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Custom Hi-Fi Systems/Car Subwoofers for PC Speakers

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also what difference i get from replacing it ??
 
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I'm using a Harman Kardon HK-6100 amp and Mission 730's
Hardly custom, but it's the one of the best sounding systems I've ever heard, especially with explosions and helicopters!
I'll get a photo up soon.
 
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also what difference i get from replacing it ??
May or may not be able to go louder. Experiment ultimately the way to find out is to swap the drivers for yourself. If it's a dual coil, then try wiring it in parallel as subs like to run at the lowest ohms, just keep an eye at first when ya crank the sub up on the temperatures of the plate amp, and make sure the sub isn't bottoming out. According to this excellent article --> http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/13...distortion-clipping-and-everything-in-between , you can overpower something, just don't overdrive it, if you want to hear the maximum fidelity and loudness from a speaker, make sure it is amplified properly, have your gains set correctly among other things, then you can't go wrong. I have always said music no matter what it is can't kill a system, people, incorrect configurations, and poorly made components kill systems. The general science is --> 3 things kill speakers 1) Exceding thermal limits. 2) Exceding mechanical limits. 3) Material degradation. "Generally, amplifiers use the formula V1=G*V2. To power the amplifying device, you usually need two reference points, +Vcc and -Vcc. For symetrical reasons, they usually have the same absolute value. If these values are not high enough, the amplified peak value may exceed +-Vcc, causing clipping".
 

WOG-BOY

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Do NAD still have that very tight bass ?.
Yes it has very tight bass, I got an older version so I'm not sure if the new ones are the same
How on earth do you use car audio gear in your home and keep them all sounding clean? not to mention turn it on/off with convenience?
years ago, i remember i used a battery charger, battery and hooked up some Rockford punch amp and two 12's, freaking pounded, but very power inefficient and was far from the cleanest sound.
The PSU that poweres the RF amp has an on/off switch so I just use that to turn it off, to me the subs sound very clean, better then my yamaha hi-fi sub I used to have

@meran it might work if you wire it up properly in series maybe but I'm not sure if you will gain much more of a difference
 
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The PSU that poweres the RF amp has an on/off switch so I just use that to turn it off, to me the subs sound very clean, better then my yamaha hi-fi sub I used to have
How's the frequency response?
 

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How's the frequency response?
I'm not sure what the box is tuned to but it sounds like it peaks at arround 40-30 hz, I have the crossover set at I think 80hz last time I checked. Past 30hz isn't really the best in my house, can't hear it very well but in a brick house it sounds better
 
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Try and play with your EQ's. A little basic trick I do to tune mine is as follows. [Make sure you measure everything with ALL EQ's disabled/flat]. Write down the values of frequencies that your EQ has, then based on this generate a sinewave in a piece of software at 0dB fs going for about 2 minutes each for every frequency from the EQ. Once this is done, get a sound level meter, set your amps and whatnot to as loud as you want keeping the volume level set and sound level meter in the exact location all the time through the test. Play each sinewave frequency once, noting down the frequency and measured reading of loudness from each from the sound level meter. Once completed, create a bar graph using the data, with dB on the vertical axis, and frequency on the horizontal axis. When completed should look something similar to an EQ. This chart represents all the peaks and dips in your measured in room frequency response adjustable via your pre-defined EQ. If there is a peak in the graph on one of the frequencies, then lower that particular value on the EQ but whatever amount you deem necessary compared to on the graph. Whilst not an exact science, with a bit of experimentation and perseverance you can pretty much get your system sounding spot on, for very cheap. Detail and whatnot on the other hand is a completely different story.
 

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Try and play with your EQ's. A little basic trick I do to tune mine is as follows. [Make sure you measure everything with ALL EQ's disabled/flat]. Write down the values of frequencies that your EQ has, then based on this generate a sinewave in a piece of software at 0dB fs going for about 2 minutes each for every frequency from the EQ. Once this is done, get a sound level meter, set your amps and whatnot to as loud as you want keeping the volume level set and sound level meter in the exact location all the time through the test. Play each sinewave frequency once, noting down the frequency and measured reading of loudness from each from the sound level meter. Once completed, create a bar graph using the data, with dB on the vertical axis, and frequency on the horizontal axis. When completed should look something similar to an EQ. This chart represents all the peaks and dips in your measured in room frequency response adjustable via your pre-defined EQ. If there is a peak in the graph on one of the frequencies, then lower that particular value on the EQ but whatever amount you deem necessary compared to on the graph. Whilst not an exact science, with a bit of experimentation and perseverance you can pretty much get your system sounding spot on, for very cheap. Detail and whatnot on the other hand is a completely different story.
what software could i use to generate sinewaves? i haven't heard of any and never tried. I'll try that when i get my cap for the sub's they don't go as loud as i want at the moment because of the voltage drops.
Also what EQ would i change? i did have a system wide EQ but then changed to HDMI audio because of my new screen, i have my computer going from HDMI to my screen then 2 red and white RCA's going to my nad amp for audio, still have to connect the yamaha to the system
 
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Heaps of software can generate sine waves. Some general ones are NCH Tone Generator and RoomEQ Wizard. I use Sony Sound Forge Pro personally. I think Audacity may be able to do it too. As for changing your EQ's via HDMI, it would depend I guess on your sound card and HDMI setup on the PC itself. Otherwise I'd guess you'd have to do it on a program by program basis. EQ'ing a system is something widely used for PA setups in venues, so it is my conclusion that it can serve many well in home use as well. My method is a cheaper alternative to using a RTA (Real Time Analyzer).
 
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Yes it has very tight bass, I got an older version so I'm not sure if the new ones are the same

The PSU that poweres the RF amp has an on/off switch so I just use that to turn it off, to me the subs sound very clean, better then my yamaha hi-fi sub I used to have

@meran it might work if you wire it up properly in series maybe but I'm not sure if you will gain much more of a difference
in series i get 2xohms and 2xlower vloume:) but in parallel i will risk burning the amplifire:eek::(
 
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Location
baghdad/iraq
Processor intel i5 2500k,atom280@1930mhz
Motherboard msi h61
Cooling i have cooler master V8 but now im on stock :P
Memory team group elite 2x2 1600 @1333 7 7 7 20
Video Card(s) sapphere 5850 toxic@900/1250
Storage WD 1TB green 5400 32mb ,WD 250gb 7200/8mb
Display(s) HP 22" 1680x1050 hdmi
Case asus vento
Audio Device(s) creative XFi fatality+creative gigaworksG500 5.1
Power Supply cooler master gx 750
Software win7,64bit
Try and play with your EQ's. A little basic trick I do to tune mine is as follows. [Make sure you measure everything with ALL EQ's disabled/flat]. Write down the values of frequencies that your EQ has, then based on this generate a sinewave in a piece of software at 0dB fs going for about 2 minutes each for every frequency from the EQ. Once this is done, get a sound level meter, set your amps and whatnot to as loud as you want keeping the volume level set and sound level meter in the exact location all the time through the test. Play each sinewave frequency once, noting down the frequency and measured reading of loudness from each from the sound level meter. Once completed, create a bar graph using the data, with dB on the vertical axis, and frequency on the horizontal axis. When completed should look something similar to an EQ. This chart represents all the peaks and dips in your measured in room frequency response adjustable via your pre-defined EQ. If there is a peak in the graph on one of the frequencies, then lower that particular value on the EQ but whatever amount you deem necessary compared to on the graph. Whilst not an exact science, with a bit of experimentation and perseverance you can pretty much get your system sounding spot on, for very cheap. Detail and whatnot on the other hand is a completely different story.

i was searching for this tread for ages:laugh: thanks i will open my g500 in 2 days i hope if i got time and upload some pictures for the g500 and the burnt s700:)
 
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Power Supply cooler master gx 750
Software win7,64bit
hehe the s700 woofer has 3 coils with 8 OHMS each my original creative g500 has only one coil 6OHMS 130W so i connected 2 coils from the s700 woofer parallel to the out put the sound is almost the same isnt worth the risk :shadedshu also i was affraid from connecting the third coil in parallel cuz OHMS will come down to 3 OHMS thats too much for the AMP. unit to handle :eek:
i will find a way to fit it in our KIA optima trunk since it doesnt have a sub :shadedshu

is sony car amplifire is good ??? i finde it commercial some how ??
 
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That is indeed very interesting. Well if thats the case you can wire up 2 coils in series then in turn when you have done that, wire them to the last coil in parallel. You can technically wire up 1000 speakers to an amplifier without killing it for example. I think there are some quad box guitar speakers that use this configuration of wiring.
 
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