Mouse Problems

[TheLostSwede]

No, the cooler can't cause interference.

And I had a brain fart, it's USB 3.0 and Wi-Fi that has interference issues, not USB 2.0

 

[taqq1336]

Well every device has a driver no matter what. It could be provided by the manufacture or it could use the windows driver to operate. That being said did you just restore windows and keep all the files or do a full clean install? I know that the most generic answer is reinstalled windows but you could also try updating the windows mouse driver.

Full clean install, I tried updating the mouse drivers with no results :C

 

[Bill_Bright]

You don't think I would have bigger problems than my mouse if the PSU was bad?

Yes I do. But I note it was you who first suspected this was a power issue. And I believe if your mains power was the problem, it would manifest into other symptoms - like a your computer crashing or rebooting, lights flickering, monitors and TVs flickering, etc.

So I am only saying if it is a power issue, I definitely would look at your PSU first since everything that relies on the PSU's DC output for power, depends on that power being good, clean and stable.

If you note, my very first suggestion was to try a different mouse - which I clarified later by saying a different brand and model mouse. I stand by that.

I also stand by getting a "good" UPS with AVR, but not for this issue. But I will add that every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

not USB 2.0

Any type interface (or circuit) can be susceptible to EMI/RFI. Of course there are all sorts of variables - to include the signal strength of the interference, source, type, etc. Poor grounding to Earth ground can greatly influence EMI/RFI suppression and generation - hence the suggestion to check the wall outlets. Then any physical damage to the connectors, conductors and all parts in between can effect (cause or be susceptible to) interference.

However, to your point, the problem with USB 3.0 and wifi is some USB 3.0 devices were interfering with wireless devices operating in the 2.4GHz band. The OPs mouse is wired so, assuming the mouse, its cable and the computer's USB port are in proper repair, interference should not be the issue here. Especially since the OP said, "using the mouse for surfing on the internet or computing tasks is perfectly fine".

@taqq1336 - what all are we dealing with here? Instead of feeding us piecemeal, please fill out your System Specs.

 

[neatfeatguy]

Went through the OPs posts kind of quick, but didn't see if you tried these things yet:

Have you tried using the mouse on a complete different computer?
- Moving your current mouse to another computer, if the problem follows the mouse then the mouse is the issue - whether it is the mouse itself or how windows interacts with it and the drivers it uses.

Have you tried a completely different mouse on your computer?
-Borrow another mouse from some one or work or buy a cheap mouse you can have just for back up purposes. If you use another mouse on your computer and it gives the same results, then the underlying problem has to do with your system, some how, some way. If the problem goes away, then the issue is with the BenQ Zowie mouse.

When I fought with my Razer Naga 2014 and tracking issues, easiest thing to do was use the mouse on another computer. I took it to work one morning and had no issues with it. I took it back home and had constant tracking issues. Only difference between my work computer and home was I had the Razer Synapse software installed. I uninstalled it and had to even scrub the registry, once everything Synapse related was removed the tracking issue vanished (until about 3 months later...but that's another story).

 

[taqq1336]

Yes I do. But I note it was you who first suspected this was a power issue. And I believe if your mains power was the problem, it would manifest into other symptoms - like a your computer crashing or rebooting, lights flickering, monitors and TVs flickering, etc.

So I am only saying if it is a power issue, I definitely would look at your PSU first since everything that relies on the PSU's DC output for power, depends on that power being good, clean and stable.

If you note, my very first suggestion was to try a different mouse - which I clarified later by saying a different brand and model mouse. I stand by that.

I also stand by getting a "good" UPS with AVR, but not for this issue. But I will add that every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.


Any type interface (or circuit) can be susceptible to EMI/RFI. Of course there are all sorts of variables - to include the signal strength of the interference, source, type, etc. Poor grounding to Earth ground can greatly influence EMI/RFI suppression and generation - hence the suggestion to check the wall outlets. Then any physical damage to the connectors, conductors and all parts in between can effect (cause or be susceptible to) interference.

However, to your point, the problem with USB 3.0 and wifi is some USB 3.0 devices were interfering with wireless devices operating in the 2.4GHz band. The OPs mouse is wired so, assuming the mouse, its cable and the computer's USB port are in proper repair, interference should not be the issue here. Especially since the OP said, "using the mouse for surfing on the internet or computing tasks is perfectly fine".

@taqq1336 - what all are we dealing with here? Instead of feeding us piecemeal, please fill out your System Specs.

I suspected power as the issue because a couple of days ago while turning the lights off I've been slightly electrocuted. It wasn't anything big but I definitely felt it and it happened again when turning it on again. It didn't happen again past the 2 days but I thought this might be a sign for my issue.
Can RGB somehow interfere with other peripherals that have RGB? Would that be something to look into?

System specs:
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 750W Modular Power Supply 80 Plus Gold
CPU: Intel i7-10700k
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3070 Eagle OC
MOBO: MSI MPG Z490 GAMING PLUS
RAM: G.SKILL F4-3200C14D-16GTZR Trident Z RGB Series 16 GB (8 GB x 2) DDR4 3200 MHz
AIO: Cooler Master liquid ML240L RGB
SSD: Crucial BX500 120 GB
HDD: Toshiba P300 1 TB 7200RPM
Monitor: Alienware aw2521hfl

 

[uJamBo]

maybe this will help https://www.esreality.com/post/1846538/markc-windows-mouse-acceleration-fix/

 

[taqq1336]

maybe this will help https://www.esreality.com/post/1846538/markc-windows-mouse-acceleration-fix/

It doesn't feel like this is a mouse accell issue. I know how accell feels, this is totally different. This is much more like dragging my mouse through mud, I will try to upload a video showing this. It's mostly felt when moving the mouse just slightly, lifting the mouse up and down and trying to track. Not responsive as it should be :C

Went through the OPs posts kind of quick, but didn't see if you tried these things yet:

Have you tried using the mouse on a complete different computer?
- Moving your current mouse to another computer, if the problem follows the mouse then the mouse is the issue - whether it is the mouse itself or how windows interacts with it and the drivers it uses.

Have you tried a completely different mouse on your computer?
-Borrow another mouse from some one or work or buy a cheap mouse you can have just for back up purposes. If you use another mouse on your computer and it gives the same results, then the underlying problem has to do with your system, some how, some way. If the problem goes away, then the issue is with the BenQ Zowie mouse.

When I fought with my Razer Naga 2014 and tracking issues, easiest thing to do was use the mouse on another computer. I took it to work one morning and had no issues with it. I took it back home and had constant tracking issues. Only difference between my work computer and home was I had the Razer Synapse software installed. I uninstalled it and had to even scrub the registry, once everything Synapse related was removed the tracking issue vanished (until about 3 months later...but that's another story).

It's definitely not a mouse problem. I had the same old mouse which was still working perfectly and then this problem happened. I thought the same, that it might be the mouse, so I exchanged it for a brand new one and the issue persisted so I started changing parts in my PC. Now it is a brand new PC nothing from the older rig.
I just have the drivers that I need, nothing that would interfere with the mouse. Could a mouse not work well with a particular monitor? I'm using an Alienware aw2521hfl.

 

[uJamBo]

mouse pad needs replacing then go for a black dull looking one any shine can play havok with tracking

 

[taqq1336]

mouse pad needs replacing then go for a black dull looking one any shine can play havok with tracking

It is black, no colours.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I suspected power as the issue because a couple of days ago while turning the lights off I've been slightly electrocuted. It wasn't anything big but I definitely felt it and it happened again when turning it on again.

What lights?

You should never feel any electricity when touching any light switch anywhere! Period!

You definitely need to check your wall outlets to make sure they are properly wired and grounded to Earth ground.

If good, then swap out that PSU.

Also, if possible, the computer and all its peripherals (monitor, speakers, external USB devices, etc.) should be powered through the same wall outlet. This is because no two wall outlets have the exact same path to "Earth" ground. When powered through the same outlet they share a "common" ground and that prevents any "differences in potentials". When there is a difference in potential great enough, you can feel this voltage as an electrical current. Not good. This can often result in inference issues, "noise" in the audio, video noise (like "snow" or lines in the display - though that would typically be seen only in analog signals, not digital). In extreme cases, that voltage can result in injury to the person if they, for example, have a bad heart. If a small child or an adult with a pacemaker comes into contact with that voltage, even more tragic results - as in death!!! - may occur.

If two separate wall outlets are the only option, I recommend running a single grounding strap or wire in a loop, connecting the metal chassis of each component together. Start at one of the 4 mounting screws for the PSU on the back of the computer case. This establishes a common ground. Simple 22AWG "hook-up" wire works just fine for this purpose.

 

[taqq1336]

What lights?

You should never feel any electricity when touching any light switch anywhere! Period!

You definitely need to check your wall outlets to make sure they are properly wired and grounded to Earth ground.

If good, then swap out that PSU.

Also, if possible, the computer and all its peripherals (monitor, speakers, external USB devices, etc.) should be powered through the same wall outlet. This is because no two wall outlets have the exact same path to "Earth" ground. When powered through the same outlet they share a "common" ground and that prevents any "differences in potentials". When there is a difference in potential great enough, you can feel this voltage as an electrical current. Not good. This can often result in inference issues, "noise" in the audio, video noise (like "snow" or lines in the display - though that would typically be seen only in analog signals, not digital). In extreme cases, that voltage can result in injury to the person if they, for example, have a bad heart. If a small child or an adult with a pacemaker comes into contact with that voltage, even more tragic results - as in death!!! - may occur.

If two separate wall outlets are the only option, I recommend running a single grounding strap or wire in a loop, connecting the metal chassis of each component together. Start at one of the 4 mounting screws for the PSU on the back of the computer case. This establishes a common ground. Simple 22AWG "hook-up" wire works just fine for this purpose.

My room lights. This happened when I turned them off and back on. But didn't happen since then. I will check the outlets.
I have the PC and monitor connected to 1 extension lead, then the speakers and router into another one. I used to have it all in one, but I thought it might be an outlet causing this issue so I bought an extension lead to connect the PC and monitor into another outlet hoping it would resolve the issue, but no.

 

[oldwalltree]

My room lights. This happened when I turned them off and back on. But didn't happen since then. I will check the outlets.
I have the PC and monitor connected to 1 extension lead, then the speakers and router into another one. I used to have it all in one, but I thought it might be an outlet causing this issue so I bought an extension lead to connect the PC and monitor into another outlet hoping it would resolve the issue, but no.

100% check the outlet too because you can wire a switch and light with an outlet and it is common in older homes. Also a lot of outlets are probably on the same breaker. If you don't know what your doing call someone because you should not be getting shocked!!!!

 

[Bill_Bright]

I have the PC and monitor connected to 1 extension lead, then the speakers and router into another one.

To be sure, Ethernet and speaker cables "should" all have a ground lead (or shield) in them too. But to be effective, the cables and connectors (including jacks in the computer) must be in good repair to establish that "common" ground. And of course, if you connect to your router through wifi, that would not matter.

 

[taqq1336]

I just ordered https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VFRQ733/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to test my wall outlets. This is really confusing, some days are better than others. Some days the mouse is so unresponsive, unplayable others it's much better but no 100%.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Well this is a bitter sweet deal now. That's the same tester I have (except mine is for US outlets) and it works great.

Hopefully, it will show all your outlets are properly wired. But then you will still have your mouse problems and be no closer to finding a solution. And if it finds a problem with your outlet and/or wiring, you will have discovered an unsafe, potentially costly-to-fix condition that requires immediate repair before someone gets hurt - or worse.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[taqq1336]

Well this is a bitter sweet deal now. That's the same tester I have (except mine is for US outlets) and it works great.

Hopefully, it will show all your outlets are properly wired. But then you will still have your mouse problems and be no closer to finding a solution. And if it finds a problem with your outlet and/or wiring, you will have discovered an unsafe, potentially costly-to-fix condition that requires immediate repair before someone gets hurt - or worse.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I will keep you posted, thank you for your help

 

[Night]

I'd try a different mouse, even the cheapest one. If the issue persists, my bet is on Windows. Try re-installing the mouse drivers first or re-adding it in Windows.

 

[taqq1336]

I'd try a different mouse, even the cheapest one. If the issue persists, my bet is on Windows. Try re-installing the mouse drivers first or re-adding it in Windows.

I already reinstalled windows 3 times, reinstalled the mouse drivers don't know how many times.

 

[Night]

Were they clean installs? Have you considered malware? Also by re-adding I meant removing the device in Device Manager and letting Windows add it again.

Edit: Could also be a glitch with the mouse drivers, I would remove them and try. Mouse/Keyboard drivers are getting too many frequent updates right now.

 

[Bill_Bright]

@Night - it would be good for everyone when you join a thread late in the game that you go back to the beginning to see what has already been done and suggested - multiple times.

 

[taqq1336]

Were they clean installs? Have you considered malware? Also by re-adding I meant removing the device in Device Manager and letting Windows add it again.

Edit: Could also be a glitch with the mouse drivers, I would remove them and try. Mouse/Keyboard drivers are getting too many frequent updates right now.

All clean installs, so a malware would have been deleted. I've also removed the device in device manager and added it again multiple times, not just the drivers.

 

[taqq1336]

Well this is a bitter sweet deal now. That's the same tester I have (except mine is for US outlets) and it works great.

Hopefully, it will show all your outlets are properly wired. But then you will still have your mouse problems and be no closer to finding a solution. And if it finds a problem with your outlet and/or wiring, you will have discovered an unsafe, potentially costly-to-fix condition that requires immediate repair before someone gets hurt - or worse.

Good luck and keep us posted.

So I just received the wall socket tester. It appears as everything is correct, but doing the RCD test the wall socket does not trip off.

 

[X71200]

Does it need to trip off? I'm not overly familiar with those devices.

Anyway, not sure what you meant by "updating mouse drivers", Zowie mice are plug and play, no drivers there.

I hate Zowie because you can't get above some 2000-2500 DPI, I had to toy with Windows acceleration from registry to make it to faster with my ultrawide monitor. They come carrying sensors capable of more, yet they cap you around 2000 DPI. Screw it and buy yourself a proper, perforated grill design mouse. That's what I did and haven't looked back. Also, turn G-Sync on and cap it to 144 or whatever. You're not getting any noticeable gains at all from making your PC work to 500 FPS. Just more heat dissipation.

 

[Bill_Bright]

but doing the RCD test the wall socket does not trip off.

If the outlet is a standard outlet, it will not trip the breaker. If an RCD (residual current device in the UK) or an GFI (ground fault interrupter in the US) outlet, such as would be found in bathrooms and kitchens (near water) then the breaker should trip with that test.

So the fact the outlets test good is great. Don't consider spending money on that tester was a waste of money. Just knowing your outlets were wired correct, are properly grounded to Earth ground, and are still in good repair is worth the price. Be sure to take that tester with you next time you visit your parents or grandparents home, etc.

Still not happy you felt a bit of a shock when flipping the light switch. That is not right and should be looked in to.

At this point, still think you should try a totally different mouse.

That said, you said this is essentially a totally different computer too.

I started changing parts in my PC. Now it is a brand new PC nothing from the older rig.

Nothing at all? Not even the same power supply?

 

[X71200]

I fail to understand how much effort is put to this keeping Zowie thing... seriously, go buy some asian mouse with software for a whooping $20, it's gonna be light years ahead of that Zowie EC. You'll feel it when you realize how lightweight honeycomb designs get. You changed PCs, replaced every component and all that for bot of a mouse.