socket 7 system not posting

[Black Flag]

Greetings to everyone.

Recently I found on the basement, my baby at case with a socket 7 motherboard. It's been stored since 2004.

The system can't post even checking with Pentium MMx 233 MHz and AMD K6-2 450 MHz. Last time the system worked had the K6 installed.

Dimm is fine because it works with my celeron system and it is a PC100. The GPUs are the Voodoo 3 and the S3 Trio 3D/2X both for AGP slot.

The motherboard is the Shuttle HOT-591P.

All the chipsets are getting hot, so I think there's no issue about faulty hardware, the cpu cooler is connected to psu with molex connector. I've played with the jumpers and the system clock with no luck, previously the system was set up for the K6-2.

When the system switched on the system beeps continuously and sometimes it takes time for the first beep to heard, like it may post.

Any ideas?

 

[Black Flag]

I don't understand your quote.

 

[blobster21]

The system can't post even checking with Pentium MMx 233 MHz and AMD K6-2 450 MHz

It's either a board designed for AMD cpus or an Intel cpus. You can't use a pentium if a K6 used to work on it before.

 

[TheLostSwede]

How about reading the manual? http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/manuals/Shuttle/Shuttle - HOT-591P.pdf

That said, continuous beeps tend to mean some core component is faulty. Have a look here as to what it might mean http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm (the board has an Award BIOS btw). Judging by that, it's either a RAM or a CPU problem.

Check that there's no crudd in the RAM slots etc. that's causing a problem and that nothing has oxidised so it doesn't get a good connection.

 

[TheLostSwede]

It's either a board designed for AMD cpus or an Intel cpus. You can't use a pentium if a K6 used to work on it before.

Uhm, that's obviously not true for Socket-7, which in this case works with Intel, AMD, Cyrix and IDT processors...

 

[Derek12]

It's either a board designed for AMD cpus or an Intel cpus. You can't use a pentium if a K6 used to work on it before.

That socket was universal

 

[Black Flag]

Thank you everyone for the replies.

Back on the 1990s those motherboards (386, 486, pentium) and the chipsets were compatible with both AMD, Intel and also with Cyrix and the IDT (Winchip) CPUs.

I will use clear alcohol to all the slots and sockets.

I checked the manual and the jumper settings are correct. Also the jumper settings are printed on the pcb!

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Have you dry tested the set up outside of the case? The motherboard could be earthed. If not then the board is probably dead

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

my guess is there is corrosion and/or dirt. Unplug all connections including ram and gpu and cpu and anything else, get a can of air and blow out all sockets and replug power connectors several times to re-establish a decent connection. Examine ram, use a clean and dry kitchen/dish sponge (the scrubber side) and lightly clean the contacts, then insert ram into the sockets several times (same process for other blade type connections). For the CPU use a dry (hard)toothbrush.

All this to ensure you have good contact and connections to everything.

Edit, try the dry method first, if you do use alcohol use a hairdrier without heat to help make the alcohol evaporate faster.

 

[Derek12]

I would clear CMOS and replace CMOS battery
Also check for vented or swollen capacitors

 

[Black Flag]

The capacitors and the board seems ok. I think if the board was dead, the board will not giving the beep code errors and the chipsets would not be heating up.

I don't remember, on those old motherboards to clear the cmos must do it by removing the battery only, or by using the jumper settings that clears the cmos?

 

[Derek12]

The capacitors and the board seems ok. I think if the board was dead, the board will not giving the beep code errors and the chipsets would not be heating up.

I don't remember, on those old motherboards to clear the cmos must do it by removing the battery only, or by using the jumper settings that clears the cmos?

You can remove the battery for a minute or so and if you have a DMM, check its voltage. Maybe you have to replace it too.

Anyway, chips getting hot is not a reliable sign of the board working properly, but beeps are almost always a good sign.

Did you try another PSU? random failures like this can be a sign of faulty PSU

 

[qubit]

The fact the chips get hot means nothing, it can still be faulty in any of a million ways that will stop it posting.

Also, a faulty board, can still be functional enough to beep that there's a fault.

I think it's a dead board.

Grats on digging it out though. Brought back memories, especially of the PCI Voodoo 3 which I still have and still works. I bought the thing brand new and I still have the box, with both in mint condition.

 

[SnakeDoctor]

Beeping normally indicates faulty ram,not picking up the ram chip

But for standing for so long the capacitors could be dried up

 

[Black Flag]

Not posting after some efforts and cleaning of the board.

I also used the psu from the celeron and his Virge DX.

I don't know if the processors are having issues. Who knows. I didn't store them appropriate, I've just had them to my bookshelf for decoration.

The good thing is that I have an AT case for my 386DX-40 or 486DX2-66 upcoming project...

Thank you everyone.

 

[X828]

Sounds like a bad ram module.... Have any others? Also.. you may have static smoked the cpu's by not storing them properly.

 

[Bill_Bright]

All the chipsets are getting hot, so I think there's no issue about faulty hardware,

"Hot"? Chipsets should not get "hot". Warm, yes. Not hot. That's why they typically have heatsinks attached, and often their own tiny fans too.

I don't remember, on those old motherboards to clear the cmos must do it by removing the battery only, or by using the jumper settings that clears the cmos?

Same difference. One of the unique and primary characteristics of complementary metal–oxide–semiconductors (CMOS) is they almost instantly (like within 1 or 2 clock cycles) dump any stored data when the voltage on the "holding" pin of the CMOS memory device is removed. Obviously, removing the battery removes the voltage. Shorting the two reset pins does the same thing by dumping ("shunting") that voltage to ground bypassing the CMOS's holding pin.

Contrary to what some may believe or have heard, there are no storage capacitors in that circuit that need extra time to bleed off. So just a few seconds is more than enough. Remember, motherboard engineers and designers intended user changes to the BIOS Setup (which are stored in the CMOS memory module) to be easily reset. If they wanted them to be hard to reset and more "robust", they would have used less expensive EEPROM or similar devices.

Have you inspected everything for mold, spider and other critter nest, or rodent damage? These are all things that can happen to electronics that have been stored in basements - places that tend to be dark and damp.