i7-10750H MSI GS66 10SE-044US - How can I lock this Frequency Core Multiplier to: 50 ???

[AlessioC]

So now I made this profile I will post every setting I have and the log file, can you please check it? 'cause I think something is not right in there or better I think that something is not going well and I don't know what may be so your help would be appreciated. I played for an hour or so with Ghost Recon Breakpoint, Max settings to put the cpu and gpu under heavy load.

P.S.
-Something is weird about the Speed Shift EPP if a set to 0 to get maximum boost and speed from the cores it keeps up but if I try to change it again after setting it to 0, the system crush no matter what I do, it simply crush. Any way I think this settings were in use but I'm not sure because I have noticed now that the profile wasn't saved and the voltage where default voltage, so maybe that's were the problem is about the weird behaviour of the cpu on the last run. Are you able to tell me from the log if the profile was active or not? Do you need a new log file where I am sure to been using to profile I made?

 

[(00)]

wow...

1) Temperature High 95C
2) Power High 45.7W
3) PROCHOT 85C

Your cooling efficiency is *not* very good. You need a external cooling pad.

[Check] High Performance
[uncheck] Speed Shift - EEP (Let the "High Performance" profile do the job)
[check] SpeedStep (You need this for some reason???)

Lower the CPU -140 and Cache -70

Lower Turbo Ratio to:
================
43
42
40
39
37
36

Good Night 8 )

 

[AlessioC]

Your cooling efficiency is *not* very good. You need a external cooling pad.

I already have one but I don't understand why I get this temperature?

1) Temperature High 95C

That temperature was before i set the prochot point to 85, so it is my fault to have leave it without clearing old value before taking this screens

[check] SpeedStep (You need this for some reason???)

You mean I have to check SpeedStep right?

I will change all value and give a it a run.

[uncheck] Speed Shift - EEP (Let the "High Performance" profile do the job)

I wasn't aware that High Performance has is own value, so that may be a huge problem with my cpu and the reason why it wasn't working well.

2) Power High 45.7W

Is that a problem?

 

[(00)]

I wasn't aware that High Performance has is own value, so that may be a huge problem with my cpu and the reason why it wasn't working well.

Yes, *if* the two are different, they will fight each other.

(00)

 

[AlessioC]

Ok I checked and tested only the high performance mod, so this is my question, why now it isn't going over 2.6 GHz? Temps are really great now and it is doing is job, but what will may happen if I check Shift Speed EPP, set it to 32, and uncheck High Performance?

Edit:
It seems like the turbo is being somehow disabled

what will may happen if I check Shift Speed EPP, set it to 32, and uncheck High Performance?

I tried this and when I unchecked the High Performance mod, it continue to run, but as soon as I change the value of the Shift Speed, from 0 I was setting it to 32, the system crushed again, don't know what I'm doing wrong, really need help here. May be related to the TPL panel? I have to check the Speed Shift there too? And also what may be preventing me to use the turbo? I haven't disabled it.

Attaching new log and new settings so you can see and maybe tell me what is going on.

 

[(00)]

I tried this and when I unchecked the High Performance mod, it continue to run, but as soon as I change the value of the Shift Speed, from 0 I was setting it to 32, the system crushed again, don't know what I'm doing wrong, really need help here. May be related to the TPL panel? I have to check the Speed Shift there too? And also what may be preventing me to use the turbo? I haven't disabled it.

Sounds like a Windows OS (Are you using Windows 11???) or BIOS Protection to me. You should disable Speed Shift - EEP and just not use it at all.

(00)

It seems like the turbo is being somehow disabled

Set PROCHOT to 95C (As a test)

Set Turbo Ratio to:
================
50
49

47
46

44
43

As a test run CinebenchR23 for 3 minutes

If performance increases to game level, everything is fine. Just put your *Old Values* back in and play your games 8 )

I would set PROCHOT to 87C though. You could even keep the *above* Turbo Ratio limits the same. But, your system will run hotter, louder and use more power.

(00)

 

[AlessioC]

Sounds like a Windows OS (Are you using Windows 11???) or BIOS Protection to me. You should disable Speed Shift - EEP and just not use it at all.

Yes I use Windows 11, is that a problem for Speed Shift EEP? But I used it before and setting it to 0 worked as the cpu always tried to keep at maximum speed, don't know what may cause the problem now with SS EPP.

As a test run CinebenchR23 for 3 minutes

Done they were, even with the settings you suggest me always running at 2.6 GHz, never going over it. I will try one thing, cause this has start to happens after I have click on the plus button near the High Performance selection, it synch with my OS somehow and after that turbo never activated, I will try to rename the ini and shutdown and restart the pc to reset Throttlestop and then once again set the value to a new profile and see if the turbo reactivated, unless you have better solution.

This plus button:

 

[unclewebb]

always running at 2.6 GHz

You need to check the Speed Shift box in the TPL window. Checking this box sends the Speed Shift Max info to the CPU. Not checking this box is probably why your CPU is limited to 2.6 GHz.

 

[AlessioC]

I would set PROCHOT to 87C though. You could even keep the *above* Turbo Ratio limits the same. But, your system will run hotter, louder and use more power.

Anyway I don't mind if the system get a little more hot, what I was trying to do is to keep it in a more acceptable temperature than before, cause it always run over to 95-98° C degree, when gaming even if not necessary. I would say that I would be much happy If it can top to something like 90°C, and be at last stable to something like 3.6-3.8 GHz, It would be awesome and I would consider my objective accomplished. I know for sure that games don't use 100% of the CPU like stress test do so I think it can be achieved, but now temps are good yes, caped at 65-68 even under stress, but it's like having the turbo disabled cause it run only at 2.6 GHz max.

You need to check the Speed Shift box in the TPL window. Checking this box sends the Speed Shift Max info to the CPU. Not checking this box is probably why your CPU is limited to 2.6 GHz.

Ok that was the problem checked each of them, in the main panel and in TPL panel, and that worked I am able to use turbo again. Now what what do you suggest to achieve this

If it can top to something like 90°C, and be at last stable to something like 3.6-3.8 GHz

?

You need to check the Speed Shift box in the TPL window. Checking this box sends the Speed Shift Max info to the CPU. Not checking this box is probably why your CPU is limited to 2.6 GHz.

If I play for about an hour can you please check my log and see if everything is running well?

 

[(00)]

You need to check the Speed Shift box in the TPL window. Checking this box sends the Speed Shift Max info to the CPU. Not checking this box is probably why your CPU is limited to 2.6 GHz.

But, the High Performance profile, should be able to handle the EPP settings alone, right???
Why would they *both need* to be checked, couldn't they conflict with each other???

(00)

 

[unclewebb]

the High Performance profile, should be able to handle the EPP settings alone

That should work but if there is a low value in the Speed Shift Max register, that can interfere with Windows. It is best to check the Speed Shift box in the TPL window to make sure that the correct Min and Max values are sent to the CPU.

 

[AlessioC]

Ok another run another crush I'm really starting to get frustrated here, don't know where my mistake is really, I followed all your step and tested it a lot before enter in a game and it was stable but now it crushed again... Well I will post once again all my settings and the last log, hope you can help me once again. To be precise this time as showed the blue screen logo crush of windows, maybe I have lowered too much the volt and it need more? (I have disabled SS EPP after the crush for better security).


Could be the BD Prochot that may have cause the crush for the gpu getting too hot?

That should work but if there is a low value in the Speed Shift Max register, that can interfere with Windows. It is best to check the Speed Shift box in the TPL window to make sure that the correct Min and Max values are sent to the CPU.

Anyway to answer that If check only the SS EPP in the TPL Panel I can't use the turbo, tried it right now, different run with CbR23 and TS Bench all times max frequency was 2.6 GHz. Maybe I have to set the value of SS EPP only to 0? 'Cause this is a value that actually worked for me in other profile.

Anyway this fucking 10750H I got is really a mess, it is too hot, it isn't cooperating with me at all. I don't know if all 10750H are such a mess, but mine is really impossible, I'm getting crazy trying to stabilize it.

 

[(00)]

Anyway this fucking 10750H I got is really a mess, it is too hot

Yup, it sure is.

And, yes your going to need more voltage.
Try making both the CPU and Cache the *same for now*. CPU -45mV Cache -45mV
PROCHOT is fine at 87C (it well bump past to 90C occasionally though), I think the *default* is 95C right???

If you want to reduce the temperatures and power drain even more ???

Set Turbo Ratio to:
================
43
42
40
39
37
36

You can even go into the MSI Advanced BIOS and turn off 2 Real Cores. Your game wont miss them.
This well save you a lot of heat and power.

(00)

 

[AlessioC]

It crushed again.... I Put the last stable value I was aware of, -80mV each, let's see what happens

Ok so far the pc as been turned on for 3 hours, no crush and 3 runs with cbR23 of 30 mins each to test stability completed so maybe it's done, anyway I was thinking if it is possible that is the BD Prochot that is causing problem cause of the GPU instead of the CPU, is that possible?

You can even go into the MSI Advanced BIOS and turn off 2 Real Cores. Your game wont miss them.
This well save you a lot of heat and power.

How to do that? And it's safe? What I lose in terms of performance disabling this two?

Ok I have a question that now have bothered me, 'cause i read this searching on the internet about the real cores, it is possible that my cpu in origin was an i9 but somehow one core doesn't function and they sell it as an i7 instead? 'Cause this may explain a lot of thing even that is not able to run under some minimum voltage and has so very high heat for this model. As "evidence" if you look at my FVIR you will see that there is 7th core currently disabled. I'm obviously asking to you if that is even possible 'cause it will explain a lot of things and why I'm going crazy over this cpu. So is this possible?

 

[(00)]

How to do that? And it's safe? What I lose in terms of performance disabling this two?

Your much more interested in gaming performance and don't mind the extra heat, so just stick with your current setup.

Ok I have a question that now have bothered me, 'cause i read this searching on the internet about the real cores, it is possible that my cpu in origin was an i9 but somehow one core doesn't function and they sell it as an i7 instead? 'Cause this may explain a lot of thing even that is not able to run under some minimum voltage and has so very high heat for this model. As "evidence" if you look at my FVIR you will see that there is 7th core currently disabled. I'm obviously asking to you if that is even possible 'cause it will explain a lot of things and why I'm going crazy over this cpu. So is this possible?

Yes, I too have that hidden core, but UncleWebb has said it's just some kind of residual data. So, don't worry about it.

(00)

 

[AlessioC]

Ok for now 2 days of work and no crush so far. I set Cache and Core to -70.3 and it seems stable, I also limited the max speed of all cores to 3.6 GHz to make it not too hot, I have limited the Prochot to 90° C too, and it seems to work, I'm also getting a new Turbo Cooling Pad, cause I realize that mine, even if it does his work as better as it can, is really not powerful enough to keep up with monstrous heating of this pc. I'm also getting another turbo fan to attach to his left dissipation to further improve the already outstanding capability of the turbo cooling pad (3 fan with 4000-4500 RPM should help to the two already turbo fan inside the pc, mine as the Cooler Boost 5 technology inside), and, in the end, I'm also getting a new thermal paste, to replace the one inside, 'cause I believe that maybe that is another problem. I bought this computer almost an year ago and maybe the thermal paste has dried out, because of the high temperatures it has reach last year, I was not kidding when I said that mine cpu has really bad cooling capacity or overheat too much, it has run for a lot of time around 95°-100° C, even for simple game before I started to use ThrottleStop, and I think that may have consumed the thermal paste, also, if the thermal paste hasn't dried out, maybe they didn't use a high quality paste when assembling it and that maybe another problem, I don't know even if they actually used thermal paste or thermal pad. So I change that too and I will see what happen next.

Thanks for all your help really.

 

[(00)]

Ok. Sounds good.

I wish you luck. 8 )

(00)

 

[AlessioC]

0k so after everything all I finished what I stated in previous post and.... well let me say that the biggest problem was really the paste, absolutely awful paste, and after repasting and the two decent new cooler temperature drop off for 25° C actually even if I stressed it out with a max frequency of 3.8 GHz temps doesn't go over 70-73°C absolutely fantastic, undervolting and repasting work really well my temps are really good now, I'm so happy right now

 

[unclewebb]

@AlessioC - What thermal paste did you use? Keep a close eye on your temperatures for the next week or two to make sure they do not degrade. Your results sound fantastic so far.

 

[AlessioC]

@AlessioC - What thermal paste did you use? Keep a close eye on your temperatures for the next week or two to make sure they do not degrade. Your results sound fantastic so far.

Well I used Noctua NT-H2, and it is working so far really well, I run even a fast CBR23 test and it turn out with a fantastic 7610 score my personal best, absolutely fantastic, also it is undervolted obviously if you want I post all my personal modification.

P.S. Even stressed out on CBR23 max temp was 80°C, before was always almost immediatly, even if undervolted, 95-97°C, really happy so far.

 

[unclewebb]

NT-H1 was horrible long term in laptops but so far I have heard good things about NT-H2. It will be interesting to hear how this new paste formulation holds up for you a month or two from now.

Post any other changes you made if you think it might help other users that stumble upon this thread.

 

[AlessioC]

Ok so all my modification is a mix of bios and throttlestop settings. My computer is an MSI GP66 Leopard 10 UG with an i7 10750H and an RTX 3070 max-p.

So for the values I modified in the BIOS the offset value of the CPU to a stable (at last for me, maybe less or more in your CPU) -80 (you have to change the prefix of the offset value to - or you will obviously overclocking and not undervolting the cpu), obviously you have first to unlock the hidden BIOS (right-shift + right-ctrl+ left-alt + f2 on MSI BIOS) to see option related to the cpu, then I set GT and GTU offset to a value of -50 (the GT and GTU are respectively the Intel GPU and Nvidia GPU), and set the Uncore offset value to a -30. That's all for the bios, I asked the MSI for guidance about this and they told me that is the best way 'cause their laptop answer better to an undervolt if done directly from the BIOS and followed this guy guide

Spoiler: Guide to the MSI BIOS

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=516792153100449

about how to tweak BIOS hope this will eventually help you. It's in Italian (obviously I'm Italian too ;D) so you may quite not understand what he is saying but that is not really needed, if you only follow his steps you will understand everything he does without having to listen to him.
(P.S. If you choose to follow his guide don't search for the ring (CPU cache) offset value 'cause there is none actually, the offset value you modified in the first place (under the processor section) will work for both of them, cache and core).

For the modifications related to throttlestop I used it to modify single core frequency and boost max speed, 'cause is a lot more easier and faster.
I set the core max speed in the FVIR panel this way:

43
42
41
40
39
38

And it so far worked really well cause it has a decent speed of 3.8 GHz that will let you run all the game you want without any problem and without overheating too much. I have enabled the speed shift in main screen of the Throttlestop table and set it to 32.
I have also limited the max speed of the speed shift to 38 in the TPL panel, but this is completely unnecessary, 'cause the limitation I set in the FVIR panel already limited the max speed, when all core are running, to 3.8 (the lowest value of the six will be used for all the cores when all are active and under the turbo), I personally set this to that 'cause even on single core I don't want for now the frequency to go over 3.8, you can leave it as it is if you prefer.

Anyway what I really suggest if you have this laptop is that, with patience and all the time you may need, repaste it absolutely, its factory paste are really awful and actually if you used it a lot, like I do, with its temperature, they will be really likely already dried out, mine was completely dried over the CPU and the GPU, I cleaned it all with patience, all the part with paste, and repaste everything with a far better paste. Two where suggested by the MSI NB STAFF, the Noctua NT-H2 (which listening to the one I spoked to seems to work really well with this laptop) and obviously the immortal Grizzly Kryonaut, this two were suggested to me, but obviously you can choose whatever paste you like most.

 

[AlessioC]

Ok so I need your opinion in one last thing unclewebb, if I limits Long Power PL1 and Short Power PL2 to something like 100 (PL1) 150 (PL2), instead of 200 200, will I eventually gain even more lower temperature?

 

[unclewebb]

It will make zero difference. The 10750H is rarely if ever going to run at 100W.

 

[AlessioC]

A little update, it seems to have work perfectly, so far temps are good, still the same as the first day of application so it's stable (based on what Noctua assistance said to me their thermal paste doesn't start to dried out until it reach 110°C), when playing really demanding game, like Horizon Zero Dawn, it still reach high temperature, but in much more time and overall it is somewhat colder than it was before, max temps are been 91°C, to be fair I must say that all my modification are working really well 'cause I have bought a really powerful base for my laptop that is helping a lot and is making a difference, it costed my a bit but it's really worth it, it is this cooling pad if you want to try KLIM Mistral Laptop Cooling Pad.