so let's get to the button.

I can normally boot, but about 5 seconds later the rig just shuts off. I can turn it on and jiggle the button out and it'll work just fine.

I know it's not the PSU because the last case I had doesn't do this and I've pushed this rig to the top and it's still ran.

wat do guys
 
test by bypassing button (jumper on m/b)
buy new case button ( or clean and lube old button with lube such as wd 40 )
connect new button (hopefully problem solved)
 
So I must lube the button. I supposed I need protection too?
 
If you're sure it is the button, you may want to contact the case manufacturer and ask if you can get a replacement switch. I had a case with a flaky power button and NZXT sent me a replacement free of charge. It has worked excellent since.
 
1.) Stop faping on/into your computer.
2.) Use isopropyl alcohol to clean it out. Then use some lube. Not sure about wd40 and how that will react with plastic and wire coatings.
 
I may or may not have to call up Raidmax then.
 
You posted while I was....
I was going to say it seems this case is new to you and you should go to the manufacturer and see if they can send a new I/O panel (at least that is what I got in the past as they are built as a unit most times).
 
I just hope they'll be able to send it since the case isn't in production anymore.
 
Toothless said:
I just hope they'll be able to send it since the case isn't in production anymore.
Click to expand...

That could very well be an issue. I would contact them first, as it is a free option. Who knows, maybe the I/O has moved into another design after that chassis.
 
LOOOOOL.

So I called them up and they want me to RMA it.
 
Toothless said:
LOOOOOL.

So I called them up and they want me to RMA it.
Click to expand...

WOW, that cannot be cheap. Did you ask them to cover the transit costs for that deal?
 
sneekypeet said:
WOW, that cannot be cheap. Did you ask them to cover the transit costs for that deal?
Click to expand...
I'm not even going to bother to RMA since I wouldn't have anywhere safe to put my hardware and it's painful enough to route the cables in the back panel. I'll just have to make my own modifications.

I did ask if they could just send a button and nope, they can't.

I give props to them because the call wasn't even 5 minutes long. Maybe 2 seconds on hold.
 
Yeah..... and I am saying RMA the switch only. They want the entire case?
 
Is it the actual switch that is catching ?, if so RMA time. If it's the plastic part that fits on the switch use some sand paper.
 
I would pop off the front panel to take a closer look at what's actually getting stuck. It could end up being something minor that you can pop back into place! Or dab a little silicon grease on. Power switches DO vary significantly between cases so I wouldn't buy anything until you look at it.

I was THIS close to RMAing a new ASUS R9 290 video card for one of the fans making a repetitive clicking noise. After I took a closer look at it, I found a little bit of fabric sleeving from one of the fan wires sticking up too high and the fan blade was hitting it. Snipped off the excess and it was quiet again.
 
I do not recommend plain old WD-40. You do not want any oils or grease to get onto the electrical contacts. In some situations, it is not the button, but the housing area where the button mounts that is the problem where something is interfering with the free movement of the button.

If you can remove the button from the inside of the front panel, do that then see if it operates correctly. If it does, you know it is here it mounts. If still messed up, you know it is the switch itself.

If me, and if everything is out of warranty, I would just swap wires between the power and reset button and just use the reset button from now on.
 
Have you checked to see if it's just an alignment thing? Sometimes case power buttons just aren't mounted in the center of the case hole and they rub on the case itself.

That said, if it's the switch itself and the case is still under warranty, I would do as mentioned and contact the manufacturer to try and get a replacement switch.

It's best to do this within a few weeks of purchase, but anytime under warranty should suffice as well. Antec would respond in a heartbeat, don't know about Raidmax.
 
If all fails you can always take off the button and try to bake it in the oven.

Take it off and try to clean it with alcohol.
 
I'll try some theories when I get home.
 
I had (still have actually) a Thermaltake Xaser case that had a power button that would get stuck. The plastic housing would get wedged sideways and hold the button down. I eventually just learned where/how to press it so it wouldn't get stuck.

If you don't mind chopping it up, you could try replacing it with something like a vandal resistant switch or a military switch. Any kind of momentary switch would do. Drill the appropriate sized hole and screw it in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top