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3800X build bad performance - what am I doing wrong?

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@TheLostSwede
I set it to GEN 3, no difference. I ran self test in bios, no errors, I run smart self test and short scan in windows, no errors.
But now the SSD is also too hot...
1589221153144.png


I did partition the drive, that can't be a problem for NVMe, right?
These are the now bench results, same old bad:
1589221332267.png


As you know, I have it installed in the M2.1 slot (upper one) which sits directly under the GPU. The GPU I have doesn't spin when not under load so it gets a little hot there, that's normal.
I have read that slot 1 is controlled by CPU, slot 2 by chipset. recommended is slot 1, and somebody here mentioned that the passive cooling is good enough so I shouldn't bother.
Just don't know if I should attempt to put it in slot 2 anyway to get better temps.

As for the "Fast Startup in Windows" - tried disabling it, same results as enabled.

About the IF, I have set that one in AI Tweaker as well as I was tweaking, 1600 for a 3200 doccp profile, that's what you mean, right?

New questions:
  1. Which chipset driver ya'll recommend? AMD or Asus rog strix one? I'm prepping all the things I need for the fresh install.
  2. wait a second, as I all told you, I have the latest UEFI Bios 1408. When I go to Armoury Crate, it recommends me Bios 0804, what's going on there. Somebody already wrote in this thread that it's a shit software, should I keep it uninstalled in my clean setup?
 
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@TheLostSwede
I set it to GEN 3, no difference. I ran self test in bios, no errors, I run smart self test and short scan in windows, no errors.
But now the SSD is also too hot...
View attachment 154784

I did partition the drive, that can't be a problem for NVMe, right?
These are the now bench results, same old bad:
View attachment 154785

As you know, I have it installed in the M2.1 slot (upper one) which sits directly under the GPU. The GPU I have doesn't spin when not under load so it gets a little hot there, that's normal.
I have read that slot 1 is controlled by CPU, slot 2 by chipset. recommended is slot 1, and somebody here mentioned that the passive cooling is good enough so I shouldn't bother.
Just don't know if I should attempt to put it in slot 2 anyway to get better temps.

As for the "Fast Startup in Windows" - tried disabling it, same results as enabled.

About the IF, I have set that one in AI Tweaker as well as I was tweaking, 1600 for a 3200 doccp profile, that's what you mean, right?

New questions:
  1. Which chipset driver ya'll recommend? AMD or Asus rog strix one? I'm prepping all the things I need for the fresh install.
  2. wait a second, as I all told you, I have the latest UEFI Bios 1408. When I go to Armoury Crate, it recommends me Bios 0804, what's going on there. Somebody already wrote in this thread that it's a shit software, should I keep it uninstalled in my clean setup?
:roll:
That's fine, 59 degrees is nothing for an M.2 drive, as long as it's not for extended periods of time, as then it'll thermal throttle.
It's quite hard to thermal throttle Samsung drives though.
Have a look at this. Obviously the controller doesn't like too much heat, but the flash is almost perfect around that temperature, as long as it gets to cool down after a write operation before you turn off the computer.

You worry a bit too much about some things. My WD Black SSD hits 60-65 degrees during benchmarking, so relax.

Partitioning it shouldn't affect the performance.

Can you try this, for a laugh?

I wouldn't bother messing with the SSD, it's fine where it is.

Ok, it was worth a try.

You don't need to manually change the IF speed, unless you go over 3600MHz. It's handled by the UEFI/AGESA if you don't, so leave it on auto for now.

Always install the drivers from AMD/Intel/chip maker, as the motherboard makers are notoriously bad when it comes to putting up new drivers on their sites.

Don't use that crappy armoury crate thing, it's bloatware and might actually be one of the things that slows down your system. 1408 is what you want to use. 0804 is from July last year, so that's a really, really old UEFI, don't touch that one.
 
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hehe @TheLostSwede , of course I gotta worry too much, my PC is crap :eek::wtf::).

here we go:
1589227109270.png


thanks, will only install from AMD than.
But how can I install AI Suite 3 without crate, I thought that one is part of it.. gotta google it. I need AI tuner for the fan curves, let me know if there's a better way to adjust.

gotta sign off, see ya tmrw.
 
And a tip, in the UEFI, if you look under Hot Keys, there's an option to take screenshots in the UEF straight to a FAT32 formatted USB drive.
I always wondered how ppl did this!
 
hehe @TheLostSwede , of course I gotta worry too much, my PC is crap :eek::wtf::).

here we go:
View attachment 154802

thanks, will only install from AMD than.
But how can I install AI Suite 3 without crate, I thought that one is part of it.. gotta google it. I need AI tuner for the fan curves, let me know if there's a better way to adjust.

gotta sign off, see ya tmrw.
Ok, CrystalDiskMark looks ok-ish. Writes are still low and the RND4K Q1T1 aren't great, so it's not just the Samsung benchmark that's messed up. I just wanted to double verify this.

All downloads for your motherboard are here
Look under Utilities and it's a 165MB download separate from the Armoury Crate.
Neither are needed installs though and you can set the fan curve in the UEFI, using QFan Control.
mode-ez.jpg

ASUS%20X99A%20BIOS%2007%20-%20QFan.jpg
 
@TheLostSwede
only 7 would need to run with "other OS", 8.1/10 need uefi or bios cant talk to the gpt drives.
even if installing on a usb3 only rig, that only needs CSM enable (and can usually be turned off after install finished).

@ecopsorn
set anything for "calibration/capabilities" on the power stuff to optimal/optimized/asus if its available.
on my asus boards i've seen that auto sometimes allows stuff that goes past what is need/should be.
e.g. allowed voltages/currents were way higher even that i didn't oc.

before you do the clean install i would set those things, and disable fastboot (at least during install of win),
and switch other OS to UEFI.
 
Ok, CrystalDiskMark looks ok-ish. Writes are still low and the RND4K Q1T1 aren't great, so it's not just the Samsung benchmark that's messed up. I just wanted to double verify this.

All downloads for your motherboard are here
Look under Utilities and it's a 165MB download separate from the Armoury Crate.
Neither are needed installs though and you can set the fan curve in the UEFI, using QFan Control.
  • regarding the SSD bench, so let's wait it up until I have a fresh install and do the benchmark again. I'd like to know in the end whether I should accept it or have another piece of hardware that I need to send back
  • Thanks I knew the link to the mobo, but I didn't expand the utilities tab haha. I will first try without it. Ofc I also know that the fans can be adjusted in bios, but I thought it to be more convenient in windows. But once it is set, I won't touch it anyway anymore.
  • Another reason why I had it installed is because I wanted to see whether I can adjust the PCH fan, which is not possible. The PCH fan is at 2800-3300rpm constantly and it is the loudest fan in my system, so I was trying to find a way to control that fan. There are somewhere bios "adaptations" that make it possible to control the fan, but to be honest, giving my current state that nothing works as it should, it is probably the best not to mess with that... If you have any suggestion how to handle this otherwise, let me know

@ecopsorn
set anything for "calibration/capabilities" on the power stuff to optimal/optimized/asus if its available.
on my asus boards i've seen that auto sometimes allows stuff that goes past what is need/should be.
e.g. allowed voltages/currents were way higher even that i didn't oc.

before you do the clean install i would set those things, and disable fastboot (at least during install of win),
and switch other OS to UEFI.

thanks, will do that. But where do you mean in regards to "calibration/capabilities", in Bios or somewhere in windows? As I said, in windows I had selected the Ryzen Balanced power plan as it is everywhere suggested to be the best powerplan for ryzen 3000.
 
  • regarding the SSD bench, so let's wait it up until I have a fresh install and do the benchmark again. I'd like to know in the end whether I should accept it or have another piece of hardware that I need to send back
  • Thanks I knew the link to the mobo, but I didn't expand the utilities tab haha. I will first try without it. Ofc I also know that the fans can be adjusted in bios, but I thought it to be more convenient in windows. But once it is set, I won't touch it anyway anymore.
  • Another reason why I had it installed is because I wanted to see whether I can adjust the PCH fan, which is not possible. The PCH fan is at 2800-3300rpm constantly and it is the loudest fan in my system, so I was trying to find a way to control that fan. There are somewhere bios "adaptations" that make it possible to control the fan, but to be honest, giving my current state that nothing works as it should, it is probably the best not to mess with that... If you have any suggestion how to handle this otherwise, let me know
I'm surprised the chipset fan is the loudest one and in fact, that it's spinning at all. Mine doesn't spin at all during regular use. I also have an option in the UEFI to set it to quiet mode.

The rest, I guess we'll see.
 
I just did a 3600/x570 strix E build and I couldn't hear the chipset fan either over TT RGB plus 120mm fans running at 6-800rpm

I also can't hear it on my Hero VIII.

On my aorus master it was off at all times except during boot.



I've been keeping and eye on your thread and got to say it's a shame you're having so many issues I've had zero with the 3600/strix E combo all stock out of the box other than XMP with a crappy 3000 nighthawk kit (person's previous PC died in a power surge) and it just has a cheap mx500 boot drive. Boot time was around 11-12 seconds which is around the same as my hero VIII with an Nvme drive and slightly faster than the aorus master with the same drive.



I would try and reflash the bios assuming you haven't already.

On my z390 code a couple bios revisions ago I was having similar problems to what you're describing at boot and a fresh bios install fixed it.
 
3200/C16 memory is a big no no for Ryzen. You will loose 5-15% gaming perf.
 
I'm surprised the chipset fan is the loudest one and in fact, that it's spinning at all. Mine doesn't spin at all during regular use. I also have an option in the UEFI to set it to quiet mode.

The rest, I guess we'll see.
damn, too bad I can't adjust it

I just did a 3600/x570 strix E build and I couldn't hear the chipset fan either over TT RGB plus 120mm fans running at 6-800rpm

I also can't hear it on my Hero VIII.

On my aorus master it was off at all times except during boot.

I've been keeping and eye on your thread and got to say it's a shame you're having so many issues I've had zero with the 3600/strix E combo all stock out of the box other than XMP with a crappy 3000 nighthawk kit (person's previous PC died in a power surge) and it just has a cheap mx500 boot drive. Boot time was around 11-12 seconds which is around the same as my hero VIII with an Nvme drive and slightly faster than the aorus master with the same drive.

I would try and reflash the bios assuming you haven't already.

On my z390 code a couple bios revisions ago I was having similar problems to what you're describing at boot and a fresh bios install fixed it.

Thanks for your input, yeah I'm very unlucky. I'm starting with the ram now and clean windows but a highly doubt that when I have fixed both, all problems are solved. There seems to bee too much wrong with my rig.

For the bios, what I did when I bought at all the parts is first thing updated the bios to 1407 (before very first windows install). I'm sure that I had these issues back than already on 1407 because I want have noticed a boot time of 20 or less sec.
Only a week ago I upgraded to 1408 and than I started slowly to question it all. As I wrote in the thread, there is not only the major issue of boot time, almost every bench I ran in the system gives crappy results. GPU bench, Cinebench, RamBench incl. delay of 83ns, and now even SSD bench. Nobody in the thread pointed out yet that my mobo could be faulty, so I'm taking things slow and start with the ram (where we have proof that the sticks I had were crap, so I gonna sell them).

For the Bios flash, to what version of the bios would the flash be advised? I think I never have than a bios flash, the only thing I did with this rig is plenty of times a CMOS reset with the jumper solution.
 
@las

Unless you're gaming at 4K. I lose nothing with my setup and I just have 3200/C16 Micron E Ballistix, but yes, at lower resolutions it does make a difference. That said, I tested my sticks at 3600/c16 1080p just out of curiosity and they were still good lol.
 
I'm gaming at 2560x1440 - 165Hz on my main screen and got 2 side monitors at 1920x1200
 
For the Bios flash, to what version of the bios would the flash be advised? I think I never have than a bios flash, the only thing I did with this rig is plenty of times a CMOS reset with the jumper solution.

i would start with the previous bios see if it behaves the same or if it behaves slightly better I would also unplug all drives other than the boot drive. If nothing changes re flash the latest bios. If you have an empty sata ssd I would also install windows on it with all other drives removed just to see if you have the same boot issue.
 
I have the same board and am scratching my head how your board needs this much tweaking? For ex. your m.2 sits at 59c whereas both of mine are at 31c.
 
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I have the same board and am scratching my head how your board needs this much tweaking? For ex. your m.2 sits at 59c whereas both of mine are at 31c.
That was not idle, that was after benchmarking it.
 
I didn't change a thing and get better results now:
1589303459733.png

I also have no idea why my temps are so low now compared to last time
Benching in fact didn't raise the temp by a single degree now.

I ran two benches in a row, the first one you see results above, the second one had almost same results, except write which was at 2890, wtf
 
I didn't change a thing and get better results now:
View attachment 154925
I also have no idea why my temps are so low now compared to last time
Benching in fact didn't raise the temp by a single degree now.

I ran two benches in a row, the first one you see results above, the second one had almost same results, except write which was at 2890, wtf
Sequential speeds are spot on now.
Sadly you're still only getting about a quarter of the IOPS you should be seeing, assuming that's 4KB, QD32.
Sure, it's up to figures, but 150k-ish is way slow for that drive.

Random Read Speed
Random Read (4KB, QD32): Up to 600,000 IOPS; Random Read (4KB, QD1): Up to 19,000 IOPS * Performance may vary based on system hardware & configuration
Random Write Speed
Random Write (4KB, QD32): Up to 550,000 IOPS; Random Write (4KB, QD1): Up to 60,000 IOPS * Performance may vary based on system hardware & configuration

Peak temp after Crystal is still under 40c though.
You're lucky then, as neither of my two NVMe drive stay that cool after five runs of CrystalDiskMark.
 
@TheLostSwede hope I can get the IOPS up there as well somehow, probably gonna get another one and raid 0 that shit and show off here haha, just joking :roll:

by the way, ram should arrive before the weekend. Do u think I should get windows cleaned before I install the new ram or shall I put in the ram with the current win install so we can continue troubleshooting?
 
@TheLostSwede hope I can get the IOPS up there as well somehow, probably gonna get another one and raid 0 that shit and show off here haha, just joking :roll:

by the way, ram should arrive before the weekend. Do u think I should get windows cleaned before I install the new ram or shall I put in the ram with the current win install so we can continue troubleshooting?
I thought you were doing the fresh install regardless?
 
Yes of course but the question is whether I should do it with the current ram already or if I should wait until I put the new ones in?

The ram takes seconds to put in. I would put it in and see what happens. That way you know right off if the ram had any effect.
 
@LifeOnMars
lol, you will have a performance loss ANYTIME your not running ram at 3600, as IF clocks go down with it,
lowering overall performance.
e.g. high load on the cpu/ram would be hurting, and its not limited to (4K) gaming,
so unless your reading only pdf's all day, 3600 for ram is best.

@ecopsorn
would really be surprised if your board has no fan controls, as even the low end msi i got had it.
check all tabs the bios offers, might be called different than PCH fan.
setting it to balanced/silent usually is enough.

and yes, install ram first before installing win again.
maybe run one (full) test with memtest, just to see if xmp/docp/spd settings dont get you any errors.
 
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The ram takes seconds to put in. I would put it in and see what happens. That way you know right off if the ram had any effect.

yeah thought so, too - like this I can rerun all tests, report back and than format C :laugh:

@ecopsorn
would really be surprised if your board has no fan controls, as even the low end msi i got had it.
check all tabs the bios offers, might be called different than PCH fan.
setting it to balanced/silent usually is enough.

and yes, install ram first before installing win again.
maybe run one (full) test with memtest, just to see if xmp/docp/spd settings dont get you any errors.

nah the board really doesn’t have PCH fan control, it is also being discussed in the rog strix forums. There is only a custom bios flash around I din’t wanna try.

you mean memtest with the bew or old ram? With the old ones I ran one over night once and it all passed
 
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