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Tempest under water

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#76
Here are some temp pics. I haven't gone for a higher oc yet, as it seems my board didn't survive the little incident before as well as I hoped. Seems to have some problems with the memory controller.

Anyway, here's a before pic:



And here's an after pic:




Cpu temps have dropped about 10c, but the best part is the gpu.
On air, it peaked just below 90c, now on water, full load maxes at 44c.

I'm quite happy with the temps right now, but if I get a quad later, would it make sense to add another Swiftech MCR220 Stack to the loop?

Like this:

 

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#77
Not sure on the peformance of the stackers, but it will def. improve your temps further. Good job so far, are you happy with the results? I would be. :)
 
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#78
Let your rad fans blow up instead of down, because:
- Hot air rises, blowing up removes it from the case
- Blowing cold air through a rad heats the air up, so you're blowing slightly warmed air into your case

Next, I'd say put your VGA before the rad, so you can get rid of the VGA's heat as well. Otherwise you're warming up your loop a lot quicker. I'd do it like:

Pump, CPU, RAD, VGA, RAD, Res and back to pump

EDIT: pump, RAD, CPU, RAD, VGA, Res and back to pump wouldn't be bad, I just noticed you're putting the water through a rad before hitting any heated component :D
Blowing warm air into the case really isn't a big deal when all major componets are water cooled. If it's really a concern a beefy exhaust fan can remedy the situation, it's really nothing 70+ CFM of exhaust can't fix.
 
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#79
Not sure on the peformance of the stackers, but it will def. improve your temps further. Good job so far, are you happy with the results? I would be. :)
I'm quite happy. I'll have to see about getting the other gpu under water too, then I can really see if my setup is enough. If not, then I'll just get another stacker and couple of fans and that should do it.
 

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#80
That sounds like a plan, another stacker should be enough if you need it.
 
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#81
th stackers are awful, and they wont fit into that case if you mount them on the top, because they will block access to the cpu socket... basically there will be no room for the block and the tubing because they will hang so low.

The stackers need really loud fans to perform properly... i had a triple stacker setup and it was a total waste of money. A single 140MMx2 rad will kick the crap out of those and do it quietly.


as far as blowing "warm" air into the case... if your rad is so hot that the air you air blowing into the case is "warm" then your setup is overloaded... the air is maybe 1-3C warmer than ambient, so its a non issue. HOWEVER, using warm air to "cool" the rad is so much less effective than using cold that you can expect a nice ~5C rise in temps between fresh air and exhaust air.

as far as "warm air rising"... HOT air rises... like burning hot. Air that is 1-4C warmer than the air around it sort of slowly floats upwards if there is 0 airflow in the area in question... as soon as a slight breeze is introduced, it doesnt matter anymore as it all mixes.

You have a very nicely done setup tbh... I would replace the top rad with a 140x2 instead of going with the stacker tho... I was so bummed at the performance.
 
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#82
Thanks Phanbuey, it's good to have someone speak from experience.
 
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#83

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#84
So it's basically a in efficient design right?
 
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#85
I have the stacker on the front and there's room for another one there. I read this on review and another one by him here. Basically what he's saying is the same, you need a lot of air if you're going to stack them. They also seem to need shrouds to get the best out of them. But on their own, they rock for price/performance.

I have both rads being blown cold air, and exhaust is in the rear. And yeah, the air coming through them is just warm, like 1-3c warmer. I thought about getting a 2x140 on the top, but as long as the 240 is doing okay there, I wont probably change it.
 

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#86
Yeah I think they work good when solo. When stacked you'll need some shrouding and good fans. Some people would get annoyed by the extra noise from the added airflow. I would just stay away from stacking them. My .02 cents.
 
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#87
Anyone else think the loop could be simplified drastically ? seems to have way to many pipes for how many things he's cooling.

Should only need 5.
 
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#88
Anyone else think the loop could be simplified drastically ? seems to have way to many pipes for how many things he's cooling.

Should only need 5.
There's only six, but they run quite long :eek:
 
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#90
yep... less tubing is always better... and looks better... its hard with thick tubing though... i always use 3/8" for that reason. Easier to manage and almost no difference in temps
 
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#91
I was planning on getting 7/16" tubing to replace this at some point when I have to take it apart. That should fit 1/2" barbs right?

One thing I also will get is a backplate for the cpu block. Stupid me, I didn't order it when I got the rest of the parts.
 
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#92
Tha back plate can make a big difference in temps.
 
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#93
Tha back plate can make a big difference in temps.
I just forgot it when ordering the parts. It's like 5€ :laugh:

Can't remember everything :eek:
 

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#94
I just forgot it when ordering the parts. It's like 5€ :laugh:

Can't remember everything :eek:
You have the HK block right? I've seen peeps get huge differences with the backplates.
 
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#95
You have the HK block right? I've seen peeps get huge differences with the backplates.
I for one can say this is 100% true, I bought a HK block off my friend, he managed to score some special limited edition, so I bought his for 25 dollars, cleaned it up and installed it and couldn't see what all the hype was about, it wasn't a bad preformer but wasn't what it was made out to be IMO, then I found out he had kept the back plate, so I ordered one, and installed it and the difference was nearly a 15% improvment. IMO it's not impossible to get great preformance without the back plate, it's just easier to do so with it, and it costs like $15 USD shipped, that's about a dollar per % in preformance increase! Worth every bit of the money.
 

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#96
I for one can say this is 100% true, I bought a HK block off my friend, he managed to score some special limited edition, so I bought his for 25 dollars, cleaned it up and installed it and couldn't see what all the hype was about, it wasn't a bad preformer but wasn't what it was made out to be IMO, then I found out he had kept the back plate, so I ordered one, and installed it and the difference was nearly a 15% improvment. IMO it's not impossible to get great preformance without the back plate, it's just easier to do so with it, and it costs like $15 USD shipped, that's about a dollar per % in preformance increase! Worth every bit of the money.
Thank you for sharing! :toast: Indeed this backs up my point.
 
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#97

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#98
I'm going to order it today. Does 7/16" tubing work well with 1/2" barbs? It should be more flexible than my current 13mm ID/19mm OD one right?

Should I go with this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/12,7mm clear (1/2"ID)

or this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/11,1mm clear (7/16'ID)

Any difference in flow, bending etc?
Good choice :toast:

As far as tubing 7/16th is a very very snug fit. However, over time it was so hard to get off I just stuck with 1/2" turbing. THe thicker the wall the harder it is to bend, but the less chance it has of kinking. I say flow is about the same.
 
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#99
I'm going to order it today. Does 7/16" tubing work well with 1/2" barbs? It should be more flexible than my current 13mm ID/19mm OD one right?

Should I go with this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/12,7mm clear (1/2"ID)

or this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/11,1mm clear (7/16'ID)

Any difference in flow, bending etc?
For reasons I state below I state go with Masterkleer tubing 15,9/11,1mm clear (7/16'ID) with 1/2" barbs.

Good choice :toast:

As far as tubing 7/16th is a very very snug fit. However, over time it was so hard to get off I just stuck with 1/2" turbing. THe thicker the wall the harder it is to bend, but the less chance it has of kinking. I say flow is about the same.
I would have to agree. Getting it off can be difficult, but it's nothing a blow dryer / heat gun or a cup of boiling water can't fix. It also helps to cool the barbs a little too. Throw them in the freezer or the fridge for about an hour, grab your tubing and dip it in some boiling water for about 10-20 seconds. Then push the barb into the softened tubing, it will be easier because the metal will have shrunk slightly and the tubing will soften and expand a little. Make sure you wear some gloves of some kind! Mechanics or driving, or baseball gloves all work well, because they are usually vinyl or leather, and are cheap. Once you have the tuning on and have a snug fit, leave them out to cool for about 15-20 mins. If your in a real hurry a air compressor, or canned air, can be used to cool them. Once cooled you will have a rock solid tight fit. I can say using this method, I have had only 1 leak using 7/16" and 1/2" babrs tubing in 7 different builds, and any leaks can be fixed with a zip tie. This does not mean that you shouldn't do a 24-48 hour leak test, it is water, and it loves to fry hardware.

As for flow, I would also agree, that yeah it's about the same in flow, maybe a little more, but not having to worry about kinks, means worlds to me. And tubing is cheap, I never re-use tubing, as it can warp, harden and crack. If your adding new parts, do the extra work and replace your tubing if it's been in use for more than 6 months.
 
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if youre worried about kinks, then coils are really the only way...

my vote also goes to 7/16... but as CP said... its a B*TCH to get off. (sounds dirty no?)