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TPU PC Water coolers Club

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 24505
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Deleted member 24505

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Just looked and there does not seem to be one, so thought I would start one.

Pop in with your questions, tips or just rig picks. Got a question about which pump, block or layout, ask it here. This is the place to show off your lovely loops and discuss them.

Here is my loop, and I have to say i am so pleased at how quiet it is now, it is quieter idle than my mates air cooled rig, and even gaming is not that noisy and temp are still "probably" better than any air cooled rig, specially my GPU.

20220416_192433.jpg
 
cracking idea bud. great rigg you have there.
my VR gaming rigg 3900x, aorus ultra x570 ,2080, 32gb 3400 ram, assorted water cooling bits ek pump, custom res, alpha cool cpu block, ek rad. seasonic gx850.
IMG_1156.JPG

IMG_1157.JPG

my workshop/ obsyroom rig. 7700k 1080 maximus 9 mb 16gb hyperx @3200 ek cpu and gpu blocks seasonic gx 750.
IMG_1162.JPG

a wider view to get the jist.
IMG_1163.JPG
 
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Hi,
Yeah always loved hard tubings look, just loved the soft tubing ease of doing simple tasks like changing thermal paste/... more the octopus look also never bothered me I prefer it over expensive "might leak if the joint is stressed" rotary fittings

So far I have three rigs water looped only one doesn't have the gpu on water they do love water all in my system spec's
Two watercool mora 360mm rads as well for oc max fun they do drop ambient water temp closest to room temp they are about the only rad that has done that :cool:

Beware snake alert :laugh:
.
.
Dual mora 360 z490 hooked up back of rigs.jpg
x99 test bench entertainment center-1.jpg
Side open flash.jpg
x299 side no lighting.jpg
 
I have had disasters with hard tubing, rip evga 1080 ftw and asus z390-f, so will never use it again. It's a pain in the ass to set up, and makes maintenance a pita too. Nothing wrong with soft tubes, it can look very nice too, even Thrashzone's :p

There are some experienced water cooling guys here, so hopefully they will all join in,


Bought a AQ flow meter that was DOA, so bought another as sending the first back to Germany is not happening. I love the little AQ Vision thing, but it too cn be a pita when it keep failing and i have to stop and restart the service to get it working properly again. Unfortunately imo the support could be a bit better for AQ stuff. The vision is a handy little thing, it has a ir pickup and you can program it with any remote, so i use it for media and volume control.
Here is a pic when it has its spat.
vision error.jpg
 
Hi,
Yeah always loved hard tubings look, just loved the soft tubing ease of doing simple tasks like changing thermal paste/... more the octopus look also never bothered me I prefer it over expensive "might leak if the joint is stressed" rotary fittings

So far I have three rigs water looped only one doesn't have the gpu on water they do love water all in my system spec's
Two watercool mora 360mm rads as well for oc max fun they do drop ambient water temp closest to room temp they are about the only rad that has done that :cool:

Beware snake alert :laugh:
.
.
View attachment 243984View attachment 243983View attachment 243985View attachment 243986
More tubing damn it!! :D :laugh:

Love it!!
 
nice block bud, ive used quite a bit of BYKSKI kit on customers builds and thay are well made.
 
Oldie but goodie : )

resized.jpg
new.jpg

Edit: Second photo.

Had to edit with one from 12 years ago. i7 920 with HD 6950 Crossfire.

Wish I have photos of my very first setup of my socket 478 water cooler Pentium 4 HT
 
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A fine idea tigger! Here's the kinda same rig in two very different forms:

loop step 2 blacked out crop.jpg


core p3 loop.jpg


Although, this may be coming to an end very soon as I go back to air......
 
Hi,
I've never bothered with a flow meter just water temp pretty much tells the story
If you have activity in the reservoir is good but then again I use 2 d5's in :laugh:

Think my optimus cpu water blocks have the water jet vertical not horizontal like ek typically uses except on the ek magnitude it is vertical to so maybe rotate it if you get bored Tigger.

More tubing damn it!! :D :laugh:

Love it!!
Cheaper by the mile :laugh:
 
A Lian Li vertical GPU mount won't fit either as the bottom rad is too thick. Might order one and do some modding to make it fit.
 
Hi,
If you're really want the best water flow device here it is, I hate the retched website though :laugh:

 
Hi,
If you're really want the best water flow device here it is, I hate the retched website though :laugh:


Did consider an aquaero, but got nowhere to put it, that's why i went with the AQ Vision instead.
 
Did consider an aquaero, but got nowhere to put it, that's why i went with the AQ Vision instead.
Hi,
Yep way to complicated to but does a shitload more :laugh:
You have to be deducted for something like that
I'm happy with my little water temp sensors.
 

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Hi,
Yep way to complicated to but does a shitload more :laugh:
You have to be deducted for something like that
I'm happy with my little water temp sensors.

The vision has water temp input, flow input/emergency shut off. I use mine for remote control for media/volume too, and have inputs setup from the GPU and CPU. It's a handy little thing.
 
Block is fitted, working ok thank nerdulon (god of nerds)
View attachment 244098View attachment 244099View attachment 244100View attachment 244101
And finally, here is the mx4 spread on the old little block.
View attachment 244102


So that is the Bykski water block right? They do not include a backplate? lame. And their WB doesn't allow the stock blackplate either? double lame.
I stumbled onto Bykski because they have fittings that light up hard tubes and I thought that was the cats ass....until you realize you got another 10+ cables to manage and they are tiny and fragile as can be. Hard tube management was messy and the controller for those fitting lights went kaput on me so I went soft tube when I put in different components recently (I have links in signature) so I hope maintenance and troubleshooting will be easier when I can move a component around without having to drain the loop.

Otherwise I think Bykski is a bit under rated, flying under the mainstream radar. I got a bunch of Bykski fittings, the rotary fittings are well made, better than the EK ones I have even which feel loose and can have a tiny bit of sag from weight. Bykski's fittings are super solid feeling and rigid by comparison. But I didn't want their WB though because I kept reading they came with zero instructions, or if they did, they were in Chinese. What was your experience like here?

And why does it look like the CPU mount has a couple mm shaved off the corners ? I mean, I'm sure the answer is it didn't fit otherwise but I've never heard of a mount not fitting what it was designed for. Is it an adapter from one socket to another sort of thing? As I look closer, sorta looks like the VRM heatsink is cramping your style?
 
zero instructions
what do you want instructions for the block has cutouts to show which way it gos :) its not rocket science.
 
So that is the Bykski water block right? They do not include a backplate? lame. And their WB doesn't allow the stock blackplate either? double lame.
I stumbled onto Bykski because they have fittings that light up hard tubes and I thought that was the cats ass....until you realize you got another 10+ cables to manage and they are tiny and fragile as can be. Hard tube management was messy and the controller for those fitting lights went kaput on me so I went soft tube when I put in different components recently (I have links in signature) so I hope maintenance and troubleshooting will be easier when I can move a component around without having to drain the loop.

Otherwise I think Bykski is a bit under rated, flying under the mainstream radar. I got a bunch of Bykski fittings, the rotary fittings are well made, better than the EK ones I have even which feel loose and can have a tiny bit of sag from weight. Bykski's fittings are super solid feeling and rigid by comparison. But I didn't want their WB though because I kept reading they came with zero instructions, or if they did, they were in Chinese. What was your experience like here?

And why does it look like the CPU mount has a couple mm shaved off the corners ? I mean, I'm sure the answer is it didn't fit otherwise but I've never heard of a mount not fitting what it was designed for. Is it an adapter from one socket to another sort of thing? As I look closer, sorta looks like the VRM heatsink is cramping your style?

it kind of depends on the video card. I had a EVGA 1080 befor and the backplate fitted, but not with this Asus. on the EVGA the screws went in through the backplate holes, but this time its reverse so i could not fit it. Not wrecking the backplate to try and do it either. It's not byskis fault, the block is very good. Try getting a 1080 block from anywhere else now.

It was pretty easy to fit even with no instructions. fit the heat pads, paste the GPU, line holes up for screws.

So that is the Bykski water block right? They do not include a backplate? lame. And their WB doesn't allow the stock blackplate either? double lame.
I stumbled onto Bykski because they have fittings that light up hard tubes and I thought that was the cats ass....until you realize you got another 10+ cables to manage and they are tiny and fragile as can be. Hard tube management was messy and the controller for those fitting lights went kaput on me so I went soft tube when I put in different components recently (I have links in signature) so I hope maintenance and troubleshooting will be easier when I can move a component around without having to drain the loop.

Otherwise I think Bykski is a bit under rated, flying under the mainstream radar. I got a bunch of Bykski fittings, the rotary fittings are well made, better than the EK ones I have even which feel loose and can have a tiny bit of sag from weight. Bykski's fittings are super solid feeling and rigid by comparison. But I didn't want their WB though because I kept reading they came with zero instructions, or if they did, they were in Chinese. What was your experience like here?

And why does it look like the CPU mount has a couple mm shaved off the corners ? I mean, I'm sure the answer is it didn't fit otherwise but I've never heard of a mount not fitting what it was designed for. Is it an adapter from one socket to another sort of thing? As I look closer, sorta looks like the VRM heatsink is cramping your style?

The old little block i had to cut so it did not interere with the mid plate, that has nothing to do with the byski block at all.
 
what do you want instructions for the block has cutouts to show which way it gos :) its not rocket science.
I was referring to my first go at it 3 years ago and investing $600+ (card and block) into something I can damage beyond repair isn't smart, which also doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand. I get where you're coming from, and believe me I am the kind of guy who genuinely enjoys figuring stuff out themselves through just doing it, trial and error, etc.....but that's OK when I'm learning to solder on PCBs with a $40 Xbox controller.....not OK when I potentially turn a $600 graphics card setup into a "for parts" ebay listing lol

after my first go, I don't need instructions to make me feel safe anymore. I didn't have the confidence to ruin new and expensive stuff thinking my shit doesn't stink and knew better. one of those "hold my beer" memes come to mind, like I can do that, that ain't hard. then epic fail. I wasn't going to go that route. let a newb learn at their pace basically. and learn I did. but for thermal pads, it's beneficial to know which thickness goes where. when you're given 1 giant strip and have to cut it up, it would be easy to cut it in such a way that would leave you without enough for all components that need it. I like that EK diagrammed the cut and placement pattern to help there for example. unless they are all the same thickness, and precut to size, that would be intimidating to a newb. that .5mm difference for some could be easily missed for example

it kind of depends on the video card. I had a EVGA 1080 befor and the backplate fitted, but not with this Asus. on the EVGA the screws went in through the backplate holes, but this time its reverse so i could not fit it. Not wrecking the backplate to try and do it either. It's not byskis fault, the block is very good. Try getting a 1080 block from anywhere else now.

It was pretty easy to fit even with no instructions. fit the heat pads, paste the GPU, line holes up for screws.



The old little block i had to cut so it did not interere with the mid plate, that has nothing to do with the byski block at all.
the bykski block? I know it had nothing to do with that too lol. I was referring to the motherboard VRM heatsink....it looks like the CPU mounting plate/mechanism would be in the way if you didn't cut it back is what I meant. Idk what a mid plate is....so what is that?

and yea the 1080 is so old Bykski would be the only company silly enough to keep manufacturing them, or it's just "old new stock" since anyone who wanted a WB likely got one years ago. I notice Bykski makes blocks for cards most people wouldn't even consider water cooling....like the RX 580 for example lol
 
I was referring to my first go at it 3 years ago and investing $600+ (card and block) into something I can damage beyond repair isn't smart, which also doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand. I get where you're coming from, and believe me I am the kind of guy who genuinely enjoys figuring stuff out themselves through just doing it, trial and error, etc.....but that's OK when I'm learning to solder on PCBs with a $40 Xbox controller.....not OK when I potentially turn a $600 graphics card setup into a "for parts" ebay listing lol

after my first go, I don't need instructions to make me feel safe anymore. I didn't have the confidence to ruin new and expensive stuff thinking my shit doesn't stink and knew better. one of those "hold my beer" memes come to mind, like I can do that, that ain't hard. then epic fail. I wasn't going to go that route. let a newb learn at their pace basically. and learn I did. but for thermal pads, it's beneficial to know which thickness goes where. when you're given 1 giant strip and have to cut it up, it would be easy to cut it in such a way that would leave you without enough for all components that need it. I like that EK diagrammed the cut and placement pattern to help there for example. unless they are all the same thickness, and precut to size, that would be intimidating to a newb. that .5mm difference for some could be easily missed for example


the bykski block? I know it had nothing to do with that too lol. I was referring to the motherboard VRM heatsink....it looks like the CPU mounting plate/mechanism would be in the way if you didn't cut it back is what I meant. Idk what a mid plate is....so what is that?

and yea the 1080 is so old Bykski would be the only company silly enough to keep manufacturing them, or it's just "old new stock" since anyone who wanted a WB likely got one years ago. I notice Bykski makes blocks for cards most people wouldn't even consider water cooling....like the RX 580 for example lol

Ok sorry my mistake

Though a 1080ti is still a viable GPU.

Got a good pic of my PC earlier. The blue is the light on the back of the monitor.
20220421_021955.jpg
 
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just had a res tube arrived today so changed my pump n res to a ddc X-res ive had laying around for at least 18 months waiting to get a bigger tube. do the clicky thing to make big.
IMG_1167.JPG
IMG_1165.JPG
 
Would it be worth switching my CPU block to a heatkiller IV basic acetal, i would go for the copper pro too?

EDIT

Just bought a heatkiller IV Basic Acrylic should still be better than the EK classic i reckon. Switched back to the black EK ZMT tubing too, it just looks better, and got only 1 90' fitting in my loop now.
1011127.jpg
 
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