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Tempest under water

Chicken Patty

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Zipties didn't work that great for me for some reason. Anyways good luck.
 
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Just make sure you get some sorta clamps. :toast:
Well I personally hate clamps they make the set up look cheap. I prefer zip ties.

Zipties didn't work that great for me for some reason. Anyways good luck.
Some people have a tough time with them, but patience and a pair of pliers seem to lead to the best results in my experience.

I've got normal screw on clamps, but didn't like working with them, so now they're on with zip-ties. I'll be using plastic ones next.
I have to say zip ties are a great choice, as they are cheap and abundant, and the look a lot cleaner. I also have been known to use cheap barbs, and use a can of epoxy enamel spray paint, and paint them black, and then rough them up with some 150 grit sand paper, then put some locktite (I prefer the blue if clear tubing is being used), and it will hold and be leak free till the second coming of Christ, the tubing will crack and get stiff, before you will have a leak at the fittings. The down side of this is that well you've trashed your fittings lol. But the paint trick (minus the sanding part) works great, especially if you have a black CPU block. It adds a slight amount of thickness, but not soo much that it makes installation difficult, plus it looks slick. You may have to sand your fittings, though if you bought expensive chrome fittings that's kinda a hard pill to swallow.

But you should post some picks so we can maybe give some better advice.
 

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I ran 7/16th without any sort of clamp/ties without them leaking. But since he's getting 1/2" tubing figured I'd give him some advise.
 
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I ran 7/16th without any sort of clamp/ties without them leaking. But since he's getting 1/2" tubing figured I'd give him some advise.
Sadly clamps, zip ties, and glue, are really the only way to make a 1/2 & 1/2 set up leak proof. I suppose he could use compression fittings, but I have never had any luck with them every time I have tried to use them, they have leaked.:banghead:
 

Chicken Patty

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Sadly clamps, zip ties, and glue, are really the only way to make a 1/2 & 1/2 set up leak proof. I suppose he could use compression fittings, but I have never had any luck with them every time I have tried to use them, they have leaked.:banghead:
My first build had CPU/NB/SB/ and video card water cooled all with Koolance Compression fittings, worked great for me.
 
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Well I personally hate clamps they make the set up look cheap. I prefer zip ties.

Some people have a tough time with them, but patience and a pair of pliers seem to lead to the best results in my experience.

I have to say zip ties are a great choice, as they are cheap and abundant, and the look a lot cleaner.
Zip ties have worked great for me with this setup, not a single leak after them. I used pliers to tighten them.

I'm not sure about going to work on the fittings, so I'll try with the plastic clamps and if they don't work, then zip ties it is.

But you should post some picks so we can maybe give some better advice.
The new tubing is still on its way. What would you like to see? Pics of the current setup are on page 3 of this thread.
I've already got plans on how to shorten the tubing. I'm going to turn the top rad 180 degrees and change the loop to:

res-pump-cpu-rad-gpu-rad-res.

That should make it a lot cleaner.
 
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My first build had CPU/NB/SB/ and video card water cooled all with Koolance Compression fittings, worked great for me.
Your like the 5th person to say the same thing, :banghead: it must have been operator error or something lol, but no matter what I did it leaked.

Zip ties have worked great for me with this setup, not a single leak after them. I used pliers to tighten them.

I'm not sure about going to work on the fittings, so I'll try with the plastic clamps and if they don't work, then zip ties it is.



The new tubing is still on its way. What would you like to see? Pics of the current setup are on page 3 of this thread.
I've already got plans on how to shorten the tubing. I'm going to turn the top rad 180 degrees and change the loop to:

res-pump-cpu-rad-gpu-rad-res.

That should make it a lot cleaner.
Sorry I thought the tubing was there lol (been pulling 18 hour days every day since Saturday, I'm past the point of fried :wtf:), but if your cool with painting the fittings I highly recommend it, it makes for look that's so much cleaner and better, than chrome/black IMO.
 

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Your like the 5th person to say the same thing, :banghead: it must have been operator error or something lol, but no matter what I did it leaked.



Sorry I thought the tubing was there lol (been pulling 18 hour days every day since Saturday, I'm past the point of fried :wtf:), but if your cool with painting the fittings I highly recommend it, it makes for look that's so much cleaner and better, than chrome/black IMO.
Weird man. Operator error :laugh: I liked the way you put that. :p
 
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Weird man. Operator error :laugh: I liked the way you put that. :p
Heh, it's actually a term that most IT departments use to describe problems that occur because of the end user, also it sounds better and more professional, that the user was being a dumbass and glued his phone line into the NIC card, because "it didn't fit right", also I can't exactly use the term "being a dumbass" in a evaluation/ recommendation report to HR, when someones job is on the line.

Ughhhhh ... sorry Inioch:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: I thread jacked you again.:shadedshu

I'm going to have to start PM'ing lol.
 

Chicken Patty

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Heh, it's actually a term that most IT departments use to describe problems that occur because of the end user, also it sounds better and more professional, that the user was being a dumbass and glued his phone line into the NIC card, because "it didn't fit right", also I can't exactly use the term "being a dumbass" in a evaluation/ recommendation report to HR, when someones job is on the line.

Ughhhhh ... sorry Inioch:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: I thread jacked you again.:shadedshu

I'm going to have to start PM'ing lol.
PM's are fine, I do about 50-60 a day. No issue! :D
 
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This entire discussion is why I love screw-in fittings :D No clamps required whatsoever.
 
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New tubing is here along with a second EK 4870 block and a backplate for the cpu block.
Now all I need is time to install them all.

That said, what is the best way to drain a loop? How would you do it if you were me?

The new tubing is quite a lot thinner than the old one:

 
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On your loop I'd pop the hose off the bottom of the GFX card. Make sure to place something under it of course.
 
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It's summer time, free time aplenty and I'm planning on redoing my loop entirely. Going to finally put the other vga block in, install the backplate and change the tubing to the one shown in the pic above. That is, if I don't get a job for the summer in which case I'll go for an i5-750 setup.

A couple of questions:

Do 45 deg and 90 deg fittings reduce the flow and if yes then how much?
Do you think that my Dtek DB-1 pump is enough for a cpu+2xgpu+2240 rad loop?

I'll post a pic of what I thought about the tubing later today.

I'm really digging the CM 690 II and will probably change to that at some point. This guy gave me a couple of ideas to implement on the Tempest too.


Source
 

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Like what he did with the HDD cage :) Looks good.
 
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I would have switched the fans on the bottom rad from push to pull, unless he's more concerned about dust than I am.
 
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This is what I was thinking about now.



Should clean the loop a lot compared to this.



Like what he did with the HDD cage :) Looks good.
I really like that part about the 690 II. With the tempest I had to remove both cages to fit the other rad.
I was also looking at his other build photos and I think I could fit my pump on the back like he did. Mine is only 7mm wider and he has the whole support bracket there.
Like I said, I think that's going to be my next case. Only problem is fitting a larger psu and a rad on the bottom.
In the pictures he has a 16cm long psu with 29.5cm rad. That leaves 1.5cm for the cables.
A Swiftech like mine is 28.5cm so it would leave 2.5cm.

But, if I got a HX750 or HX850, they are 18cm long, so only 0.5cm for wires which is not enough.

I would have switched the fans on the bottom rad from push to pull, unless he's more concerned about dust than I am.
I would do the same, have them pulling and the same on top, pulling out of the case.
 
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Chicken Patty

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This is what I was thinking about now.

http://img.techpowerup.org/100611/Loop_v2.jpg

Should clean the loop a lot compared to this.

http://img.techpowerup.org/100109/IMG_0017_small.jpg



I really like that part about the 690 II. With the tempest I had to remove both cages to fit the other rad.
I was also looking at his other build photos and I think I could fit my pump on the back like he did. Mine is only 7mm wider and he has the whole support bracket there.
Like I said, I think that's going to be my next case. Only problem is fitting a larger psu and a rad on the bottom.
In the pictures he has a 16cm long psu with 29.5cm rad. That leaves 1.5cm for the cables.
A Swiftech like mine is 28.5cm so it would leave 2.5cm.

But, if I got a HX750 or HX850, they are 18cm long, so only 0.5cm for wires which is not enough.



I would do the same, have them pulling and the same on top, pulling out of the case.
I'm pretty sure you can find a good PSu that is shorter. My BFG 1000W is pretty short. You can look into that.
 
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This list is pretty much what I'm limited to. They have the best selection/price. I was looking at the XFX unit, which is A Seasonic MD platform, It has scored very well in reviews, even on JonnyGuru.
 
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Well, this thread is about to end very soon. I sold my Tempest and got me a CM 690 II Advanced. Just thought I'd try something new.

Now my question is, what to use to rinse the whole loop? It seems that the silver I had wasn't enough. There are some small spots of algae in the reservoir (acryl). Any ideas why it didn't work? I had my loop together for 6 months. How to clean it and the rest of the stuff?