Computer Cuts Power (Shuts Down)

[Vayra86]

You're all forgetting the fact as I mentioned before that his case has no provisions for directing outside air through the PSU if he did mount it with the fan facing down I Just said to make sure it's mounted with the fan facing up because mounting it facing down would block the PSU fan completely providing NO ventilation through the PSU.

Oh crap! I thought the Antec 300 had a grille on the bottom. NEVER MIND the previous statement in that case.

 

[Mr.Scott]

You're all forgetting the fact as I mentioned before that his case has no provisions for directing outside air through the PSU if he did mount it with the fan facing down I Just said to make sure it's mounted with the fan facing up because mounting it facing down would block the PSU fan completely providing NO ventilation through the PSU.

I do concede to that.
There are different models of the 300 though, some do have the bottom vent.

 

[chuck216]

Oh crap! I thought the Antec 300 had a grille on the bottom. NEVER MIND the previous statement in that case.

nope the 300 is basically a scaled down version of the 900, which despite being one of the best airflow cases there is has no bottom vents either.

 

[Bill_Bright]

It does unless the user has perfect temperature control

Perfect temperature control? Nobody but scientific laboratories have that. Except for first thing in the morning, who keeps their home temperatures at 60°F?

He has an Antec 300, which is bottom mounted and also means you can have a closed airflow circuit for the PSU

Closed airflow??? Bull feathers! There is nothing "closed" about it. While the original 300 did not have a bottom vent (the V2 does), the PSU does not sit on the bottom. There is still more than 1/4" clearance to draw air in (assuming the intake is on the bottom).

You're all forgetting the fact as I mentioned before that his case has no provisions for directing outside air through the PSU if he did mount it with the fan facing down

What??? NO!!!!!!!!! Of course that case lets you direct heated air out the back. You guys are not thinking this through. Show me a PSU that draws air "in" from the back of the PSU (where it mounts to the case). You are not going to find one unless the user stupidly opened the case and turned the fan around.

Have any of you done a build with the 300? I have. If you look at the images of the rear, you can easily see by the mounting holes the Antec 300 support mounting the PSU up or down.

 

[chuck216]

Perfect temperature control? Nobody but scientific laboratories have that. Except for first thing in the morning, who keeps their home temperatures at 60°F?
Closed airflow??? Bull feathers! There is nothing "closed" about it. While the original 300 did not have a bottom vent (the V2 does), the PSU does not sit on the bottom. There is still more than 1/4" clearance to draw air in (assuming the intake is on the bottom).


What??? NO!!!!!!!!! Of course that case lets you direct heated air out the back. You guys are not thinking this through. Show me a PSU that draws air "in" from the back of the PSU (where it mounts to the case). You are not going to find one unless the user stupidly opened the case and turned the fan around.

Have any of you done a build with the 300? I have. If you look at the images of the rear, you can easily see by the mounting holes the Antec 300 support mounting the PSU up or down.

Bill... the PSU directs air through it out the back of the case The issue I was directing was due to the fact the 300 has no grill vent in the bottom of the case that even with the standouts the PSU fan wouldn't provide enough airflow to suck air through the PSU and out the back of the case. 1/4 inch is not enough of a gap for proper airflow IMHO.

Also bringing up airflow inside that case, OP do you have all of the tri-cool fans inside that case set to their highest setting. The goal here is to get temperatures as low as possible... noise shouldn't matter, and is an acceptable tradeoff for ventilation.

 

[Bill_Bright]

The issue I was directing was due to the fact the 300 has no grill vent in the bottom of the case that even with the standouts the PSU fan wouldn't provide enough airflow to suck air through the PSU and out the back of the case. 1/4 inch is not enough of a gap for proper airflow IMHO.

And I am saying, typically that gap is not an issue (and I say this from personal experience with that case). For one, it is enough space unless the fan needs to run at full speed, which is not going to happen unless the PSU is being pushed near capacity (suggesting too small a PSU).

But more importantly, I am saying it does not matter if the user properly mounted the PSU! If the PSU is mounted with the PSU's intake vent towards the case interior, which the Antec 300 allows, there is no reason to mount the PSU with the intake down (on the first edition 300). On later V2 models, you should mount the PSU with intake down because they added a filtered vent there.

So, bottom line here is if the OP has incorrectly mounted the PSU with the intake vent on the bottom (assuming first edition Antec 300), turn it over! Problem solved (at least in terms of PSU cooling).

 

[chuck216]

And I am saying, typically that gap is not an issue (and I say this from personal experience with that case). For one, it is enough space unless the fan needs to run at full speed, which is not going to happen unless the PSU is being pushed near capacity (suggesting too small a PSU).

But more importantly, I am saying it does not matter if the user properly mounted the PSU! If the PSU is mounted with the PSU's intake vent towards the case interior, which the Antec 300 allows, there is no reason to mount the PSU with the intake down (on the first edition 300). On later V2 models, you should mount the PSU with intake down because they added a filtered vent there.

So, bottom line here is if the OP has incorrectly mounted the PSU with the intake vent on the bottom (assuming first edition Antec 300), turn it over! Problem solved (at least in terms of PSU cooling).

LOL that's what I was trying to say

 

[Vayra86]

And I am saying, typically that gap is not an issue (and I say this from personal experience with that case). For one, it is enough space unless the fan needs to run at full speed, which is not going to happen unless the PSU is being pushed near capacity (suggesting too small a PSU).

But more importantly, I am saying it does not matter if the user properly mounted the PSU! If the PSU is mounted with the PSU's intake vent towards the case interior, which the Antec 300 allows, there is no reason to mount the PSU with the intake down (on the first edition 300). On later V2 models, you should mount the PSU with intake down because they added a filtered vent there.

So, bottom line here is if the OP has incorrectly mounted the PSU with the intake vent on the bottom (assuming first edition Antec 300), turn it over! Problem solved (at least in terms of PSU cooling).

Yeah, we were actually saying the same thing I was just confizzled with the V2 Antec 300.

 

[OneMoar]

common sense says replace the psu and cooler and not spend 4 pages bickering about AMD's shitty design

 

[chuck216]

common sense says replace the psu and cooler and not spend 4 pages bickering about AMD's shitty design

Yes simply replacing the cooler and PSU doesn't address the fact his Northbridge ad VRM temps are too high.

You can have the best PSU made and CPU watercooling setup in the world it still isn't going to lower those.
Though I suspect part of the high temps is the GPU getting too hot during gaming, not necessarily too hot for the GPU as they are safe up to 90C under the default fan profile though manually setting the fan speed on the GPU could lower the GPU load temps conciderably under load.

I have the same basic CPU 8320 vs 8530 and exact same Motherboard inside a very similar case Antec 900 vs 300 only real difference is the coolers,
He's using a waterblock while I have a very ancient top-down air cooler. But my temps shouldn't be so much lower than his especially since my ambient temps are most likely higher than his I have only a window AC in a different room to cool the room through an open door. Ambient is around 26C and that's on a cool day, hot days can hit 30C+.

 

[Tatty_Two]

Really? I didn't realise that in the hour since I last logged in that W1z had added a new sub forum entitled "Nursery School" to the site, stop derailing this thread with childish fanboi flamebait nonsense please..... thread cleansed.

 

[jed]

I'll try to answer what was asked to me in the past couple pages.

No, I have not changed the OC yet.
My PSU is mounted with the fan "up" inside the case. Putting a piece of paper at the outside of the case on the vent blows it away, doesn't suck it in.
My GPU is staying cool - I am monitoring that temp and I've got it pretty steady.
My GPU is running manual fans at 80%.
My fans that have the control notches are set to the highest speed (top exhaust and rear exhaust). Don't know how to control the two front intake fans.
All I know for the HWMonitor MoBo Temps are: TMPIN0, TMPIN1, TMPIN2.

Example temps from tonight (in C):
1 game LoL ~35 minutes:
MoBo Max: 33, 56, 72
CPU Max: 62
HDD/SSD: 25, 25
GPU: 47

This is my computer desk. I cut two holes where the two fans would otherwise be restricted, and put a grille over the holes. The front and back are completely open for air to come in/escape. They grilles are above the exhaust fan up top and the intake fan on the side. I don't figure this would be the cause of insane temps, but just though I'd share it to add to the possibilities.

Still too hot. New cooling solution and fans on VRM and back of socket are eminent.
Have you had any more shutdowns?

How would one add a fan to that side of the case? There are no cutouts for it. Should I take the back panel of my case off to let the heat escape out the rear side of the board?

So far no more shutdowns, but did have that screen freeze issue.

Edit: Just saw your reply with the fan pic. Would that require me to just remove the case panel and run that fan? Where would I wire it into? Suck air into the mobo/socket or blow hot air out of it? Could you link me an example of a fan, or the fan you posted?

Going off the example temps earlier:

Example temps from tonight (in C):
1 game LoL ~35 minutes:
MoBo Max: 33, 56, 72
CPU Max: 62
HDD/SSD: 25, 25
GPU: 47

I come back and see after idling the temps have maxed out at (in C):
MoBo Max: 89, 111, 105
CPU, HDD/SSD and GPU are the same.

WTF is going on?! I honestly don't know what causes this. Why can I run a game and have regular (albeit a bit high) temps, but then walk away from my computer and come back an hour later to a practically melted MoBo?

 

[OneMoar]

Going off the example temps earlier:

Example temps from tonight (in C):
1 game LoL ~35 minutes:
MoBo Max: 33, 56, 72
CPU Max: 62
HDD/SSD: 25, 25
GPU: 47

I come back and see after idling the temps have maxed out at (in C):
MoBo Max: 89, 111, 105
CPU, HDD/SSD and GPU are the same.

WTF is going on?!

you have a bad sensor ignore it probably just the sensor flaking out spitting bad values
if you wanna be sure get a IR temp-gun and check it

 

[chuck216]

I'll try to answer what was asked to me in the past couple pages.

No, I have not changed the OC yet.
My PSU is mounted with the fan "up" inside the case. Putting a piece of paper at the outside of the case on the vent blows it away, doesn't suck it in.
My GPU is staying cool - I am monitoring that temp and I've got it pretty steady.
My GPU is running manual fans at 80%.
My fans that have the control notches are set to the highest speed (top exhaust and rear exhaust). Don't know how to control the two front intake fans.
All I know for the HWMonitor MoBo Temps are: TMPIN0, TMPIN1, TMPIN2.

Example temps from tonight (in C):
1 game LoL ~35 minutes:
MoBo Max: 33, 56, 72
CPU Max: 62
HDD/SSD: 25, 25
GPU: 47

This is my computer desk. I cut two holes where the two fans would otherwise be restricted, and put a grille over the holes. The front and back are completely open for air to come in/escape. They grilles are above the exhaust fan up top and the intake fan on the side. I don't figure this would be the cause of insane temps, but just though I'd share it to add to the possibilities.








How would one add a fan to that side of the case? There are no cutouts for it. Should I take the back panel of my case off to let the heat escape out the rear side of the board?

So far no more shutdowns, but did have that screen freeze issue.

Edit: Just saw your reply with the fan pic. Would that require me to just remove the case panel and run that fan? Where would I wire it into? Suck air into the mobo/socket or blow hot air out of it? Could you link me an example of a fan, or the fan you posted?

Going off the example temps earlier:

Example temps from tonight (in C):
1 game LoL ~35 minutes:
MoBo Max: 33, 56, 72
CPU Max: 62
HDD/SSD: 25, 25
GPU: 47

I come back and see after idling the temps have maxed out at (in C):
MoBo Max: 89, 111, 105
CPU, HDD/SSD and GPU are the same.

WTF is going on?! I honestly don't know what causes this. Why can I run a game and have regular (albeit a bit high) temps, but then walk away from my computer and come back an hour later to a practically melted MoBo?

Question: Is there hot air coming out of the top exhaust fan when you hold your hand over it after the idle time, and are you sure it's really idling and not doing something in the background such as runnng prime95 or occt or folding etc. those temps if accurate are the result of a long time of serious load on the system.

also one other question.... where do you have the radiator for your H60 mounted and which way is the airflow going?

 

[jed]

Question: Is there hot air coming out of the top exhaust fan when you hold your hand over it after the idle time, and are you sure it's really idling and not doing something in the background such as runnng prime95 or occt or folding etc. those temps if accurate are the result of a long time of serious load on the system.

also one other question.... where do you have the radiator for your H60 mounted and which way is the airflow going?

No, the air is pretty cool coming out of my top exhaust. I don't have anything running like that. Maybe Google Chrome sitting in the back ground is all.

I have a side vent in my case. It's the side vent, an intake fan, and then the H60 radiator.

This is a Google pic, but it's like this, but on the side of my case and not the back.

 

[Tatty_Two]

I would stick another fan on that Rad straight off, I presume that existing fan is sucking out and not blowing the hot air back in.

 

[chuck216]

I would stick another fan on that Rad straight off, I presume that existing fan is sucking out and not blowing the hot air back in.

I agree that radiator should be push/pull towards the back of the computer.

The air being cool while the readings being high points to false readings, if your VRM's northbridge etc were reaching over 100c the air coming out would feel like holding your hand over a toaster.

 

[jed]

I agree that radiator should be push/pull towards the back of the computer.

The air being cool while the readings being high points to false readings, if your VRM's northbridge etc were reaching over 100c the air coming out would feel like holding your hand over a toaster.

Right... The air is cool. But so far I have not witnessed it reaching the ridiculous temps, they only miraculously show up when I return to my computer from idle and see it's reported a new ridiculous max temp.

I would stick another fan on that Rad straight off, I presume that existing fan is sucking out and not blowing the hot air back in.

So right now it's intake->radiator. I should get another fan and change it to intake->radiator->intake? One sucking air in from the outside into the radiator, and the next one sucking air from the radiator to the inside of the case? Can I just add a simple fan like this in and plug it in somewhere on the board?

 

[chuck216]

So right now it's intake->radiator. I should get another fan and change it to intake->radiator->intake? One sucking air in from the outside into the radiator, and the next one sucking air from the radiator to the inside of the case? Can I just add a simple fan like this in and plug it in somewhere on the board?

No from the rear of the computer it should be Exhaust<Radiator<Exhaust your rear case fan should NEVER be an intake under any circumstances, especially when using a radiator it means the radiator is pumping hot air off it into the interior of your case... that could be the cause of your high MB temps.

After thinking about this Jed I'm wondering what you did with the original tri-cool Antec fan that was in the rear exhaust position of your case originally, because the way to set up that Radiator would have been to mount it to the existing fan on your case with that fan set on high via the switch on it and the fan that came with the H80 plugged into the CPU header set to push through the radiator towards the back of the computer and in the BIOS setting the CPU fan to run at 100% as thermal control is iffy when using a radiator.

Oh BTW I happen to know for a fact this is the cause of your shutdowns... the fan and radiator were blowing hot air off of it directly onto your VRM's which are right next to the radiator. The VRMs on a GA-990FXA-UD3 are very sensitive to heat especially the Rev 3 and lower models they drop voltage if they get too hot and the lowered voltage is too low to support your overclock, triggering a hard shutdown.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I say this is perfect justification to get yourself a decent IR Thermometer. I bought mine to verify chipset (system), CPU and GPU temps, but I use it all the time to check the frying pan, grill, refrigerator, freezer, coffee warmer, HVAC thermostat, foreheads (not eyes), and more. I have found it to be an indispensable tool.

 

[jed]

No from the rear of the computer it should be Exhaust<Radiator<Exhaust your rear case fan should NEVER be an intake under any circumstances, especially when using a radiator it means the radiator is pumping hot air off it into the interior of your case... that could be the cause of your high MB temps.

After thinking about this Jed I'm wondering what you did with the original tri-cool Antec fan that was in the rear exhaust position of your case originally, because the way to set up that Radiator would have been to mount it to the existing fan on your case with that fan set on high via the switch on it and the fan that came with the H80 plugged into the CPU header set to push through the radiator towards the back of the computer and in the BIOS setting the CPU fan to run at 100% as thermal control is iffy when using a radiator.

Oh BTW I happen to know for a fact this is the cause of your shutdowns... the fan and radiator were blowing hot air off of it directly onto your VRM's which are right next to the radiator. The VRMs on a GA-990FXA-UD3 are very sensitive to heat especially the Rev 3 and lower models they drop voltage if they get too hot and the lowered voltage is too low to support your overclock, triggering a hard shutdown.

Hey there. I think you may have misunderstood or I miscommunicated. The CPU fan and radiator are on the side. The rear of my case has the tri-speed fan as an exhaust.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Hey there. I think you may have misunderstood or I miscommunicated. The CPU fan and radiator are on the side. The rear of my case has the tri-speed fan as an exhaust.

I understood your setup. I personally would move that rad to the back of the case with the 2 fans push/pull to the rear, and the tri-cool to the side as intake.

 

[trog100]

I say this is perfect justification to get yourself a decent IR Thermometer. I bought mine to verify chipset (system), CPU and GPU temps, but I use it all the time to check the frying pan, grill, refrigerator, freezer, coffee warmer, HVAC thermostat, foreheads (not eyes), and more. I have found it to be an indispensable tool.

an essential tool i am surprised they dont get more of a mention..

trog

 

[chuck216]

Hey there. I think you may have misunderstood or I miscommunicated. The CPU fan and radiator are on the side. The rear of my case has the tri-speed fan as an exhaust.

Take a REAL good look at the picture you posted, Where is that radiator mounted?

No, the air is pretty cool coming out of my top exhaust. I don't have anything running like that. Maybe Google Chrome sitting in the back ground is all.

I have a side vent in my case. It's the side vent, an intake fan, and then the H60 radiator. This is a Google pic, but it's like this, but on the side of my case and not the back.

That's the rear exhaust port the radiator is mounted to not the side panel and I stand by my original statement if you choose to not make sure the hot air from that rad is going to the outside of the rear of the case then there's not much I can do.

edit. The only way it's possible to consider that a "side" fan and the top fan a "rear" fan is if your computer is laying on it's side which still doesn't change what they really are.

 

[jaggerwild]

That fan up top, looks like it can move some volume. I would move the rad to the case(put the fan out side the case)behind it. I'd also replace that fan with a high volume air mover, them pre-made unit's seem to clog up n bog down over time. Prolly use jelly inside them, if you can get where you can look inside the PSU see if its got dust bunnies. Also look for bad caps(bulging top or button), if they look old n aged and you do run it over night a lot try swapping it for a newer one. Or if you have a micro center near buy one if it does fix then return it MC is pretty good with returns.